Lemon top Novita Baby Wool

As low as €6.96

Top is knitted in one piece, after ribbed hem, to underarms. A Lemon is embroidered to finnished top.
Novita Kesä 2020 -lehti (in Finnish)
35
Intermediate
Customize Lemon top Novita Baby Wool

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    €6.96

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    Availability: In stock

    N022035
    Size
    XS(S)M(L)XL(XXL)

    Yarn demand
    Novita Baby Wool
    (011) White 200(200)250(300)350(400) g
    for embroidering some Novita Muumitalo (229) Miffle, (381) Snufkin and (099) Stinky
     


    Needles and other supplies
    Circular needles (60/80 cm / 24/32 in) Novita 3½ mm (US 4) and 4 mm (UK 8 / US 6) or sizes needed;
    a 3½ mm circular needle (40 cm / 16 in) for the neckline


    Designer
    Sari Nordlund

    Back hem
     
    Using the smaller needles cast on 81(89)97(105)113(121) sts and work ribbing for 8 cm. Leave the sts on hold.
     
     
    Front hem
     
    Using the smaller needles cast on 81(89)97(105)113(121) sts and work ribbing for 4 cm. Switch to the larger needles. RS: knit to last st. Place the back sts onto the needles and knit the last front st together with the first back st. Place side marker, knit to last st. Knit the last st together with the first front st. Place marker for beginning of round. 160(176)192(208)224(240) sts on the needles, 80(88)96(104)112(120) sts each on the front and back pieces.
     
     
    Body
     
    The front and back are knitted in one piece up to the armholes. Work stockinette st in the round.
     
    After 4(4)5(5)6(6) cm, decrease 2 sts at both sides: *k1, k2tog, work stockinette st to last 3 sts before marker, skp, k1*, repeat *-* once more. 4 sts decreased, 156(172)188(204)220(236) sts on the needles. Repeat the decreases every 5 cm 3 more times. 144(160)176(192)208(224) sts on the needles, 72(80)88(96)104(112) sts each on the front and back pieces.
     
    When the stockinette st section measures 25(26)27(28)31(33) cm, distribute the sts into two groups: on the next round work to last 4(5)6(7)8(9) sts before marker, bind off next 8(10)12(14)16(18) sts for armhole, removing marker. Work to last 4(5)6(7)8(9) sts before marker, bind off last 4(5)6(7)8(9) sts, remove marker, bind off first 4(5)6(7)8(9) sts of next round.  64(70)76(82)88(94) sts each on the front and back pieces. Leave the front sts on hold.
     
     
    Top back
     
    Work stockinette st flat with the 64(70)76(82)88(94) back sts and decrease 1 st at both ends: (RS) k1, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Repeat the decreases every other row 2(3)4(5)6(7) more times = 58(62)66(70)74(78) sts.
     
    When the armhole measures 15(16)17(18)18(19) cm, leave the middle 30(30)30(32)32(32) sts on hold for the neckline. Work the right side first. Decrease 1 st at the neckline edge: (RS) work to last 3 sts before neckline, k2tog, k1. Repeat the decrease on every other row 2 more times.
     
    When the armhole measures 17(18)19(20)20(21) cm, bind off the remaining 11(13)15(16)18(20) shoulder sts.
     
    Work the other side in the same manner. Decrease using skp (= slip 1, k1, pass slipped st over).
     
     
    Front
     
    Work like back until the armhole measures 7(8)9(10)10(11) cm. Place the middle 22(22)22(24)24(24) front sts on hold for the neckline. Work the right side first. Decrease 1 st at the neckline edge: (RS) work to last 3 sts before neckline, k2tog, k1. Repeat the decrease on every other row 4 more times and then 2 times on every 4th row.
     
    When the armhole measures 17(18)19(20)20(21) cm, bind off the remaining 11(13)15(16)18(20) shoulder sts.
     
    Work the other side in the same manner. Decrease using skp (= slip 1, k1, pass slipped st over).
     
    Finishing
     
    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.
     
    Sew the shoulder seams.
     
    Neckline: Using the circular needle pick up and knit the sts you left on hold as well as additional sts from the neckline for 116(116)116(120)120(120) sts in total. Work ribbing in the round for 5 rounds. Bind off in pattern.
     
    Armhole border: Using the smaller circular needle pick up and knit a total of 84(88)90(96)100(106) sts from along the armhole, 42(44)45(48)50(53) sts from both pieces. Work 3 rounds in garter st and bind off. Sew the border seam.
     
    Knit the other armhole border in the same manner.
     
    Embroider the lemon pattern on the garment, approx. 18 cm from the left shoulder and 3(3)4(4)5(5) cm from the front midpoint. Use duplicate sts and follow the chart.
     
