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Lemon cardigan Novita Muumitalo

Lemon cardigan Novita Muumitalo

As low as €1.90

The Lemon Cardigan is worked flat from the top down in one piece with raglan increases while short rows are worked to shape the neckline. The sleeves are then picked up and worked flat using intarsia to add the lemon patches.
Magazine Novita Kesä 2020 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 32
Skill level Intermediate
Lemon cardigan Novita Muumitalo
€7.50
€7.50
€7.50
€7.50
€7.50
€7.50
€7.50
€7.50
€7.50
€7.50
€7.50
€7.50
€7.50
€7.50
€7.50
€7.50
Novita knitting pins 35 cm-3.0 mm
€3.00
Novita Finishing Needle 2 pcs
€1.90

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Lemon cardigan Novita Muumitalo
Lemon cardigan Novita Muumitalo

In stock

€1.90

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N022032
    Pattern details
    Size
    0-6 kk (6-12 kk) 1-2 v (2-3 v)

    Yarn demand
    Novita Muumitalo (100g/225m)
    Yarn A: 1 (1, 2, 2) x 100g Snorkmaiden (507)
    Yarn B: Small quantity of Miffle (229)
    Yarn C: Small quantity of Moomintroll (007)
    Yarn D: Small quantity of Snufkin (381)
     


    Needles and other supplies
    Needles
    3.25mm (UK 10, US 3) suitable for working flat and for working small circumferences in the round.
    4mm (UK 8, US 6) suitable for working flat and for working small circumferences in the round.
     
    Notions
    5 buttons
    Tapestry needle
    Measuring tape
    Scissors


    Designer
    Amy Philip

    Details
    Using Yarn A, cast on 62 (66, 70, 74) on smaller needles (3.25mm) using long tail method. Work back and forth in 1 x 1 rib for 5 (5, 5, 5) rows, ending with a RS row
     
    Change to larger needles (4mm) and continue by working back and forth in stocking stitch.
     
    Set up row (WS): mark the raglan sts as follows;
     
    p 11 (11, 11, 12)  for left front, PM, p 9 (10, 11, 11) for left sleeve, PM, p 21 (23, 25, 27) for back, PM, p 9 (10, 11, 11) for right sleeve, PM, p 12 (12, 12, 13) for right front.
     
    The neckline is worked using short rows while also working raglan increases on the RS rows as follows. We recommend using the German Short Row Method for the short rows.
     
    Short Row 1 (RS): [k to marker, M1R, SM, k1, M1L] four times. knit to last 9 sts, turn work. 8 sts increased, 70 (74, 78, 82) sts.
     
    Short Row 2 (WS): p to last 9 sts. turn work.
     
    Short Row 3 (RS): [k to marker, M1R, SM, k1, M1L] four times. k till 7 remain. Turn work. 8 sts increased, 78 (82, 86, 90) sts
     
    Short Row 4 (WS): p to last 7 sts. turn work
     
    Short Row 5 (RS): [k to marker, M1R, SM, k1, M1L] four times. k till 5 remain. Turn work. 8 sts increased 86, (90, 94, 98) sts.
     
    Short Rows 6 (WS): p to last 5 sts. Turn work
     
    Short Row 7 (RS): [k to marker, M1R, SM, k1, M1L] four times. k till last 3 sts. Turn Work. 8 sts increased 94 (98, 102, 106)
     
    Short Row 8 (WS): p till last 3 sts. Turn Work.
     
    Row 9 (RS): [k to marker, M1R SM, k1, M1L] four times. k to end. 8 sts increased 102 (106, 110, 114)
     
    Row 10: (WS) purl, slipping markers as you go.
     
    Repeat Rows 9 and 10 a further 8 (10, 14, 14) times till 166 (186, 222, 226) sts on needle.
     
     
    Divide Body and Sleeves as follows:
     
    K to marker, remove marker, k1, place next 34 (39, 48, 48) sts on holder for left sleeve, remove marker, CO 4 sts using backward loop method, k to marker, remove marker, k1, place next 34 (39, 48, 48) sts on holder for right sleeve, remove marker, CO 4 sts using backward loop method, k to end. 106 (116, 134, 138) sts remain for body.
     
     
    Continue Body
     
    Work back and forth in stocking stitch until the work measures 8.5 (10.5, 12.5, 13.5) / 21.5 (26.5, 31.5, 34) cm from centre back.
     
    Change to the smaller needles (3.25mm) and work 5 (5, 5, 5) rows in rib. Cast off all sts in rib.
     
