Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
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Using the off-white yarn, cast on 42(42)48(48) sts and distribute them onto four double-pointed needles. The beginning of the round is between needles I and IV. Purl 1 round.
Using the Freesia or Aubergine yarn, knit a stripe of flowers following the instructions.
Using the off-white, knit 1 round and decrease 2 sts (sizes 30 and 32) or increase 2 sts (sizes 36 and 38) = 40(40)50(50) sts.
Begin the lace pattern from row 1 of chart I. Work the 5 st pattern repeat 8(8)10(10) times. Repeat rows 1-4 a total of 5(5)9(9) times. After the last cable turn, knit the yarn overs through the back loop. Using the off-white, knit 2 more rounds and increase 2 sts (sizes 30 and 32) or decrease 2 sts (sizes 36 and 38) = 42(42)48(48) sts.
Knit another stripe of flowers as before using the Aubergine or Freesia yarn.
Using the off-white yarn, knit 1 round. Sizes 30 and 32: evenly decrease 2 sts. 40(40)48(48) sts on the needles. Redistribute the sts evenly, 10(10)12(12) sts per needle.
Begin the heel flap: move the sts on needle I onto needle IV = 20(20)24(24) sts. Begin the lace pattern on the heel flap on row 1 of chart I. Working flat, knit the heel flap: k1(1)3(3), work the 5 st pattern repeat 3 times, work the first 3 sts of the pattern repeat again (the lace cable), k1(1)3(3). Work rows 1-4 a total of 5(5)6(6) times, then work rows 5-6 = 22(22)26(26) rows.
Begin the French heel:
Row 1: k12(12)14(14) (half the heel flap sts + 2 sts), knit the next 2 sts together through the back loop, k1. Turn work.
Row 2: slip 1 st, p5, p2tog, p1. Turn work.
Row 3: slip 1 st, k6, k2tog tbl, k1. Turn work.
Row 4: slip 1 st, p7, p2tog, p1. Turn work.
Continue in this manner until the decreases reach the edges on both sides of the work. Distribute the remaining sts onto two needles, 6(6)7(7) sts each.
Using a free needle, pick up 11(11)13(13) sts from the left edge of the heel flap + 1 st from between the heel flap and needle II. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop using left-hand sole needle.
Begin the lace pattern on needles II and III: k1 at the beginning of needle II, work 5 st pattern repeat from chart II, k4(4)6(6). K4(4)6(6) at the beginning of needle III, work the 5 st pattern repeat from chart II, k1.
Using the right-hand sole needle, pick up 11(11)13(13) sts from the right edge of the heel flap + 1 st from between needle III and the heel flap. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop and knit the heel flap sts. Continue working stockinette st on needles I and IV and stockinette st and the lace pattern on the instep. Keep repeating rows 1-4 of the chart.
Continue working these 56(56)66(66) sts and work the gusset decreases: k2tog at the end of needle I, work the skp decrease at the beginning of needle IV (= slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped st over). Repeat the decreases on every 2nd round until 10(10)12(12) sts remain on each needle.
Continue as established until the sole measures 15(17)18(19) cm or until the sock covers your fifth toe.
Then begin the toe decreases, continuing the lace pattern as established.
At the end of needle I, k2tog, k1. Work 6 sts from the beginning of needle II, skp, knit to end of needle. Knit the sts on needle III until 8 sts remain, k2tog, follow the lace pattern to end of needle. At the beginning of needle IV, k1, skp. Repeat the decreases on every 2nd round 2(2)4(4) more times.
Continue decreasing as established on needles I and IV. Work the skp decrease at the beginning of needle II and k2tog at the end of needle III. Keep working the lace pattern as long as possible. Work the decreases as before on every 2nd round until 5(5)6(6) sts remain on each needle. Then work the decreases on every round. When 8 sts remain, break the yarn, pass it through the sts and pull tightly. Securely weave in.
Knit the other sock to match.
Steam the finished socks.
Pass the satin ribbons through the flower stripes and tie them into bows in the front.
