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Hooded cardigan for babies Novita Baby Wool

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The sweater is knitted top-down in one piece. No seams are sewn except the seam on the hood. Knitted with Novita Baby Wool.
Magazine Novita Talvi 2016 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 34
Skill level Intermediate
- +

 

Availability:In stock
SKU N041634
Pattern details
Size
60(70)80 cm

Yarn demand
Novita Baby Wool
(441) Stone 200(250)250 g
Some white and pink for embroidering.

Needles and other supplies
Circular needles (60 cm / 24 in):
Novita 4½ mm (UK 7 / US 7)

Double-pointed needles:
Novita 4½ mm (UK 7 / US 7) or size needed to obtain gauge.

Other supplies:
5 buttons

Designer
Susanna Mertsalmi

Details

Hood

Using the double-pointed needles, cast on 90(92)92 sts and work stockinette st in the round.

When the piece measures 7 cm, work the first 39 sts on the next round, bind off the next 12(14)14 sts for the opening and work to end of round. Continue working stockinette st flat with the 78 sts and bind off 1x2 sts and 6x1 st.at both ends on every other row. Then bind off 2x1 st every 4th row = 58 sts.

When the piece measures 16 cm, begin decreases in the back:

1st decrease row: on a RS row, k25, k2tog, k4, work the skp decrease (= slip 1 knitwise, knit 1, pass the slipped st over), k25 = 56 sts.

Work 3 rows without decreases.

2nd decrease row: on a RS row, k24, k2tog, k4, skp, k24 = 54 sts.

Repeat the decreases on every other row at both sides of the middle 4 sts another 4 times = 46 sts.

Upper bodice

On the next RS row, increase 1 st at both ends and work another WS row = 48 sts. Cast on 2 sts at the end of row and turn work.

Begin increases for the neckline and the raglan sleeves:

1st increase row: on a RS row k3 on the front piece, m1 (make 1 = knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), k1, m1 on the sleeve, k13, m1, k1 on the back piece, m1, k16, m1, k1, m1 on the other sleeve, k13, m1, k1 on the other front piece, m1, k1 and cast on 2 sts at the end of row = 60 sts. Work the WS row, casting on 2 sts at the end of row.

2nd increase row: on the RS row k6 on the front piece, m1, k1, m1 on the sleeve, k15, m1, k1 on the back piece, m1, k18, m1, k1, m1 on the other sleeve, k15, m1, k1 on the other front piece, m1, k4 and cast on 2 sts at the end of row = 72 sts. Work the WS row, casting on 2 sts at the end of row.

3rd increase row: on the RS row k9 on the front piece, m1, k1, m1 on the sleeve, k17, m1, k1 on the back piece, m1, k20, m1, k1, m1 on the other sleeve, k17, m1, k1 on the other front piece, m1, k7 and cast on 2 sts at the end of row = 84 sts. Work the WS row, casting on 4 sts at the end of row.

4th increase row: on the RS row k14 on the front piece, m1, k1, m1 on the sleeve, k19, m1, k1 on the back piece, m1, k22, m1, k1, m1 on the other sleeve, k19, m1, k1 on the other front piece, m1, k10 and cast on 4 sts at the end of row = 100 sts. On the WS row, k4, p92 and k4..

Keep working 4 sts at both ends in garter st (= buttonbands) and continue the raglan increases between the pieces as before. Work the increases on every other row 7(8)10 more times, then 3 times every 4th row and 1 more time every other row. 8 sts increased each time, 188(196)212 sts now on the needles.

When the buttonband measures 5 cm, work the 1st buttonhole 2 sts from the front edge at one end of the piece. Buttonhole: work 2 sts from the front edge, yarn over, knit 2 sts together, work to end. Work 3 more buttonholes at 5(5,5)6 cm intervals.

Note: After the increases, distribute the sts into three groups for the hem and sleeves on the next RS row: work 27(28)30 sts on the front piece, leave the 43(45)49 sleeve sts on hold and cast on 3(5)5 sts in their place, work the 48(50)54 back sts, leave the other 43(45)49 sleeve sts on hold and cast on 3(5)5 sts, work the 27(28)30 sts on the other front piece. Work the WS row. You now have 108(116)124 sts on the front and back pieces.

