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Knee-High Lace Stockings Novita Nalle

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These knee-high lace stockings from Novita Nalle yarn have a beautiful recurring pattern.
Magazine Novita Kevät 2017 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 35
Skill level Expert
- +

 

Availability:In stock
SKU N011735
Pattern details
Size
1 Size

Yarn demand
Novita Nalle
Linen 200 g

Needles and other supplies
Needles
Set of 5 double pointed needles Novita 3.0 mm
Set of 5 double pointed needles Novita 3.5 mm
Or the sizes to give you the correct tension.

Designer
Susanna Mertsalmi

Details

Using larger needles cast on 64 s and distribute the sts onto four needles: 15, 17, 17, and 15 sts, respectively. Join to work in the round. The beginning of the round will be between needle IV and needle I.

Start following Chart I at row 1 in the following way: P6, work the 52 st lace pattern repeat once, p6. Work repeating rows 1–24 of Chart I and always working first 6 sts and last 6 sts in reverse stocking stitch.

When the leg measures 15 cm, start decreasing in the following way:

Next round: P2tog, work in pattern until 2 sts remain, p2tog = 62 s.

Repeat these decreases every 4 rows for 5 times more = 52 sts.

When the leg measures about 22 cm, switch to smaller needles.

When the leg measures about 33 cm and you have just worked row 12 of chart I, distribute the sts onto four needles in the following way: needle I: 11 sts; needle II: 15 sts; needle III; 15 sts; and needle IV: 11 sts.

Next, start working the heel flap: Knit the sts on needle I onto needle IV (= 22 sts). Leave the rest of the sts on hold for a while. Turn work and start following Chart II at row 1 (note that this is a WS row). Then, working back and forth work rows 2–17.

Next, start decreasing for heel turn:

Next alternate decrease row (RS): P2, k5, skp, k4, k2tog. Turn work.

Next alternate decrease row (WS): Sl1, p4, p2tog. Turn work.

Next alternate decrease row (RS): Sl1, k4, skp. Turn work.

Next alternate decrease row (WS): Sl1, p4, p2tog. Turn work.

Next alternate decrease row (RS): Sl1, k4, skp. Turn work.

Keep working these decreases on each side of the 6 centre sts until you have only the 6 centre sts left. Then, distribute the heel flap sts onto two needles, 3 sts on each.

Next, with the aid of needle 5 pick up 12 sts along the left edge of the heel flap + 1 st between the needles. Slip last 2 picked-up sts onto needle II (= 17 sts on needle II) and knit 11 sts onto needle I (14 sts on needle I). Work sts on needles II and III by following row 1 of Chart III and working 32 sts in lace pattern. Next, pick up 1 st between needles + 12 sts along the right edge of the heel flap and knit first 2 picked-up sts onto needle III (= 17 sts on needle III). Knit 11 sts onto needle IV (= 14 sts on needle IV).

Join to work in the round and work in the following way: Needle I: work in st st; needles II – III: work rows 2 – 24 of Chart III (34 st pattern repeat); needle IV: work in st st. At the same time decrease for the gusset:

Round 1: Work to last 2 sts on needle I, k2tog, work to needle IV, skp, work to end.

Round 2: Work in pattern to end.

Round 3: Work to last 2 sts on needle I, k2tog, work to needle IV, skp, work to end.

Rounds 4–5: Work in pattern to end.

Round 6: Work to last 2 sts on needle I, k2tog, work to needle IV, skp, work to end.

Rounds 7–9: Work in pattern to end.

Round 10: Work to last 2 sts on needle I, k2tog, work to needle IV, skp, work to end.

You have now 10 sts on needles I and IV and 17 sts on needs II and III (= 54 sts).

Keep working in lace stitch pattern on needles II & III and in st st on needles I & IV until the sole measures about 19 cm or the little toe is covered and you have just finished row 4, 8, 12, 16, 20, or 24 of Chart III.

Start decreasing for the toe working in the following way: Needle I: K to end; needles II & III: follow Chart IV at row 1; needle IV: k to end.

Keeping the overall pattern correct work rows 2–7 of Chart IV. You have now 10 sts on each needle and 40 sts in total.

Next, start working in st st on all needles and decreasing in the following way:

Decrease round: Needle I: K to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; needle II: k1, skp, k to end; needle III: k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; needle IV: k1, skp, k to end.

Repeat this decrease round until you have 8 sts left.

Cut yarn, thread through the stitches and pull tight. Weave in ends.

Make another sock to match.

Finishing

Steam block gently.

Pattern instructions
Finished dimensions
Palan leveys noin 53 cm.

Stitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns
Lace stitch pattern in the round
Follow the chart and written instructions.

Reverse stocking stitch in the round
All rounds: P to end.

Stocking stitch in the round
All rounds: K to end.

Tension
24 sts over lace stitch pattern using smaller needles = 10 cm.

Using larger needles cast on 64 s and distribute the sts onto four needles: 15, 17, 17, and 15 sts, respectively. Join to work in the round. The beginning of the round will be between needle IV and needle I.

Start following Chart I at row 1 in the following way: P6, work the 52 st lace pattern repeat once, p6. Work repeating rows 1–24 of Chart I and always working first 6 sts and last 6 sts in reverse stocking stitch.

When the leg measures 15 cm, start decreasing in the following way:

Next round: P2tog, work in pattern until 2 sts remain, p2tog = 62 s.

Repeat these decreases every 4 rows for 5 times more = 52 sts.

When the leg measures about 22 cm, switch to smaller needles.

When the leg measures about 33 cm and you have just worked row 12 of chart I, distribute the sts onto four needles in the following way: needle I: 11 sts; needle II: 15 sts; needle III; 15 sts; and needle IV: 11 sts.

Next, start working the heel flap: Knit the sts on needle I onto needle IV (= 22 sts). Leave the rest of the sts on hold for a while. Turn work and start following Chart II at row 1 (note that this is a WS row). Then, working back and forth work rows 2–17.

Next, start decreasing for heel turn:

Next alternate decrease row (RS): P2, k5, skp, k4, k2tog. Turn work.

Next alternate decrease row (WS): Sl1, p4, p2tog. Turn work.

Next alternate decrease row (RS): Sl1, k4, skp. Turn work.

Next alternate decrease row (WS): Sl1, p4, p2tog. Turn work.

Next alternate decrease row (RS): Sl1, k4, skp. Turn work.

Keep working these decreases on each side of the 6 centre sts until you have only the 6 centre sts left. Then, distribute the heel flap sts onto two needles, 3 sts on each.

Next, with the aid of needle 5 pick up 12 sts along the left edge of the heel flap + 1 st between the needles. Slip last 2 picked-up sts onto needle II (= 17 sts on needle II) and knit 11 sts onto needle I (14 sts on needle I). Work sts on needles II and III by following row 1 of Chart III and working 32 sts in lace pattern. Next, pick up 1 st between needles + 12 sts along the right edge of the heel flap and knit first 2 picked-up sts onto needle III (= 17 sts on needle III). Knit 11 sts onto needle IV (= 14 sts on needle IV).

Join to work in the round and work in the following way: Needle I: work in st st; needles II – III: work rows 2 – 24 of Chart III (34 st pattern repeat); needle IV: work in st st. At the same time decrease for the gusset:

Round 1: Work to last 2 sts on needle I, k2tog, work to needle IV, skp, work to end.

Round 2: Work in pattern to end.

Round 3: Work to last 2 sts on needle I, k2tog, work to needle IV, skp, work to end.

Rounds 4–5: Work in pattern to end.

Round 6: Work to last 2 sts on needle I, k2tog, work to needle IV, skp, work to end.

Rounds 7–9: Work in pattern to end.

Round 10: Work to last 2 sts on needle I, k2tog, work to needle IV, skp, work to end.

You have now 10 sts on needles I and IV and 17 sts on needs II and III (= 54 sts).

Keep working in lace stitch pattern on needles II & III and in st st on needles I & IV until the sole measures about 19 cm or the little toe is covered and you have just finished row 4, 8, 12, 16, 20, or 24 of Chart III.

Start decreasing for the toe working in the following way: Needle I: K to end; needles II & III: follow Chart IV at row 1; needle IV: k to end.

Keeping the overall pattern correct work rows 2–7 of Chart IV. You have now 10 sts on each needle and 40 sts in total.

Next, start working in st st on all needles and decreasing in the following way:

Decrease round: Needle I: K to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; needle II: k1, skp, k to end; needle III: k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; needle IV: k1, skp, k to end.

Repeat this decrease round until you have 8 sts left.

Cut yarn, thread through the stitches and pull tight. Weave in ends.

Make another sock to match.

Finishing

Steam block gently.


Skill levels

Beginner

Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

Technique

Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

Patterns

All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

Adventurous beginner

Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

Technique

Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

Patterns

Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

Intermediate

So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

Technique

In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

Patterns

Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

Advanced

Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

Technique

On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

Patterns

Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

Gauge & Swatching

Gauge and Swatching

Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

Adjusting gauge

If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

Size charts

Find size guides for your knitting projects

With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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