Knitted slippers with leather sole Novita 7 Veljestä Multiraita

As low as €6.96

These are actual slippers, with leather soles included. Accordingly, they're knitted quite differently than socks. Start out with a knitted sole, then pick up stitches and work your way up.
Novita Syksy 2019 -lehti (in Finnish)
40
Intermediate
Customize Knitted slippers with leather sole Novita 7 Veljestä Multiraita

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    €6.96

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    Availability: In stock

    N031940
    Size
    Children(Women)Men

    Yarn demand
    Novita 7 Veljestä Multiraita
    (808) Poet <200(200)200 g

    Needles and other supplies
    Double-pointed needles
    Novita 4 mm (UK 8 / US 6) and 5 mm (UK 6 / US 8) or size needed to obtain gauge

    Other supplies
    Leather sole, size 32/33(38/39)42/43 (EUR)

    Designer
    Sari Nordlund

    Using the smaller needles and one strand of yarn cast on 4(8)8 sts and purl the WS row. Work stockinette st and begin increases:

    Increase row 1: (RS) k1, increase 1 st (= knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), k2(6)6, increase 1 st, k1 = 6(8)8 sts. Purl the WS row.

    Increase row 2: k1, increase 1 st, k4(8)8, increase 1 st, k1 = 8(12)12 sts.

    Work stockinette st until the sole measures 9(12)13 cm. On the next RS row resume increases:

    Increase row 3: k1, increase 1 st, k7(11)11 = 9(13)13 sts. Purl the WS row.

    Increase row 4: k8(12)12, increase 1 st, k1 = 10(14)14 sts. Purl the WS row.

    Increase row 5: k1, increase 1 st, k8(12)12, increase 1 st, k1 = 12(16)16 sts. Purl the WS row.

    Increase row 6: k1, increase 1 st, k10(14)14, increase 1 st, k1 = 14(18)18 sts. Purl the WS row.

    Increase row 7: k1, increase 1 st, k12(16)16, increase 1 st, k1 = 16(20)20 sts. Purl the WS row.

    Work stockinette st until the piece measures 12(18)20 cm. On the next RS row begin decreases:

    Decrease row 1: k1, k2tog, k13(17)17 = 15(19)19 sts. Purl the WS row.

    Decrease row 2: k12(18)18, k2tog, k1 = 14(18)18 sts. Purl the WS row.

    Decrease row 3: k1, k2tog, k8(12)12, k2tog, k1 = 12(16)16 sts. Purl the WS row.

    Decrease row 4: k1, k2tog, k6(10)10, k2tog, k1 = 10(14)14 sts. Purl the WS row.

    Decrease row 5: k1, k2tog, k4(8)8, k2tog, k1 = 8(12)12 sts. Purl the WS row.

    Decrease row 6: k1, k2tog, k2(6)6, k2tog, k1. Purl the WS row. 6(10)10 sts on the needles. The sole piece is now complete.

    Turn work and continue with the larger needles and the yarn held double (check that the strands are at the same point in the colour report). Place marker for beginning of round, k6(10)10, pick up and knit 33(39)43 sts from the side, 4(8)8 sts from the heel and 33(39)43 sts from the other side = 76(96)104 sts. Distribute the sts across four needles so that the beginning of round remains at the edge of the toe and each needle has 19(24)26 sts.

    Work stockinette st in the round. On the first round decrease 4(4)4 sts on each needle = 60(80)88 sts. Work 2 rounds in stockinette st.

    On the next round work 8(10)10 sts in garter st, k2tog, work stockinette st to last 2 sts, skp. 2 sts decreased = 58(78)86 sts. Continue in this manner until 30(40)44 sts remain.

    On the next round work 8(10)10 sts in garter st, then work stockinette st to end of round. Leave the 8(10)10 garter sts on hold. Turn work. Work stockinette st flat for 2 rows.

    Next row (WS): knit all sts. Then work stockinette st for 6 rows. Bind off.

    Move the 8(10)10 front sts back onto the needles. With yarn held double join the yarn to the right front edge so that you are ready to work the RS row. Work garter st for 6 rows and stockinette st for 10 rows. Bind off all remaining sts.

    Knit the other slipper in the same manner.

    Finishing

    Fold the top border once and sew the edges to the inside. Securely weave in. Steam and shape.

