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Knitted sweater for dogs Novita Nalle and Nalle Taika or Nalle Garden

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Best Friend! This mos stitch sweater is stretchy and comfy to wear in crispy weather.
Magazine Novita Talvi 2017 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 33
Skill level Intermediate
- +

 

Availability:In stock
SKU N041733
Pattern details
Size
XS(S)M(L)XL

Yarn demand
1st colour scheme:
Novita Nalle
(044) Graphite 150(200)200(250)250 g and
Novita Nalle Taika
(819) Forest berries 150(200)200(250)250 g

2nd colour scheme:
Novita Nalle
(043) Stone 150(200)200(250)250 g and
Novita Nalle Garden
(843) Hanging moss 150(200)200(250)250 g

3rd colour scheme:
Novita Nalle
(061) Linen 150(200)200(250)250 g and
Novita Nalle Garden
(830) Mediterranean 150(200)200(250)250 g

Needles and other supplies
Needles:
Novita 5½ mm or size needed to obtain gauge

Designer
Sonia Heiskanen

Details

The back

Using one strand of each yarn, cast on 23(31)41(55)67 sts. Work in moss stitch and increase 1 st at the end of each row by knitting the last st twice (= knit the st through the front loop and back loop in pattern). When there are 31(39)49(63)75 sts on the needles, continue working in moss st without increases.

When the piece measures 7(11)13(16)19 cm (female) or 12(16)18(21)24 cm (male), place the 1st stitch markers on both ends of the piece.

When the piece measures 17(22)25(30)34 cm, place the 2nd stitch markers on both ends of the piece.

When the piece measures 25(32)36(41)46 cm, place the 3rd stitch markers on both ends of the piece and begin the decreases: at the beginning and end of the next row, either purl or knit 2 sts together in pattern.

Repeat the decreases every 2nd row for 3(4)5(7)8 more times = 23(29)37(47)57 sts.

Begin the ribbing with k2 and at the same time evenly decrease 1(3)3(5)7 sts = 22(26)34(42)50 sts.

When the piece measures 37(45)50(56)62 cm, bind off in pattern.

The belly

Using one strand of each yarn, cast on 20(20)23(23)26 sts, place the 1st stitch markers on both ends of the piece and begin the ribbing on the WS row: p2,*k1, p2*, repeat from * to * to end of row.

When you have worked 3 rows, increase 6(6)7(7)8 sts on the next row: on the RS of the work k2,*purl the purl st through both the front and back loop, k2*, repeat from * to * to end of row. 26(26)30(30)34 sts on the needles.

When the piece measures 5(6)7(9)10 cm (male) or 10(11)12(14)15 cm (female), place the 2nd stitch markers on both ends of the piece.

When the piece measures 13(16)18(20)22 cm (male) or 18(21)23(25)27 cm (female), place the 3rd stitch markers on both ends of the piece.

When the piece measures 25(29)32(35)38 cm (male) or 30(34)37(40)43 cm (female), bind off in pattern.

Finishing

Joining the pieces: Use the stitch markers to align the pieces and sew them together. Leave holes for the front legs between the 2nd and 3rd markers.

If needed, attach a rubber band to the lower end of the belly.

Pattern instructions
Finished dimensions
Dog's measurements: chest circumference approx. 34–40(42–48)50–56(58–64)66–72 cm (measured at the widest point, behind the front legs) length of the back approx. 30(38)44(50)56 cm (from the withers to the base of the tail when standing upright)

Stitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns:
- Moss stitch:
*k1, p1*, repeat from * to *. On the wrong side rows, purl the knit stitches and knit the purl stitches.
- K2, p2 ribbing:
*k2, p2*, repeat from * to *. On the wrong side rows, knit the knit stitches and purl the purl stitches.

Gauge:
14,5 sts and 25 rows of moss stitch using two strands of yarn (Nalle and Nalle Taika or Gardenia together) = 10 cm

Note:
The sweater is knitted in two pieces (back and belly) from the hem to the collar.

The back

Using one strand of each yarn, cast on 23(31)41(55)67 sts. Work in moss stitch and increase 1 st at the end of each row by knitting the last st twice (= knit the st through the front loop and back loop in pattern). When there are 31(39)49(63)75 sts on the needles, continue working in moss st without increases.

When the piece measures 7(11)13(16)19 cm (female) or 12(16)18(21)24 cm (male), place the 1st stitch markers on both ends of the piece.

When the piece measures 17(22)25(30)34 cm, place the 2nd stitch markers on both ends of the piece.

When the piece measures 25(32)36(41)46 cm, place the 3rd stitch markers on both ends of the piece and begin the decreases: at the beginning and end of the next row, either purl or knit 2 sts together in pattern.

Repeat the decreases every 2nd row for 3(4)5(7)8 more times = 23(29)37(47)57 sts.

Begin the ribbing with k2 and at the same time evenly decrease 1(3)3(5)7 sts = 22(26)34(42)50 sts.

When the piece measures 37(45)50(56)62 cm, bind off in pattern.

The belly

Using one strand of each yarn, cast on 20(20)23(23)26 sts, place the 1st stitch markers on both ends of the piece and begin the ribbing on the WS row: p2,*k1, p2*, repeat from * to * to end of row.

When you have worked 3 rows, increase 6(6)7(7)8 sts on the next row: on the RS of the work k2,*purl the purl st through both the front and back loop, k2*, repeat from * to * to end of row. 26(26)30(30)34 sts on the needles.

When the piece measures 5(6)7(9)10 cm (male) or 10(11)12(14)15 cm (female), place the 2nd stitch markers on both ends of the piece.

When the piece measures 13(16)18(20)22 cm (male) or 18(21)23(25)27 cm (female), place the 3rd stitch markers on both ends of the piece.

When the piece measures 25(29)32(35)38 cm (male) or 30(34)37(40)43 cm (female), bind off in pattern.

Finishing

Joining the pieces: Use the stitch markers to align the pieces and sew them together. Leave holes for the front legs between the 2nd and 3rd markers.

If needed, attach a rubber band to the lower end of the belly.


Skill levels

Beginner

Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

Technique

Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

Patterns

All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

Adventurous beginner

Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

Technique

Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

Patterns

Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

Intermediate

So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

Technique

In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

Patterns

Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

Advanced

Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

Technique

On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

Patterns

Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

Gauge & Swatching

Gauge and Swatching

Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

Adjusting gauge

If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

Size charts

Here you find size guides for your knitting projects!




 
 




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