Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
Knitted Lapland mittens Novita 7 Veljestä and Nordic Wool
As low as €5.95
These mittens were inspired by traditional Finnish patterns. Knitted from Novita 7 Veljestä and Nordic Wool.
Novita Talvi 2018 -lehti (in Finnish)
1
Expert
Availability: In stock
N04181
Sale
Novita 7 Veljestä 100 g
As low as
€3.57
Regular Price
€5.95
Size
WomenYarn demand
Novita 7 Veljestä(010) Off-white less than 100 g
(549) Christmas less than 50 g
(099) Black less than 50 g and
Novita Nordic Wool
(645) Squirrel 50 g
Needles and other supplies
Double-pointed needles:Novita 4 mm and 3½ mm or sizes needed to obtain gauge
Designer
NovitaLeft mitten
Using the larger needles and the off-white yarn, cast on 56 sts and distribute them onto four needles, 14 sts each. The beginning of the round is between needles I and IV. Working in the round make a slanted stripe: *p1 with off-white, p1 with Christmas*, repeat *-*. Make sure that you carry the yarns on the right side of the work, picking the working yarn under the other one. Knit 1 round with the off-white yarn. Work another slanted stripe with the off-white and the black yarn. Knit 1 round with the off-white yarn. Work a third slanted stripe with off-white and the honey. Then work 3 rounds of stockinette st with the off-white yarn.
Begin the colourwork section from row 1 of chart I and work the 8 st pattern repeat 7 times. Work rows 2-25.
Continue with the off-white yarn. On the first round evenly decrease 3 sts on each needle = 44 sts, 11 sts on each needle.
On the next round create holes to pass the braids through: *k2, k2tog, yo*, repeat *-* 10 more times.
Switch to the smaller needles and work 2 rounds in stockinette st. Begin the increases for the thumb gusset: knit all sts on needles I and II until 3 sts remain on needle II. Make 1 (= pick up the strand of yarn between two sts and knit it through the back loop), k2, m1, k1. Continue working the sts on needles I and II in stockinette st, and repeat the gusset increases on every 3rd round 5 more times. 2 sts increased each time.
When you have finished the increases, work 1 round, and then work the next round until you reach the gusset. Move the 14 thumb sts on hold. Cast on 2 new sts at the gusset and continue working needles I and II in stockinette st and needles III and IV following the colourwork chart.
Note: When you have worked the first thumb gusset increases, on the next round begin the colourwork pattern on needles III and IV from row 1 of chart II. Work rows 2-39.
Continue working the pattern, work rows 40-49 and at the same time begin the top decreases: at the beginning of needles I and III work the skp decrease (= sl 1, k1, psso), and at the end of needles II and IV k2tog. Work the decreases on each round until 8 sts remain. Break the yarn and pass it through the remaining sts. Securely weave in the ends.
Right mitten
Work as you did the left mitten, but work the thumb gusset at the beginning of needle III and the colourwork pattern on needles I and II.
Thumb
Pick up the sts on hold as well as 2 additional sts from the thumbhole edge. Distribute these 16 sts onto three needles and work stockinette st in the round.
When you have worked for 5 cm or when the thumb covers half your thumbnail, work the top decreases. K2tog at the end of each needle until 4 sts remain. Then k1 and pass the other sts over from left to right. Securely weave in the yarn ends.
Finishing
Steam the mittens lightly.
Make two approx. 60-80 cm long twisted braids using all the colours and pass them through the holes on the cuffs. Make tassels for the ends of the braids using the off-white yarn and some of the Christmas and black yarns.
Finished dimensions
size: womenStitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns:- Stockinette stitch in the round:
knit all rows.
- Colourwork in the round:
work in stockinette st following the chart and the written instructions.
Gauge:
22 sts and 28 rows in stockinette st with the smaller needles = 10 cm
Note:
When working the pattern on the back of the mitten, have a separate ball of yarn for each vertical stripe. Carry the off-white yarn as in colourwork and knit each vertical stripe from a separate ball, forming vertical floats from one row to the next.
Left mitten
Using the larger needles and the off-white yarn, cast on 56 sts and distribute them onto four needles, 14 sts each. The beginning of the round is between needles I and IV. Working in the round make a slanted stripe: *p1 with off-white, p1 with Christmas*, repeat *-*. Make sure that you carry the yarns on the right side of the work, picking the working yarn under the other one. Knit 1 round with the off-white yarn. Work another slanted stripe with the off-white and the black yarn. Knit 1 round with the off-white yarn. Work a third slanted stripe with off-white and the honey. Then work 3 rounds of stockinette st with the off-white yarn.
Begin the colourwork section from row 1 of chart I and work the 8 st pattern repeat 7 times. Work rows 2-25.
Continue with the off-white yarn. On the first round evenly decrease 3 sts on each needle = 44 sts, 11 sts on each needle.
On the next round create holes to pass the braids through: *k2, k2tog, yo*, repeat *-* 10 more times.
Switch to the smaller needles and work 2 rounds in stockinette st. Begin the increases for the thumb gusset: knit all sts on needles I and II until 3 sts remain on needle II. Make 1 (= pick up the strand of yarn between two sts and knit it through the back loop), k2, m1, k1. Continue working the sts on needles I and II in stockinette st, and repeat the gusset increases on every 3rd round 5 more times. 2 sts increased each time.
When you have finished the increases, work 1 round, and then work the next round until you reach the gusset. Move the 14 thumb sts on hold. Cast on 2 new sts at the gusset and continue working needles I and II in stockinette st and needles III and IV following the colourwork chart.
Note: When you have worked the first thumb gusset increases, on the next round begin the colourwork pattern on needles III and IV from row 1 of chart II. Work rows 2-39.
Continue working the pattern, work rows 40-49 and at the same time begin the top decreases: at the beginning of needles I and III work the skp decrease (= sl 1, k1, psso), and at the end of needles II and IV k2tog. Work the decreases on each round until 8 sts remain. Break the yarn and pass it through the remaining sts. Securely weave in the ends.
Right mitten
Work as you did the left mitten, but work the thumb gusset at the beginning of needle III and the colourwork pattern on needles I and II.
Thumb
Pick up the sts on hold as well as 2 additional sts from the thumbhole edge. Distribute these 16 sts onto three needles and work stockinette st in the round.
When you have worked for 5 cm or when the thumb covers half your thumbnail, work the top decreases. K2tog at the end of each needle until 4 sts remain. Then k1 and pass the other sts over from left to right. Securely weave in the yarn ends.
Finishing
Steam the mittens lightly.
Make two approx. 60-80 cm long twisted braids using all the colours and pass them through the holes on the cuffs. Make tassels for the ends of the braids using the off-white yarn and some of the Christmas and black yarns.
This pattern is publish in the latest issue of Novita Magazine. You can buy your own copy here
Beginner
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Technique
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
Patterns
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Adventurous beginner
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Technique
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
Intermediate
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
Technique
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Advanced
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
Technique
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Gauge and Swatching
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
Adjusting gauge
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.
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