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Heili dress Novita Wool Cotton

Heili dress Novita Wool Cotton

As low as €1.90

This dress has an air of simple elegance, making it fit for any occasion, be it a day at the beach or a summer party.
Magazine Novita Kesä 2020 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 27
Skill level Beginner

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Heili dress Novita Wool Cotton
Heili dress Novita Wool Cotton

In stock

€1.90

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N022027
    Pattern details
    Size
    S(M)L(XL)XXL

    Yarn demand
    Novita Wool Cotton
    (010) Off White 750(800)850(900)950 g


    Needles and other supplies
    Circular needles
    (80 cm / 32 in; 40 cm / 16 in) Novita 3½ mm (US 4) and 4 mm (UK 8 / US 6) or sizes needed to obtain gauge
     


    Designer
    Sari Nordlund

    Details
    Using the smaller circular needle cast on 352(368)386(404)422 sts, place marker for beginning of round and work stockinette st in the round for 3 cm. Purl 1 round for folding.
     
    Switch to the larger needles and work stockinette st in the round.
     
    When the piece measures 4(5)4(6)5 cm from the fold round, work the first 176(184)193(202)211 sts, place side marker, work to end of round. 176(184)193(202)211 sts each on the front and back pieces.
     
    On the next round begin decreasing at the sides: *knit 2, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, knit 1, pass the slipped st over), work to last 4 sts before next marker, knit 2 sts together, knit 2*, repeat *–* once more. 4 sts decreased. Repeat the decreases every 2 cm 41 more times = 184(200)218(236)254 sts. 92(100)109(118)127 sts each on the front and back pieces.
     
    When the piece measures 87(88)87(89)88 cm from the fold round, *work stockinette st to last 3(4)5(7)9 sts before marker, bind off the next 6(8)10(14)18 sts and remove marker*, repeat *–* once more. Bind off as follows: Work 2 sts and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one. *Knit 1 and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one.* Repeat *–* until you have bound off the number of sts given.
     
    86(92)99(104)109 sts each on the front and back pieces. Leave the front sts on hold and knit the top back section next.
     
     
    Top back
     
    Work stockinette st flat with the 86(92)99(104)109 back sts and begin decreases: (RS) k2, skp, work to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. Repeat the decreases every 2nd row 2(4)6(7)7 more times = 80(82)85(88)93 sts.
     
    When the armhole measures 17(18)19(19)20 cm, bind off the middle 36(36)37(38)39 sts for the neckline. Work one side at a time. After 2 rows bind off 2 sts at the neckline edge: Knit 2, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one. *Knit 1 and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one.* Repeat *–* once. You need to decrease at the beginning of row when working flat.
     
    When the armhole measures 19(20)21(21)22 cm, bind off the 20(21)22(23)25 shoulder sts.
     
    Knit the other side in the same manner.
     
     
    Top front
     
    Work stockinette st flat with the 86(92)99(104)109 front sts and begin decreases: (RS) k2, skp, work to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. Repeat the decreases every 2nd row 2(4)6(7)7 more times = 80(82)85(88)93 sts.
     
    When the armhole measures 8(9)10(10)11 cm, bind off the middle 16(16)17(18)19 sts for the neckline. Work one side at a time. On every other row at the neckline edge bind off 2 sts 4 times and 1 st 4 times. Bind off at the beginning of row: Knit 2 and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one. *Knit 1 and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one.* Repeat *–* until you have bound off the number of sts given.  
     
    When the armhole measures 19(20)21(21)22 cm, bind off the 20(21)22(23)25 shoulder sts.
     
    Knit the other side in the same manner.
     
     
    Finishing
     
    Sew the shoulder seams.
     
    Neckline: Starting at one of the shoulder seams and using the larger 40 cm circular needle, pick up and knit 40(40)40(42)42 sts from the RS of the back neckline and 60(60)60(64)64 sts from the front neckline = 100(100)100(106)106 sts. Work stockinette st in the round for 2 cm, then purl 1 round for folding. Switch to the smaller 40 cm circular needle and work stockinette st in the round for 2 cm. Bind off loosely.
     
    Fold the border once and sew the bind-off edge to the WS.
     
    Armhole border: Starting at the bottom of the armhole and using the larger 40 cm circular needle, pick up sts from the RS, 38(40)43(43)45 sts from both pieces = 76(80)86(86)90 sts. Work stockinette st in the round for 2 cm, then purl 1 round for folding. Switch to the smaller 40 cm circular needle and work stockinette st in the round for 2 cm. Bind off loosely. Fold the border once and sew the bind-off edge to the WS.
     
    Knit the other armhole border in the same manner.
     
