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Long crocheted socks Novita Venla

Long crocheted socks Novita Venla

As low as €1.90

These intricate socks, crocheted with Novita Venla yarn, feature a beautiful leaf motif on the front.
Magazine Novita Kevät 2017 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 36
Skill level Expert
Long crocheted socks Novita Venla
€6.90
Novita crochet hook 15 cm -3.0 mm
€2.10
Novita Finishing Needle 2 pcs
€1.90

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Long crocheted socks Novita Venla
Long crocheted socks Novita Venla

In stock

€1.90

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N011736
    Pattern details
    Size
    One size

    Yarn demand
    Novita Venla
    (010) Off-white 150 g

    Needles and other supplies
    Crochet hook:
    Novita 3 mm or the size needed to obtain gauge.

    Designer
    Minna Metsänen

    Details

    Twist the yarn once round your finger and crochet into the loop:

    1st row: Work 6 double crochets (dc). Keep working in rounds in the spiral way, i.e. move straight from one row to the next. Always mark the beginning of the round with a stitch marker.

    2nd row: Work 2 dc into every st = 12 dc.

    3rd row: *work 1 dc, 2 dc into the same st*, repeat from * to * for 5 more times = 18 dc.

    4th row: *work 2 dc, 2 dc into the same st*, repeat from * to * 5 more times = 24 dc.

    5th row: work *3 dc, 2 dc into the same st*, repeat from * to * for 5 more times = 30 dc.

    6th row: work *4 dc, 2 dc into the same st*, repeat from * to * 5 more times = 36 dc.

    7th row: work *5 dc, 2 dc into the same st*, repeat from * to * 5 more times = 42 dc.

    8th row: work 1 row of double crochet and at the same time increase 1 st = 43 dc. Make 1 slip st (sl st) into the next st.

    Begin following the chart I from row 1, the starting point is marked with an arrow: work the 23 st pattern repeat, 20 treble crochets (tr) and then join the round by making a slip st into the 3rd chain from the beginning. Keep crocheting following the chart, beginning from row 2, and then keep repeating rows 2-8 for the pattern and make treble crochets on all other stitches. Each time you reach row 8, work the double crochets into the center stitch (marked with red in the chart) of the arch of chain stitches from the previous row.

    When you have followed the crochet pattern for 8 rows, increase 1 tr on the next row on both sides of the motif on the front of the sock. Make 2 treble crochets into the first and the last treble on the group of trebles. Repeat the increases in this manner on every 2nd row 2 more times.

    When you have worked in the crochet pattern for 17 rows, on the next row make the opening for the heel following row 4 of chart II. Note the changes in the outermost groups of trebles. After the motif, loosely crochet 26 chain sts and join the chain with 1 sl st into the 3rd chain from the beginning of row. Continue crocheting from row 5 of chart II. Above the heel opening, crochet following the crochet pattern on the right side of chart II.

    When you have crocheted 8 rows after the heel opening, begin making the gusset increases for the center back. The increases are marked with red in the chart. You must begin the gusset on the row marked red in the left chart so that the pineapple motif on the front and back of the sock will be the same. Keep working the other stitches as before. For the gusset, work rows 9-12 first, after which there are 2 ch sts between the gusset and the groups of treble crochets as established. Crochet rows 13-18 and then repeat rows 19-25 two more times.

    Now begin working groups of treble crochets also for the pineapple motifs, see row 26 (marked with blue). Crochet 5 rows in this manner. Try the sock on and if necessary decrease some of the chain sts between the groups of treble crochets, so that the sock will fit properly.

    The heel: Join the yarn with 1 dc into one end of the heel opening. Make 26 dc into both sides of the opening (1 dc into each st) and finish by making 3 dc around the trebles at the ends of the opening = 58 dc. For the decreases, mark 1 st on both sides of the heel so that 28 dc remain between the marked sts. Keep crocheting in a spiral and decrease 1 st on both sides of the marked sts on each round: *crochet until 2 sts remain before the marked st, crochet 2 together, crochet the marked st and then crochet 2 sts together*, repeat from * to * until only a small hole remains. Break the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts. Pull tightly to close the hole and weave in the yarn end.

