Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
As low as €6.96
Availability: In stock
Chain 6 and form ring with 1 slip stitch (sl st) into the first ch.
Round 1: Ch3 (1st treble), work 2 trs into ring, *ch3, 3 trs*, repeat *-* 2 more times, ch3. Close round with 1 sl st into 3rd ch from beginning and break yarn.
Round 2: Join new colour and work into the corner of the 3 st chain (3 ch sts = tr at the beginning): *3 trs + ch3 + 3 trs, then ch1*, repeat *-* 3 more times and close round with 1 sl st as before. Break the yarn.
Round 3: Join new colour and work into the corner of the 3 st chain (3 ch sts = tr at the beginning): *3 trs + ch3 + 3 trs, then ch1, 3 trs into centre hole, ch1*, repeat *-* 3 more times. Close round with sl st and break yarn.
Round 4: Join new colour and work into the corner of the 3 st chain (3 ch sts = tr at the beginning): *3 trs + ch3 + 3 trs, then ch1, 3 trs into both side holes, ch1*, repeat *-* 3 more times. Close round with sl st and break yarn.
Round 5: Switch to main colour and work into the corner of the 3 st chain (3 ch sts = tr at the beginning): *3 trs + ch3 + 3 trs, then ch1, 3 trs into all side holes, ch1*, repeat *-* 3 more times. Close round with sl st and break yarn.
Work 1 round of double crochet using the main colour (Graphite). Work 1 dc into each st and 3 dc into the corners.
Colour scheme 1 (8 pcs)
Begin with Sunflower. Round 1 Sunflower, round 2 Orange, round 3 Peony, round 4 Turquoise, round 5 and dc round with Graphite.
Colour scheme 2 (8 pcs)
Begin with Peony. Round 1 Peony, round 2 Orange, round 3 Sunflower, round 4 Nettle, round 5 and dc round with Graphite.
Colour scheme 3 (3 pcs)
Use Graphite throughout.
Lightly steam the squares.
Join the squares following the schematic. Use Graphite to crochet the squares together on the RS. With WS facing each other, join yarn into right-hand corner and work 1 dc into both squares. *Ch1, skip 1 st on both squares, 1 dc into next sts*, repeat *-*.
Sew the seams with Graphite following the schematic.
Use Graphite to crochet the top border. Begin from a seam:
Round 1: 17 dc into each top square = 136 dc.
From now on crochet into the back loop of the sts on the previous round.
Round 2: 17 dc into the six side squares, 12 dc into both end squares (evenly decrease 5 dc) = 126 dc.
Round 3: 1 dc into each st = 126 dc.
Round 4: 17 dc into the six side squares, 7 dc into both end squares (evenly decrease 5 dc) = 116 dc.
Round 5: 1 dc into each st = 116 dc.
Round 6: Work dc, evenly decreasing 6 dc = 110 dc.
Rounds 7-10: Work dc.
Now work 1 round of sl sts.
Lining: Cut a right-sized piece of fabric (make sure it reaches the top edge) and sew it into shape. Sew the lining onto the top edge by hand or machine (the pictured bag is machine-sewn). You'll have to fold the top edge a few times as the opening is smaller in circumference than the rest of the bag.
Handles: Cut suitable length of ribbon for the handles. The pictured bag has 70 cm handles.
Chain 8.
Row 1: Work 1 tr into 4th ch from hook, work 4 trs = 6 trs.
Row 2: Ch3 (= 1st tr), 1 tr, ch2, 2 trs.
Keep repeating row 2 until the handle is the proper length.
Ch3 (= 1st tr), 5 trs = 6 trs.
Insert the ribbon into the handle, stitch together with a few stiches and sew onto the top edge of the bag. Make another handle in the same manner.
Decorative ribbons at ends: Crochet 2 approx. 40 cm long chains of ch sts. Weave in the ends. Pass the chain through the corners of the top squares and tie into a bow.
