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Frida sweater Novita Hygge Wool

Frida sweater Novita Hygge Wool

As low as €7.90

A sweater for all those who don’t mind purling, this sweater is sweater is worked all in reverse stockinette with a characteristic, simple cable running through the mid section.
Magazine Novita Syksy 2019 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 29
Skill level Intermediate
Frida sweater Novita Hygge Wool
€6.50
€6.50
€6.50
€6.50
€6.50
€6.50
Novita circular needles 80 cm birch-8.0 mm
€7.90

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Frida sweater Novita Hygge Wool
Frida sweater Novita Hygge Wool

In stock

€7.90

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N031929
    Pattern details
    Size
    XS(S)M(L)XL(XXL)

    Yarn demand
    Novita Hygge Wool
    (541) Icy Peony 750(800)850(900)1000(1050) g

    Needles and other supplies
    Circular needles (40 cm / 16 in; 80 cm / 32 in) and
    double-pointed needles Novita 8 mm (UK 0 / US 11) and 10 mm (UK 000 / US 15) or sizes needed for gauge

    Designer
    Sari Nordlund

    Details

    Using the larger needles cast on 31(31)37(37)43(43) sts and work flat:

    Row 1 (increase row): (RS) kfb (= knit the st through the front and back loops), pfb (= purl the st through the front and back loops), p1(1)2(2)3(3), place marker (left front raglan), *pfb, p3(3)4(4)5(5), pfb, p1*, place marker (left back raglan), pfb, p10(10)12(12)14(14), pfb, p1, place marker (right back raglan), repeat *–* once, place marker (right front raglan), pfb x2, p0(0)1(1)2(2), k1. 10 sts increased, 41(41)47(47)53(53) sts on the needles.

    Row 2: (WS) p2, knit to last 2 sts, p2.

    Row 3 (increase row): (RS) kfb, k1, p1(1)2(2)3(3), pfb, p1, *slip marker, pfb, purl to last 2 sts before next marker, pfb, p1*, repeat *–* 2 more times, slip marker, pfb, p2(2)3(3)4(4), kfb, p1. 10 sts increased, 51(51)57(57)63(63) sts on the needles.

    Row 4: (WS) p3, knit to last 3 sts, p3.

    Row 5 (increase row): (RS) k3, purl to last 2 sts before next marker, pfb, p1 *slip marker, pfb, purl to last 2 sts before next marker, pfb, p1*, repeat *–* 2 more times, slip marker, pfb, p3, k3. At the end of row cast on 3 sts for the front neckline using the backwards-loop method. Switch to working in the round. K3, purl to marker, slip marker. 11 sts increased, 62(62)68(68)74(74) sts on the needles: 19(19)21(21)23(23) sts front and back, 12(12)13(13)14(14) sts each sleeve.

    Continue in the round. The beginning of round is here (left front raglan).

    Round 6: *purl to marker, slip marker*, repeat *–* 2 more times, p5(5)6(6)7(7), place marker, work the 9 st cable pattern on row 1 of the chart, place marker, purl to end and slip marker.

    Work rows 2–20 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1–20.

    Round 7 (increase round): *pfb, purl to last 2 sts before next marker, pfb, p1, slip marker*, repeat *–* 2 more times, pfb, purl to marker, slip marker, work the 9 st cable pattern, slip marker, purl to last 2 sts before next marker, pfb, p1. 8 sts increased.

    Rounds 8 and 10: *purl to marker, slip marker*, repeat *–* 3 more times, work the 9 st cable pattern, slip marker, purl to end of round.

    Round 9 (increase round): *purl to marker, slip marker, pfb*, purl to last 2 sts before next marker, pfb, p1, slip marker, repeat *–*, purl to marker, slip marker, work the 9 st cable pattern, slip marker, purl to last 2 sts before next marker, pfb, p1. 4 sts increased.

    Repeat rounds 7–10 4(4)4(5)5(5) more times, then work round(s) 7–8 (7–9) 7–10 (7) 7 (7–8). 130(134)140(148)154(154) sts now on the needles: 41(43)45(47)49(49) sts front and back, 24(24)25(27)28(28) sts each sleeve.

