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Icicles colourwork socks Novita 7 Veljestä and Korpi

As low as €1.90

Use the slide-coloured Novita 7 Veljestä Korpi yarn together with the single-coloured, regular 7 Veljestä to create the exiting pattern for these socks.
Magazine Novita Syksy 2019 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 38
Skill level Intermediate
Icicles colourwork socks Novita 7 Veljestä and Korpi
Novita 7 Veljestä 100 g-047 lichen
€5.50
Novita 7 Veljestä 100 g-047 lichen
€5.50
Novita 7 Veljestä 100 g-047 lichen
€5.50
Novita double-pointed needles 20 cm-3.5 mm
€3.30
Novita double-pointed needles 20 cm-4.0 mm
€3.30
Novita finishing needles
€1.90

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Icicles colourwork socks Novita 7 Veljestä and Korpi
Icicles colourwork socks Novita 7 Veljestä and Korpi

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€1.90

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N031938
    Pattern details
    Size
    30(38)46 (EUR)

    Yarn demand
    Novita 7 Veljestä
    (047) Lichen 100(150)150 g and
    7 Veljestä Korpi
    (995) Rapids 50(100)100 g

    Needles and other supplies
    Double-pointed needles
    Novita 3½-4 mm (UK 8-9½ / US 4-6) or size needed to obtain gauge.

    If needed use 0,5 mm larger needles for the colourwork sections to avoid a too tight fabric.

    Designer
    Minna Metsänen

    Details

    Using Rapids cast on 52(64)72 sts and divide them onto four needles, 16(20)22 sts on needles I and IV and 10(12)14 sts on needles II and III. The beginning of round is between needles I and IV. Work twisted ribbing in the round for 3(3)4 cm.

    Join Lichen and work 4 rounds in stockinette st.

    Join Rapids and work the first colourwork stripe: alternate 1 st Lichen with 1 st Rapids for 6(8)8 rounds. Use larger needles for the colourwork sections if needed. Then knit 6(8)8 rounds using Lichen. Alternate colourwork stripes [= 6(8)8 rounds] and stockinette st [= 6(8)8 rounds] until you have completed 4(5)5 colourwork stripes. After the last one, work stockinette st using Lichen.

    Note: When the leg measures 8(15)15 cm, begin decreases on needles I and IV. Decrease round: k1, k2tog, work to last 3 sts, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), k1. Repeat the decreases once more every 8 rounds and 4(6)6 times every 4 rounds. 10(12)14 sts on each needle. Keep striping until the leg measures 24(34)35 cm.

    Begin heel flap: using Lichen knit the sts on needle I onto needle IV [= 20(24)28 sts]. Leave the other sts on hold. Turn work and begin reinforced pattern using Rapids:

    Row 1: (WS) slip 1 with yarn in back, purl to end. Turn work.

    Row 2: (RS) *slip 1 with yarn in back, k1*, repeat *-* to end. Turn work.

    Work rows 1-2 10(12)13 times in total [= 20(24)26 rows].

    Work the WS row once more and begin turning the heel: continue the reinforced pattern as established. Work the RS row until 7(9)10 sts remain. Skp, turn work. Slip 1, p6(6)8, p2tog, turn work. Slip 1, work to last 6(8)9 sts, skp. Continue in this manner, decreasing at the ends with 8(8)10 sts in the middle. When only the middle sts remain, divide the sts onto two needles, 4(4)5 sts each. Knit the 4(4)5 right-hand sts. You are now at the midpoint of the heel flap (= beginning of round).

    Using needle I pick up 10(12)14 sts from the left end of the heel flap + 1 st from between the flap and needle II. Using Lichen knit the 4(4)5 heel flap sts and knit the picked-up sts through the back loop. Knit the sts on needles II and III. Using the needle with 4(4)5 sts pick up 10(12)14 sts from the right end + 1 st from between needle III and the heel flap. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop and k4(4)5.

    With these 50(58)68 sts work stockinette st and begin gusset decreases: at the end of needle I, k2tog; at the beginning of needle IV, skp. Repeat the decreases on every 2nd round until 10(12)14 sts remain on each needle.

