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Kuurankukka knitted socks Novita 7 Veljestä and Multiraita

Kuurankukka knitted socks Novita 7 Veljestä and Multiraita

As low as €1.90

These socks are covered all over with a light-coloured flower pattern which makes a beautiful contrast with the graphite main colour. Knitted from Novita 7 Veljestä and 7 Veljestä Multiraita.
Magazine Novita Talvi 2018 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 19
Skill level Intermediate
Kuurankukka knitted socks Novita 7 Veljestä and Multiraita
€5.50
Novita double-pointed needles 20 cm-3.5 mm
€3.30
Novita Finishing Needle 2 pcs
€1.90

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Kuurankukka knitted socks Novita 7 Veljestä and Multiraita
Kuurankukka knitted socks Novita 7 Veljestä and Multiraita

In stock

€1.90

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N041819
    Pattern details
    Size
    38 (EUR shoe size)

    Yarn demand
    Novita 7 Veljestä
    (044) Graphite 100 g and

    Novita 7 Veljestä Multiraita
    (841) Maid 100 g

    Needles and other supplies
    Double-pointed needles:
    Novita 3½ mm (UK 9½ / US 4) or size needed to obtain gauge.

    Designer
    Minna Metsänen

    Details

    Using the Graphite yarn, cast on 56 sts and distribute them onto four double-pointed needles, 14 sts each. The beginning of the round is between needles I and IV.

    Working in the round, make a Latvian braid (when joining the Multiraita yarn, begin from a colour change and don’t select the darker grey as the first colour).

    Round 1: keep both yarns in front. *P1 Graphite, bring Multiraita under Graphite, p1 Multiraita, bring Graphite under Multiraita*, repeat *–* to end of round. The yarns will twist around each other, but you’ll untwist them on the next round.

    Round 2: continue to keep both yarns in front. *K1 Graphite, bring Multiraita over Graphite, k1 Multiraita, bring Graphite over Multiraita*, repeat *–* to end of round.

    Then work multi-coloured ribbing for 4 rounds. Knit 1 round using Multiraita. On the next round, alternate k1 with Graphite and k1 with Multiraita. Knit 2 rounds with Graphite.

    Begin the colourwork from row 1 of the chart. Work the 14 st pattern repeat on each needle. Now work rows 2–23 and then rows 2–12 once more. The piece now measures approx. 19 cm. Break the yarns.

    Work an hourglass heel on needles I and IV = 28 sts.

    Using Graphite, knit the sts on needles IV and I. Turn work, slip 1 st purlwise, tighten the yarn in the back of the work so the loops of the slipped st from the previous round come over the needle = double stitch. Then purl to end of needle IV, turn work and make another double stitch. Note: At the beginning of each row, slip 1 purlwise.

    Keep working short rows, turning the work before the previous double stitch on the needle. When 10 regular sts remain in the middle and there are 9 double sts at both sides, begin the long rows.

    Knit the middle 9 sts and 1 double st (= knit together the loops of the double stitch to form one stitch). *Turn work, slip 1 st. Work the row until you reach a double st at the other end. Work the double st and turn work*. Repeat *–* until all sts are back on the needles. Work the next row with Graphite until you reach the beginning of the round in between needles I and IV.

    Join the Multiraita yarn and continue working the colourwork as established before the heel with all 54 sts. On the first round you can pick up additional sts on both sides of the heel and decrease them on the next round. Keep working the colourwork until the sole measures 19 cm or the sock covers your fifth toe.

    Toe decreases: Continue working the colourwork and use Graphite for the decreases. Use Graphite to work the decreased sts on rounds without decreases. K2tog at the end of needles I and III. Work the skp decrease at the beginning of needles II and IV. Work the decreases in this manner on every 2nd round until 8 sts remain on each needle. Then work the decreases on every round.

    When 12 sts remain, break the yarn, pass it through the sts and pull tightly. Securely weave in.

    Knit the other sock to match.

    Finishing

    Steam the socks lightly.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    Noin 9 x 22 cm

    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns:
    - Multi-coloured ribbing:
    *k1 with Graphite, p1 with Multiraita*, repeat *–* to end of round.
    - Stockinette stitch in the round:
    knit all rows.
    - Colourwork in the round:
    work stockinette stitch following the chart.

    Gauge:
    22 sts of colourwork = 10 cm / 4 in

    Using the Graphite yarn, cast on 56 sts and distribute them onto four double-pointed needles, 14 sts each. The beginning of the round is between needles I and IV.

    Working in the round, make a Latvian braid (when joining the Multiraita yarn, begin from a colour change and don’t select the darker grey as the first colour).

    Round 1: keep both yarns in front. *P1 Graphite, bring Multiraita under Graphite, p1 Multiraita, bring Graphite under Multiraita*, repeat *–* to end of round. The yarns will twist around each other, but you’ll untwist them on the next round.

    Round 2: continue to keep both yarns in front. *K1 Graphite, bring Multiraita over Graphite, k1 Multiraita, bring Graphite over Multiraita*, repeat *–* to end of round.

    Then work multi-coloured ribbing for 4 rounds. Knit 1 round using Multiraita. On the next round, alternate k1 with Graphite and k1 with Multiraita. Knit 2 rounds with Graphite.

    Begin the colourwork from row 1 of the chart. Work the 14 st pattern repeat on each needle. Now work rows 2–23 and then rows 2–12 once more. The piece now measures approx. 19 cm. Break the yarns.

    Work an hourglass heel on needles I and IV = 28 sts.

    Using Graphite, knit the sts on needles IV and I. Turn work, slip 1 st purlwise, tighten the yarn in the back of the work so the loops of the slipped st from the previous round come over the needle = double stitch. Then purl to end of needle IV, turn work and make another double stitch. Note: At the beginning of each row, slip 1 purlwise.

    Keep working short rows, turning the work before the previous double stitch on the needle. When 10 regular sts remain in the middle and there are 9 double sts at both sides, begin the long rows.

    Knit the middle 9 sts and 1 double st (= knit together the loops of the double stitch to form one stitch). *Turn work, slip 1 st. Work the row until you reach a double st at the other end. Work the double st and turn work*. Repeat *–* until all sts are back on the needles. Work the next row with Graphite until you reach the beginning of the round in between needles I and IV.

    Join the Multiraita yarn and continue working the colourwork as established before the heel with all 54 sts. On the first round you can pick up additional sts on both sides of the heel and decrease them on the next round. Keep working the colourwork until the sole measures 19 cm or the sock covers your fifth toe.

    Toe decreases: Continue working the colourwork and use Graphite for the decreases. Use Graphite to work the decreased sts on rounds without decreases. K2tog at the end of needles I and III. Work the skp decrease at the beginning of needles II and IV. Work the decreases in this manner on every 2nd round until 8 sts remain on each needle. Then work the decreases on every round.

    When 12 sts remain, break the yarn, pass it through the sts and pull tightly. Securely weave in.

    Knit the other sock to match.

    Finishing

    Steam the socks lightly.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

    With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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