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Knitted and felted angel slippers Novita Natura

Knitted and felted angel slippers Novita Natura

As low as €2.10

These angel slippers make a nice gift for children or a special someone. From Novita Natura.
Magazine Novita Talvi 2018 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 25
Skill level Intermediate
Knitted and felted angel slippers Novita Natura
€3.95
€3.95
€3.95
Novita crochet hook 15 cm -5.0 mm
€2.10
Novita double ended pins 20 cm-6.0 mm
€3.30

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Knitted and felted angel slippers Novita Natura
Knitted and felted angel slippers Novita Natura

In stock

€2.10

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N041825
    Pattern details
    Size
    34(38)42 (EUR shoe size)

    Yarn demand
    Novita Natura
    (010) Off White 100(150)150 g

    Needles and other supplies
    Double-pointed needles:
    Novita 6 mm (UK 4 / US 10)

    Crochet hook:
    Novita 5 mm (UK 6 / US H-8) for the angel

    Designer
    Minna Metsänen

    Details

    Cast on 44(48)56 sts and distribute them onto four needle, 11(12)14 sts each. The beginning of the round is between needles I and IV. Work stockinette st in the round for 12 rounds.

    Fold the edge of the piece once so that the cast-on edge is on the inside. Pick up 1 st from the cast-on edge onto needle I and knit it together with the 1st st on the needle. Pick up the next st on the cast-on edge onto the left-hand needle and knit 2 together. Continue in this manner until the you have knitted together the entire cast-on edge at the end of round. Knit 1 round.

    Begin the heel flap: knit the sts on needle I onto needle IV = 22(24)28 sts. Leave the other sts on hold. Work stockinette st flat until the heel flap has 14(16)18 rows.

    Work another WS row and begin turning the heel. Work the right end of the heel flap until 9(9)10 sts remain at the other end. Work the skp decrease (= slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped st over) and turn work. Slip 1, p4(6)8, p2tog, turn work. Slip 1, work until 8(8)9 sts remain, skp. Continue in this manner, decreasing sts on the sides with 6(8)10 sts in the middle. When only the middle sts remain, divide the sts onto two needles, 3(4)5 sts each. Work 3(4)5 sts from needle IV to move the yarn.

    Using a spare needle, pick up and knit 10(12)14 sts from the left edge of the heel flap + 1 st from between the needles. Knit the sts on needles II and III. Pick up and knit 10(12)14 sts from the right edge of the heel flap + 1 st from between the needles and work the 3(4)5 heel flap sts.

    Work all sts in stockinette st and work the gusset decreases: k2tog at the end of needle I, skp at the beginning of needle IV. Work 1 round without decreases, then repeat the decreases. Repeat the decreases on every other round until 11(12)14 sts remain on each needle.

    Continue working stockinette st until the sole measures 24(26)28 cm.

    Toe decreases: Size 34 only: knit 1 round and at the same time decrease 1 st on each needle. 40(48)56 sts now on the needles.

    At the middle and end of each needle, k2tog = 32(40)48 sts. Work 3(4)5 rounds without decreases, then repeat the decreases at the middle and end of each needle = 24(32)40 sts. Work 2(3)4 rounds without decreases, then repeat the decreases = 16(24)32 sts. 1 less round without decreases after each decrease round. Continue in this manner until 12 sts remain in total. Break the yarn, pass it through the sts and pull tightly. Securely weave in.

    Knit the other slipper to match.

    Angel

    Head: Twist the yarn around your finger and crochet into the loop:

    Round 1: 4 dc. Continue working in the spiral, moving straight to the next row.

    Round 2: work 2 dc into each st = 8 dc.

    Round 3: work 1 dc into each st = 8 dc.

    Put some yarn inside the ball and crochet 2 dc together for the whole round = 4 dc. Break the yarn. Use a sewing needle to thread it through the remaining sts. Pull tightly to close the hole, and weave in.

    Wings: Twist the yarn around your finger and crochet into the loop:

    Round 1: 8 dc. Continue working in the spiral, moving straight to the next row.

    Round 2: work 2 dc into each st = 16 dc.

    Round 3: *1 dc, 2 dc into the next st*, repeat *–* 7 more times = 24 dc.

    Round 4: *2 dc, 2 dc into the next st*, repeat *–* 7 more times = 32 dc.

    Round 5: crochet 1 slip st into each st. Break the yarn.

    Crochet the other angel in the same manner.

    Finishing

    Felt the slippers and angel parts in a washing machine. Use laundry detergent and program a gentle 40 °C cycle. Put in some additional laundry, e.g. a few towels, but don’t overload the machine. The felting result varies depending on the machine. Before felting, insert some plastic inside the slippers so they don’t felt together. After the wash, shape and brush the slippers. Repeat the wash cycle if needed. Wash the finished slippers by hand.