Chain 6 and form ring with 1 slip stitch (sl st) into the first ch.
Round 1: Ch3 (1st treble), work 2 trs into ring, *ch3, 3 trs*, repeat *-* 2 more times, ch3. Close round with 1 sl st into 3rd ch from beginning and break yarn.
Round 2: Join new colour and work into the corner of the 3 st chain (3 ch sts = tr at the beginning): *3 trs + ch3 + 3 trs, then ch1*, repeat *-* 3 more times and close round with 1 sl st as before. Break the yarn.
Round 3: Join new colour and work into the corner of the 3 st chain (3 ch sts = tr at the beginning): *3 trs + ch3 + 3 trs, then ch1, 3 trs into centre hole, ch1*, repeat *-* 3 more times. Close round with sl st and break yarn.
Round 4: Join new colour and work into the corner of the 3 st chain (3 ch sts = tr at the beginning): *3 trs + ch3 + 3 trs, then ch1, 3 trs into both side holes, ch1*, repeat *-* 3 more times. Close round with sl st and break yarn.
Round 5: Switch to main colour and work into the corner of the 3 st chain (3 ch sts = tr at the beginning): *3 trs + ch3 + 3 trs, then ch1, 3 trs into all side holes, ch1*, repeat *-* 3 more times. Close round with sl st and break yarn.
Work 1 round of double crochet using the main colour (Graphite). Work 1 dc into each st and 3 dc into the corners.
Colour scheme 1 (8 pcs)
Begin with Sunflower. Round 1 Sunflower, round 2 Orange, round 3 Peony, round 4 Turquoise, round 5 and dc round with Graphite.
Colour scheme 2 (8 pcs)
Begin with Peony. Round 1 Peony, round 2 Orange, round 3 Sunflower, round 4 Nettle, round 5 and dc round with Graphite.
Colour scheme 3 (3 pcs)
Use Graphite throughout.
Lightly steam the squares.
Join the squares following the schematic. Use Graphite to crochet the squares together on the RS. With WS facing each other, join yarn into right-hand corner and work 1 dc into both squares. *Ch1, skip 1 st on both squares, 1 dc into next sts*, repeat *-*.
Sew the seams with Graphite following the schematic.
Use Graphite to crochet the top border. Begin from a seam:
Round 1: 17 dc into each top square = 136 dc.
From now on crochet into the back loop of the sts on the previous round.
Round 2: 17 dc into the six side squares, 12 dc into both end squares (evenly decrease 5 dc) = 126 dc.
Round 3: 1 dc into each st = 126 dc.
Round 4: 17 dc into the six side squares, 7 dc into both end squares (evenly decrease 5 dc) = 116 dc.
Round 5: 1 dc into each st = 116 dc.
Round 6: Work dc, evenly decreasing 6 dc = 110 dc.
Rounds 7-10: Work dc.
Now work 1 round of sl sts.
Lining: Cut a right-sized piece of fabric (make sure it reaches the top edge) and sew it into shape. Sew the lining onto the top edge by hand or machine (the pictured bag is machine-sewn). You'll have to fold the top edge a few times as the opening is smaller in circumference than the rest of the bag.
Handles: Cut suitable length of ribbon for the handles. The pictured bag has 70 cm handles.
Chain 8.
Row 1: Work 1 tr into 4th ch from hook, work 4 trs = 6 trs.
Row 2: Ch3 (= 1st tr), 1 tr, ch2, 2 trs.
Keep repeating row 2 until the handle is the proper length.
Ch3 (= 1st tr), 5 trs = 6 trs.
Insert the ribbon into the handle, stitch together with a few stiches and sew onto the top edge of the bag. Make another handle in the same manner.
Decorative ribbons at ends: Crochet 2 approx. 40 cm long chains of ch sts. Weave in the ends. Pass the chain through the corners of the top squares and tie into a bow.
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.