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Knitted Unicorn hobby horse Novita 7 Veljestä

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With a unicorn as your friend, you can jump all obstacles no matter how high. Knitted from Novita 7 Veljestä. TIP: Make the horn, ears and some strands of hair from the pattern and attach them to a headband.
Magazine Novita Talvi 2018 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 24
Skill level Intermediate
- +

 

Availability:In stock
SKU N041824
Pattern details
Size
One size

Yarn demand
Novita 7 Veljestä
(011) White less than 100 g and

For the horn:
Novita Nalle
(285) Saffron

For the mane:
Novita Baby Wool
(515) Rose,
Novita Nalle
(712) Freesia,
(324) Glacier and
Novita Keto
(252) Yellow Rose

For the eyes:
some thin black yarn, e.g. Novita Cotton Crochet

Needles and other supplies
Double-pointed needles:
Novita 3½-4 mm (UK 8-9½ / US 4-6) or size needed to obtain gauge

Crochet hook:
Novita 3½ mm (UK 9 / US E-4) for the horn and mane

Other supplies:
Cotton stuffing,
approx. 1 m long wooden stick

Designer
Sisko Sälpäkivi

Details

Cast on 24 sts and divide them onto four double-pointed needles, 6 sts each. Work ribbing in the round.

When you have worked for 4 cm, increase 1 knit st at each k2 (= knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop) and 1 purl st at each p2 (= purl the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop). 12 sts increased, 36 sts on the needles.

Work k3, p3 ribbing for 4 cm.

Increase 1 knit st at each k3 and 1 purl st at each p3. 12 sts increased, 48 sts on the needles.

Work k4, p4 ribbing for 2 cm. Now work stockinette st in the round for 8 cm.

Begin the heel flap: knit the sts on needle I onto needle IV = 24 sts. Leave the other sts on hold.

Turn work and work stockinette st as follows:

Row 1: (WS) slip 1, purl to end of row.

Row 2: (RS) slip 1, knit to end of row. Turn work.

Repeat rows 1-2 a total of 12 times (= 24 rows) and then work another WS row.

Continue in stockinette st and begin turning the heel: On the heel flap, work a RS row until 9 sts remain. Work the skp decrease (= slip 1 knitwise, knit 1, pass the slipped st over) and turn work. Slip 1, p6, p2tog, turn work. Slip 1, work until 8 sts remain, skp. Continue in the same manner, decreasing sts on the sides with 8 sts in the middle. When only the middle sts remain and you have last worked a WS row, knit 4 sts onto a spare needle. You are at the midpoint of the heel, with 4 sts on both needles.

Pick up 12 sts from the left edge of the heel flap + 1 st from between the needles. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop onto needle I. Knit the sts on needles II and III. Pick up 12 sts from the right edge of the heel flap + 1 st from between the needles and knit the picked-up sts through the back loop onto needle IV.

Now work stockinette st in the round for 3 cm with all 58 sts..

Continue working stockinette st and begin decreasing on needles I and IV: at the beginning of needle I k3, skp, and at the end of needle IV k2tog, k3. Repeat the decreases every other round 7 times in total.

Note: When you have completed the decreases 5 times, begin decreasing on needles II and III as well: on needle II, skp, k5, skp, k3, and on needle III, k3, k2tog, k5, k2tog. 10 sts each on needles II and III.

10 sts on each needle after the decreases = 40 sts.

When you have worked for 5 cm after the decrease, begin the top decreases: k2tog at the end of needles I and III, skp at the beginning of needles II and IV. Work the decreases on every other round until 6 sts remain on each needle. Then work the decreases on every round.

When 8 sts remain, break the yarn and pass it through the sts. Securely weave in the ends.

Insert the stuffing.

Ears

Cast on 24 sts and divide them onto four needles. Work stockinette st in the round for 3 cm (8 rounds).

Begin decreases: *skp at the beginning of needles I and III, k2tog at the end of needles II and IV. Knit 2 rounds without decreases*, repeat *-* 2 more times. Work the decrease round once more and then another knit round. Decrease 1 st on each needle by k2tog. Break the yarn, pass it through the sts and pull tightly.

Use the rose-coloured yarn to embroider chain sts onto one side of the ear (the inner side when attaching the ear). Fold the ear once and sew the edges together loosely.

Knit another ear in the same manner and attach the ears.

Horn

Using the Saffron yarn, chain 16 (ch st) and work 1 slip stitch (sl st) into the first ch st to close the loop. Work 1 double crochet (dc) into each ch st. Place a marker at the beginning of the round.

Crochet in spiral, moving straight to the next row. Work the dc into the back loops of the sts.

After 2 cm, evenly decrease 2 sts on the next round by crocheting 2 dc together.

Repeat the decreases every 2 cm 4 more times. Crochet 2 dc together until you run out of sts.

Sew the horn to the middle of the forehead.

Mane

Crochet strands of hair using different colours. Chain 12-14 for a beginning chain. Crochet 1 sl st into the 2nd ch st from the hook, work 2-3 sl sts, 3 dc, 3 half trebles and 1 tr into each ch st at the end of the chain.

Crochet a total of 18-20 strands of hair.

