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Lace Shawl Novita Venla

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This beautiful and delicate lace shawl, knitted from Novita Venla, is like a work of art.
Magazine Novita Talvi 2016 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 51
Skill level Expert
- +

 

Availability:In stock
SKU N041651
Pattern details
Size
One size

Yarn demand
Novita Venla
Off White 300 g

Needles and other supplies
Needles Novita 3.5 – 4.0 or the size to give you the correct tension

Designer
Ulla Riihimäki

Details

Cast on 5 sts and purl 1 row.

Next row: K1, kfb, k1, kfb, k1 = 7 sts (2 sts increased).

Start following the Lace chart I at row 1:

Row 1 (RS): K2, yo, k1, yo, k1 (centre st), yo, k1, yo, k2 = 11 sts.

Row 2: K2, p3, k1 (centre st), p3, k2 = 11 sts.

Row 3: K2, yo, k3, yo, k1 (centre st), yo, k3, yo, k2 = 15 sts.

Row 4: K2, p5, k1 (centre st), p5, k2 = 15 sts.

Keep following Chart I and work rows 5–24. Four stitches are increased on each RS row (1 st at side edges and 1 st at each side of the centre stitch). You have now 55 sts on the needle and one lace pattern repeat on each side of the centre stitch.

Work rows 25–38. You have now 83 sts on the needle and two lace pattern repeats on each side of the centre stitch.

Work rows 39–52. You have now 111 sts on the needle and three lace pattern repeats on each side of the centre stitch.

Keep working in the same way so that 28 sts is increased and one more lace pattern repeat worked on each side of the centre stitch over 14 rows.

After you have worked a total of 122 rows and there are 8 lace pattern repeats on each side of the centre stitch, you have 251 sts on the needle. Continue in the following way:

Row 123: K2, yo, k to centre st, yo, k1 (centre st), yo, k to last 2 sts, yo, k2.

Row 124: K2, p to centre st, k1 (centre st), p to last 2 ts, k2.

Rows 125–126: Repeat rows 123–124 once = 259 sts.

Start following Chart I at row 127:

Row 127 (RS): Following the chart from right to left, work the first 12 sts (11 st + 1 st), repeat the 14 st pattern repeat for 8 times, work 7 sts (6 st + 1 st) before the centre st, k1 (centre st), work 7 sts after the centre st (6 st + 1 st), repeat the 14 st pattern repeat for 8 times, work last 12 sts (11 st + 1 st) = 263 sts.

Work rows 128–142. You have now 291 sts on the needle.

Rows 143–146: Repeat rows 123–126 = 299 sts.

Start following Chart II at row 147:

Row 147 (RS): Following the chart from right to left, work the first 7 sts (6 st + 1 st), repeat the 10 st pattern repeat for 14 times, work 4 sts before the centre st (3 st + 1 st), k1 (centre st), work 5 sts after the centre st (4 st + 1 st), repeat the 10 st pattern repeat for 14 times, work last 6 sts (5 st + 1 st) = 303 sts.

Work rows 148–200. You have now 407 sts on the needle.

Row 201: K2, yo, k to centre st, yo, k1 (centre st), yo, k to last 2 sts, yo, k2 = 411 sts.

After finishing row 201, cast on 26 sts with the working yarn. Turn work.

Next row (WS): P26. Turn work.

Start following the border lace pattern at row 1 of Chart III and work one pattern repeat (26 + 1 st). Turn work.

Row 2 (WS): Work to 1 st before end, p2tog (the last st of the border lace and the first st of the body).

Work rows 3–26 and after that keep repeating rows 1–28. Work p2tog at the end of every 4th row (WS; the last st of the border lace and the first st of the body). One body st will be decreased on every 4th row = every other WS row.

Note When you have decreased altogether 11 body sts, start decreasing on every 2nd row (work p2tog at the end of each WS row). One body st will now be decreased on every WS row.

After you have decreased altogether 191 body sts (11 x 1 st on every 4th row and 180 x 1 st on every 2nd row), decrease 29 x 1 body st on every 4th row, 180 x 1 body st on every 2nd row and 11 x body 1 st on every 4th row. The border lace rows 1–28 are repeated 16½ times on each side of the centre stitch = there will be 33 pattern repeats in total.

When you have completed decreasing the body sts and you have just worked row 28, cast off all sts.

Finishing

Lay the shawl to measurements on a flat surface with the WS facing, wet with a spray bottle and let dry.

Pattern instructions
Finished dimensions
Ca. 190 cm across top edge, ca. 100 cm from top edge to bottom at centre

Stitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns
Lace stitch pattern
Follow the chart and written instructions

Garter stitch
All rows: K to end.

