Happy With Hygge Sweater (kids)

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Keep your loved ones warm and cosy. This super-easy yoke sweater comes in sizes from 110 to 150 cm. Choose your favourite colour or combine as many as you like!

Online pattern
Beginner

Availability: Out of stock

NONL202302
Size
110(120)130(140)150 cm

Yarn demand

Novita Hygge Wool 

500(550)600(650)700 g 



Needles and other supplies

Needles  

Circular needles (40 cm / 16 in): Novita 8 mm (UK 0 / US 11) and 10 mm (UK 000 / US 15)  

Circular needles (60 cm / 24 in): Novita 10 mm 

Double-pointed needles: Novita 8 mm and 10 mm 

Other supplies Stitch marker, scrap yarn or stitch holders, tapestry needle 



Designer
Jaana Etula

Abbreviations 

p = purl 

k = knit 

st(s) = stitch(es) 

k2tog = knit 2 sts together 

Techniques 

Increase: Knit the right loop of the stitch below the next stitch, then proceed as instructed without dropping the stitch off the needle. 

Collar 

Using the 8 mm circular needle, loosely cast on 38(38)40(40)42 sts and join for working in the round. Place marker for beginning of round and begin 1x1 ribbing. Slip the marker when you come to it. Choose your preferred type of collar: 

Low collar: Work ribbing for 5 rounds. 

High collar: Work ribbing for 8(8)8(10)10 rounds. 

Yoke 

Switch to the shorter 10 mm circular needle. Knit 3 rounds; on the second round, evenly increase 2(4)4(6)6 sts = 40(42)44(46)48 sts (see Techniques). 

Work stockinette st and keep increasing as follows (switch to the longer circular needle when you need to): 

Next round: *increase 1, work 2 sts*, repeat *–* to end of round = 60(63)66(69)72 sts. 

Knit 4(5)5(6)6 rounds. 

Next round: *increase 1, work 3 sts*, repeat *–* to end of round = 80(84)88(92)96 sts. 

Knit 5(5)6(6)7 rounds. 

Next round: *increase 1, work 4 sts*, repeat *–* to end of round. Note: For sizes 120 and 140, make an additional increase at the end of round. 100(106)110(116)120 sts on the needles. 

Knit 3(3)3(4)4 rounds.  

On the next round, place markers on both sides of the sleeve sts: k15(16)16(17)18, place marker (= back of right sleeve), k21(22)23(24)24, place marker (= front of right sleeve), k29(31)32(34)36, place marker (= front of left sleeve), k21(22)23(24)24, place marker (= back of left sleeve), k14(15)16(17)18. 

The beginning of round is at the back midpoint. 

The back neckline is now shaped with short rows. You can also omit these: knit 1 more round instead, then go to Body

Short rows: 

Row 1: Knit to marker (front of right sleeve), turn work. Slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front and tighten the yarn in the back so the loops of the slipped st come over the needle = double stitch. Purl to beginning of round. 

Row 2: Purl to marker (front of left sleeve), turn work. Make a double stitch. Knit to beginning of round. 

Row 3: Knit to marker (back of right sleeve), turn work. Make a double stitch. Purl to beginning of round. 

Row 4: Purl to marker (back of left sleeve), turn work. Make a double stitch. Knit to beginning of round. 

Knit 1 round with all sts. Knit the loops of each double st together to maintain the number of sts. 

Body 

Separate the sleeves: work 15(16)16(17)18 back sts, leave 21(22)23(24)24 sleeve sts on hold, cast on 2(2)3(4)4 sts at the underarm, work 29(31)32(34)36 front sts, leave 21(22)23(24)24 sleeve sts on hold, cast on 2(2)3(4)4 sts at the underarm, work 14(15)16(17)18 back sts = 62(66)70(76)80 sts 

Remove the beginning of round marker. Knit to midpoint of right armhole cast-on and place marker for beginning of round. If you have an odd number of sts in the underarm, place the marker next to the midpoint. 

Work stockinette st until the piece measures 21(22)24(26)28 cm from the armhole (or desired length). Work ribbing for 5(5)5(7)7 rounds and bind off in pattern. Note: Use the 8 mm needles if you prefer a tighter ribbing in the hem. 

Sleeves 

Place the 21(22)23(24)24 sleeve sts onto the larger double-pointed needles. Pick up and knit 1 st from between the sleeve sts and the underarm cast-on, 2(2)3(4)4 sts from the cast-on, and 1 st from between the cast-on and the sleeve sts = 25(26)28(30)30 sts. 

Work stockinette st in the round; on the next round, decrease the extra sts you picked up on both sides of the cast-on by k2tog = 23(24)26(28)28 sts. 

Place marker at the midpoint of the underarm and work stockinette st. When the sleeve measures 7(6)7(5)7 cm, k2tog at the beginning of the next round and work to end. Repeat the decrease every 7(6)7(5)7 cm 2(3)3(5)3 more times. Note: Decrease alternately at the beginning and end of round. 20(20)22(22)24 sts on the needles after the decreases. 

When the sleeve measures 25(27)30(32)35 cm from the underarm (or desired length), switch to the 8 mm double-pointed needles and work 5(5)5(7)7 rounds in 1x1 ribbing. Bind off in pattern. 

Finishing 

Weave in ends. Carefully steam the garment and allow to dry flat. 

