Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
As low as €6.96
Yes, summer is the warmer season in the Nordics as well, but as anyone who’s spent a few summers up here will tell you: the days will come when you’ll need a big warm cardigan. A delightful summer knit - easy and fast - and you’ll stay warm even in the cold northern summer.
Availability: In stock
Note The cardigan is worked in one piece up to the armholes. The fronts and back are then worked separately. The sleeve sts are picked up from the armholes and the sleeves are worked in the round.
Body
Using the circular needle cast on 207(219)231(243)255 sts and begin ribbing: (WS) p8, *k1, p1*, repeat *–* until 9 sts remain, k1, p8. Keep working 8 sts at both ends in stockinette st. With the other sts work ribbing until the piece measures approx. 8 cm and finish on a WS row.
At both ends keep working 11 sts as established and with the other sts work stockinette st: k8, p1, k1, p1, k50(53)56(59)62, place right side marker, k85(91)97(103)109, place left side marker, work stockinette st to last 11 sts, p1, k1, p1, k8. 85(91)97(103)109 sts in the back, 61(64)67(70)73 sts in each front.
Note: When the piece measures 54(55)54(55)55(56) cm, make pockets: on a RS row k8, p1, k1, p1, k35(37)39(41)43, turn work. WS: p23 and turn work. Switch to the smaller needles and work stockinette st with these 23 sts. Leave the other sts on hold. Work until the pocket measures 26 cm. Switch back to the larger needle and work stockinette st until 23(25)27(29)31 sts remain. Turn work and make the other pocket as established. Work to end of row.
When the piece measures 79(80)79(80)80 cm, separate the fronts and back.
Top right front
With the 61(64)67(70)73 right front sts work as established and begin neckline decreases: on a RS row work the 11 border sts, skp, work to marker. Turn work and leave the other sts on hold. Repeat the neckline decrease every 1 cm 20(20)21(21)22 more times.
Note: When the armhole measures 20(21)22(23)24 cm, on every other row bind off 3x7(8)8(9)10 sts and 1x8(8)10(10)9 sts at the shoulder. After all the decreases there are 11 sts on the needles. Increase 1 st for seaming at the shoulder end. Work as established with these 12 sts. When the back border measures approx. 8,5(8,5)9(9)9,5 cm lightly stretched, bind off.
Top back
Work as established with the 85(91)97(103)109 back sts.
When the armhole measures 20(21)22(23)24 cm, on every other row bind off 3x7(8)8(9)10 sts and 1x8(8)10(10)9 sts at both ends. Bind off the remaining 27(27)29(29)31 sts.
Top left front
Mirror the right front, but work the neckline decreases by k2tog.
Sew the shoulder seams. Attach the back border to the neckline and sew or stitch together the ends. Fold the border the whole way through so that 6 edge sts are on the inside of the piece, loosely stitching the edge to the inside. Sew the sides of the pocket.
Sleeves
Use the 5 mm double-pointed needles, or the circular needle if you’re using the Magic Loop technique, to pick up sts from around the armhole. Begin at the bottom edge and pick up and knit 32(33)34(35)37 sts from the RS of both pieces = 64(66)68(70)74 sts.
Work stockinette st in the round.
When the sleeve measures 2(3)3(1)2 cm, decrease 1 st on both sides of the beginning of round: work 1 st, k2tog, work to last 3 sts, skp, k1. Repeat the decrease every 2(2)2(2,5)2 cm 9(10)10(10)11 more times = 44(44)46(48)50 sts.
When the sleeve measures 25(25)26(27)27 cm, work ribbing in the round.
When the sleeve measures 47(48)49(49)50 cm, bind off in pattern.
Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
Finishing
Weave in all ends. Steam and shape.
Note The cardigan is worked in one piece up to the armholes. The fronts and back are then worked separately. The sleeve sts are picked up from the armholes and the sleeves are worked in the round.
Body
Using the circular needle cast on 207(219)231(243)255 sts and begin ribbing: (WS) p8, *k1, p1*, repeat *–* until 9 sts remain, k1, p8. Keep working 8 sts at both ends in stockinette st. With the other sts work ribbing until the piece measures approx. 8 cm and finish on a WS row.
At both ends keep working 11 sts as established and with the other sts work stockinette st: k8, p1, k1, p1, k50(53)56(59)62, place right side marker, k85(91)97(103)109, place left side marker, work stockinette st to last 11 sts, p1, k1, p1, k8. 85(91)97(103)109 sts in the back, 61(64)67(70)73 sts in each front.
Note: When the piece measures 54(55)54(55)55(56) cm, make pockets: on a RS row k8, p1, k1, p1, k35(37)39(41)43, turn work. WS: p23 and turn work. Switch to the smaller needles and work stockinette st with these 23 sts. Leave the other sts on hold. Work until the pocket measures 26 cm. Switch back to the larger needle and work stockinette st until 23(25)27(29)31 sts remain. Turn work and make the other pocket as established. Work to end of row.
When the piece measures 79(80)79(80)80 cm, separate the fronts and back.
Top right front
With the 61(64)67(70)73 right front sts work as established and begin neckline decreases: on a RS row work the 11 border sts, skp, work to marker. Turn work and leave the other sts on hold. Repeat the neckline decrease every 1 cm 20(20)21(21)22 more times.
Note: When the armhole measures 20(21)22(23)24 cm, on every other row bind off 3x7(8)8(9)10 sts and 1x8(8)10(10)9 sts at the shoulder. After all the decreases there are 11 sts on the needles. Increase 1 st for seaming at the shoulder end. Work as established with these 12 sts. When the back border measures approx. 8,5(8,5)9(9)9,5 cm lightly stretched, bind off.
Top back
Work as established with the 85(91)97(103)109 back sts.
When the armhole measures 20(21)22(23)24 cm, on every other row bind off 3x7(8)8(9)10 sts and 1x8(8)10(10)9 sts at both ends. Bind off the remaining 27(27)29(29)31 sts.
Top left front
Mirror the right front, but work the neckline decreases by k2tog.
Sew the shoulder seams. Attach the back border to the neckline and sew or stitch together the ends. Fold the border the whole way through so that 6 edge sts are on the inside of the piece, loosely stitching the edge to the inside. Sew the sides of the pocket.
Sleeves
Use the 5 mm double-pointed needles, or the circular needle if you’re using the Magic Loop technique, to pick up sts from around the armhole. Begin at the bottom edge and pick up and knit 32(33)34(35)37 sts from the RS of both pieces = 64(66)68(70)74 sts.
Work stockinette st in the round.
When the sleeve measures 2(3)3(1)2 cm, decrease 1 st on both sides of the beginning of round: work 1 st, k2tog, work to last 3 sts, skp, k1. Repeat the decrease every 2(2)2(2,5)2 cm 9(10)10(10)11 more times = 44(44)46(48)50 sts.
When the sleeve measures 25(25)26(27)27 cm, work ribbing in the round.
When the sleeve measures 47(48)49(49)50 cm, bind off in pattern.
Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
Finishing
Weave in all ends. Steam and shape.
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.