My Cart

Mini Cart

Lempi sweater Novita Hygge Wool

Lempi sweater Novita Hygge Wool

As low as €1.90

Looking for that chunky, cosy go-to sweater? Sari Nordlund’s Lempi just might be it, a perfect beginner project from chunky Hygge Wool yarn. Seamless design with raglan sweater, sleeves above wrist height and a high turtleneck.
Magazine Novita Kevät 2020 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 23
Skill level Beginner

* Required Fields

Your Customization
Lempi sweater Novita Hygge Wool
Lempi sweater Novita Hygge Wool

In stock

€1.90

- +
Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N012023
    Pattern details
    Size
    XS(S)M(L)XL(XXL)

    Yarn demand
    Novita Hygge Wool
    (075) Fog 750(800)850(900)1000(1100) g

    Needles and other supplies
    Circular needle (80 cm / 32 in) and
    double-pointed needles Novita 8 mm (UK 0 / US 11) and 10 mm (UK 000 / US 15);
    circular needle (60 cm / 24 in) Novita 10 mm

    Designer
    Sari Nordlund

    Details

    Body

    Using the 8 mm circular needle (80 cm) cast on 88(94)100(108)114(122) stitches, place 1st stitch marker for beginning of round. Work ribbing in the round, alternating knit 1 and purl 1.

    After 5 cm, switch to the 10 mm circular needle (80 cm). Work stockinette st in the round (knit all stitches on all rounds) and place 2nd marker (side marker) at the midpoint of the round, with 44(47)50(54)57(61) sts each on the front and back pieces.

    When the piece measures 28(30)30(31)34(36) cm, on the next round work to last 1(2)2(2)3(4) sts before 2nd marker, then bind off next 2(4)4(4)6(8) sts for an armhole and remove the marker.

    Bind off as follows: knit 2 sts onto the right-hand needle, then pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one. 1 stitch bound off. If you’re binding off more stitches, knit 1 more st onto the right-hand needle, then pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one. Repeat as needed.

    On the same round work to last 1(2)2(2)3(4) sts before 1st marker (beginning of round), bind off the last 1(2)2(2)3(4) sts for the other armhole, remove marker, bind off the first 1(2)2(2)3(4) sts of the next round. 42(43)46(50)51(53) sts each on the front and back pieces. Break the yarn and leave the stitches on hold.

    Sleeves

    Using the 8 mm double-pointed needles cast on 32(34)36(36)38(40) stitches, place marker for beginning of round. Work ribbing in the round.

    After 5 cm, switch to the 10 mm double-pointed needles. Knit 1 round. On sizes L, XL and XXL increase 1 st at the beginning and midpoint of the round (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop). 2 sts increased, 32(34)36(38)40(42) sts now on the needles.

    Work stockinette stitch in the round: knit all stitches on all rows.

    When the piece measures 28(29)30(30)31(32) cm, on the next round work to last 1(2)2(2)3(3) sts, bind off the last 1(2)2(2)3(3) sts for the armhole, remove marker and bind off the first 1(2)2(2)3(3) sts of the next round.

    Break the yarn and leave the 30(30)32(34)34(36) sleeve stitches on hold on e.g. a piece of yarn.

    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner but do not break the yarn.

    Top

    Move the previous 30(30)32(34)34(36) sleeve sts onto the 10 mm circular needle (80 cm). Place marker for beginning of round (1st raglan seam at the right back shoulder) and work stockinette st. Knit the 42(43)46(50)51(53) back sts. Place marker (2nd raglan seam, left back shoulder) and knit the other 30(30)32(34)34(36) sleeve sts onto the circular needle. Place marker (3rd raglan seam, left front shoulder) and knit the 42(43)46(50)51(53) front sts. Place marker (4th raglan seam, right front shoulder) and knit the 30(30)32(34)34(36) sleeve sts. 144(146)156(168)170(178) sts on the needles.

    With all sts work 2 rounds in stockinette st. Keep working stockinette st in the round and begin raglan decreases:

    Round 1 (decrease round): *Work the skp decrease (= slip 1 st knitwise, knit 1, pass the slipped st over the knit st). Work to last 3 sts before next marker, knit 2 sts together, knit 1*, repeat *–* 3 more times. 8 sts decreased, 136(138)148(160)162(170) sts on the needles. 40(41)44(48)49(51) sts each on the front and back pieces and 28(28)30(32)32(34) sts on the sleeves.

    Round 2: knit all sts.

    Repeat rounds 1–2 11(11)13(14)14(15) more times.

    Note: Switch to the shorter circular needle and then to the double-pointed needles when you need to.

    48(50)44(48)50(50) sts now on the needles. 18(19)18(20)21(21) sts front and back, 6(6)4(4)4(4) sts on the sleeves.

    Knit 1 round removing markers and evenly decreasing 4(6)0(2)2(2)x1 st by k2tog (don’t decrease at the raglan seams). 44(44)44(46)48(48) sts on the needles.

    Switch to the smaller double-pointed needles. With all sts work ribbing in the round until the collar measures 12 cm.

    Loosely bind off in pattern.

    Finishing

    Sew the underarm seams using a tapestry needle. Securely weave in.

