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Ilmatar lace top Novita Venla

Ilmatar lace top Novita Venla

As low as €1.90

This airy lace top is knitted in one piece from bottom to armholes.
Magazine Novita Kesä 2020 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 29
Skill level Intermediate
Ilmatar lace top Novita Venla
€6.90
€6.90
€6.90
€6.90
€6.90
€6.90
Novita Finishing Needle 2 pcs
€1.90

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Ilmatar lace top Novita Venla
Ilmatar lace top Novita Venla

In stock

€1.90

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N022029
    Pattern details
    Size
    XS(S)M(L)XL(XXL)

    Yarn demand
    Novita Venla
    (010) Off White 200(250)300(300)350(400) g


    Needles and other supplies
    Circular needles (80 cm / 32 in) Novita 3 mm (UK 11 / US 2½) and 3½ mm (US 4) or sizes needed;
    a 3 mm circular needle (40 cm / 16 in) for the neckline


    Designer
    Sari Nordlund

    Details
    Body
     
    Using the larger needles cast on 252(270)288(324)342(360) sts, place marker for beginning of round and work garter st in the round for 6 rounds.
     
    Begin the lace pattern on row 1 of the chart. Repeat the 18 st pattern 14(15)16(18)19(20) times. Work rows 2–12 of the chart, then work rows 1–12 once more.
     
    Switch to the smaller needles and work stockinette st in the round. Place another marker at the other side so that there are 126(135)144(162)171(180) sts each on the front and back pieces.
     
    When the piece measures 10(10)11(11)12(12) cm, decrease 2 sts at both ends: *k1, k2tog, work to last 3 sts before marker, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), k1*, repeat *–* once more. 4 sts decreased. Repeat the decreases as established 11(11)11(12)12(12) more times every 3 cm = 204(222)240(272)290(308) sts, 102(111)120(136)145(154) sts each on the front and back pieces.
     
    When the piece measures 45(46)47(48)50(51) cm, bind off 8(10)14(14)16(18) sts at both ends for the armholes: work to last 4(5)7(7)8(9) sts before marker, bind off next 8(10)14(14)16(18) sts, work to last 4(5)7(7)8(9) sts before beginning of round, bind off last 4(5)7(7)8(9) sts and the first 4(5)7(7)8(9) of the next round. Bind off as follows: Knit 2 and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one. Repeat until you have bound off the number of sts given. 94(101)106(122)129(136) sts each now on the front and back pieces. Leave the front sts on hold.
     
     
    Top back
     
    Work stockinette st flat with the 94(101)106(122)129(136) back sts and begin armhole decreases at both ends:
     
    Sizes XS, S and M: (RS) k3, k2tog, work to last 5 sts, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), k3. Keep working 3 sts at both ends in garter st. Work stockinette st with all other sts and repeat the decreases every other row 6(8)9 more times = 80(83)86 sts.
     
    Sizes L, XL and XXL: (RS) k3, k3tog, work to last 7 sts, sk2p (= slip 1 knitwise, k2tog, pass slipped st over), k3. Keep working 3 sts at both ends in garter st. Work stockinette st with all other sts and repeat the decreases every other row 1(1)2 more time(s). On the next RS row k3, k2tog, work to last 5 sts, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), k3. Repeat the decreases every other row 9(11)11 more times = 94(97)100 sts.
     
    When the armhole measures 16(17)18(19)19(20) cm, bind off the middle 42(43)44(46)47(48) sts for the neckline. Work one side at a time. After 2 rows bind off 2 sts at the neckline edge. Bind off as established.
     
    When the armhole measures 18(19)20(21)21(22) cm, leave the 17(18)19(22)23(24) shoulder sts on hold.
     
    Knit the other side in the same manner.
     
     
    Top front
     
    Work like back until the armhole measures 6(7)8(9)9(10) cm.
     
    Leave the middle 36(37)38(40)41(42) sts on hold for the neckline. Leave the right-hand sts on hold and work the left side first. At the neckline edge decrease 4x1 st on every other row and 1 st on every 4th row: on a RS row work to last 3 sts before neckline, k2tog, k1.
     
    When the armhole measures 18(19)20(21)21(22) cm, leave the 17(18)19(22)23(24) shoulder sts on hold.
     
    Knit the right side in the same manner. Decrease using k2tog. Leave the sts on hold.
     
     
    Finishing
     
    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.
     
    Shoulder seams: Turn WS out. Place the right back sts back on the needles and align the sts with the right front sts. Join the pieces: purl together the first sts on the needles and slip them off the needles. Work the 2nd pair of sts in the same manner. Pass the first st on the right-hand needle over the second one. Continue until you run out of sts. Alternatively you can bind off all sts and then sew the shoulder seam. Work the left shoulder in the same manner.
     