    Using one strand of yarn baste the leather sole to the slipper, making sure it's correctly positioned. Sew using secure vertical stitches.

    Finished dimensions
    ""

    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch pattern
    - Stockinette stitch: knit the right side rows and purl the wrong side rows.
    - Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all rows.
    - Garter stitch in the round:
    Round 1: knit all sts.
    Round 2: purl all sts.
    Keep repeating rounds 1-2. Garter stitch: knit all rows.

    Gauge
    16 sts in stockinette stitch with yarn held double = 10 cm / 4 in

    Note
    The sole piece is knitted flat from heel to toe. The body and cuff are knitted in the round with sts picked up from the sole. Finally the leather sole is sewn to the slipper.



    Using the smaller needles and one strand of yarn cast on 4(8)8 sts and purl the WS row. Work stockinette st and begin increases:

    Increase row 1: (RS) k1, increase 1 st (= knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), k2(6)6, increase 1 st, k1 = 6(8)8 sts. Purl the WS row.

    Increase row 2: k1, increase 1 st, k4(8)8, increase 1 st, k1 = 8(12)12 sts.

    Work stockinette st until the sole measures 9(12)13 cm. On the next RS row resume increases:

    Increase row 3: k1, increase 1 st, k7(11)11 = 9(13)13 sts. Purl the WS row.

    Increase row 4: k8(12)12, increase 1 st, k1 = 10(14)14 sts. Purl the WS row.

    Increase row 5: k1, increase 1 st, k8(12)12, increase 1 st, k1 = 12(16)16 sts. Purl the WS row.

    Increase row 6: k1, increase 1 st, k10(14)14, increase 1 st, k1 = 14(18)18 sts. Purl the WS row.

    Increase row 7: k1, increase 1 st, k12(16)16, increase 1 st, k1 = 16(20)20 sts. Purl the WS row.

    Work stockinette st until the piece measures 12(18)20 cm. On the next RS row begin decreases:

    Decrease row 1: k1, k2tog, k13(17)17 = 15(19)19 sts. Purl the WS row.

    Decrease row 2: k12(18)18, k2tog, k1 = 14(18)18 sts. Purl the WS row.

    Decrease row 3: k1, k2tog, k8(12)12, k2tog, k1 = 12(16)16 sts. Purl the WS row.

    Decrease row 4: k1, k2tog, k6(10)10, k2tog, k1 = 10(14)14 sts. Purl the WS row.

    Decrease row 5: k1, k2tog, k4(8)8, k2tog, k1 = 8(12)12 sts. Purl the WS row.

    Decrease row 6: k1, k2tog, k2(6)6, k2tog, k1. Purl the WS row. 6(10)10 sts on the needles. The sole piece is now complete.

    Turn work and continue with the larger needles and the yarn held double (check that the strands are at the same point in the colour report). Place marker for beginning of round, k6(10)10, pick up and knit 33(39)43 sts from the side, 4(8)8 sts from the heel and 33(39)43 sts from the other side = 76(96)104 sts. Distribute the sts across four needles so that the beginning of round remains at the edge of the toe and each needle has 19(24)26 sts.

    Work stockinette st in the round. On the first round decrease 4(4)4 sts on each needle = 60(80)88 sts. Work 2 rounds in stockinette st.

    On the next round work 8(10)10 sts in garter st, k2tog, work stockinette st to last 2 sts, skp. 2 sts decreased = 58(78)86 sts. Continue in this manner until 30(40)44 sts remain.

    On the next round work 8(10)10 sts in garter st, then work stockinette st to end of round. Leave the 8(10)10 garter sts on hold. Turn work. Work stockinette st flat for 2 rows.

    Next row (WS): knit all sts. Then work stockinette st for 6 rows. Bind off.

    Move the 8(10)10 front sts back onto the needles. With yarn held double join the yarn to the right front edge so that you are ready to work the RS row. Work garter st for 6 rows and stockinette st for 10 rows. Bind off all remaining sts.

    Knit the other slipper in the same manner.

    Finishing

    Fold the top border once and sew the edges to the inside. Securely weave in. Steam and shape.

    Using one strand of yarn baste the leather sole to the slipper, making sure it's correctly positioned. Sew using secure vertical stitches.


    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

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