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Hyvä olo sweater Novita Baby Merino

As low as €6.90

A comfy, soft feelgood sweater in fingering-weight Novita Baby Merino. The sweater features dolman sleeves and it's worked in the round top-down.
Magazine Novita Kesäextra 2020 (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 1
Skill level Intermediate
Hyvä olo sweater Novita Baby Merino
Novita double-pointed 20 cm birch -3.0 mm
€6.90

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Hyvä olo sweater Novita Baby Merino
Hyvä olo sweater Novita Baby Merino

In stock

€6.90

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N02X201
    Pattern details
    Size
    XS(S)M/L(XL)

    Yarn demand
    Novita Baby Merino
    (326) Silver Willow  300(350)400(450) g


    Needles and other supplies
    Circular needles (40 cm / 16 in) Novita 3 mm (UK 11 / US 2½) and 3½ mm (US 4) or sizes needed;
    3½ mm circular needle (80 cm / 32 in);
    3 mm double-pointed needles for the sleeves

    Designer
    Sari Nordlund

    Details
    Using the smaller 40 cm needles cast on 126(130)134(138) sts, place marker for beginning of round and work ribbing in the round for 9 cm.
     
    Switch to the larger needles and knit 1 round.
     
    Work stockinette st and begin short rows:
     
    Round 1: work 31(32)33(34) sts, increase 1 st (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), place marker, k1 (midpoint of right shoulder line), place marker, increase 1 st, k2, turn work, yarn over = 128(132)136(140) sts.
     
    Round 2: (WS) slip 1 and tighten the yarn in the back of the work so the loops of slipped st and yo come over the needle (= double stitch), purl to marker, increase 1 st (purl the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), slip marker, p1, slip marker, increase 1 st, work to beginning of round marker, slip marker, p31(32)33(34), increase 1 st, place marker, p1 (midpoint of left shoulder line), place marker, increase 1 st, p2, turn work, yarn over = 132(136)140(144) sts.
     
    Round 3: (RS) double stitch, knit to marker, increase 1 st (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), slip marker, k1, slip marker, increase 1 st, work to beginning of round marker, slip marker, knit to marker, increase 1 st, slip marker, k1, slip marker, increase 1 st, work to double stitch, work double st as if to k2tog, k2, turn work, yarn over = 136(140)144(148) sts.
     
    Round 4: (WS) double stitch, purl to marker, increase 1 st (purl the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), slip marker, p1, slip marker, increase 1 st, work to beginning of round marker, slip marker, purl to marker, increase 1 st, slip marker, p1, slip marker, increase 1 st, work to double stitch, work double st as if to p2tog, p2, turn work, yarn over = 140(144)148(152) sts.
     
    Repeat rows 3-4 9(9)10(11) more times [18(18)20(22 rows]. 4 sts increased each time, 212(216)228(240) sts now on the needles.
     
    Round 5: (RS) double stitch, knit to marker, increase 1 st (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), slip marker, k1, slip marker, increase 1 st, work to beginning of round marker = 214(218)230(242) sts.
     
    Work stockinette st in the round. On the first round knit the legs of the double stitch together and continue increases on both sides of the shoulder line: *knit to marker, increase 1 st (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), slip marker, k1, slip marker, increase 1 st*, repeat *-* once and knit to end of round. 4 sts increased, 218(222)234(246) sts on the needles.
     
    Work the increases on every round until there are 506(526)550(578) sts in total: 1 st at each shoulder line, 252(262)274(288) sts each on the front and back.
     
    On the next round bind off the shoulder line sts at both ends for the armholes: work to marker, bind off the st between the markers, knit the front sts, bind off the st between the markers and work to end. Now work stockinette st flat with the back sts until the armhole measures 10(10)11(12) cm. Break yarn.
     
    Work stockinette st flat with the front sts until the armhole measures 10(10)11(12) cm. Finish on a RS row. Place marker, cast on 1 st at the side, place marker, work to the midpoint of the back piece (marker for beginning of round).
     
    On the next round work to last 2 back sts, k2tog, place marker, cast on 1 st, place marker, skp (slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over). Knit to last 2 front sts, k2tog, slip marker, k1, slip marker, skp, work to end of round = 502(522)546(574) sts; 1 st at both sides, 250(260)272(286) sts each on the front and back.
     
    Work the side decreases as established on all rounds 66(66)65(65) more times = 238(258)286(314) sts; 1 st at both shoulder lines, 118(128)142(156) sts each on the front and back.
     
    Work stockinette st in the round until the piece measures 54(56)59(62) cm at the middle back.
     
    Switch to the smaller needles and work ribbing in the round for 3 cm. Loosely bind off in pattern.
     
