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Knitted and felted oven mitt and potholder Novita Natura and Novita Cotton Soft

As low as €0.00

Easy & quick! The mitt and potholder are knitted with three strands of yarn: two strands of the felting Natura yarn and one strand of the non-felting Cotton Soft yarn.
Magazine Novita Talvi 2017 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 43
Skill level Beginner
- +

 

Availability:In stock
SKU N041743
Pattern details
Size
One size

Yarn demand
Oven mitt:
Novita Natura
(048) Clay less than 100 g and
Novita Cotton Soft
(099) Black less than 50 g

Potholder:
Novita Natura (098) Wolf 50 g and
Novita Cotton Soft
(099) Black less than 25 g

Needles and other supplies
Double-pointed needles (oven mitt):
Novita 8-10 mm (UK 0-000 / US 11-15) or size needed.

Needles (potholder):
Novita 8-10 mm (UK 0-000 / US 11-15) or size needed.

Other supplies:
Some black velvet ribbon for the hanging loop

Designer
Saara Toikka

Details

Oven mitt

With three strands of yarn, cast on 32 sts and divide them evenly onto four needles, 8 sts each. The beginning of the round is between needles IV and I.

Knit 1 round and purl 1 round. Work stockinette st for the rest of the piece, i.e. knit all rounds.

When the piece measures 14 cm, mark the spot for the thumb hole: using a different yarn, knit the 8 sts on needle I and 6 sts from needle II (14 sts in total). Move these sts back onto the left needle and knit them again using the three strands of yarn. Continue working stockinette st with all sts.

When the piece measures 15 cm from the thumbhole, begin the top decreases:

1st decrease round: *k2, k2tog*, repeat *-* to end. 8 sts decreased, 24 sts on the needles. Work 1 round without decreases.

2nd decrease round: *k1, k2tog*, repeat *-* to end. 8 sts decreased, 16 sts on the needles. Work 1 round without decreases.

3rd decrease round: k2tog to end of round. 8 sts decreased again, 8 sts remaining. Break the yarn and pull it through the sts. Weave in.

Thumb

Remove the different yarn and pick up the 14 sts from both sides of the thumbhole. Pick up 2 additional sts from both sides = 32 sts. Distribute the sts evenly onto four needles, 8 sts each. The beginning of the round is between needles IV and I. Work stockinette st in the round.

Note: After 2 rounds, begin the decreases: On needle I, k2tog, knit to end of needle. Knit the sts on needle II until 2 sts remain, k2tog. On needle III, k2tog, knit to end of needle. Knit the sts on needle IV until 2 sts remain, k2tog. 4 sts decreased, 28 sts on the needles. Work 2 rounds without decreases and then repeat the decreases = 24 sts. Repeat the decreases every 3rd round 2 more times = 16 sts.

Work 5 rounds without decreases. *K2tog*, repeat *-* 7 more times. Break the yarn and pull it through the sts. Weave in.

Finishing

Turn the mitt inside out. Use an iron to flatten the edges if needed. Loosely attach some plastic inside the mitt to keep the layers from felting together. If this is your first time felting with a washing machine, try a 30-40 °C program with an 800 rpm spin cycle. Use a small amount of laundry detergent. Add a few towels to increase the felting. Shape the mitt while it is still wet.

Use the velvet ribbon to make a hanging loop.

Potholder

With three strands of yarn, cast on 30 sts. Work in garter st until the piece measures 30 cm. Securely bind off and weave in.

Finishing

Felt the potholder in the same way as you did the oven mitt but don't use the plastic. Use the velvet ribbon to make a hanging loop.

Pattern instructions
Finished dimensions
Noin 9 x 22 cm

Stitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns:
- Stockinette stitch in the round:
knit all rows.
- Garter stitch

Oven mitt

With three strands of yarn, cast on 32 sts and divide them evenly onto four needles, 8 sts each. The beginning of the round is between needles IV and I.

Knit 1 round and purl 1 round. Work stockinette st for the rest of the piece, i.e. knit all rounds.

When the piece measures 14 cm, mark the spot for the thumb hole: using a different yarn, knit the 8 sts on needle I and 6 sts from needle II (14 sts in total). Move these sts back onto the left needle and knit them again using the three strands of yarn. Continue working stockinette st with all sts.

When the piece measures 15 cm from the thumbhole, begin the top decreases:

1st decrease round: *k2, k2tog*, repeat *-* to end. 8 sts decreased, 24 sts on the needles. Work 1 round without decreases.

2nd decrease round: *k1, k2tog*, repeat *-* to end. 8 sts decreased, 16 sts on the needles. Work 1 round without decreases.

3rd decrease round: k2tog to end of round. 8 sts decreased again, 8 sts remaining. Break the yarn and pull it through the sts. Weave in.

Thumb

Remove the different yarn and pick up the 14 sts from both sides of the thumbhole. Pick up 2 additional sts from both sides = 32 sts. Distribute the sts evenly onto four needles, 8 sts each. The beginning of the round is between needles IV and I. Work stockinette st in the round.

Note: After 2 rounds, begin the decreases: On needle I, k2tog, knit to end of needle. Knit the sts on needle II until 2 sts remain, k2tog. On needle III, k2tog, knit to end of needle. Knit the sts on needle IV until 2 sts remain, k2tog. 4 sts decreased, 28 sts on the needles. Work 2 rounds without decreases and then repeat the decreases = 24 sts. Repeat the decreases every 3rd round 2 more times = 16 sts.

Work 5 rounds without decreases. *K2tog*, repeat *-* 7 more times. Break the yarn and pull it through the sts. Weave in.

Finishing

Turn the mitt inside out. Use an iron to flatten the edges if needed. Loosely attach some plastic inside the mitt to keep the layers from felting together. If this is your first time felting with a washing machine, try a 30-40 °C program with an 800 rpm spin cycle. Use a small amount of laundry detergent. Add a few towels to increase the felting. Shape the mitt while it is still wet.

Use the velvet ribbon to make a hanging loop.

Potholder

With three strands of yarn, cast on 30 sts. Work in garter st until the piece measures 30 cm. Securely bind off and weave in.

Finishing

Felt the potholder in the same way as you did the oven mitt but don't use the plastic. Use the velvet ribbon to make a hanging loop.


Skill levels

Beginner

Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

Technique

Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

Patterns

All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

Adventurous beginner

Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

Technique

Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

Patterns

Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

Intermediate

So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

Technique

In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

Patterns

Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

Advanced

Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

Technique

On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

Patterns

Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

Gauge & Swatching

Gauge and Swatching

Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

Adjusting gauge

If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

Size charts

Find size guides for your knitting projects

With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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