Hem

Continue working the 108(116)124 sts. Work 4 sts at both ends in garter st and the other sts in stockinette st.

When you have worked for 1 cm, on the next row increase 2 sts at both sides: on a RS row k28(30)32, m1, k1, m1, k50(54)58, m1, k1, m1 and k28(30)32. Keep working the increases before and after the 1 st at both sides. Repeat the increases every 1 cm 3 more times. Then work the increases once more after 2 cm = 128(136)144 sts.

When the hem measures 10(12)14 cm, on the next RS row evenly decrease 15(16)17 sts = 113(120)127 sts.

Work 7 rows in garter st and bind off.

Sleeves

Using the double-pointed needles, pick up and knit the 43(45)49 sts on hold as well as 2(3)3 additional sts from the underarm cast-on = 45(48)52 sts. Distribute the sts onto four needles and work stockinette st in the round. On the first round decrease 1(0)0 st at the underarm = 44(48)52 sts.

When you have worked for 1 cm, decrease 1 st before and after 1 st at the underarm. Repeat the decreases every 2 cm 2(3)4 more times = 38(40)42 sts.

When the sleeve measures 15(18)21 cm, on the next RS row evenly decrease 6(6)8 sts = 32(34)34 sts.

Work garter st for 7 rounds (alternate 1 purl round and 1 knit round) and bind off.

Knit the other sleeve to match.

Finishing

Pin the work to measurements and steam lightly on the wrong side.

Stitch the seam on the hood.

Edge of the hood: Pick up and knit a total of 80(82)84 sts on the RS from the edge of the hood and the neckline on the front pieces. Work garter st. On the first row, work the last buttonhole. When you have worked 5 rows of garter st, bind off.

Attach the buttons. On the top of the hood, embroider a nose with pink yarn and eyes with white yarn.

Pattern instructions
Finished dimensions
body circumference 50(54)58 cm / 19¾(21¼)22¾ in length in the back at midpoint 24(27)30 cm / 9½(10¾)11¾ in inner sleeve length 17(20)23 cm / 6¾(7¾)9 in

Stitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns:
- Stockinette stitch in the round:
knit all rows.
- Stockinette stitch flat:
Right side rows: knit all sts.
Wrong side rows: purl all sts.
- Garter stitch:
knit all rows.

Gauge:
21 sts and 28 rows in stockinette st = 10 cm / 4 in

Note:
The cardigan is knitted top down starting from the hood. See pattern for direction of knitting.

Hood

Using the double-pointed needles, cast on 90(92)92 sts and work stockinette st in the round.

When the piece measures 7 cm, work the first 39 sts on the next round, bind off the next 12(14)14 sts for the opening and work to end of round. Continue working stockinette st flat with the 78 sts and bind off 1x2 sts and 6x1 st.at both ends on every other row. Then bind off 2x1 st every 4th row = 58 sts.

When the piece measures 16 cm, begin decreases in the back:

1st decrease row: on a RS row, k25, k2tog, k4, work the skp decrease (= slip 1 knitwise, knit 1, pass the slipped st over), k25 = 56 sts.

Work 3 rows without decreases.

2nd decrease row: on a RS row, k24, k2tog, k4, skp, k24 = 54 sts.

Repeat the decreases on every other row at both sides of the middle 4 sts another 4 times = 46 sts.

Upper bodice

On the next RS row, increase 1 st at both ends and work another WS row = 48 sts. Cast on 2 sts at the end of row and turn work.

Begin increases for the neckline and the raglan sleeves:

1st increase row: on a RS row k3 on the front piece, m1 (make 1 = knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), k1, m1 on the sleeve, k13, m1, k1 on the back piece, m1, k16, m1, k1, m1 on the other sleeve, k13, m1, k1 on the other front piece, m1, k1 and cast on 2 sts at the end of row = 60 sts. Work the WS row, casting on 2 sts at the end of row.