     
    Neckline: Place the sts on hold onto the short circular needle and pick up additional sts from the RS of the neckline for 120(120)120(124)124(128) sts in total, 50(50)50(52)52(54) sts from back neckline and 70(70)70(72)72(74) sts from front neckline. Work ribbing in the round for 1,5 cm. Bind off in pattern.
    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    chest circumference below armhole 74(82)90(100)108(116) cm / 29¼(32¼)35½(39¼)42½(45¾) in
    hem circumference 92(100)108(118)126(134) cm / 36¼(39¼)42½(46½)49½(52¾) in
    length 63(65)67(69)71(73) cm / 24¾(25½)26½(27¼)28(28¾) in
     


    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns
    - Garter stitch in the round: *knit 1 round, purl 1 round*, repeat *–*.
    - Lace pattern in the round: work following the chart and instructions.
    - Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all rows.
     -Stockinette stitch: knit the right side rows and purl the wrong side rows.
     -Garter stitch: knit all rows. Ribbing in the round: *knit 1, purl 1*, keep repeating *–*.
     
    Gauge
    27 sts in stockinette st with smaller needles = 10 cm / 4 in
     
    Note
    The garment is knitted in the round up to the armholes. The top back and front sections are worked flat.


    Body
     
    Using the larger needles cast on 252(270)288(324)342(360) sts, place marker for beginning of round and work garter st in the round for 6 rounds.
     
    Begin the lace pattern on row 1 of the chart. Repeat the 18 st pattern 14(15)16(18)19(20) times. Work rows 2–12 of the chart, then work rows 1–12 once more.
     
    Switch to the smaller needles and work stockinette st in the round. Place another marker at the other side so that there are 126(135)144(162)171(180) sts each on the front and back pieces.
     
    When the piece measures 10(10)11(11)12(12) cm, decrease 2 sts at both ends: *k1, k2tog, work to last 3 sts before marker, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), k1*, repeat *–* once more. 4 sts decreased. Repeat the decreases as established 11(11)11(12)12(12) more times every 3 cm = 204(222)240(272)290(308) sts, 102(111)120(136)145(154) sts each on the front and back pieces.
     
    When the piece measures 45(46)47(48)50(51) cm, bind off 8(10)14(14)16(18) sts at both ends for the armholes: work to last 4(5)7(7)8(9) sts before marker, bind off next 8(10)14(14)16(18) sts, work to last 4(5)7(7)8(9) sts before beginning of round, bind off last 4(5)7(7)8(9) sts and the first 4(5)7(7)8(9) of the next round. Bind off as follows: Knit 2 and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one. Repeat until you have bound off the number of sts given. 94(101)106(122)129(136) sts each now on the front and back pieces. Leave the front sts on hold.
     
     
    Top back
     
    Work stockinette st flat with the 94(101)106(122)129(136) back sts and begin armhole decreases at both ends:
     
    Sizes XS, S and M: (RS) k3, k2tog, work to last 5 sts, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), k3. Keep working 3 sts at both ends in garter st. Work stockinette st with all other sts and repeat the decreases every other row 6(8)9 more times = 80(83)86 sts.
     
    Sizes L, XL and XXL: (RS) k3, k3tog, work to last 7 sts, sk2p (= slip 1 knitwise, k2tog, pass slipped st over), k3. Keep working 3 sts at both ends in garter st. Work stockinette st with all other sts and repeat the decreases every other row 1(1)2 more time(s). On the next RS row k3, k2tog, work to last 5 sts, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), k3. Repeat the decreases every other row 9(11)11 more times = 94(97)100 sts.
     
    When the armhole measures 16(17)18(19)19(20) cm, bind off the middle 42(43)44(46)47(48) sts for the neckline. Work one side at a time. After 2 rows bind off 2 sts at the neckline edge. Bind off as established.
     
    When the armhole measures 18(19)20(21)21(22) cm, leave the 17(18)19(22)23(24) shoulder sts on hold.
     
    Knit the other side in the same manner.
     
     
    Top front
     
    Work like back until the armhole measures 6(7)8(9)9(10) cm.
     
    Leave the middle 36(37)38(40)41(42) sts on hold for the neckline. Leave the right-hand sts on hold and work the left side first. At the neckline edge decrease 4x1 st on every other row and 1 st on every 4th row: on a RS row work to last 3 sts before neckline, k2tog, k1.
     
    When the armhole measures 18(19)20(21)21(22) cm, leave the 17(18)19(22)23(24) shoulder sts on hold.
     
    Knit the right side in the same manner. Decrease using k2tog. Leave the sts on hold.
     
     
    Finishing
     
    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.
     
    Shoulder seams: Turn WS out. Place the right back sts back on the needles and align the sts with the right front sts. Join the pieces: purl together the first sts on the needles and slip them off the needles. Work the 2nd pair of sts in the same manner. Pass the first st on the right-hand needle over the second one. Continue until you run out of sts. Alternatively you can bind off all sts and then sew the shoulder seam. Work the left shoulder in the same manner.
     
     
    Neckline: Place the sts on hold onto the short circular needle and pick up additional sts from the RS of the neckline for 120(120)120(124)124(128) sts in total, 50(50)50(52)52(54) sts from back neckline and 70(70)70(72)72(74) sts from front neckline. Work ribbing in the round for 1,5 cm. Bind off in pattern.

    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Here you find size guides for your knitting projects!




     
     




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