Finished dimensions

Finished dimensions 

body circumference 70(74)78(84)88 cm / 27½(29¼)30¾(33)34¾ in 

middle front length (without collar) 39(41)44(48)51 cm / 15¼(16¼)17¼(19)20 in 

inner sleeve length 29(31)34(37)40 cm / 11½(12¼)13½(14½)15¾ in 



Stitch patterns & gauge

Stitch patterns Ribbing in the round: *knit 1, purl 1*, repeat *–*. Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all rows. Stockinette stitch (flat): knit the right side rows and purl the wrong side rows. 

Gauge 9 sts and 14 rows in stockinette st with larger needles (steamed lightly) = 10 cm / 4 in 

Note The sweater is knitted top-down and in the round.  



Abbreviations 

p = purl 

k = knit 

st(s) = stitch(es) 

k2tog = knit 2 sts together 

Techniques 

Increase: Knit the right loop of the stitch below the next stitch, then proceed as instructed without dropping the stitch off the needle. 

Collar 

Using the 8 mm circular needle, loosely cast on 38(38)40(40)42 sts and join for working in the round. Place marker for beginning of round and begin 1x1 ribbing. Slip the marker when you come to it. Choose your preferred type of collar: 

Low collar: Work ribbing for 5 rounds. 

High collar: Work ribbing for 8(8)8(10)10 rounds. 

Yoke 

Switch to the shorter 10 mm circular needle. Knit 3 rounds; on the second round, evenly increase 2(4)4(6)6 sts = 40(42)44(46)48 sts (see Techniques). 

Work stockinette st and keep increasing as follows (switch to the longer circular needle when you need to): 

Next round: *increase 1, work 2 sts*, repeat *–* to end of round = 60(63)66(69)72 sts. 

Knit 4(5)5(6)6 rounds. 

Next round: *increase 1, work 3 sts*, repeat *–* to end of round = 80(84)88(92)96 sts. 

Knit 5(5)6(6)7 rounds. 

Next round: *increase 1, work 4 sts*, repeat *–* to end of round. Note: For sizes 120 and 140, make an additional increase at the end of round. 100(106)110(116)120 sts on the needles. 

Knit 3(3)3(4)4 rounds.  

On the next round, place markers on both sides of the sleeve sts: k15(16)16(17)18, place marker (= back of right sleeve), k21(22)23(24)24, place marker (= front of right sleeve), k29(31)32(34)36, place marker (= front of left sleeve), k21(22)23(24)24, place marker (= back of left sleeve), k14(15)16(17)18. 

The beginning of round is at the back midpoint. 

The back neckline is now shaped with short rows. You can also omit these: knit 1 more round instead, then go to Body

Short rows: 

Row 1: Knit to marker (front of right sleeve), turn work. Slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front and tighten the yarn in the back so the loops of the slipped st come over the needle = double stitch. Purl to beginning of round. 

Row 2: Purl to marker (front of left sleeve), turn work. Make a double stitch. Knit to beginning of round. 

Row 3: Knit to marker (back of right sleeve), turn work. Make a double stitch. Purl to beginning of round. 

Row 4: Purl to marker (back of left sleeve), turn work. Make a double stitch. Knit to beginning of round. 

Knit 1 round with all sts. Knit the loops of each double st together to maintain the number of sts. 

Body 

Separate the sleeves: work 15(16)16(17)18 back sts, leave 21(22)23(24)24 sleeve sts on hold, cast on 2(2)3(4)4 sts at the underarm, work 29(31)32(34)36 front sts, leave 21(22)23(24)24 sleeve sts on hold, cast on 2(2)3(4)4 sts at the underarm, work 14(15)16(17)18 back sts = 62(66)70(76)80 sts 

Remove the beginning of round marker. Knit to midpoint of right armhole cast-on and place marker for beginning of round. If you have an odd number of sts in the underarm, place the marker next to the midpoint. 

Work stockinette st until the piece measures 21(22)24(26)28 cm from the armhole (or desired length). Work ribbing for 5(5)5(7)7 rounds and bind off in pattern. Note: Use the 8 mm needles if you prefer a tighter ribbing in the hem. 

Sleeves 

Place the 21(22)23(24)24 sleeve sts onto the larger double-pointed needles. Pick up and knit 1 st from between the sleeve sts and the underarm cast-on, 2(2)3(4)4 sts from the cast-on, and 1 st from between the cast-on and the sleeve sts = 25(26)28(30)30 sts. 

Work stockinette st in the round; on the next round, decrease the extra sts you picked up on both sides of the cast-on by k2tog = 23(24)26(28)28 sts. 

Place marker at the midpoint of the underarm and work stockinette st. When the sleeve measures 7(6)7(5)7 cm, k2tog at the beginning of the next round and work to end. Repeat the decrease every 7(6)7(5)7 cm 2(3)3(5)3 more times. Note: Decrease alternately at the beginning and end of round. 20(20)22(22)24 sts on the needles after the decreases. 

When the sleeve measures 25(27)30(32)35 cm from the underarm (or desired length), switch to the 8 mm double-pointed needles and work 5(5)5(7)7 rounds in 1x1 ribbing. Bind off in pattern. 

Finishing 

Weave in ends. Carefully steam the garment and allow to dry flat. 


Beginner

Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

Technique

Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

Patterns

All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

Adventurous beginner

Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

Technique

Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

Patterns

Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

Intermediate

So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

Technique

In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

Patterns

Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

Advanced

Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

Technique

On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

Patterns

Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

Gauge and Swatching

Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

Adjusting gauge

If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

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