     
    Cuffs
     
    Using the smaller needles pick up 66(66)72(78) sts from the sleeve opening. Use either the Magic Loop technique or double-pointed needles.
     
    Work ribbing in the round for 17(17)18(19) cm, then loosely bind off in pattern. Knit the other cuff in the same manner.
     
     
    Finishing
     
    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry, or steam and shape.
    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    body circumference at hem 84(92)102(112) cm / 33(36¼)40¼(44) in
    width at armhole 90(94)98(102) cm / 35½(37)38½(40¼) in
    middle back length 57(59)62(65) cm / 22½(23¼)24½(25½) in


    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns
    - Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all rows.
    - Stockinette stitch: knit the right side rows and purl the wrong side rows.
    - Ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*

    Using the smaller 40 cm needles cast on 126(130)134(138) sts, place marker for beginning of round and work ribbing in the round for 9 cm.
     
    Switch to the larger needles and knit 1 round.
     
    Work stockinette st and begin short rows:
     
    Round 1: work 31(32)33(34) sts, increase 1 st (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), place marker, k1 (midpoint of right shoulder line), place marker, increase 1 st, k2, turn work, yarn over = 128(132)136(140) sts.
     
    Round 2: (WS) slip 1 and tighten the yarn in the back of the work so the loops of slipped st and yo come over the needle (= double stitch), purl to marker, increase 1 st (purl the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), slip marker, p1, slip marker, increase 1 st, work to beginning of round marker, slip marker, p31(32)33(34), increase 1 st, place marker, p1 (midpoint of left shoulder line), place marker, increase 1 st, p2, turn work, yarn over = 132(136)140(144) sts.
     
    Round 3: (RS) double stitch, knit to marker, increase 1 st (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), slip marker, k1, slip marker, increase 1 st, work to beginning of round marker, slip marker, knit to marker, increase 1 st, slip marker, k1, slip marker, increase 1 st, work to double stitch, work double st as if to k2tog, k2, turn work, yarn over = 136(140)144(148) sts.
     
    Round 4: (WS) double stitch, purl to marker, increase 1 st (purl the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), slip marker, p1, slip marker, increase 1 st, work to beginning of round marker, slip marker, purl to marker, increase 1 st, slip marker, p1, slip marker, increase 1 st, work to double stitch, work double st as if to p2tog, p2, turn work, yarn over = 140(144)148(152) sts.
     
    Repeat rows 3-4 9(9)10(11) more times [18(18)20(22 rows]. 4 sts increased each time, 212(216)228(240) sts now on the needles.
     
    Round 5: (RS) double stitch, knit to marker, increase 1 st (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), slip marker, k1, slip marker, increase 1 st, work to beginning of round marker = 214(218)230(242) sts.
     
    Work stockinette st in the round. On the first round knit the legs of the double stitch together and continue increases on both sides of the shoulder line: *knit to marker, increase 1 st (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), slip marker, k1, slip marker, increase 1 st*, repeat *-* once and knit to end of round. 4 sts increased, 218(222)234(246) sts on the needles.
     
    Work the increases on every round until there are 506(526)550(578) sts in total: 1 st at each shoulder line, 252(262)274(288) sts each on the front and back.
     
    On the next round bind off the shoulder line sts at both ends for the armholes: work to marker, bind off the st between the markers, knit the front sts, bind off the st between the markers and work to end. Now work stockinette st flat with the back sts until the armhole measures 10(10)11(12) cm. Break yarn.
     
    Work stockinette st flat with the front sts until the armhole measures 10(10)11(12) cm. Finish on a RS row. Place marker, cast on 1 st at the side, place marker, work to the midpoint of the back piece (marker for beginning of round).
     
    On the next round work to last 2 back sts, k2tog, place marker, cast on 1 st, place marker, skp (slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over). Knit to last 2 front sts, k2tog, slip marker, k1, slip marker, skp, work to end of round = 502(522)546(574) sts; 1 st at both sides, 250(260)272(286) sts each on the front and back.
     
    Work the side decreases as established on all rounds 66(66)65(65) more times = 238(258)286(314) sts; 1 st at both shoulder lines, 118(128)142(156) sts each on the front and back.
     
    Work stockinette st in the round until the piece measures 54(56)59(62) cm at the middle back.
     
    Switch to the smaller needles and work ribbing in the round for 3 cm. Loosely bind off in pattern.
     
     
    Cuffs
     
    Using the smaller needles pick up 66(66)72(78) sts from the sleeve opening. Use either the Magic Loop technique or double-pointed needles.
     
    Work ribbing in the round for 17(17)18(19) cm, then loosely bind off in pattern. Knit the other cuff in the same manner.
     
     
    Finishing
     
    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry, or steam and shape.

    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

    With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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