    On the next round, remove all raglan markers. Leave the 24(24)25(27)28(28) left sleeve sts on hold, cast on 1(2)2(3)4(6) st(s) for the armhole using backwards-loop, place marker for beginning of round, cast on 1(2)3(4)4(6) st(s) using backwards-loop. Purl the 41(43)45(47)49(49) back sts, leave the 24(24)25(27)28(28) right sleeve sts on hold, cast on 2(4)5(7)8(12) sts for the other armhole using backwards-loop. Purl to marker, work the cable pattern, purl to end of round. 86(94)100(108)114(122) sts now on the needles (front + back).

    Body

    Work reverse stockinette st in the round and continue the cable pattern with the 9 sts.

    When the piece measures 33(34)35(36)38(39) cm from the armholes down, switch to the smaller needles and work ribbing in the round for 6 cm. Loosely bind off in pattern.

    Sleeves

    Place the 24(24)25(27)28(28) sts you left on hold onto the double-pointed needles. Starting at the bottom of the armhole, pick up and knit 2(3)4(4)5(6) sts from the left edge, purl the 24(24)25(27)28(28) sleeve sts, pick up and knit 2(3)3(3)4(5) sts from the right edge = 28(30)32(34)37(39) sts. Place marker for beginning of round. Distribute the sts evenly to four needles and work reverse stockinette st in the round.

    When the sleeve measures 15(10)10(8)6(5) cm from the underarm, p1, p2tog, purl to last 3 sts before marker, ssp (= slip 2 sts knitwise one at a time to the right needle, move the sts back onto the left needle and purl them together through the back loop), p1. Repeat the decreases every 0(10)10(8)6(5) cm 0(1)1(2)3(4) more time(s) = 26(26)28(28)29(29) sts.

    When the sleeve measures 35(36)37(38)38(39) cm, switch to the smaller needles and work ribbing in the round for 7 cm. Loosely bind off in pattern.

    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.

    Finishing

    Neckline edge: Starting at the right back raglan seam and using the smaller needles, pick up and knit 13(13)14(14)15(15) sts from the back neckline, 8(8)9(9)10(10) sts from the sleeve, 15(15)16(16)17(17) sts from the front neckline and 8(8)9(9)10(10) sts from the other sleeve = 44(44)48(48)52(52) sts. Place a marker for beginning of round. Work ribbing in the round for 3 cm, then bind off in pattern.

    Securely weave in. Steam the sweater lightly.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    body circumference 96(104)112(120)128(136) cm / 37¾(41)44(47¼)50½(53½) in middle back length 61(63)65(67)69(71) cm / 24(24¾)25½(26½)27¼(28) in inner sleeve length 42(43)44(45)45(46) cm / 16½(17)17¼(17¾)17¾(18) in

    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns
    Reverse stockinette stitch: purl the right side rows and knit the wrong side rows. Reverse stockinette stitch in the round: purl all rows. Cable pattern: follow the chart and instructions. Ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*, repeat *–*.

    Gauge
    9 sts and 12 rows in reverse stockinette st with larger needles = 10 cm / 4 in

    Note
    The sweater is knitted seamlessly starting from the neckline.


    Using the larger needles cast on 31(31)37(37)43(43) sts and work flat:

    Row 1 (increase row): (RS) kfb (= knit the st through the front and back loops), pfb (= purl the st through the front and back loops), p1(1)2(2)3(3), place marker (left front raglan), *pfb, p3(3)4(4)5(5), pfb, p1*, place marker (left back raglan), pfb, p10(10)12(12)14(14), pfb, p1, place marker (right back raglan), repeat *–* once, place marker (right front raglan), pfb x2, p0(0)1(1)2(2), k1. 10 sts increased, 41(41)47(47)53(53) sts on the needles.

    Row 2: (WS) p2, knit to last 2 sts, p2.

    Row 3 (increase row): (RS) kfb, k1, p1(1)2(2)3(3), pfb, p1, *slip marker, pfb, purl to last 2 sts before next marker, pfb, p1*, repeat *–* 2 more times, slip marker, pfb, p2(2)3(3)4(4), kfb, p1. 10 sts increased, 51(51)57(57)63(63) sts on the needles.

    Row 4: (WS) p3, knit to last 3 sts, p3.

