Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
Fox-socks Novita Venla
As low as €6.96
These whimsical fox socks are knitted using the thin Novita Venla yarn.
Novita Talvi 2016 -lehti (in Finnish)
37
Expert
Availability: In stock
N041637
Related Products
Size
26(30)38Yarn demand
Novita VenlaYellow sock:
MC1 Saffron 100(100)150 g
CC1 Off White small amount
CC2 Black small amount
Black sock:
MC2 Black 100(100)150 g
CC1 Off White small amount
CC3 Tomato small amount
Needles and other supplies
NeedlesSet of 5 double pointed needles Novita 2.5-3.0 mm
Or the size to give you the correct tension.
Designer
Susanna MertsalmiFox face
Work flat using intarsia technique. The colours for yellow and black sock alternatives are indicated in the following way: yellow sock(black sock). Wind 2 tiny balls of CC1 for both colour alternatives and 1 tiny ball of CC2 for yellow alternative and 1 tiny ball of CC3 for black alternative.
Cast on 2 sts with CC1(CC1), 1 st with CC2(CC3) and 2 sts with CC1(CC1) = 5 sts. Turn work.
Row 1 (WS): P2 with CC1(CC1), k1fb with CC2(CC3) and p2 with CC1(CC1) = 6 sts. Turn work.
Row 2: K1fb, k1 with CC1(CC1), k2 with CC2(CC3), k1, k1fb with CC1(CC1) = 8 sts. Turn work.
Row 3: P3 with CC1(CC1), k2fb with CC2(CC3), p3 with CC1(CC1) = 10 sts. Turn work.
Row 4: K1fb, k2 with CC1(CC1), k4 with CC2(CC3), k2, k1fb with CC1(CC1) = 12 sts. Turn work.
Row 5: P4 with CC1(CC1), k1fb, k2, k1fb with CC2(CC3), p4 with CC1(CC1) = 14 sts. Cut CC2 and CC3 and turn work.
Row 6: K1fb, k3 with CC1(CC1), k6 with MC1(MC2), k3, kfb with CC1(CC1) = 16 sts. Turn work.
Row 7: P5 with CC1(CC1), p6 with MC1(MC2), p5 with CC1(CC1). Turn work.
Row 8: K1fb, k4 with CC1(CC1), k6 with MC1(MC2), k4, kfb with CC1(CC1) = 18 sts. Turn work.
Row 9: P6 with CC1(CC1), p6 with MC1(MC2), p6 with CC1(CC1). Turn work.
Row 10: K1fb, k5 with CC1(CC1), k6 with MC1(MC2), k5, kfb with CC1(CC1) = 20 sts. Turn work.
Row 11: P7 with CC1(CC1), p6 with MC1(MC2), p7 with CC1(CC1). Turn work.
Row 12: K1fb, k6 with CC1(CC1), k1fb, k4, k1fb with MC1(MC2), k6, kfb with CC1(CC1) = 24 sts. Turn work.
Row 13: P8 with CC1(CC1), p8 with MC1(MC2), p8 with CC1(CC1). Turn work.
Row 14: K1fb, k5, k2tog with CC1(CC1), k1fb, k6, k1fb with MC1(MC2), skp, k5, k1fb with CC1(CC1) = 26 sts. Turn work.
Row 15: P8 with CC1(CC1), p10 with MC1(MC2), p8 with CC1(CC1). Turn work.
Row 16: K1fb, k5, k2tog with CC1(CC1), k1fb, k8, k1fb with MC1(MC2), skp, k5, k1fb with CC1(CC1) = 28 sts. Turn work.
Row 17: P8 with CC1(CC1), p12 with MC1(MC2), p8 with CC1(CC1). Turn work.
Row 18: K6 with CC1(CC1), k2tog, k1fb, k10, k1fb, skp with MC1(MC2), k6 with CC1(CC1) (on this row, run MC1(MC2) across the back of the fabric) = 28 sts.
Rearrange the sts onto 2 double pointed needles, 14 sts on each (needles II and III). Next, using a long-tail cast-on method with CC1 as the thumb strand and MC1(MC2) as the forefinger strand, cast on 32(36)52 sts at the end on the row just worked. The newly cast-on stitches should be yellow(black). Distribute these sts onto 2 double pointed needles, 16(18)27 sts on each (needles I and IV). You have now 60(64)82 sts on the needles and the beginning of the round will be in the middle of the newly cast-on stitches. Join to work in the round and using MC1(MC2) work 1.5(1.5)2 cm in st st.
Ears
Knit the 16(18)27 sts on needle I and start working the first ear on needle II. Ears are worked using short rows.
Row 1 (RS): K9, turn work.
Row 2 (WS): Yo, p8, turn work.
