Hygge Wool: Hedda sweater

As low as €6.96

The Hedda sweater, knitted in garter stitch from the chunky Novita Hygge Wool yarn, is a quick and easy knit, ideal for a first sweater project.
Novita Syksy 2020 -lehti (in Finnish)
9
Adventurous beginner
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    €6.96

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    Availability: In stock

    N03209
    Size
    XS/S(M)L(XL)XXL

    Yarn demand
    Novita Hygge Wool
    (075) Fog 1350(1400)1500(1600)1700 g


    Needles and other supplies
    Circular needles (80 cm / 32 in) Novita 8 mm (UK 0 / US 11) and 10 mm (UK 000 / US 15) or sizes needed; 8 mm and 10 mm circular needle (40 cm / 16 in) or double-pointed needles for the sleeves


    Designer
    Sari Nordlund

    Body
    The piece is knitted in the round up to the armholes. Using the smaller circular needle cast on 100(108)116(124)132 sts. Work ribbing in the round: *knit 1, purl 1*, keep repeating *-*.
    When the ribbing measures 5 cm, switch to the larger circular needle. Work garter stitch in the round: *purl 1 round, knit 1 round*, repeat *-*.
    When the piece measures approx. 39(40)41(42)43 cm and you have last worked a purl round, on the next round: knit 50(54)58(62)66, turn work. You are now at the bottom edge of the armhole. Leave the remaining 50(54)58(62)66 sts on hold.
     
    Top back
    Work garter st flat for 35(37)39(41)43 rows (there are 18(19)20(21)22 purl stripes on the right side of the work). Next row: (RS) bind off 14(16)18(19)21 sts, knit the 22(22)22(24)24 neckline sts, bind off the remaining 14(16)18(19)21 shoulder sts. Bind off as follows: Knit 2 and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one. *Knit 1 and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one*, keep repeating *-* until you have bound off the number of sts given. Move the remaining 22 sts on a piece of scrap yarn.
     
    Front
    Place the 50(54)58(62)66 front sts back onto the needles and work garter st flat.
    When the armhole measures 12(13)14(15)16 cm, on the next row: work 32(34)36(39)41 sts, move the previous 14(14)14(16)16 sts (middle sts) on hold on a piece of scrap yarn, work to end. Work one side of the neckline at a time.
    Work in garter st. On right side rows, bind off sts at the neckline edge. On the first time bind off 2 sts: knit 2, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one. Knit 1, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one. Purl 1 row. On the next row bind off 1 st: knit 2 and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one, work to end. Purl 1 row. On the next row bind off 1 st: knit 2 and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one, work to end.  
    With the remaining 14(16)18(19)21 shoulder sts work garter st until there are a total of 36(38)40(42)44 rows in the armhole (18(19)20(21)22 purl stripes on the right side of the work).
    On the next row (RS) bind off the remaining 14(16)18(19)21 shoulder sts. Bind off as established.
    Work the other side as a mirror image.
    Sew the shoulder seams.
     
    Sleeves
    Using the larger double-pointed needles or the 40 cm circular needle, pick up 36(38)40(42)44 sts from the armhole edge. Start at the bottom of the armhole and pick up 1 st from each purl st. *Insert needle, wrap the yarn around the needle, pull it through the st.* Keep repeating *-*.  
    The sleeves are knitted in the round. Purl the first round. Then work garter st in the round.
    When the sleeve measures 35(36)36(37)37 cm and you have last worked a knit round, purl 1 round and at the same time evenly decrease 0(2)2(4)4 sts (purl 2 together). 36(36)38(38)40 sts now on the needles.
    Switch to the smaller needles and work ribbing in the round: *knit 1, purl 1*, keep repeating *-*.
    When the ribbing measures 8 cm, bind off in pattern.
    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
     
    Collar
    Place the 22(22)22(24)24 back neckline sts onto the larger 40 cm circular needle. Pick up 8 additional sts from the edge of the front neckline, move the 14(14)14(16)16 front neckline sts you left on hold back onto the needles, pick up 8 sts from the other edge of the neckline = 52(52)52(56)56 sts.
    The collar is knitted in the round. Purl the first round. Work garter st in the round until the collar measures 24 cm. Bind off loosely.
     