    Cut the crochet circles in half to form the wings. Sew together approx. 1,5 cm of the round edges. Use sewing thread. Attach the head between the wings, at the top of the stitching. Attach the angel to the heel of the slipper, or where you like.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    sole after felting approx. 22(25)28 cm / 8¾(9¾)11 in

    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns:
    - Stockinette stitch in the round:
    knit all rows.
    - Stockinette stitch flat:
    Right side rows: knit all stitches.
    Wrong side rows: purl all stitches.

    Gauge:
    15,5 sts in stockinette st before felting = 10 cm / 4 in

    Note:
    The pattern accounts for shrinkage.

    Cast on 44(48)56 sts and distribute them onto four needle, 11(12)14 sts each. The beginning of the round is between needles I and IV. Work stockinette st in the round for 12 rounds.

    Fold the edge of the piece once so that the cast-on edge is on the inside. Pick up 1 st from the cast-on edge onto needle I and knit it together with the 1st st on the needle. Pick up the next st on the cast-on edge onto the left-hand needle and knit 2 together. Continue in this manner until the you have knitted together the entire cast-on edge at the end of round. Knit 1 round.

    Begin the heel flap: knit the sts on needle I onto needle IV = 22(24)28 sts. Leave the other sts on hold. Work stockinette st flat until the heel flap has 14(16)18 rows.

    Work another WS row and begin turning the heel. Work the right end of the heel flap until 9(9)10 sts remain at the other end. Work the skp decrease (= slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped st over) and turn work. Slip 1, p4(6)8, p2tog, turn work. Slip 1, work until 8(8)9 sts remain, skp. Continue in this manner, decreasing sts on the sides with 6(8)10 sts in the middle. When only the middle sts remain, divide the sts onto two needles, 3(4)5 sts each. Work 3(4)5 sts from needle IV to move the yarn.

    Using a spare needle, pick up and knit 10(12)14 sts from the left edge of the heel flap + 1 st from between the needles. Knit the sts on needles II and III. Pick up and knit 10(12)14 sts from the right edge of the heel flap + 1 st from between the needles and work the 3(4)5 heel flap sts.

    Work all sts in stockinette st and work the gusset decreases: k2tog at the end of needle I, skp at the beginning of needle IV. Work 1 round without decreases, then repeat the decreases. Repeat the decreases on every other round until 11(12)14 sts remain on each needle.

    Continue working stockinette st until the sole measures 24(26)28 cm.

    Toe decreases: Size 34 only: knit 1 round and at the same time decrease 1 st on each needle. 40(48)56 sts now on the needles.

    At the middle and end of each needle, k2tog = 32(40)48 sts. Work 3(4)5 rounds without decreases, then repeat the decreases at the middle and end of each needle = 24(32)40 sts. Work 2(3)4 rounds without decreases, then repeat the decreases = 16(24)32 sts. 1 less round without decreases after each decrease round. Continue in this manner until 12 sts remain in total. Break the yarn, pass it through the sts and pull tightly. Securely weave in.

    Knit the other slipper to match.

    Angel

    Head: Twist the yarn around your finger and crochet into the loop:

    Round 1: 4 dc. Continue working in the spiral, moving straight to the next row.

    Round 2: work 2 dc into each st = 8 dc.

    Round 3: work 1 dc into each st = 8 dc.

    Put some yarn inside the ball and crochet 2 dc together for the whole round = 4 dc. Break the yarn. Use a sewing needle to thread it through the remaining sts. Pull tightly to close the hole, and weave in.

    Wings: Twist the yarn around your finger and crochet into the loop:

    Round 1: 8 dc. Continue working in the spiral, moving straight to the next row.

    Round 2: work 2 dc into each st = 16 dc.

    Round 3: *1 dc, 2 dc into the next st*, repeat *–* 7 more times = 24 dc.

    Round 4: *2 dc, 2 dc into the next st*, repeat *–* 7 more times = 32 dc.

    Round 5: crochet 1 slip st into each st. Break the yarn.

    Crochet the other angel in the same manner.

    Finishing

    Felt the slippers and angel parts in a washing machine. Use laundry detergent and program a gentle 40 °C cycle. Put in some additional laundry, e.g. a few towels, but don’t overload the machine. The felting result varies depending on the machine. Before felting, insert some plastic inside the slippers so they don’t felt together. After the wash, shape and brush the slippers. Repeat the wash cycle if needed. Wash the finished slippers by hand.

    Cut the crochet circles in half to form the wings. Sew together approx. 1,5 cm of the round edges. Use sewing thread. Attach the head between the wings, at the top of the stitching. Attach the angel to the heel of the slipper, or where you like.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Here you find size guides for your knitting projects!




     
     




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