Row 3: Yo, k7, turn work.
Row 4: Yo, p6, turn work.
Row 5: Yo, k5, turn work.
Row 6: Yo, p4, turn work.
Row 7: Yo, k3, turn work.
Row 8: Yo, p2, turn work.
Next, start closing the yarnover gaps:
Row 9: Yo, k2, knit the yarnover and the next unworked stitch together. Turn work.
Row 10: P3, purl the yo and the next unworked stitch together through back loops. Turn work.
Row 11: K4, knit the yarnover and the unworked stitch together, turn work.
Row 12: P5, purl the yo and the next unworked stitch together through back loops. Turn work.
Row 13: K6, knit the yarnover and the unworked stitch together. Turn work.
Row 14: P7, purl the yo and the next unworked stitch together through back loops. Turn work.
Row 15: K8, knit the yarnover and the unworked stitch together. Turn work.
Row 16: P9, purl the yo and the next unworked stitch together through back loops. Turn work.
Continue in the following way (RS): Needle II: k14; needle III: k4 and then, work another ear by repeating rows 1 - 16. Turn work and k10; needle IV: k16(18)27).
Next round: K26(28)37, p8, k26(28)37.
Turn the work inside out and start working in the opposite direction. This side will now be the RS of the work and the cuff will be folded here. Work 1.5(1.5)2.5 cm in st st in the round.
Next, start following the chart at row 1 and keep repeating the 15 st pattern repeat. Note that the pattern repeat and the total number of stitches may not line up. Keep repeating rows 1 - 35.
Note Wind 2(2)3 tiny balls of CC1(CC1) for vertical stripes. Work each stripe from its own tiny ball carrying MC1(MC2) at the back of the work. When you arrive at the stitch worked with CC1(CC1), simply take the yarn used to work the stitch on the previous round and work the stitch with it.
When the leg measures 15(15)16 cm, work in the following way:
Decrease round 1: K2tog, work in pattern to end.
Work 1 cm in pattern.
Decrease round 2: Work in pattern until 2 sts remain on needle IV: skp.
Work 1 cm in pattern.
Work alternating decrease rounds 1 and 2 every 1 cm until you have decreased 6(6)9 sts on needles I and IV. You have now 48(52)64 sts on the needles. Distribute the sts evenly onto four needles, 12(13)16 sts on each.
Women's shoe size 5 only: When the leg measures 36 cm from the fold, decrease 1 st on each needle = 48(52)60 sts.
When the leg measures 25.5(28)39 cm from the fold, start working the heel flap: With MC1(MC2) knit the sts on needle I onto needle IV [= 24(26)30 sts]. Turn work and leave the rest of the sts on hold for a while. Work in reinforced stitch pattern:
Row 1 (WS): Sl1, p to end. Turn work.
Row 2 (RS): *Sl1 wyib, k1*, repeat *-* for 11(12)14 times more. Turn work.
Repeat rows 1 - 2 rows until you have worked them for 11(12)14 times [= 22(24)28 rows].
Next row: P to end.
Keep working in reinforced stitch pattern and at the same time decrease for heel turn:
Next alternate decrease row (RS): Sl1, work to last 9(10)11 sts, skp. Turn work.
Next alternate decrease row (WS): Sl1, p6(6)8, p2tog. Turn work.
Next alternate decrease row (RS): Sl1, work to last 8(9)10 sts, skp. Turn work.
Keep working these decreases on each side of the 8(8)10 centre sts until you have only the 8(8)10 centre sts left. Then, distribute the heel flap sts onto two needles, 4(4)5 sts on each.
Next, with the aid of needle 5 pick up 12(13)15 sts along the left edge of the heel flap + 1 st between the needles and knit them through back loop onto needle I. Knit the sts on needle II and needle III. Next, pick up 1 st between needles + 12(13)15 sts along the right edge of the heel flap and knit them through back loop onto needle IV.
Start working in the round with these 58(66)74 sts and at the same time start decreasing for the gusset:
Round 1: Work to last 2 sts on needle I, k2tog, work to needle IV, skp, work to end.
Rounds 2 - 4: Work to end.
Repeat rounds 1 - 4 until you have 12(13)16 sts on each needle.
Work straight until the sole measures 12(14.5)20 cm. Then, start decreasing for toe:
Round 1: Needle I: K to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; needle II: k1, skp, k to end; needle III: k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; needle IV: k1, skp, k to end.
Round 2: K to end.
Repeat these 2 rows for 2 times more. After that, repeat only row 1 until you have 8(8)8 sts left.
Cut yarn, thread through the stitches and pull tight. Weave in ends.
Make another sock to match.
Finishing
Using CC2(MC2) sew eyes on face using duplicate stitches.
