Köynnös - palmikkoneuletakki Novita Venla

As low as €6.96

Knitted from Novita Venla, the Köynnös cable cardigan is knitted in one piece from the hem up to the armholes. The same cable pattern is used for both the body and the sleeves.
Novita Kesä 2021 -lehti (in Finnish)
10
Intermediate
Customize Köynnös - palmikkoneuletakki Novita Venla

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    €6.96

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    Availability: In stock

    N022110
    Size
    XS/S(M/L)XL(XXL)3XL

    Yarn demand

    Novita Venla

    (764) Lupine 550(600)650(700)800 g



    Needles and other supplies

    Circular needles (80 cm / 32 in) Novita 2½ mm (US 1½) and 3–3½ mm (UK 10–11 / US 2½–4) or sizes needed for gauge



    Designer
    Sisko Sälpäkivi

    Using the smaller needles cast on 360(408)456(504)552 sts. Begin the cable and rib pattern on row 1 (WS) of chart I: work 12 sts at the left end of the chart, repeat the 24 st pattern 14(16)18(20)22 times, work the 12 sts at the right end. Work rows 2–9 of the chart.

    Switch to the larger needles and work row 10 of the chart. You will now work cables in the middle section as well as at both ends. Work 12 sts at the right end of the chart, repeat the 24 st pattern 14(16)18(20)22 times, work the 12 sts at the left end. Work rows 11–24 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 10–24.

    When the piece measures 49(51)53(55)57 cm, place markers at the sides, with 96(108)120(132)144 sts in the fronts and 168(192)216(240)264 sts in the back. Begin neckline decreases at both ends: (RS) work 13 sts, skp (slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over), work to last 15 sts, k2tog, work to end. Repeat the decreases at both ends 26(24)26(25)27 more times on every other row and then 4(6)6(7)7 times every 4th row.

    Note: When the piece measures 51(53)55(57)59 cm, divide the sts into three groups: on a RS row, work to last 12(10)12(10)12 sts before first side marker, bind off next 24(20)24(20)24 sts for an armhole, work to last 12(10)12(10)12 sts before second side marker, bind off the next 24(20)24(20)24 sts for the other armhole, work to end.

    Top left front

    With the left front sts, keep working the neckline decreases at the left end.

    When the armhole measures 21(22)23(24)25 cm, bind off the 41(55)63(77)85 shoulder sts. 12 border sts remaining. Increase 1 seam st at the shoulder end and work cable pattern with these 13 sts. Work approx. 8,5(8,5)9(9)9,5 cm, stretching the border lightly, then bind off.

    Top right front

    With the right front sts, keep working the neckline decreases at the right end.

    When the armhole measures 21(22)23(24)25 cm, bind off the 41(55)63(77)85 shoulder sts. 12 border sts remaining. Increase 1 seam st at the shoulder end and work cable pattern with these 13 sts. Work approx. 8,5(8,5)9(9)9,5 cm, stretching the border lightly, then bind off.

    Top back

    Work as established with the 144(172)192(220)240 back sts. When the armhole measures 21(22)23(24)25 cm, bind off.

    Sleeves

    Using the smaller needles cast on 78(82)86(90)94 sts. Begin ribbing pattern on row 1 (WS) of chart II. The starting point for each size is marked with an arrow. Keep repeating the 24 st pattern as needed. Work rows 2–9 of the chart.

    Switch to the larger needles and begin the cable pattern on row 10 of chart II. The starting point for each size is marked with an arrow. Keep repeating the 24 st pattern as needed. Work rows 11–24 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 10–24.

    Note: When the piece measures 5(4)3(3)3 cm, increase 1 st at both ends. Repeat the increases every 1,5 cm 27(28)30(26)26 more times and then 0(0)0(6)7 times every 1 cm = 134(140)148(156)162 sts. Work the increased sts following the cable pattern.

    When the piece measures 47(48)49(50)51 cm, place markers at both ends. Work 3 cm, then bind off.