    Crochet the second sock to match.

    Finishing

    Steam the finished socks lightly.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    38/39

    Stitch patterns & gauge
    - Crochet pattern:
    Crochet according to chart and written instructions

    Gauge:
    - 24 treble crochets = 10 cm.
    - For the finished sock to be stretchy enough, the crocheted fabric can be somewhat loose.

    Note:
    The sock is crocheted from the toe up and the heel is crocheted last.

    Twist the yarn once round your finger and crochet into the loop:

    1st row: Work 6 double crochets (dc). Keep working in rounds in the spiral way, i.e. move straight from one row to the next. Always mark the beginning of the round with a stitch marker.

    2nd row: Work 2 dc into every st = 12 dc.

    3rd row: *work 1 dc, 2 dc into the same st*, repeat from * to * for 5 more times = 18 dc.

    4th row: *work 2 dc, 2 dc into the same st*, repeat from * to * 5 more times = 24 dc.

    5th row: work *3 dc, 2 dc into the same st*, repeat from * to * for 5 more times = 30 dc.

    6th row: work *4 dc, 2 dc into the same st*, repeat from * to * 5 more times = 36 dc.

    7th row: work *5 dc, 2 dc into the same st*, repeat from * to * 5 more times = 42 dc.

    8th row: work 1 row of double crochet and at the same time increase 1 st = 43 dc. Make 1 slip st (sl st) into the next st.

    Begin following the chart I from row 1, the starting point is marked with an arrow: work the 23 st pattern repeat, 20 treble crochets (tr) and then join the round by making a slip st into the 3rd chain from the beginning. Keep crocheting following the chart, beginning from row 2, and then keep repeating rows 2-8 for the pattern and make treble crochets on all other stitches. Each time you reach row 8, work the double crochets into the center stitch (marked with red in the chart) of the arch of chain stitches from the previous row.

    When you have followed the crochet pattern for 8 rows, increase 1 tr on the next row on both sides of the motif on the front of the sock. Make 2 treble crochets into the first and the last treble on the group of trebles. Repeat the increases in this manner on every 2nd row 2 more times.

    When you have worked in the crochet pattern for 17 rows, on the next row make the opening for the heel following row 4 of chart II. Note the changes in the outermost groups of trebles. After the motif, loosely crochet 26 chain sts and join the chain with 1 sl st into the 3rd chain from the beginning of row. Continue crocheting from row 5 of chart II. Above the heel opening, crochet following the crochet pattern on the right side of chart II.

    When you have crocheted 8 rows after the heel opening, begin making the gusset increases for the center back. The increases are marked with red in the chart. You must begin the gusset on the row marked red in the left chart so that the pineapple motif on the front and back of the sock will be the same. Keep working the other stitches as before. For the gusset, work rows 9-12 first, after which there are 2 ch sts between the gusset and the groups of treble crochets as established. Crochet rows 13-18 and then repeat rows 19-25 two more times.

    Now begin working groups of treble crochets also for the pineapple motifs, see row 26 (marked with blue). Crochet 5 rows in this manner. Try the sock on and if necessary decrease some of the chain sts between the groups of treble crochets, so that the sock will fit properly.

    The heel: Join the yarn with 1 dc into one end of the heel opening. Make 26 dc into both sides of the opening (1 dc into each st) and finish by making 3 dc around the trebles at the ends of the opening = 58 dc. For the decreases, mark 1 st on both sides of the heel so that 28 dc remain between the marked sts. Keep crocheting in a spiral and decrease 1 st on both sides of the marked sts on each round: *crochet until 2 sts remain before the marked st, crochet 2 together, crochet the marked st and then crochet 2 sts together*, repeat from * to * until only a small hole remains. Break the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts. Pull tightly to close the hole and weave in the yarn end.

    Crochet the second sock to match.

    Finishing

    Steam the finished socks lightly.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

    With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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