Steam block gently.
Finished dimensions
Children's shoe sizes 8.5 (12) and women's shoe size 5Stitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patternsStocking stitch in the round
All rounds: K to end.
Colourwork in the round
Follow the chart and written instructions working in patterned stocking stitch.
Intarsia (fox)
Wind a tiny ball of yarn for each isolated colour area. When changing colous on a row
Fox face
Work flat using intarsia technique. The colours for yellow and black sock alternatives are indicated in the following way: yellow sock(black sock). Wind 2 tiny balls of CC1 for both colour alternatives and 1 tiny ball of CC2 for yellow alternative and 1 tiny ball of CC3 for black alternative.
Cast on 2 sts with CC1(CC1), 1 st with CC2(CC3) and 2 sts with CC1(CC1) = 5 sts. Turn work.
Row 1 (WS): P2 with CC1(CC1), k1fb with CC2(CC3) and p2 with CC1(CC1) = 6 sts. Turn work.
Row 2: K1fb, k1 with CC1(CC1), k2 with CC2(CC3), k1, k1fb with CC1(CC1) = 8 sts. Turn work.
Row 3: P3 with CC1(CC1), k2fb with CC2(CC3), p3 with CC1(CC1) = 10 sts. Turn work.
Row 4: K1fb, k2 with CC1(CC1), k4 with CC2(CC3), k2, k1fb with CC1(CC1) = 12 sts. Turn work.
Row 5: P4 with CC1(CC1), k1fb, k2, k1fb with CC2(CC3), p4 with CC1(CC1) = 14 sts. Cut CC2 and CC3 and turn work.
Row 6: K1fb, k3 with CC1(CC1), k6 with MC1(MC2), k3, kfb with CC1(CC1) = 16 sts. Turn work.
Row 7: P5 with CC1(CC1), p6 with MC1(MC2), p5 with CC1(CC1). Turn work.
Row 8: K1fb, k4 with CC1(CC1), k6 with MC1(MC2), k4, kfb with CC1(CC1) = 18 sts. Turn work.
Row 9: P6 with CC1(CC1), p6 with MC1(MC2), p6 with CC1(CC1). Turn work.
Row 10: K1fb, k5 with CC1(CC1), k6 with MC1(MC2), k5, kfb with CC1(CC1) = 20 sts. Turn work.
Row 11: P7 with CC1(CC1), p6 with MC1(MC2), p7 with CC1(CC1). Turn work.
Row 12: K1fb, k6 with CC1(CC1), k1fb, k4, k1fb with MC1(MC2), k6, kfb with CC1(CC1) = 24 sts. Turn work.
Row 13: P8 with CC1(CC1), p8 with MC1(MC2), p8 with CC1(CC1). Turn work.
Row 14: K1fb, k5, k2tog with CC1(CC1), k1fb, k6, k1fb with MC1(MC2), skp, k5, k1fb with CC1(CC1) = 26 sts. Turn work.
Row 15: P8 with CC1(CC1), p10 with MC1(MC2), p8 with CC1(CC1). Turn work.
Row 16: K1fb, k5, k2tog with CC1(CC1), k1fb, k8, k1fb with MC1(MC2), skp, k5, k1fb with CC1(CC1) = 28 sts. Turn work.
Row 17: P8 with CC1(CC1), p12 with MC1(MC2), p8 with CC1(CC1). Turn work.
Row 18: K6 with CC1(CC1), k2tog, k1fb, k10, k1fb, skp with MC1(MC2), k6 with CC1(CC1) (on this row, run MC1(MC2) across the back of the fabric) = 28 sts.
Rearrange the sts onto 2 double pointed needles, 14 sts on each (needles II and III). Next, using a long-tail cast-on method with CC1 as the thumb strand and MC1(MC2) as the forefinger strand, cast on 32(36)52 sts at the end on the row just worked. The newly cast-on stitches should be yellow(black). Distribute these sts onto 2 double pointed needles, 16(18)27 sts on each (needles I and IV). You have now 60(64)82 sts on the needles and the beginning of the round will be in the middle of the newly cast-on stitches. Join to work in the round and using MC1(MC2) work 1.5(1.5)2 cm in st st.
Ears
Knit the 16(18)27 sts on needle I and start working the first ear on needle II. Ears are worked using short rows.
Row 1 (RS): K9, turn work.
Row 2 (WS): Yo, p8, turn work.
Row 3: Yo, k7, turn work.
Row 4: Yo, p6, turn work.
Row 5: Yo, k5, turn work.
Row 6: Yo, p4, turn work.
Row 7: Yo, k3, turn work.
Row 8: Yo, p2, turn work.