    Row 5 (increase row): (RS) k3, purl to last 2 sts before next marker, pfb, p1 *slip marker, pfb, purl to last 2 sts before next marker, pfb, p1*, repeat *–* 2 more times, slip marker, pfb, p3, k3. At the end of row cast on 3 sts for the front neckline using the backwards-loop method. Switch to working in the round. K3, purl to marker, slip marker. 11 sts increased, 62(62)68(68)74(74) sts on the needles: 19(19)21(21)23(23) sts front and back, 12(12)13(13)14(14) sts each sleeve.

    Continue in the round. The beginning of round is here (left front raglan).

    Round 6: *purl to marker, slip marker*, repeat *–* 2 more times, p5(5)6(6)7(7), place marker, work the 9 st cable pattern on row 1 of the chart, place marker, purl to end and slip marker.

    Work rows 2–20 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1–20.

    Round 7 (increase round): *pfb, purl to last 2 sts before next marker, pfb, p1, slip marker*, repeat *–* 2 more times, pfb, purl to marker, slip marker, work the 9 st cable pattern, slip marker, purl to last 2 sts before next marker, pfb, p1. 8 sts increased.

    Rounds 8 and 10: *purl to marker, slip marker*, repeat *–* 3 more times, work the 9 st cable pattern, slip marker, purl to end of round.

    Round 9 (increase round): *purl to marker, slip marker, pfb*, purl to last 2 sts before next marker, pfb, p1, slip marker, repeat *–*, purl to marker, slip marker, work the 9 st cable pattern, slip marker, purl to last 2 sts before next marker, pfb, p1. 4 sts increased.

    Repeat rounds 7–10 4(4)4(5)5(5) more times, then work round(s) 7–8 (7–9) 7–10 (7) 7 (7–8). 130(134)140(148)154(154) sts now on the needles: 41(43)45(47)49(49) sts front and back, 24(24)25(27)28(28) sts each sleeve.

    On the next round, remove all raglan markers. Leave the 24(24)25(27)28(28) left sleeve sts on hold, cast on 1(2)2(3)4(6) st(s) for the armhole using backwards-loop, place marker for beginning of round, cast on 1(2)3(4)4(6) st(s) using backwards-loop. Purl the 41(43)45(47)49(49) back sts, leave the 24(24)25(27)28(28) right sleeve sts on hold, cast on 2(4)5(7)8(12) sts for the other armhole using backwards-loop. Purl to marker, work the cable pattern, purl to end of round. 86(94)100(108)114(122) sts now on the needles (front + back).

    Body

    Work reverse stockinette st in the round and continue the cable pattern with the 9 sts.

    When the piece measures 33(34)35(36)38(39) cm from the armholes down, switch to the smaller needles and work ribbing in the round for 6 cm. Loosely bind off in pattern.

    Sleeves

    Place the 24(24)25(27)28(28) sts you left on hold onto the double-pointed needles. Starting at the bottom of the armhole, pick up and knit 2(3)4(4)5(6) sts from the left edge, purl the 24(24)25(27)28(28) sleeve sts, pick up and knit 2(3)3(3)4(5) sts from the right edge = 28(30)32(34)37(39) sts. Place marker for beginning of round. Distribute the sts evenly to four needles and work reverse stockinette st in the round.

    When the sleeve measures 15(10)10(8)6(5) cm from the underarm, p1, p2tog, purl to last 3 sts before marker, ssp (= slip 2 sts knitwise one at a time to the right needle, move the sts back onto the left needle and purl them together through the back loop), p1. Repeat the decreases every 0(10)10(8)6(5) cm 0(1)1(2)3(4) more time(s) = 26(26)28(28)29(29) sts.

    When the sleeve measures 35(36)37(38)38(39) cm, switch to the smaller needles and work ribbing in the round for 7 cm. Loosely bind off in pattern.

    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.

    Finishing

    Neckline edge: Starting at the right back raglan seam and using the smaller needles, pick up and knit 13(13)14(14)15(15) sts from the back neckline, 8(8)9(9)10(10) sts from the sleeve, 15(15)16(16)17(17) sts from the front neckline and 8(8)9(9)10(10) sts from the other sleeve = 44(44)48(48)52(52) sts. Place a marker for beginning of round. Work ribbing in the round for 3 cm, then bind off in pattern.

    Securely weave in. Steam the sweater lightly.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

    With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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