Using the off-white yarn, cast on 42(42)48(48) sts and distribute them onto four double-pointed needles. The beginning of the round is between needles I and IV. Purl 1 round.
Using the Freesia or Aubergine yarn, knit a stripe of flowers following the instructions.
Using the off-white, knit 1 round and decrease 2 sts (sizes 30 and 32) or increase 2 sts (sizes 36 and 38) = 40(40)50(50) sts.
Begin the lace pattern from row 1 of chart I. Work the 5 st pattern repeat 8(8)10(10) times. Repeat rows 1-4 a total of 5(5)9(9) times. After the last cable turn, knit the yarn overs through the back loop. Using the off-white, knit 2 more rounds and increase 2 sts (sizes 30 and 32) or decrease 2 sts (sizes 36 and 38) = 42(42)48(48) sts.
Knit another stripe of flowers as before using the Aubergine or Freesia yarn.
Using the off-white yarn, knit 1 round. Sizes 30 and 32: evenly decrease 2 sts. 40(40)48(48) sts on the needles. Redistribute the sts evenly, 10(10)12(12) sts per needle.
Begin the heel flap: move the sts on needle I onto needle IV = 20(20)24(24) sts. Begin the lace pattern on the heel flap on row 1 of chart I. Working flat, knit the heel flap: k1(1)3(3), work the 5 st pattern repeat 3 times, work the first 3 sts of the pattern repeat again (the lace cable), k1(1)3(3). Work rows 1-4 a total of 5(5)6(6) times, then work rows 5-6 = 22(22)26(26) rows.
Begin the French heel:
Row 1: k12(12)14(14) (half the heel flap sts + 2 sts), knit the next 2 sts together through the back loop, k1. Turn work.
Row 2: slip 1 st, p5, p2tog, p1. Turn work.
Row 3: slip 1 st, k6, k2tog tbl, k1. Turn work.
Row 4: slip 1 st, p7, p2tog, p1. Turn work.
Continue in this manner until the decreases reach the edges on both sides of the work. Distribute the remaining sts onto two needles, 6(6)7(7) sts each.
Using a free needle, pick up 11(11)13(13) sts from the left edge of the heel flap + 1 st from between the heel flap and needle II. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop using left-hand sole needle.
Begin the lace pattern on needles II and III: k1 at the beginning of needle II, work 5 st pattern repeat from chart II, k4(4)6(6). K4(4)6(6) at the beginning of needle III, work the 5 st pattern repeat from chart II, k1.
Using the right-hand sole needle, pick up 11(11)13(13) sts from the right edge of the heel flap + 1 st from between needle III and the heel flap. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop and knit the heel flap sts. Continue working stockinette st on needles I and IV and stockinette st and the lace pattern on the instep. Keep repeating rows 1-4 of the chart.
Continue working these 56(56)66(66) sts and work the gusset decreases: k2tog at the end of needle I, work the skp decrease at the beginning of needle IV (= slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped st over). Repeat the decreases on every 2nd round until 10(10)12(12) sts remain on each needle.
Continue as established until the sole measures 15(17)18(19) cm or until the sock covers your fifth toe.
Then begin the toe decreases, continuing the lace pattern as established.
At the end of needle I, k2tog, k1. Work 6 sts from the beginning of needle II, skp, knit to end of needle. Knit the sts on needle III until 8 sts remain, k2tog, follow the lace pattern to end of needle. At the beginning of needle IV, k1, skp. Repeat the decreases on every 2nd round 2(2)4(4) more times.
Continue decreasing as established on needles I and IV. Work the skp decrease at the beginning of needle II and k2tog at the end of needle III. Keep working the lace pattern as long as possible. Work the decreases as before on every 2nd round until 5(5)6(6) sts remain on each needle. Then work the decreases on every round. When 8 sts remain, break the yarn, pass it through the sts and pull tightly. Securely weave in.
Knit the other sock to match.
Steam the finished socks.
Pass the satin ribbons through the flower stripes and tie them into bows in the front.
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.