Next, start closing the yarnover gaps:
Row 9: Yo, k2, knit the yarnover and the next unworked stitch together. Turn work.
Row 10: P3, purl the yo and the next unworked stitch together through back loops. Turn work.
Row 11: K4, knit the yarnover and the unworked stitch together, turn work.
Row 12: P5, purl the yo and the next unworked stitch together through back loops. Turn work.
Row 13: K6, knit the yarnover and the unworked stitch together. Turn work.
Row 14: P7, purl the yo and the next unworked stitch together through back loops. Turn work.
Row 15: K8, knit the yarnover and the unworked stitch together. Turn work.
Row 16: P9, purl the yo and the next unworked stitch together through back loops. Turn work.
Continue in the following way (RS): Needle II: k14; needle III: k4 and then, work another ear by repeating rows 1 - 16. Turn work and k10; needle IV: k16(18)27).
Next round: K26(28)37, p8, k26(28)37.
Turn the work inside out and start working in the opposite direction. This side will now be the RS of the work and the cuff will be folded here. Work 1.5(1.5)2.5 cm in st st in the round.
Next, start following the chart at row 1 and keep repeating the 15 st pattern repeat. Note that the pattern repeat and the total number of stitches may not line up. Keep repeating rows 1 - 35.
Note Wind 2(2)3 tiny balls of CC1(CC1) for vertical stripes. Work each stripe from its own tiny ball carrying MC1(MC2) at the back of the work. When you arrive at the stitch worked with CC1(CC1), simply take the yarn used to work the stitch on the previous round and work the stitch with it.
When the leg measures 15(15)16 cm, work in the following way:
Decrease round 1: K2tog, work in pattern to end.
Work 1 cm in pattern.
Decrease round 2: Work in pattern until 2 sts remain on needle IV: skp.
Work 1 cm in pattern.
Work alternating decrease rounds 1 and 2 every 1 cm until you have decreased 6(6)9 sts on needles I and IV. You have now 48(52)64 sts on the needles. Distribute the sts evenly onto four needles, 12(13)16 sts on each.
Women's shoe size 5 only: When the leg measures 36 cm from the fold, decrease 1 st on each needle = 48(52)60 sts.
When the leg measures 25.5(28)39 cm from the fold, start working the heel flap: With MC1(MC2) knit the sts on needle I onto needle IV [= 24(26)30 sts]. Turn work and leave the rest of the sts on hold for a while. Work in reinforced stitch pattern:
Row 1 (WS): Sl1, p to end. Turn work.
Row 2 (RS): *Sl1 wyib, k1*, repeat *-* for 11(12)14 times more. Turn work.
Repeat rows 1 - 2 rows until you have worked them for 11(12)14 times [= 22(24)28 rows].
Next row: P to end.
Keep working in reinforced stitch pattern and at the same time decrease for heel turn:
Next alternate decrease row (RS): Sl1, work to last 9(10)11 sts, skp. Turn work.
Next alternate decrease row (WS): Sl1, p6(6)8, p2tog. Turn work.
Next alternate decrease row (RS): Sl1, work to last 8(9)10 sts, skp. Turn work.
Keep working these decreases on each side of the 8(8)10 centre sts until you have only the 8(8)10 centre sts left. Then, distribute the heel flap sts onto two needles, 4(4)5 sts on each.
Next, with the aid of needle 5 pick up 12(13)15 sts along the left edge of the heel flap + 1 st between the needles and knit them through back loop onto needle I. Knit the sts on needle II and needle III. Next, pick up 1 st between needles + 12(13)15 sts along the right edge of the heel flap and knit them through back loop onto needle IV.
Start working in the round with these 58(66)74 sts and at the same time start decreasing for the gusset:
Round 1: Work to last 2 sts on needle I, k2tog, work to needle IV, skp, work to end.
Rounds 2 - 4: Work to end.
Repeat rounds 1 - 4 until you have 12(13)16 sts on each needle.
Work straight until the sole measures 12(14.5)20 cm. Then, start decreasing for toe:
Round 1: Needle I: K to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; needle II: k1, skp, k to end; needle III: k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; needle IV: k1, skp, k to end.
Round 2: K to end.
Repeat these 2 rows for 2 times more. After that, repeat only row 1 until you have 8(8)8 sts left.
Cut yarn, thread through the stitches and pull tight. Weave in ends.
Make another sock to match.
Finishing
Using CC2(MC2) sew eyes on face using duplicate stitches.
Steam block gently.
This pattern is publish in the latest issue of Novita Magazine. You can buy your own copy here
Beginner
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Technique
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
Patterns
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Adventurous beginner
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Technique
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
Intermediate
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
Technique
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Advanced
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
Technique
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Gauge and Swatching
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
Adjusting gauge
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.
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