    Fold the hem once and sew the cast-on edge loosely to the WS.
     
    Weave in all ends. Steam and shape.
    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    body circumference below armhole 84(92)100(108)116 cm / 33(36¼)39¼(42½)45¾ in
    hem circumference 160(168)176(184)192 cm / 63(66¼)69¼(72½)75½ in
    length 106(108)108(110)110 cm / 41¾(42½)42½(43¼)43¼ in


    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns
    - Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all rows.
    - Stockinette stitch: knit the right side rows and purl the wrong side rows.
     
    Gauge
    22 sts in stockinette st with larger needles = 10 cm / 4 in
     


    Using the smaller circular needle cast on 352(368)386(404)422 sts, place marker for beginning of round and work stockinette st in the round for 3 cm. Purl 1 round for folding.
     
    Switch to the larger needles and work stockinette st in the round.
     
    When the piece measures 4(5)4(6)5 cm from the fold round, work the first 176(184)193(202)211 sts, place side marker, work to end of round. 176(184)193(202)211 sts each on the front and back pieces.
     
    On the next round begin decreasing at the sides: *knit 2, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, knit 1, pass the slipped st over), work to last 4 sts before next marker, knit 2 sts together, knit 2*, repeat *–* once more. 4 sts decreased. Repeat the decreases every 2 cm 41 more times = 184(200)218(236)254 sts. 92(100)109(118)127 sts each on the front and back pieces.
     
    When the piece measures 87(88)87(89)88 cm from the fold round, *work stockinette st to last 3(4)5(7)9 sts before marker, bind off the next 6(8)10(14)18 sts and remove marker*, repeat *–* once more. Bind off as follows: Work 2 sts and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one. *Knit 1 and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one.* Repeat *–* until you have bound off the number of sts given.
     
    86(92)99(104)109 sts each on the front and back pieces. Leave the front sts on hold and knit the top back section next.
     
     
    Top back
     
    Work stockinette st flat with the 86(92)99(104)109 back sts and begin decreases: (RS) k2, skp, work to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. Repeat the decreases every 2nd row 2(4)6(7)7 more times = 80(82)85(88)93 sts.
     
    When the armhole measures 17(18)19(19)20 cm, bind off the middle 36(36)37(38)39 sts for the neckline. Work one side at a time. After 2 rows bind off 2 sts at the neckline edge: Knit 2, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one. *Knit 1 and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one.* Repeat *–* once. You need to decrease at the beginning of row when working flat.
     
    When the armhole measures 19(20)21(21)22 cm, bind off the 20(21)22(23)25 shoulder sts.
     
    Knit the other side in the same manner.
     
     
    Top front
     
    Work stockinette st flat with the 86(92)99(104)109 front sts and begin decreases: (RS) k2, skp, work to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. Repeat the decreases every 2nd row 2(4)6(7)7 more times = 80(82)85(88)93 sts.
     
    When the armhole measures 8(9)10(10)11 cm, bind off the middle 16(16)17(18)19 sts for the neckline. Work one side at a time. On every other row at the neckline edge bind off 2 sts 4 times and 1 st 4 times. Bind off at the beginning of row: Knit 2 and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one. *Knit 1 and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one.* Repeat *–* until you have bound off the number of sts given.  
     
    When the armhole measures 19(20)21(21)22 cm, bind off the 20(21)22(23)25 shoulder sts.
     
    Knit the other side in the same manner.
     
     
    Finishing
     
    Sew the shoulder seams.
     
    Neckline: Starting at one of the shoulder seams and using the larger 40 cm circular needle, pick up and knit 40(40)40(42)42 sts from the RS of the back neckline and 60(60)60(64)64 sts from the front neckline = 100(100)100(106)106 sts. Work stockinette st in the round for 2 cm, then purl 1 round for folding. Switch to the smaller 40 cm circular needle and work stockinette st in the round for 2 cm. Bind off loosely.
     
    Fold the border once and sew the bind-off edge to the WS.
     
    Armhole border: Starting at the bottom of the armhole and using the larger 40 cm circular needle, pick up sts from the RS, 38(40)43(43)45 sts from both pieces = 76(80)86(86)90 sts. Work stockinette st in the round for 2 cm, then purl 1 round for folding. Switch to the smaller 40 cm circular needle and work stockinette st in the round for 2 cm. Bind off loosely. Fold the border once and sew the bind-off edge to the WS.
     
    Knit the other armhole border in the same manner.
     
    Fold the hem once and sew the cast-on edge loosely to the WS.
     
    Weave in all ends. Steam and shape.

    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Here you find size guides for your knitting projects!




     
     




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