     
    Finished dimensions
    body circumference 72(80)88(96)104(112) cm / 28¼(31½)34¾(37¾)41(44) in
    hem circumference 80(88)96(104)112(120) cm / 31½(34¾)37¾(41)44(47¼) in
    front length 46(48)50(52)55(58) cm / 18(19)19¾(20½)21¾(22¾) in
    back length 50(52)54(56)59(62) cm / 19¾(20½)21¼(22)23¼(24½) in
     


    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns
    -Ribbing: Row 1: (WS) *p1, k1*, repeat *-* until 1 st remains, p1. Row 2: (RS) *k1, p1*, repeat *-* until 1 st remains, k1. Keep repeating rows 1-2.
    -Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all rows.
    -Stockinette stitch: knit the right side rows and purl the wrong side rows.
    -Ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*

    Back hem
     
    Using the smaller needles cast on 81(89)97(105)113(121) sts and work ribbing for 8 cm. Leave the sts on hold.
     
     
    Front hem
     
    Using the smaller needles cast on 81(89)97(105)113(121) sts and work ribbing for 4 cm. Switch to the larger needles. RS: knit to last st. Place the back sts onto the needles and knit the last front st together with the first back st. Place side marker, knit to last st. Knit the last st together with the first front st. Place marker for beginning of round. 160(176)192(208)224(240) sts on the needles, 80(88)96(104)112(120) sts each on the front and back pieces.
     
     
    Body
     
    The front and back are knitted in one piece up to the armholes. Work stockinette st in the round.
     
    After 4(4)5(5)6(6) cm, decrease 2 sts at both sides: *k1, k2tog, work stockinette st to last 3 sts before marker, skp, k1*, repeat *-* once more. 4 sts decreased, 156(172)188(204)220(236) sts on the needles. Repeat the decreases every 5 cm 3 more times. 144(160)176(192)208(224) sts on the needles, 72(80)88(96)104(112) sts each on the front and back pieces.
     
    When the stockinette st section measures 25(26)27(28)31(33) cm, distribute the sts into two groups: on the next round work to last 4(5)6(7)8(9) sts before marker, bind off next 8(10)12(14)16(18) sts for armhole, removing marker. Work to last 4(5)6(7)8(9) sts before marker, bind off last 4(5)6(7)8(9) sts, remove marker, bind off first 4(5)6(7)8(9) sts of next round.  64(70)76(82)88(94) sts each on the front and back pieces. Leave the front sts on hold.
     
     
    Top back
     
    Work stockinette st flat with the 64(70)76(82)88(94) back sts and decrease 1 st at both ends: (RS) k1, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Repeat the decreases every other row 2(3)4(5)6(7) more times = 58(62)66(70)74(78) sts.
     
    When the armhole measures 15(16)17(18)18(19) cm, leave the middle 30(30)30(32)32(32) sts on hold for the neckline. Work the right side first. Decrease 1 st at the neckline edge: (RS) work to last 3 sts before neckline, k2tog, k1. Repeat the decrease on every other row 2 more times.
     
    When the armhole measures 17(18)19(20)20(21) cm, bind off the remaining 11(13)15(16)18(20) shoulder sts.
     
    Work the other side in the same manner. Decrease using skp (= slip 1, k1, pass slipped st over).
     
     
    Front
     
    Work like back until the armhole measures 7(8)9(10)10(11) cm. Place the middle 22(22)22(24)24(24) front sts on hold for the neckline. Work the right side first. Decrease 1 st at the neckline edge: (RS) work to last 3 sts before neckline, k2tog, k1. Repeat the decrease on every other row 4 more times and then 2 times on every 4th row.
     
    When the armhole measures 17(18)19(20)20(21) cm, bind off the remaining 11(13)15(16)18(20) shoulder sts.
     
    Work the other side in the same manner. Decrease using skp (= slip 1, k1, pass slipped st over).
     
    Finishing
     
    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.
     
    Sew the shoulder seams.
     
    Neckline: Using the circular needle pick up and knit the sts you left on hold as well as additional sts from the neckline for 116(116)116(120)120(120) sts in total. Work ribbing in the round for 5 rounds. Bind off in pattern.
     
    Armhole border: Using the smaller circular needle pick up and knit a total of 84(88)90(96)100(106) sts from along the armhole, 42(44)45(48)50(53) sts from both pieces. Work 3 rounds in garter st and bind off. Sew the border seam.
     
    Knit the other armhole border in the same manner.
     
    Embroider the lemon pattern on the garment, approx. 18 cm from the left shoulder and 3(3)4(4)5(5) cm from the front midpoint. Use duplicate sts and follow the chart.
     
     

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

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