    Note: After you have completed the gusset decreases knit two colourwork stripes with a Lichen stripe in between. Then use Lichen for the rest of the sock.

    Continue until the sole measures 15(19)25 cm or the sock covers your fifth toe.

    Begin toe decreases: At the end of needles I and III, k2tog, k1; at the beginning of needles II and IV, k1, skp. Decrease as established on every 2nd round until 5(6)7 sts remain on each needle. Then work the decreases on every round.

    When 8 sts remain, break yarn, pull it through the sts and securely weave in.

    Finishing

    Lightly steam the socks.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    vartalon ympärys 108(116)124(132)140(148) cm
    neuleen pituus 55(57)59(61)64(66) cm
    hihan sisäpituus 39(40)41(42)42(43) cm

    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns
    - Twisted ribbing in the round: *k1 through back loop, p1*, repeat *-*.
    - Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all rows.
    - Colourwork in the round: work stockinette stitch

    Using Rapids cast on 52(64)72 sts and divide them onto four needles, 16(20)22 sts on needles I and IV and 10(12)14 sts on needles II and III. The beginning of round is between needles I and IV. Work twisted ribbing in the round for 3(3)4 cm.

    Join Lichen and work 4 rounds in stockinette st.

    Join Rapids and work the first colourwork stripe: alternate 1 st Lichen with 1 st Rapids for 6(8)8 rounds. Use larger needles for the colourwork sections if needed. Then knit 6(8)8 rounds using Lichen. Alternate colourwork stripes [= 6(8)8 rounds] and stockinette st [= 6(8)8 rounds] until you have completed 4(5)5 colourwork stripes. After the last one, work stockinette st using Lichen.

    Note: When the leg measures 8(15)15 cm, begin decreases on needles I and IV. Decrease round: k1, k2tog, work to last 3 sts, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), k1. Repeat the decreases once more every 8 rounds and 4(6)6 times every 4 rounds. 10(12)14 sts on each needle. Keep striping until the leg measures 24(34)35 cm.

    Begin heel flap: using Lichen knit the sts on needle I onto needle IV [= 20(24)28 sts]. Leave the other sts on hold. Turn work and begin reinforced pattern using Rapids:

    Row 1: (WS) slip 1 with yarn in back, purl to end. Turn work.

    Row 2: (RS) *slip 1 with yarn in back, k1*, repeat *-* to end. Turn work.

    Work rows 1-2 10(12)13 times in total [= 20(24)26 rows].

    Work the WS row once more and begin turning the heel: continue the reinforced pattern as established. Work the RS row until 7(9)10 sts remain. Skp, turn work. Slip 1, p6(6)8, p2tog, turn work. Slip 1, work to last 6(8)9 sts, skp. Continue in this manner, decreasing at the ends with 8(8)10 sts in the middle. When only the middle sts remain, divide the sts onto two needles, 4(4)5 sts each. Knit the 4(4)5 right-hand sts. You are now at the midpoint of the heel flap (= beginning of round).

    Using needle I pick up 10(12)14 sts from the left end of the heel flap + 1 st from between the flap and needle II. Using Lichen knit the 4(4)5 heel flap sts and knit the picked-up sts through the back loop. Knit the sts on needles II and III. Using the needle with 4(4)5 sts pick up 10(12)14 sts from the right end + 1 st from between needle III and the heel flap. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop and k4(4)5.

    With these 50(58)68 sts work stockinette st and begin gusset decreases: at the end of needle I, k2tog; at the beginning of needle IV, skp. Repeat the decreases on every 2nd round until 10(12)14 sts remain on each needle.

    Note: After you have completed the gusset decreases knit two colourwork stripes with a Lichen stripe in between. Then use Lichen for the rest of the sock.

    Continue until the sole measures 15(19)25 cm or the sock covers your fifth toe.

    Begin toe decreases: At the end of needles I and III, k2tog, k1; at the beginning of needles II and IV, k1, skp. Decrease as established on every 2nd round until 5(6)7 sts remain on each needle. Then work the decreases on every round.

    When 8 sts remain, break yarn, pull it through the sts and securely weave in.

    Finishing

    Lightly steam the socks.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

    With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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