    Finishing
    Weave in all ends. Steam and shape.
    Finished dimensions
    body circumference 106(114)122(130)138 cm / 41¾(45)48(51¼)54¼ in (the sweater is loose-fitting)
    length 58(60)62(64)66 cm / 22¾(23½)24½(25¼)26 in
    inner sleeve length 43(44)44(45)45 cm / 17(17¼)17¼(17¾)17¾ in


    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns Ribbing in the round: *knit 1, purl 1*, keep repeating *-*. Garter stitch in the round: *purl 1 round, knit 1 round*

    Body
    The piece is knitted in the round up to the armholes. Using the smaller circular needle cast on 100(108)116(124)132 sts. Work ribbing in the round: *knit 1, purl 1*, keep repeating *-*.
    When the ribbing measures 5 cm, switch to the larger circular needle. Work garter stitch in the round: *purl 1 round, knit 1 round*, repeat *-*.
    When the piece measures approx. 39(40)41(42)43 cm and you have last worked a purl round, on the next round: knit 50(54)58(62)66, turn work. You are now at the bottom edge of the armhole. Leave the remaining 50(54)58(62)66 sts on hold.
     
    Top back
    Work garter st flat for 35(37)39(41)43 rows (there are 18(19)20(21)22 purl stripes on the right side of the work). Next row: (RS) bind off 14(16)18(19)21 sts, knit the 22(22)22(24)24 neckline sts, bind off the remaining 14(16)18(19)21 shoulder sts. Bind off as follows: Knit 2 and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one. *Knit 1 and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one*, keep repeating *-* until you have bound off the number of sts given. Move the remaining 22 sts on a piece of scrap yarn.
     
    Front
    Place the 50(54)58(62)66 front sts back onto the needles and work garter st flat.
    When the armhole measures 12(13)14(15)16 cm, on the next row: work 32(34)36(39)41 sts, move the previous 14(14)14(16)16 sts (middle sts) on hold on a piece of scrap yarn, work to end. Work one side of the neckline at a time.
    Work in garter st. On right side rows, bind off sts at the neckline edge. On the first time bind off 2 sts: knit 2, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one. Knit 1, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one. Purl 1 row. On the next row bind off 1 st: knit 2 and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one, work to end. Purl 1 row. On the next row bind off 1 st: knit 2 and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one, work to end.  
    With the remaining 14(16)18(19)21 shoulder sts work garter st until there are a total of 36(38)40(42)44 rows in the armhole (18(19)20(21)22 purl stripes on the right side of the work).
    On the next row (RS) bind off the remaining 14(16)18(19)21 shoulder sts. Bind off as established.
    Work the other side as a mirror image.
    Sew the shoulder seams.
     
    Sleeves
    Using the larger double-pointed needles or the 40 cm circular needle, pick up 36(38)40(42)44 sts from the armhole edge. Start at the bottom of the armhole and pick up 1 st from each purl st. *Insert needle, wrap the yarn around the needle, pull it through the st.* Keep repeating *-*.  
    The sleeves are knitted in the round. Purl the first round. Then work garter st in the round.
    When the sleeve measures 35(36)36(37)37 cm and you have last worked a knit round, purl 1 round and at the same time evenly decrease 0(2)2(4)4 sts (purl 2 together). 36(36)38(38)40 sts now on the needles.
    Switch to the smaller needles and work ribbing in the round: *knit 1, purl 1*, keep repeating *-*.
    When the ribbing measures 8 cm, bind off in pattern.
    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
     
    Collar
    Place the 22(22)22(24)24 back neckline sts onto the larger 40 cm circular needle. Pick up 8 additional sts from the edge of the front neckline, move the 14(14)14(16)16 front neckline sts you left on hold back onto the needles, pick up 8 sts from the other edge of the neckline = 52(52)52(56)56 sts.
    The collar is knitted in the round. Purl the first round. Work garter st in the round until the collar measures 24 cm. Bind off loosely.
     
    Finishing
    Weave in all ends. Steam and shape.

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

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