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Helli cardigan Novita Hygge Wool

Helli cardigan Novita Hygge Wool

As low as €1.90

This loose, comfy cardigan is perfect to slip into on a cold winter day.
Magazine Novita Kevät 2020 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 26
Skill level Intermediate
Helli cardigan Novita Hygge Wool
€6.50
€6.50
€6.50
€6.50
€6.50
Novita double-pointed needles 20 cm-8.0 mm
€3.30
Novita crochet hook 15 cm -7.0 mm
€2.10
Novita Finishing Needle 2 pcs
€1.90

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Helli cardigan Novita Hygge Wool
Helli cardigan Novita Hygge Wool

In stock

€1.90

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N012026
    Pattern details
    Size
    XS(S)M/L(XL)XXL

    Yarn demand
    Novita Hygge Wool
    (024) Wheat 950(1000)1050(1100)1150 g

    Needles and other supplies
    Circular needles (80 cm / 32 in) and
    double-pointed needles (for the sleeves,
    if you don’t use the Magic Loop technique) 8 mm (UK 0 / US 11) and 10 mm (UK 000 / US 15) https://www.novitaknits.com/fi/fi/tutorials/villasukan-neulominen/magic-loop-tekniikka-eli-luuppaus

    Crochet hook
    7 mm (UK 2) for the belt loops

    Designer
    Sari Nordlund

    Details

    Using the larger circular needle cast on 27(27)27(31)31 sts. Work stockinette st flat as follows:

    Row 1: (WS) p1, place marker (= right front raglan), p6(6)6(7)7, place marker (= right back raglan), p13(13)13(15)15, place marker (= left back raglan), p6(6)6(7)7, place marker (= left front raglan), p1.

    Row 2: (RS) kfb (= knit front and back), slip marker, *kfb, knit to last st before next marker, kfb, slip marker*, repeat *–* 2 more times, kfb. 8 sts increased, 35(35)35(39)39 sts on the needles.

    Row 3: (WS) purl all stitches, slipping markers.

    Row 4: k1, kfb, slip marker, *kfb, knit to last st before next marker, kfb, slip marker*, repeat *–* 2 more times, kfb, k1. 8 sts increased, 43(43)43(47)47 sts on the needles.

    Row 5: (WS) purl all stitches, slipping markers.

    Row 6: *kfb, knit to last st before next marker, kfb, slip marker*, repeat *–* 3 more times, kfb, kfb, k1. 10 sts increased, 53(53)53(57)57 sts on the needles.

    Row 7: (WS) purl all stitches, slipping markers.

    Row 8: knit to last st before next marker, kfb, slip marker, *kfb, knit to last st before next marker, kfb, slip marker*, repeat *–* 2 more times, kfb, knit to end. 8 sts increased, 61(61)61(65)65 sts on the needles.

    Row 9: (WS) purl all stitches, slipping markers.

    Row 10: *kfb, knit to last st before next marker, kfb, slip marker*, repeat *–* 3 more times, kfb, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, k1. 10 sts increased, 71(71)71(75)75 sts on the needles.

    Size XS: Work rows 7–10 three times, rows 9–10 once, and rows 7–8 two times.

    Sizes S and M/L: Work rows 7–10 four times and rows 7–8 two times.

    Sizes XL and XXL: Work rows 7–10 four times, rows 9–10 once, and rows 7–8 two times.

    151(159)159(173)173 now on the needles: 21(22)22(24)24 sts in the front pieces, 34(36)36(39)39 sts in the sleeves and 41(43)43(47)47 sts in the back.

    On the next RS row: work to marker, remove marker, leave the 34(36)36(39)39 sleeve sts on hold, cast on 2(4)7(7)9 for an armhole, remove marker, knit the 41(43)43(47)47 back sts, remove marker, leave the 34(36)36(39)39 sleeve sts on hold, cast on 2(4)7(7)9 sts for the armhole, remove marker, work to end. 87(95)101(109)113 sts on the front and back pieces.

    Body

    Work stockinette st flat with the front and back sts.

    When the side measures 18(17)18(19)21 cm from the armhole, switch to the smaller needles and begin ribbing on the WS with k1.

    Work ribbing for 5 cm, then bind off in pattern.

    Border

    Pick up and knit sts from the edges using the smaller needles. Begin at the right bottom edge and pick up 1 st per 1 row of ribbing and 3 sts per 4 rows of stockinette st. At the neckline pick up 1 st per each st on the cast-on edge. Pick up sts along the left front piece as established.

    Work 5 cm in garter st and bind off.

    Sleeves

    Using the larger needles, begin at the midpoint of the armhole cast-on and pick up 2(2)3(4)4 sts from the left side and 1 st from between the cast-on edge and the sleeve sts. Place the 34(36)36(39)39 sleeve sts onto the needles. Pick up 1 st from between the sleeve and the cast-on edge and 2(2)3(3)3 sts from the right side. 40(42)44(48)48 sts now on the needles. The beginning of round is at the midpoint of the armhole. Work stockinette st in the round. Use either the Magic Loop technique or double-pointed needles.

    On the next round: k1, k2tog, work stockinette st to last 3 sts, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), k1 = 38(40)42(46)46 sts.

    When the sleeve measures 36(37)38(38)39 cm, on the next round k1(0)1(1)1, *k2tog*, repeat *–*, k1(0)1(1)1 = 20(20)22(24)24 sts.

    Switch to the smaller needles and work ribbing in the round for 8 cm. Bind off in pattern.

    Finishing

    Steam the cardigan lightly.