     
    Sleeves (make 2)
     
    The sleeves are worked flat, going back and forth in stocking stitch. Mirrored decreases are worked to shape the sleeves, while at the same time, the lemon patch is placed and worked in intarsia following the chart. You will be doing two things at once; counting when to work the decrease rows and counting when to place the lemon patch, so we recommend having a notebook handy so can keep a tally to help remember where you are.
     
    With RS facing, using the larger needed (4mm) and starting in the centre of the 4 cast on sts at underarms, pick up and knit 2 cast on sts, knit across 34 (39, 48, 48) sleeve sts, pick up and knit the 2 remaining cast on sts at underarms. 38 (43, 52, 52) sts on needle
     
    Next Row (WS): p
     
    In this next section the sleeve is shaped with mirrored decreases as outlined below while adding the lemon patch. Place the lemon in the centre of the sleeve on Row 6 (8, 9, 14) (counted from where you picked up the previously held sleeve sts).
     
    Next Row: Decrease Row (RS): k2, k2tog, k to last 4, ssk, k2. 2 sts decreased, 36 (41, 50, 50) sts remain.
     
    Repeat this decrease row on 2 (3, 6, 6) following 6th (6th, 4th, 4th) rows till 32 (35, 38, 38) sts remain.
     
    Continue straight in stocking stitch till sleeve measures 5 (5.5, 7, 8.5)” / 12.5 (14, 17.5, 21.5) cm from underarm.
     
    Change to the smaller needles (3.25mm) and work 5 rows in rib. Cast off all sts in rib.
     
     
    Button band (right front)
     
    With RS facing and using the smaller needles (3.25mm) and Yarn A, pick up and k 52 (62, 72, 78) sts evenly across the Right Front edge. Work 5 rows in 1 x 1 rib. Cast off all sts in rib.
     
     
    Buttonhole band (left front)
     
    With RS facing and using the smaller needles (3.25mm) and Yarn A, pick up and k 52 (62, 72, 78) sts evenly across the Left Front edge. Work 2 rows in 1 x 1 rib.
     
    Row 3 Buttonhole Row: k2 (2, 2, 2) sts, yo, k2tog [k 10 (12, 15, 16) sts, yo, k2tog] three times, k 8 (12, 13, 16 ) k2tog, yo, k 2 (2, 2, 2).
     
    Work 2 rows in 1 x 1 rib.
     
    Cast off all sts in rib.
     
     
    Finishing
     
    Add the details to the lemon using duplicate stitch following the chart. Seam together sleeves using mattress stitch.
     
    Sew five buttons in place on button band opposite the buttonholes. Weave in all the ends and block to measurements.
    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    Chest Circumference 18/45.5 (20/51) 22/56 (23/58.5) Inch/cm
    Cardigan Circumference 20/51 (22/56) 25/64 (26/66) Inch/cm
    Cardigan length  9.5/24 (11.5/29) 13.5/34 (14.5/37) Inch/cm
    Sleeve length (from underarm) 6/15 (6.5/16.5) 8/20.5 (9.5/24) Inch/cm
    Wrist circumference 6/15 (6.5/16.5) 6.75/17 (6.75/17) Inch/cm
     


    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns:
    - Ribbing: *k1, p1*, repeat *–*. On the wrong side rows, knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts.
    - Stockinette st: knit the right side rows and purl the wrong side rows.
    - Ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*, repeat *–*.
    - Intarsia: all different-coloured fields are knitted with their own ball of yarn. Twist the different strands around each other on the WS to prevent holes at the colour changes.
     
    Tension
    22 stitches and 28 rows in 4” / 10cm over stocking stitch on 4mm needles.
     
    Note
    The cardigan is worked top-down in one piece, with raglan sleeves. The neckline is shaped with short rows.  The sleeves are worked flat and the lemon patches in intarsia. The button bands are worked last.
     


    Using Yarn A, cast on 62 (66, 70, 74) on smaller needles (3.25mm) using long tail method. Work back and forth in 1 x 1 rib for 5 (5, 5, 5) rows, ending with a RS row
     
    Change to larger needles (4mm) and continue by working back and forth in stocking stitch.
     
    Set up row (WS): mark the raglan sts as follows;
     
    p 11 (11, 11, 12)  for left front, PM, p 9 (10, 11, 11) for left sleeve, PM, p 21 (23, 25, 27) for back, PM, p 9 (10, 11, 11) for right sleeve, PM, p 12 (12, 12, 13) for right front.
     
    The neckline is worked using short rows while also working raglan increases on the RS rows as follows. We recommend using the German Short Row Method for the short rows.
     
    Short Row 1 (RS): [k to marker, M1R, SM, k1, M1L] four times. knit to last 9 sts, turn work. 8 sts increased, 70 (74, 78, 82) sts.
     