Tension
18 sts over lace stitch pattern = 10 cm

Note
This triangular shawl is worked starting from the neck at the centre of the top edge. All increases are worked on a RS row at side edges and at each side of the centre stitch (4 sts increased on each increase row).

Cast on 5 sts and purl 1 row.

Next row: K1, kfb, k1, kfb, k1 = 7 sts (2 sts increased).

Start following the Lace chart I at row 1:

Row 1 (RS): K2, yo, k1, yo, k1 (centre st), yo, k1, yo, k2 = 11 sts.

Row 2: K2, p3, k1 (centre st), p3, k2 = 11 sts.

Row 3: K2, yo, k3, yo, k1 (centre st), yo, k3, yo, k2 = 15 sts.

Row 4: K2, p5, k1 (centre st), p5, k2 = 15 sts.

Keep following Chart I and work rows 5–24. Four stitches are increased on each RS row (1 st at side edges and 1 st at each side of the centre stitch). You have now 55 sts on the needle and one lace pattern repeat on each side of the centre stitch.

Work rows 25–38. You have now 83 sts on the needle and two lace pattern repeats on each side of the centre stitch.

Work rows 39–52. You have now 111 sts on the needle and three lace pattern repeats on each side of the centre stitch.

Keep working in the same way so that 28 sts is increased and one more lace pattern repeat worked on each side of the centre stitch over 14 rows.

After you have worked a total of 122 rows and there are 8 lace pattern repeats on each side of the centre stitch, you have 251 sts on the needle. Continue in the following way:

Row 123: K2, yo, k to centre st, yo, k1 (centre st), yo, k to last 2 sts, yo, k2.

Row 124: K2, p to centre st, k1 (centre st), p to last 2 ts, k2.

Rows 125–126: Repeat rows 123–124 once = 259 sts.

Start following Chart I at row 127:

Row 127 (RS): Following the chart from right to left, work the first 12 sts (11 st + 1 st), repeat the 14 st pattern repeat for 8 times, work 7 sts (6 st + 1 st) before the centre st, k1 (centre st), work 7 sts after the centre st (6 st + 1 st), repeat the 14 st pattern repeat for 8 times, work last 12 sts (11 st + 1 st) = 263 sts.

Work rows 128–142. You have now 291 sts on the needle.

Rows 143–146: Repeat rows 123–126 = 299 sts.

Start following Chart II at row 147:

Row 147 (RS): Following the chart from right to left, work the first 7 sts (6 st + 1 st), repeat the 10 st pattern repeat for 14 times, work 4 sts before the centre st (3 st + 1 st), k1 (centre st), work 5 sts after the centre st (4 st + 1 st), repeat the 10 st pattern repeat for 14 times, work last 6 sts (5 st + 1 st) = 303 sts.

Work rows 148–200. You have now 407 sts on the needle.

Row 201: K2, yo, k to centre st, yo, k1 (centre st), yo, k to last 2 sts, yo, k2 = 411 sts.

After finishing row 201, cast on 26 sts with the working yarn. Turn work.

Next row (WS): P26. Turn work.

Start following the border lace pattern at row 1 of Chart III and work one pattern repeat (26 + 1 st). Turn work.

Row 2 (WS): Work to 1 st before end, p2tog (the last st of the border lace and the first st of the body).

Work rows 3–26 and after that keep repeating rows 1–28. Work p2tog at the end of every 4th row (WS; the last st of the border lace and the first st of the body). One body st will be decreased on every 4th row = every other WS row.

Note When you have decreased altogether 11 body sts, start decreasing on every 2nd row (work p2tog at the end of each WS row). One body st will now be decreased on every WS row.

After you have decreased altogether 191 body sts (11 x 1 st on every 4th row and 180 x 1 st on every 2nd row), decrease 29 x 1 body st on every 4th row, 180 x 1 body st on every 2nd row and 11 x body 1 st on every 4th row. The border lace rows 1–28 are repeated 16½ times on each side of the centre stitch = there will be 33 pattern repeats in total.

When you have completed decreasing the body sts and you have just worked row 28, cast off all sts.

Finishing

Lay the shawl to measurements on a flat surface with the WS facing, wet with a spray bottle and let dry.


Skill levels

Beginner

Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

Technique

Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

Patterns

All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

Adventurous beginner

Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

Technique

Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

Patterns

Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

Intermediate

So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

Technique

In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

Patterns

Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

Advanced

Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

Technique

On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

Patterns

Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

Gauge & Swatching

Gauge and Swatching

Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

Adjusting gauge

If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

Size charts

Here you find size guides for your knitting projects!




 
 




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