    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry, or steam lightly.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    body circumference 96(104)112(120)128(136) cm / 37¾(41)44(47¼)50½(53½) in middle back length 48(50)52(54)57(60) cm / 19(19¾)20½(21¼)22½(23½) in inner sleeve length 28(29)30(30)31(32) cm / 11(11½)11¾(11¾)12¼(12½) in

    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns
    - Ribbing in the round: *knit 1, purl 1*, keep repeating *–*.
    - Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all stitches on all rows.

    Gauge
    9 sts and 13 rows in stockinette st with larger needles = 10 cm / 4 in

    Note
    The sweater is knitted bottom-up in once piece, with short underarm seams.

    TUTORIALS
    https://www.novitaknits.com/fi/fi/novitan-neulekoulu-aloittelijoille
    VIDEO TUTORIALS
    TECHNIQUE: CASTING ON
    TECHNIQUE: RIBBING
    TECHNIQUE: SSK AND SKP DECREASES
    TECHNIQUE: K2TOG DECREASE
    TECHNIQUE: FINISHING AND WEAVING IN



    Body

    Using the 8 mm circular needle (80 cm) cast on 88(94)100(108)114(122) stitches, place 1st stitch marker for beginning of round. Work ribbing in the round, alternating knit 1 and purl 1.

    After 5 cm, switch to the 10 mm circular needle (80 cm). Work stockinette st in the round (knit all stitches on all rounds) and place 2nd marker (side marker) at the midpoint of the round, with 44(47)50(54)57(61) sts each on the front and back pieces.

    When the piece measures 28(30)30(31)34(36) cm, on the next round work to last 1(2)2(2)3(4) sts before 2nd marker, then bind off next 2(4)4(4)6(8) sts for an armhole and remove the marker.

    Bind off as follows: knit 2 sts onto the right-hand needle, then pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one. 1 stitch bound off. If you’re binding off more stitches, knit 1 more st onto the right-hand needle, then pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one. Repeat as needed.

    On the same round work to last 1(2)2(2)3(4) sts before 1st marker (beginning of round), bind off the last 1(2)2(2)3(4) sts for the other armhole, remove marker, bind off the first 1(2)2(2)3(4) sts of the next round. 42(43)46(50)51(53) sts each on the front and back pieces. Break the yarn and leave the stitches on hold.

    Sleeves

    Using the 8 mm double-pointed needles cast on 32(34)36(36)38(40) stitches, place marker for beginning of round. Work ribbing in the round.

    After 5 cm, switch to the 10 mm double-pointed needles. Knit 1 round. On sizes L, XL and XXL increase 1 st at the beginning and midpoint of the round (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop). 2 sts increased, 32(34)36(38)40(42) sts now on the needles.

    Work stockinette stitch in the round: knit all stitches on all rows.

    When the piece measures 28(29)30(30)31(32) cm, on the next round work to last 1(2)2(2)3(3) sts, bind off the last 1(2)2(2)3(3) sts for the armhole, remove marker and bind off the first 1(2)2(2)3(3) sts of the next round.

    Break the yarn and leave the 30(30)32(34)34(36) sleeve stitches on hold on e.g. a piece of yarn.

    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner but do not break the yarn.

    Top

    Move the previous 30(30)32(34)34(36) sleeve sts onto the 10 mm circular needle (80 cm). Place marker for beginning of round (1st raglan seam at the right back shoulder) and work stockinette st. Knit the 42(43)46(50)51(53) back sts. Place marker (2nd raglan seam, left back shoulder) and knit the other 30(30)32(34)34(36) sleeve sts onto the circular needle. Place marker (3rd raglan seam, left front shoulder) and knit the 42(43)46(50)51(53) front sts. Place marker (4th raglan seam, right front shoulder) and knit the 30(30)32(34)34(36) sleeve sts. 144(146)156(168)170(178) sts on the needles.

    With all sts work 2 rounds in stockinette st. Keep working stockinette st in the round and begin raglan decreases:

    Round 1 (decrease round): *Work the skp decrease (= slip 1 st knitwise, knit 1, pass the slipped st over the knit st). Work to last 3 sts before next marker, knit 2 sts together, knit 1*, repeat *–* 3 more times. 8 sts decreased, 136(138)148(160)162(170) sts on the needles. 40(41)44(48)49(51) sts each on the front and back pieces and 28(28)30(32)32(34) sts on the sleeves.

    Round 2: knit all sts.

    Repeat rounds 1–2 11(11)13(14)14(15) more times.

    Note: Switch to the shorter circular needle and then to the double-pointed needles when you need to.

    48(50)44(48)50(50) sts now on the needles. 18(19)18(20)21(21) sts front and back, 6(6)4(4)4(4) sts on the sleeves.

    Knit 1 round removing markers and evenly decreasing 4(6)0(2)2(2)x1 st by k2tog (don’t decrease at the raglan seams). 44(44)44(46)48(48) sts on the needles.

    Switch to the smaller double-pointed needles. With all sts work ribbing in the round until the collar measures 12 cm.

    Loosely bind off in pattern.

    Finishing

    Sew the underarm seams using a tapestry needle. Securely weave in.

    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry, or steam lightly.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

    With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

    Reviews

    Write Your Own Review

    Only registered users can write reviews. Please Sign in or create an account