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Laine ankle socks Novita Louhetar Sukkalanka

As low as €1.90

This socks are knitted from Novita Louhetar sock yarn, with cotton as well as wool in it. Perfect for soft summer socks. The socks also feature a provisional cast on, giving them a distinct edge.
Magazine Novita Kevät 2020 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 29
Skill level Intermediate
Laine ankle socks Novita Louhetar Sukkalanka
Novita double-pointed needles 20 cm-2.0 mm
€3.30
Novita double-pointed needles 20 cm-2.5 mm
€3.30
Novita finishing needles
€1.90

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Laine ankle socks Novita Louhetar Sukkalanka
Laine ankle socks Novita Louhetar Sukkalanka

In stock

€1.90

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N012029
    Pattern details
    Size
    one size

    Yarn demand
    Novita Louhetar Sukkalanka
    (812) Spring 100 g
    and some scrap yarn

    Needles and other supplies
    Double-pointed needles
    Novita 2-2½ mm (UK 13-14 / US 0-1½) and 2½-3 mm (UK 11-12 / US 1½-2½);
    Novita 3½ mm (UK 9 / US E-4) crochet hook for the provisional cast-on

    Designer
    Sari Nordlund

    Details

    Leg

    Provisional cast-on: chain 66 using the scrap yarn. Break yarn and pull it through the last st. Using the smaller needles and beginning at the 6th st in the chain, pick up 1 st per ch and knit it using the Spring yarn until there are 54 sts on the needles. Divide the sts onto four needles. Now work stockinette stitch in the round for 5 rounds.

    Fold round: on the next round *k2tog, yarn over, k1*, repeat *-* to end of round. Work 5 rounds in stockinette st. Switch to the larger needles.

    Unravel the crochet chain and place the released sts onto the smaller needles. Make sure you pick up each released st = 54 sts. Fold the piece once so that the cast-on edge is on the inside and the larger needles are on the outside.

    Knit the sts on the smaller and larger needles together: knit the 1st sts of both needles together using the larger needle. Work the 2nd pair of sts in the same manner. Continue until all pairs of sts have been knitted together. 54 sts on the needles.

    Work stockinette st with all needles, evenly increasing 2 sts on the first round = 56 sts, 14 sts per needle.

    Work stockinette st until the leg measures 10 cm from the fold round.

    Begin heel flap: knit the sts on needle I onto needle IV = 28 sts. Leave the other sts on hold and turn work. Slip 1, p27, turn work.

    Reinforced stitch pattern:

    Row 1: (RS) *slip 1 with yarn in back, k1*, repeat *-* to end. Turn work.

    Row 2: (WS) slip 1 with yarn in back, purl to end. Turn work.

    Work rows 1-2 a total of 14 times (= 28 rows).

    Begin French heel turn:

    Row 1 (RS): slip 1, k15, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), k1. Turn work.

    Row 2 (WS): slip 1, p5, p2tog, p1. Turn work.

    Row 3: slip 1, knit to last st before gap, skp, k1. Turn work.

    Row 4: slip 1, purl to last st before gap, p2tog, p1. Turn work.

    Continue in this manner until all sts have been worked. Redistribute the remaining sts onto two needles.

    Using a free needle pick up 14 sts from the left end of the heel flap + 1 st from between the flap and needle II. Using the left-hand sole needle knit the heel flap sts and knit the picked-up sts through the back loop. On needles II and III work stockinette st as established. Using the right-hand sole needle pick up 14 sts from the right end + 1 st from between needle III and the heel flap. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop and knit the heel flap sts.

    Work stockinette st in the round and begin gusset decreases: at the end of needle I, k2tog; at the beginning of needle IV, skp. Repeat the decreases every other round until 14 sts remain on needles I and IV = 56 sts.

    Work stockinette st until the foot measures approx. 19 cm or until the sock covers the fifth toe.

    Begin toe decreases: at the end of needles I and III, k2tog, k1; at the beginning of needles II and IV, k1, skp. Repeat the decreases on every other round 7 more times. 6 sts on each needle. Redistribute the sts onto two needles, 12 sts each on instep and sole. Graft the sts together.

    Knit the other sock in the same manner.

    Finishing

    Securely weave in all ends.

    Lightly steam the socks.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    Shoe size 38/39 (EUR)

    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns
    - Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all rows.

    Gauge
    25 sts in stockinette st with 2½-3 mm needles = 10 cm / 4 in

    Note:
    If you don't wish to make a provisional cast-on, cast on 54 sts, work 5 rounds in stockinette st and then make the fold round. Then work stockinette st down to the heel. Sew the cast-on edge to the inside of the sock.


    Leg

    Provisional cast-on: chain 66 using the scrap yarn. Break yarn and pull it through the last st. Using the smaller needles and beginning at the 6th st in the chain, pick up 1 st per ch and knit it using the Spring yarn until there are 54 sts on the needles. Divide the sts onto four needles. Now work stockinette stitch in the round for 5 rounds.

    Fold round: on the next round *k2tog, yarn over, k1*, repeat *-* to end of round. Work 5 rounds in stockinette st. Switch to the larger needles.

    Unravel the crochet chain and place the released sts onto the smaller needles. Make sure you pick up each released st = 54 sts. Fold the piece once so that the cast-on edge is on the inside and the larger needles are on the outside.

    Knit the sts on the smaller and larger needles together: knit the 1st sts of both needles together using the larger needle. Work the 2nd pair of sts in the same manner. Continue until all pairs of sts have been knitted together. 54 sts on the needles.

    Work stockinette st with all needles, evenly increasing 2 sts on the first round = 56 sts, 14 sts per needle.

    Work stockinette st until the leg measures 10 cm from the fold round.

    Begin heel flap: knit the sts on needle I onto needle IV = 28 sts. Leave the other sts on hold and turn work. Slip 1, p27, turn work.

    Reinforced stitch pattern:

    Row 1: (RS) *slip 1 with yarn in back, k1*, repeat *-* to end. Turn work.

    Row 2: (WS) slip 1 with yarn in back, purl to end. Turn work.

    Work rows 1-2 a total of 14 times (= 28 rows).

    Begin French heel turn:

    Row 1 (RS): slip 1, k15, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), k1. Turn work.

    Row 2 (WS): slip 1, p5, p2tog, p1. Turn work.

    Row 3: slip 1, knit to last st before gap, skp, k1. Turn work.

    Row 4: slip 1, purl to last st before gap, p2tog, p1. Turn work.

    Continue in this manner until all sts have been worked. Redistribute the remaining sts onto two needles.

    Using a free needle pick up 14 sts from the left end of the heel flap + 1 st from between the flap and needle II. Using the left-hand sole needle knit the heel flap sts and knit the picked-up sts through the back loop. On needles II and III work stockinette st as established. Using the right-hand sole needle pick up 14 sts from the right end + 1 st from between needle III and the heel flap. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop and knit the heel flap sts.

    Work stockinette st in the round and begin gusset decreases: at the end of needle I, k2tog; at the beginning of needle IV, skp. Repeat the decreases every other round until 14 sts remain on needles I and IV = 56 sts.

    Work stockinette st until the foot measures approx. 19 cm or until the sock covers the fifth toe.

    Begin toe decreases: at the end of needles I and III, k2tog, k1; at the beginning of needles II and IV, k1, skp. Repeat the decreases on every other round 7 more times. 6 sts on each needle. Redistribute the sts onto two needles, 12 sts each on instep and sole. Graft the sts together.

    Knit the other sock in the same manner.

    Finishing

    Securely weave in all ends.

    Lightly steam the socks.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

    With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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