Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
As low as €6.96
Availability: In stock
Garter stitch: knit every row.
16 sts to 10 cm measured over garter st
(see diagram)
Using Raita yarn cast on 3 sts. Knit 1 row. Cont in garter st, sl1 knitwise at the beg of each row and purl last st at the end of each row. Beg increases as folls:
Inc row: sl1 knitwise, M1, work until 1 st is left on your left hand needle, M1, P1.
Rep inc row every alt row 9 times = 23 sts. Cast off sts and leave last st on a needle. Do not break yarn.
Wind half of light brown yarn into second skein.
Using light brown yarn K1(=st left from triangle), pick up and knit 12 sts from short right side of the triangle =13 sts. Turn.
Next row: sl1 knitwise, K12 =13 sts. Do not break yarn.
Using Raita yarn start increases as folls:
Inc row: K1, M1, work until 1 st is left on your left hand needle, M1, P1. Turn.
Next row: sl1 knitwise, K13 =14 sts.
Rep inc row every alt row 5 times = 18 sts. Sl1 knitwise only at beg of left end and K1 at right end.
Work until 10 rows of Raita stripe have been completed.
AT THE SAME TIME twist light brown yarn at the beg of the row with Raita yarn. Leave sts on a circular needle.
Using second skein of light brown yarn pick up and knit 6 sts from short side of previous block, 13 sts from left side of the triangle = 19 sts. Turn.
Next row: K18, P1.
Using second skein of Raita yarn start increases as folls:
Inc row: sl1 knitwise, work until 1 st is left on your left hand needle, M1, K1. Turn.
Next row: K19, P1.
Rep inc row every alt row 5 times = 24 sts. Sl1 knitwise only at beg of right end and K1 at left end.
AT THE SAME TIME twist light brown yarn at the beg of the row with Raita yarn.
Work until 10 rows of Raita stripe have been completed. Leave sts on a circular needle.
Using light brown yarn K18 from first circular needle, pick up and knit 6 sts from short side of previous block =24 sts. Turn. Note there are no increases while working with light brown yarn.
Next row: sl1 knitwise, K23.
Using Raita yarn start increases as folls:
Inc row: K1, M1, work until 1 st is left on your left hand needle, P1. Turn.
Next row: sl1 knitwise, K24.
Rep inc row every alt row 5 times = 29 sts. Sl1 knitwise only at beg of left end and K1 at right end.
AT THE SAME TIME twist light brown yarn at the beg of the row with Raita yarn.
Work until 10 rows of Raita stripe have been completed. Leave sts on a circular needle.
Using light brown yarn pick up and knit 6 sts from short side of previous block (pick up 1st st from between 2 sts at the end of needle and bound light brown yarn and Raita yarn on WS by picking sts alternately over and under these two yarns), K24 from needle = 30 sts. Turn.
Next row: K29, P1.
Using Raita yarn start increases as folls:
Inc row: sl1 knitwise, work until 1 st is left on your left hand needle, M1, K1. Turn.
Next row: K30, P1.
Rep inc row every alt row 5 times = 35 sts. Sl1 knitwise only at beg of right end and K1 at left end.
AT THE SAME TIME twist light brown yarn at the beg of the row with Raita yarn.
Work until 10 rows of Raita stripe have been completed. Leave sts on a circular needle.
Cont working alternately side-stripes as before. Side is increased by 11 sts each time.
Work until there are 13 side-stripes at left side of the triangle and 14 side-stripes at right side of the triangle.
Using light brown yarn knit 2 rows. Cast off sts and leave last st on a needle. Do not break yarn.
Pick up and knit 5 sts from short side of previous block, knit sts on other needle.
Knit 1 row.
Cast off sts and leave last st on a needle. Do not break yarn.
Pick up and knit from shawl's long side about 17 sts to 10cm.
Knit 1 row.
Cast off sts.
Lightly steam the shawl.
Garter stitch: knit every row.
16 sts to 10 cm measured over garter st
(see diagram)
Using Raita yarn cast on 3 sts. Knit 1 row. Cont in garter st, sl1 knitwise at the beg of each row and purl last st at the end of each row. Beg increases as folls:
Inc row: sl1 knitwise, M1, work until 1 st is left on your left hand needle, M1, P1.
Rep inc row every alt row 9 times = 23 sts. Cast off sts and leave last st on a needle. Do not break yarn.
Wind half of light brown yarn into second skein.
Using light brown yarn K1(=st left from triangle), pick up and knit 12 sts from short right side of the triangle =13 sts. Turn.
Next row: sl1 knitwise, K12 =13 sts. Do not break yarn.
Using Raita yarn start increases as folls:
Inc row: K1, M1, work until 1 st is left on your left hand needle, M1, P1. Turn.
Next row: sl1 knitwise, K13 =14 sts.
Rep inc row every alt row 5 times = 18 sts. Sl1 knitwise only at beg of left end and K1 at right end.
Work until 10 rows of Raita stripe have been completed.
AT THE SAME TIME twist light brown yarn at the beg of the row with Raita yarn. Leave sts on a circular needle.
Using second skein of light brown yarn pick up and knit 6 sts from short side of previous block, 13 sts from left side of the triangle = 19 sts. Turn.
Next row: K18, P1.
Using second skein of Raita yarn start increases as folls:
Inc row: sl1 knitwise, work until 1 st is left on your left hand needle, M1, K1. Turn.
Next row: K19, P1.
Rep inc row every alt row 5 times = 24 sts. Sl1 knitwise only at beg of right end and K1 at left end.
AT THE SAME TIME twist light brown yarn at the beg of the row with Raita yarn.
Work until 10 rows of Raita stripe have been completed. Leave sts on a circular needle.
Using light brown yarn K18 from first circular needle, pick up and knit 6 sts from short side of previous block =24 sts. Turn. Note there are no increases while working with light brown yarn.
Next row: sl1 knitwise, K23.
Using Raita yarn start increases as folls:
Inc row: K1, M1, work until 1 st is left on your left hand needle, P1. Turn.
Next row: sl1 knitwise, K24.
Rep inc row every alt row 5 times = 29 sts. Sl1 knitwise only at beg of left end and K1 at right end.
AT THE SAME TIME twist light brown yarn at the beg of the row with Raita yarn.
Work until 10 rows of Raita stripe have been completed. Leave sts on a circular needle.
Using light brown yarn pick up and knit 6 sts from short side of previous block (pick up 1st st from between 2 sts at the end of needle and bound light brown yarn and Raita yarn on WS by picking sts alternately over and under these two yarns), K24 from needle = 30 sts. Turn.
Next row: K29, P1.
Using Raita yarn start increases as folls:
Inc row: sl1 knitwise, work until 1 st is left on your left hand needle, M1, K1. Turn.
Next row: K30, P1.
Rep inc row every alt row 5 times = 35 sts. Sl1 knitwise only at beg of right end and K1 at left end.
AT THE SAME TIME twist light brown yarn at the beg of the row with Raita yarn.
Work until 10 rows of Raita stripe have been completed. Leave sts on a circular needle.
Cont working alternately side-stripes as before. Side is increased by 11 sts each time.
Work until there are 13 side-stripes at left side of the triangle and 14 side-stripes at right side of the triangle.
Using light brown yarn knit 2 rows. Cast off sts and leave last st on a needle. Do not break yarn.
Pick up and knit 5 sts from short side of previous block, knit sts on other needle.
Knit 1 row.
Cast off sts and leave last st on a needle. Do not break yarn.
Pick up and knit from shawl's long side about 17 sts to 10cm.
Knit 1 row.
Cast off sts.
Lightly steam the shawl.
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.