    Belt: Using the smaller needles, cast on 8 sts and work garter st. When the belt measures approx. 140(145)150(155)160 cm, bind off.

    Crochet 2 approx. 7 cm long lines of chain stitches for the belt loops. Place them at the sides, right below the armholes.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    body circumference 100(108)116(124)132 cm / 39¼(42½)45¾(48¾)52 in (the cardigan is loose-fitting) middle back length 46(47)48(50)52 cm / 18(18½)19(19¾)20½ in inner sleeve length 44(45)46(46)47 cm / 17¼(17¾)18(18)18½ in

    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns
    - Stockinette stitch: knit the right side rows and purl the wrong side rows.
    - Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all rows.
    - Ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*, repeat *–*.
    - Ribbing: *k1, p1*, repeat *–*. On the wrong side rows, knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts.
    - Garter stitch: knit all rows.

    Gauge
    9 sts and 12 rows in stockinette st with larger needles = 10 cm / 4 in

    Note
    The cardigan is knitted in one piece from neckline to hem, with short underarm seams.


    Using the larger circular needle cast on 27(27)27(31)31 sts. Work stockinette st flat as follows:

    Row 1: (WS) p1, place marker (= right front raglan), p6(6)6(7)7, place marker (= right back raglan), p13(13)13(15)15, place marker (= left back raglan), p6(6)6(7)7, place marker (= left front raglan), p1.

    Row 2: (RS) kfb (= knit front and back), slip marker, *kfb, knit to last st before next marker, kfb, slip marker*, repeat *–* 2 more times, kfb. 8 sts increased, 35(35)35(39)39 sts on the needles.

    Row 3: (WS) purl all stitches, slipping markers.

    Row 4: k1, kfb, slip marker, *kfb, knit to last st before next marker, kfb, slip marker*, repeat *–* 2 more times, kfb, k1. 8 sts increased, 43(43)43(47)47 sts on the needles.

    Row 5: (WS) purl all stitches, slipping markers.

    Row 6: *kfb, knit to last st before next marker, kfb, slip marker*, repeat *–* 3 more times, kfb, kfb, k1. 10 sts increased, 53(53)53(57)57 sts on the needles.

    Row 7: (WS) purl all stitches, slipping markers.

    Row 8: knit to last st before next marker, kfb, slip marker, *kfb, knit to last st before next marker, kfb, slip marker*, repeat *–* 2 more times, kfb, knit to end. 8 sts increased, 61(61)61(65)65 sts on the needles.

    Row 9: (WS) purl all stitches, slipping markers.

    Row 10: *kfb, knit to last st before next marker, kfb, slip marker*, repeat *–* 3 more times, kfb, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, k1. 10 sts increased, 71(71)71(75)75 sts on the needles.

    Size XS: Work rows 7–10 three times, rows 9–10 once, and rows 7–8 two times.

    Sizes S and M/L: Work rows 7–10 four times and rows 7–8 two times.

    Sizes XL and XXL: Work rows 7–10 four times, rows 9–10 once, and rows 7–8 two times.

    151(159)159(173)173 now on the needles: 21(22)22(24)24 sts in the front pieces, 34(36)36(39)39 sts in the sleeves and 41(43)43(47)47 sts in the back.

    On the next RS row: work to marker, remove marker, leave the 34(36)36(39)39 sleeve sts on hold, cast on 2(4)7(7)9 for an armhole, remove marker, knit the 41(43)43(47)47 back sts, remove marker, leave the 34(36)36(39)39 sleeve sts on hold, cast on 2(4)7(7)9 sts for the armhole, remove marker, work to end. 87(95)101(109)113 sts on the front and back pieces.

    Body

    Work stockinette st flat with the front and back sts.

    When the side measures 18(17)18(19)21 cm from the armhole, switch to the smaller needles and begin ribbing on the WS with k1.

    Work ribbing for 5 cm, then bind off in pattern.

    Border

    Pick up and knit sts from the edges using the smaller needles. Begin at the right bottom edge and pick up 1 st per 1 row of ribbing and 3 sts per 4 rows of stockinette st. At the neckline pick up 1 st per each st on the cast-on edge. Pick up sts along the left front piece as established.

    Work 5 cm in garter st and bind off.

    Sleeves

    Using the larger needles, begin at the midpoint of the armhole cast-on and pick up 2(2)3(4)4 sts from the left side and 1 st from between the cast-on edge and the sleeve sts. Place the 34(36)36(39)39 sleeve sts onto the needles. Pick up 1 st from between the sleeve and the cast-on edge and 2(2)3(3)3 sts from the right side. 40(42)44(48)48 sts now on the needles. The beginning of round is at the midpoint of the armhole. Work stockinette st in the round. Use either the Magic Loop technique or double-pointed needles.

    On the next round: k1, k2tog, work stockinette st to last 3 sts, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), k1 = 38(40)42(46)46 sts.

    When the sleeve measures 36(37)38(38)39 cm, on the next round k1(0)1(1)1, *k2tog*, repeat *–*, k1(0)1(1)1 = 20(20)22(24)24 sts.

    Switch to the smaller needles and work ribbing in the round for 8 cm. Bind off in pattern.

    Finishing

    Steam the cardigan lightly.

    Belt: Using the smaller needles, cast on 8 sts and work garter st. When the belt measures approx. 140(145)150(155)160 cm, bind off.

    Crochet 2 approx. 7 cm long lines of chain stitches for the belt loops. Place them at the sides, right below the armholes.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

    With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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