    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.

    Finishing

    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.

    Sew the shoulder seams. Sew or graft the back seam of the border. Attach the border to the back neckline. Attach the sleeves (see pattern). Sew the sleeve seams.

    Finished dimensions

    body circumference 90(104)116(128)142 cm / 35½(41)45¾(50½)56 in

    length 72(75)78(81)84 cm / 28¼(29½)30¾(32)33 in

    inner sleeve length 47(48)49(50)51 cm / 18½(19)19¼(19¾)20 in



    Stitch patterns & gauge

    Stitch patterns Ribbing: *k2, p2*, repeat *–*. On the wrong side rows

    Using the smaller needles cast on 360(408)456(504)552 sts. Begin the cable and rib pattern on row 1 (WS) of chart I: work 12 sts at the left end of the chart, repeat the 24 st pattern 14(16)18(20)22 times, work the 12 sts at the right end. Work rows 2–9 of the chart.

    Switch to the larger needles and work row 10 of the chart. You will now work cables in the middle section as well as at both ends. Work 12 sts at the right end of the chart, repeat the 24 st pattern 14(16)18(20)22 times, work the 12 sts at the left end. Work rows 11–24 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 10–24.

    When the piece measures 49(51)53(55)57 cm, place markers at the sides, with 96(108)120(132)144 sts in the fronts and 168(192)216(240)264 sts in the back. Begin neckline decreases at both ends: (RS) work 13 sts, skp (slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over), work to last 15 sts, k2tog, work to end. Repeat the decreases at both ends 26(24)26(25)27 more times on every other row and then 4(6)6(7)7 times every 4th row.

    Note: When the piece measures 51(53)55(57)59 cm, divide the sts into three groups: on a RS row, work to last 12(10)12(10)12 sts before first side marker, bind off next 24(20)24(20)24 sts for an armhole, work to last 12(10)12(10)12 sts before second side marker, bind off the next 24(20)24(20)24 sts for the other armhole, work to end.

    Top left front

    With the left front sts, keep working the neckline decreases at the left end.

    When the armhole measures 21(22)23(24)25 cm, bind off the 41(55)63(77)85 shoulder sts. 12 border sts remaining. Increase 1 seam st at the shoulder end and work cable pattern with these 13 sts. Work approx. 8,5(8,5)9(9)9,5 cm, stretching the border lightly, then bind off.

    Top right front

    With the right front sts, keep working the neckline decreases at the right end.

    When the armhole measures 21(22)23(24)25 cm, bind off the 41(55)63(77)85 shoulder sts. 12 border sts remaining. Increase 1 seam st at the shoulder end and work cable pattern with these 13 sts. Work approx. 8,5(8,5)9(9)9,5 cm, stretching the border lightly, then bind off.

    Top back

    Work as established with the 144(172)192(220)240 back sts. When the armhole measures 21(22)23(24)25 cm, bind off.

    Sleeves

    Using the smaller needles cast on 78(82)86(90)94 sts. Begin ribbing pattern on row 1 (WS) of chart II. The starting point for each size is marked with an arrow. Keep repeating the 24 st pattern as needed. Work rows 2–9 of the chart.

    Switch to the larger needles and begin the cable pattern on row 10 of chart II. The starting point for each size is marked with an arrow. Keep repeating the 24 st pattern as needed. Work rows 11–24 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 10–24.

    Note: When the piece measures 5(4)3(3)3 cm, increase 1 st at both ends. Repeat the increases every 1,5 cm 27(28)30(26)26 more times and then 0(0)0(6)7 times every 1 cm = 134(140)148(156)162 sts. Work the increased sts following the cable pattern.

    When the piece measures 47(48)49(50)51 cm, place markers at both ends. Work 3 cm, then bind off.

    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.

    Finishing

    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.

    Sew the shoulder seams. Sew or graft the back seam of the border. Attach the border to the back neckline. Attach the sleeves (see pattern). Sew the sleeve seams.


    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

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