2nd increase row: on the RS row k6 on the front piece, m1, k1, m1 on the sleeve, k15, m1, k1 on the back piece, m1, k18, m1, k1, m1 on the other sleeve, k15, m1, k1 on the other front piece, m1, k4 and cast on 2 sts at the end of row = 72 sts. Work the WS row, casting on 2 sts at the end of row.

3rd increase row: on the RS row k9 on the front piece, m1, k1, m1 on the sleeve, k17, m1, k1 on the back piece, m1, k20, m1, k1, m1 on the other sleeve, k17, m1, k1 on the other front piece, m1, k7 and cast on 2 sts at the end of row = 84 sts. Work the WS row, casting on 4 sts at the end of row.

4th increase row: on the RS row k14 on the front piece, m1, k1, m1 on the sleeve, k19, m1, k1 on the back piece, m1, k22, m1, k1, m1 on the other sleeve, k19, m1, k1 on the other front piece, m1, k10 and cast on 4 sts at the end of row = 100 sts. On the WS row, k4, p92 and k4..

Keep working 4 sts at both ends in garter st (= buttonbands) and continue the raglan increases between the pieces as before. Work the increases on every other row 7(8)10 more times, then 3 times every 4th row and 1 more time every other row. 8 sts increased each time, 188(196)212 sts now on the needles.

When the buttonband measures 5 cm, work the 1st buttonhole 2 sts from the front edge at one end of the piece. Buttonhole: work 2 sts from the front edge, yarn over, knit 2 sts together, work to end. Work 3 more buttonholes at 5(5,5)6 cm intervals.

Note: After the increases, distribute the sts into three groups for the hem and sleeves on the next RS row: work 27(28)30 sts on the front piece, leave the 43(45)49 sleeve sts on hold and cast on 3(5)5 sts in their place, work the 48(50)54 back sts, leave the other 43(45)49 sleeve sts on hold and cast on 3(5)5 sts, work the 27(28)30 sts on the other front piece. Work the WS row. You now have 108(116)124 sts on the front and back pieces.

Hem

Continue working the 108(116)124 sts. Work 4 sts at both ends in garter st and the other sts in stockinette st.

When you have worked for 1 cm, on the next row increase 2 sts at both sides: on a RS row k28(30)32, m1, k1, m1, k50(54)58, m1, k1, m1 and k28(30)32. Keep working the increases before and after the 1 st at both sides. Repeat the increases every 1 cm 3 more times. Then work the increases once more after 2 cm = 128(136)144 sts.

When the hem measures 10(12)14 cm, on the next RS row evenly decrease 15(16)17 sts = 113(120)127 sts.

Work 7 rows in garter st and bind off.

Sleeves

Using the double-pointed needles, pick up and knit the 43(45)49 sts on hold as well as 2(3)3 additional sts from the underarm cast-on = 45(48)52 sts. Distribute the sts onto four needles and work stockinette st in the round. On the first round decrease 1(0)0 st at the underarm = 44(48)52 sts.

When you have worked for 1 cm, decrease 1 st before and after 1 st at the underarm. Repeat the decreases every 2 cm 2(3)4 more times = 38(40)42 sts.

When the sleeve measures 15(18)21 cm, on the next RS row evenly decrease 6(6)8 sts = 32(34)34 sts.

Work garter st for 7 rounds (alternate 1 purl round and 1 knit round) and bind off.

Knit the other sleeve to match.

Finishing

Pin the work to measurements and steam lightly on the wrong side.

Stitch the seam on the hood.

Edge of the hood: Pick up and knit a total of 80(82)84 sts on the RS from the edge of the hood and the neckline on the front pieces. Work garter st. On the first row, work the last buttonhole. When you have worked 5 rows of garter st, bind off.

Attach the buttons. On the top of the hood, embroider a nose with pink yarn and eyes with white yarn.


Skill levels

Beginner

Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

Technique

Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

Patterns

All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

Adventurous beginner

Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

Technique

Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

Patterns

Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

Intermediate

So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

Technique

In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

Patterns

Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

Advanced

Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

Technique

On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

Patterns

Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

Gauge & Swatching

Gauge and Swatching

Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

Adjusting gauge

If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

Size charts

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