Sew the strands behind the horn, between the ears for a forelock.

Additionally you can cut longer loops of yarn and knot them behind the ears and onto the neck.

Eyes

Using the black yarn, embroider the eyes with chain stitches and stem stitches.

Use the rose-coloured yarn to make two French knots for nostrils.

Insert the wooden stick and make a tight knot at the ribbing.

Pattern instructions
Finished dimensions
Noin 9 x 22 cm

Stitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns:
- Stockinette stitch in the round:
knit all rows. Ribbing in the round: *k2, p2*

Cast on 24 sts and divide them onto four double-pointed needles, 6 sts each. Work ribbing in the round.

When you have worked for 4 cm, increase 1 knit st at each k2 (= knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop) and 1 purl st at each p2 (= purl the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop). 12 sts increased, 36 sts on the needles.

Work k3, p3 ribbing for 4 cm.

Increase 1 knit st at each k3 and 1 purl st at each p3. 12 sts increased, 48 sts on the needles.

Work k4, p4 ribbing for 2 cm. Now work stockinette st in the round for 8 cm.

Begin the heel flap: knit the sts on needle I onto needle IV = 24 sts. Leave the other sts on hold.

Turn work and work stockinette st as follows:

Row 1: (WS) slip 1, purl to end of row.

Row 2: (RS) slip 1, knit to end of row. Turn work.

Repeat rows 1-2 a total of 12 times (= 24 rows) and then work another WS row.

Continue in stockinette st and begin turning the heel: On the heel flap, work a RS row until 9 sts remain. Work the skp decrease (= slip 1 knitwise, knit 1, pass the slipped st over) and turn work. Slip 1, p6, p2tog, turn work. Slip 1, work until 8 sts remain, skp. Continue in the same manner, decreasing sts on the sides with 8 sts in the middle. When only the middle sts remain and you have last worked a WS row, knit 4 sts onto a spare needle. You are at the midpoint of the heel, with 4 sts on both needles.

Pick up 12 sts from the left edge of the heel flap + 1 st from between the needles. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop onto needle I. Knit the sts on needles II and III. Pick up 12 sts from the right edge of the heel flap + 1 st from between the needles and knit the picked-up sts through the back loop onto needle IV.

Now work stockinette st in the round for 3 cm with all 58 sts..

Continue working stockinette st and begin decreasing on needles I and IV: at the beginning of needle I k3, skp, and at the end of needle IV k2tog, k3. Repeat the decreases every other round 7 times in total.

Note: When you have completed the decreases 5 times, begin decreasing on needles II and III as well: on needle II, skp, k5, skp, k3, and on needle III, k3, k2tog, k5, k2tog. 10 sts each on needles II and III.

10 sts on each needle after the decreases = 40 sts.

When you have worked for 5 cm after the decrease, begin the top decreases: k2tog at the end of needles I and III, skp at the beginning of needles II and IV. Work the decreases on every other round until 6 sts remain on each needle. Then work the decreases on every round.

When 8 sts remain, break the yarn and pass it through the sts. Securely weave in the ends.

Insert the stuffing.

Ears

Cast on 24 sts and divide them onto four needles. Work stockinette st in the round for 3 cm (8 rounds).

Begin decreases: *skp at the beginning of needles I and III, k2tog at the end of needles II and IV. Knit 2 rounds without decreases*, repeat *-* 2 more times. Work the decrease round once more and then another knit round. Decrease 1 st on each needle by k2tog. Break the yarn, pass it through the sts and pull tightly.

Use the rose-coloured yarn to embroider chain sts onto one side of the ear (the inner side when attaching the ear). Fold the ear once and sew the edges together loosely.

Knit another ear in the same manner and attach the ears.

Horn

Using the Saffron yarn, chain 16 (ch st) and work 1 slip stitch (sl st) into the first ch st to close the loop. Work 1 double crochet (dc) into each ch st. Place a marker at the beginning of the round.

Crochet in spiral, moving straight to the next row. Work the dc into the back loops of the sts.

After 2 cm, evenly decrease 2 sts on the next round by crocheting 2 dc together.

Repeat the decreases every 2 cm 4 more times. Crochet 2 dc together until you run out of sts.

Sew the horn to the middle of the forehead.

Mane

Crochet strands of hair using different colours. Chain 12-14 for a beginning chain. Crochet 1 sl st into the 2nd ch st from the hook, work 2-3 sl sts, 3 dc, 3 half trebles and 1 tr into each ch st at the end of the chain.

Crochet a total of 18-20 strands of hair.

Sew the strands behind the horn, between the ears for a forelock.

Additionally you can cut longer loops of yarn and knot them behind the ears and onto the neck.

Eyes

Using the black yarn, embroider the eyes with chain stitches and stem stitches.

Use the rose-coloured yarn to make two French knots for nostrils.

Insert the wooden stick and make a tight knot at the ribbing.


Skill levels

Beginner

Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

Technique

Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

Patterns

All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

Adventurous beginner

Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

Technique

Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

Patterns

Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

Intermediate

So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

Technique

In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

Patterns

Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

Advanced

Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

Technique

On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

Patterns

Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

Gauge & Swatching

Gauge and Swatching

Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

Adjusting gauge

If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

Size charts

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