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Cast on 36 sts and distribute them onto four needles, 9 sts each. Begin working ribbing in the round with k2. The beginning of the round is between needles IV and I.
When the ribbing measures 10 cm, redistribute the sts: 7 sts on needle I, 8 sts on needle II, 10 sts on needle III and 11 sts on needle IV. Begin working reverse stockinette st and the cable pattern from row 1 of chart: work 20 sts in reverse stockinette st, work the 10 st cable pattern from chart, work 6 sts in reverse stockinette st. Work rows 2-10 of the chart with the cable sts.
Work rows 1-6 of chart on the cable. On the next round, mark the thumb hole on needle II: work through needle I and the first 3 sts on needle II, then work the next 5 sts with different-coloured yarn. Move the different-coloured sts back onto the left-hand needle, work to end of round, and continue the cable pattern from row 7 of chart. In the cable pattern, work rows 8-10 of chart, rows 1-10 again, and then work rows 11-24. 2 sts decreased on rows 18, 20, 22 and 24. 28 sts on the needles. Work row 25 of chart while evenly decreasing 3 sts (=purl 2 together) = 24 sts.
Distribute the sts onto four needles, 6 sts each. On the next round, p2tog at end of each needle = 20 sts. Repeat the decreases on every round 3 more times. Break the yarn and pull it tightly through the remaining 8 sts. Securely weave in the yarn ends.
Cast on 36 sts and distribute them onto four needles, 9 sts each. Begin working ribbing in the round with p2. The beginning of the round is between needles IV and I.
When the ribbing measures 10 cm, redistribute the sts: 11 sts on needle I, 10 sts on needle II, 8 sts on needle III and 7 sts on needle IV. Begin working reverse stockinette st and the cable pattern from row 1 of chart: work 6 sts in reverse stockinette st, work the 10 st cable pattern from chart, work 20 sts in reverse stockinette st. Work rows 2-10 of the chart with the cable sts.
Work rows 1-6 of chart on the cable. On the next round, mark the thumb hole on needle III: work the sts on needles I and II and continue the cable pattern from row 7 of chart. On needle III, work the first 5 sts with a different-coloured yarn and move them back onto the left-hand needle. Work to end of round. In the cable pattern, work rows 8-10 of chart, rows 1-10 again, and then work rows 11-24. 2 sts decreased on rows 18, 20, 22 and 24. 28 sts on the needles. Work row 25 of chart while evenly decreasing 3 sts (=purl 2 together) = 24 sts.
Distribute the sts onto four needles, 6 sts each. On the next round, p2tog at end of each needle = 20 sts. Repeat the decreases on every round 3 more times. Break the yarn and pull it tightly through the remaining 8 sts. Securely weave in the yarn ends.
Remove the different-coloured yarn. Pick up the sts from the top and bottom edge of the thumb hole as well as additional sts from the sides for 13 sts in total. Distribute these sts onto three needles and work reverse stockinette st in the round. When you have worked for 5,5 cm or when the thumb covers half of your thumbnail, decrease 1 st on the next round = 12 sts. Now p2tog at the end of each needle on every round until 3 sts remain. Break the yarn, pull it tightly through the remaining stitches. Securely weave in the yarn ends on the wrong side.
Knit the other thumb to match.
Steam the mittens lightly.
Cast on 36 sts and distribute them onto four needles, 9 sts each. Begin working ribbing in the round with k2. The beginning of the round is between needles IV and I.
When the ribbing measures 10 cm, redistribute the sts: 7 sts on needle I, 8 sts on needle II, 10 sts on needle III and 11 sts on needle IV. Begin working reverse stockinette st and the cable pattern from row 1 of chart: work 20 sts in reverse stockinette st, work the 10 st cable pattern from chart, work 6 sts in reverse stockinette st. Work rows 2-10 of the chart with the cable sts.
Work rows 1-6 of chart on the cable. On the next round, mark the thumb hole on needle II: work through needle I and the first 3 sts on needle II, then work the next 5 sts with different-coloured yarn. Move the different-coloured sts back onto the left-hand needle, work to end of round, and continue the cable pattern from row 7 of chart. In the cable pattern, work rows 8-10 of chart, rows 1-10 again, and then work rows 11-24. 2 sts decreased on rows 18, 20, 22 and 24. 28 sts on the needles. Work row 25 of chart while evenly decreasing 3 sts (=purl 2 together) = 24 sts.
Distribute the sts onto four needles, 6 sts each. On the next round, p2tog at end of each needle = 20 sts. Repeat the decreases on every round 3 more times. Break the yarn and pull it tightly through the remaining 8 sts. Securely weave in the yarn ends.
Cast on 36 sts and distribute them onto four needles, 9 sts each. Begin working ribbing in the round with p2. The beginning of the round is between needles IV and I.
When the ribbing measures 10 cm, redistribute the sts: 11 sts on needle I, 10 sts on needle II, 8 sts on needle III and 7 sts on needle IV. Begin working reverse stockinette st and the cable pattern from row 1 of chart: work 6 sts in reverse stockinette st, work the 10 st cable pattern from chart, work 20 sts in reverse stockinette st. Work rows 2-10 of the chart with the cable sts.
Work rows 1-6 of chart on the cable. On the next round, mark the thumb hole on needle III: work the sts on needles I and II and continue the cable pattern from row 7 of chart. On needle III, work the first 5 sts with a different-coloured yarn and move them back onto the left-hand needle. Work to end of round. In the cable pattern, work rows 8-10 of chart, rows 1-10 again, and then work rows 11-24. 2 sts decreased on rows 18, 20, 22 and 24. 28 sts on the needles. Work row 25 of chart while evenly decreasing 3 sts (=purl 2 together) = 24 sts.
Distribute the sts onto four needles, 6 sts each. On the next round, p2tog at end of each needle = 20 sts. Repeat the decreases on every round 3 more times. Break the yarn and pull it tightly through the remaining 8 sts. Securely weave in the yarn ends.
Remove the different-coloured yarn. Pick up the sts from the top and bottom edge of the thumb hole as well as additional sts from the sides for 13 sts in total. Distribute these sts onto three needles and work reverse stockinette st in the round. When you have worked for 5,5 cm or when the thumb covers half of your thumbnail, decrease 1 st on the next round = 12 sts. Now p2tog at the end of each needle on every round until 3 sts remain. Break the yarn, pull it tightly through the remaining stitches. Securely weave in the yarn ends on the wrong side.
Knit the other thumb to match.
Steam the mittens lightly.
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.