    Short Row 2 (WS): p to last 9 sts. turn work.
     
    Short Row 3 (RS): [k to marker, M1R, SM, k1, M1L] four times. k till 7 remain. Turn work. 8 sts increased, 78 (82, 86, 90) sts
     
    Short Row 4 (WS): p to last 7 sts. turn work
     
    Short Row 5 (RS): [k to marker, M1R, SM, k1, M1L] four times. k till 5 remain. Turn work. 8 sts increased 86, (90, 94, 98) sts.
     
    Short Rows 6 (WS): p to last 5 sts. Turn work
     
    Short Row 7 (RS): [k to marker, M1R, SM, k1, M1L] four times. k till last 3 sts. Turn Work. 8 sts increased 94 (98, 102, 106)
     
    Short Row 8 (WS): p till last 3 sts. Turn Work.
     
    Row 9 (RS): [k to marker, M1R SM, k1, M1L] four times. k to end. 8 sts increased 102 (106, 110, 114)
     
    Row 10: (WS) purl, slipping markers as you go.
     
    Repeat Rows 9 and 10 a further 8 (10, 14, 14) times till 166 (186, 222, 226) sts on needle.
     
     
    Divide Body and Sleeves as follows:
     
    K to marker, remove marker, k1, place next 34 (39, 48, 48) sts on holder for left sleeve, remove marker, CO 4 sts using backward loop method, k to marker, remove marker, k1, place next 34 (39, 48, 48) sts on holder for right sleeve, remove marker, CO 4 sts using backward loop method, k to end. 106 (116, 134, 138) sts remain for body.
     
     
    Continue Body
     
    Work back and forth in stocking stitch until the work measures 8.5 (10.5, 12.5, 13.5) / 21.5 (26.5, 31.5, 34) cm from centre back.
     
    Change to the smaller needles (3.25mm) and work 5 (5, 5, 5) rows in rib. Cast off all sts in rib.
     
     
    Sleeves (make 2)
     
    The sleeves are worked flat, going back and forth in stocking stitch. Mirrored decreases are worked to shape the sleeves, while at the same time, the lemon patch is placed and worked in intarsia following the chart. You will be doing two things at once; counting when to work the decrease rows and counting when to place the lemon patch, so we recommend having a notebook handy so can keep a tally to help remember where you are.
     
    With RS facing, using the larger needed (4mm) and starting in the centre of the 4 cast on sts at underarms, pick up and knit 2 cast on sts, knit across 34 (39, 48, 48) sleeve sts, pick up and knit the 2 remaining cast on sts at underarms. 38 (43, 52, 52) sts on needle
     
    Next Row (WS): p
     
    In this next section the sleeve is shaped with mirrored decreases as outlined below while adding the lemon patch. Place the lemon in the centre of the sleeve on Row 6 (8, 9, 14) (counted from where you picked up the previously held sleeve sts).
     
    Next Row: Decrease Row (RS): k2, k2tog, k to last 4, ssk, k2. 2 sts decreased, 36 (41, 50, 50) sts remain.
     
    Repeat this decrease row on 2 (3, 6, 6) following 6th (6th, 4th, 4th) rows till 32 (35, 38, 38) sts remain.
     
    Continue straight in stocking stitch till sleeve measures 5 (5.5, 7, 8.5)” / 12.5 (14, 17.5, 21.5) cm from underarm.
     
    Change to the smaller needles (3.25mm) and work 5 rows in rib. Cast off all sts in rib.
     
     
    Button band (right front)
     
    With RS facing and using the smaller needles (3.25mm) and Yarn A, pick up and k 52 (62, 72, 78) sts evenly across the Right Front edge. Work 5 rows in 1 x 1 rib. Cast off all sts in rib.
     
     
    Buttonhole band (left front)
     
    With RS facing and using the smaller needles (3.25mm) and Yarn A, pick up and k 52 (62, 72, 78) sts evenly across the Left Front edge. Work 2 rows in 1 x 1 rib.
     
    Row 3 Buttonhole Row: k2 (2, 2, 2) sts, yo, k2tog [k 10 (12, 15, 16) sts, yo, k2tog] three times, k 8 (12, 13, 16 ) k2tog, yo, k 2 (2, 2, 2).
     
    Work 2 rows in 1 x 1 rib.
     
    Cast off all sts in rib.
     
     
    Finishing
     
    Add the details to the lemon using duplicate stitch following the chart. Seam together sleeves using mattress stitch.
     
    Sew five buttons in place on button band opposite the buttonholes. Weave in all the ends and block to measurements.

    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Here you find size guides for your knitting projects!




     
     




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