Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
As low as €6.96
Availability: In stock
Cast on 172(188)204 sts, place marker for beginning of round and begin ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*, repeat *-* to end of round.
Work ribbing for 2 cm. On the last round place second marker 86(94)102 sts from first marker (= side). 86(94)102 sts on the front and back pieces.
Work brioche in the round with all sts.
When the piece measures 30(31)32 cm and you have last worked brioche round 2, begin the bottom brioche pattern:
Set-up round: *work 2(6)10 sts in brioche as established, brk, do not drop st off left-hand needle, yo and work same st again (= 2 sts increased), work 5 sts in brioche, place marker, sk2p as established (= 2 sts decreased), work brioche to last 12(16)20 sts before next marker, knit next 3 sts together with their yarn overs (= 2 sts decreased), place marker, work 5 sts in brioche, brk, do not drop st off left-hand needle, yo and work same st again (= 2 sts increased), work brioche to next marker, slip marker*, repeat *-* once. Work 3 rounds of brioche with all sts.
Pattern round 1: *work brioche to last 6 sts before next marker, brk, do not drop st off left-hand needle, yo and work same st again (= 2 sts increased), work 5 sts in brioche, slip marker, sk2p (= 2 sts decreased), work brioche to last 3 sts before next marker, knit next 3 sts together with their yarn overs (= 2 sts decreased), slip marker, work 5 sts in brioche, brk, do not drop st off left-hand needle, yo and work same st again (= 2 sts increased), work brioche to next marker, slip marker*, repeat *-* once. Work 3 rounds of brioche with all sts.
Work pattern round 1 on every 4th round 8 more times. Then work brioche (you can now remove all markers except those at the beginning of round and the other side).
When the piece measures 43(44)45 cm and you have last worked round 3, divide the sts into two groups: on the next round work until you have worked 1 st after the first marker, then place the previous 3 sts on hold for the armhole (knit, purl and knit sts), removing marker. Work until you have worked 1 st after the next marker, then place the previous 3 sts on hold for the other armhole, removing marker. 83(91)99 sts front and back. Leave the back sts on hold.
With the 83(91)99 front sts work brioche flat and begin the top brioche pattern:
Pattern row 1 (RS): k1, work 28(32)36 sts in brioche, knit next 3 sts together with their yarn overs (= 2 sts decreased), place marker, work 5 sts in brioche, brk, do not drop st off left-hand needle, yo and work same st again (= 2 sts increased), work next 7 sts in brioche (= middle 7 sts of the piece), brk, do not drop st off left-hand needle, yo and work same st again ( = 2 sts increased), work 5 sts in brioche, place marker, sk2p (= 2 sts decreased), work brioche to last st, k1. Keep working 1 st at both ends in garter st and work brioche for 5 rows.
Pattern row 2 (RS): work brioche to last 3 sts before marker, knit next 3 sts together with their yarn overs (= 2 sts decreased), slip marker, work 5 sts in brioche, brk, do not drop st off left-hand needle, yo and work same st again (= 2 sts increased), work brioche to last 6 sts before marker, brk, do not drop st off left-hand needle, yo and work same st again (= 2 sts increased), work 5 sts in brioche, slip marker, sk2p (= 2 sts decreased), work brioche to last st, k1. Keep working 1 st at both ends in garter st and work brioche for 5 rows.
Work pattern row 2 on every 6th row 2 more times, then work brioche for 1 row. 35 sts now between the markers.
Central pattern:
Row 1 (RS): work brioche to marker, slip marker, work 7 sts in brioche, place marker, with next 21 sts work row 1 of central pattern (see above), place marker, work brioche to end.
Row 2 (WS): work brioche for 1 row.
Row 3 (RS): *work brioche to marker, slip marker*, repeat *-* once, work row 1 of central pattern (21 sts), slip marker, work brioche to end.
Row 4 (WS): work brioche for 1 row.
Row 5 (RS): work brioche to last 3 sts before marker, knit next 3 sts together with their yarn overs (= 2 sts decreased), slip marker, work 5 sts in brioche, brk, do not drop st off left-hand needle, yo and work same st again (= 2 sts increased), work brioche to marker (note: only 1 st the first time, 3 sts next time, etc.), slip marker, work row 1 of central pattern (21 sts), slip marker, work brioche to last 7 sts before next marker (note: only 1 st the first time, 3 sts next time, etc.), brk, do not drop st off left-hand needle, yo and work same st again (= 2 sts increased), work brioche to next marker, slip marker, sk2p (= 2 sts decreased), work brioche to end.
Row 6 (WS): work brioche for 1 row.
Row 7 (RS): work as row 3.
Row 8 (WS): work brioche for 1 row.
Keep repeating rows 3-8 until the armhole measures 15(16)17 cm. Finish on a WS row.
Next row (RS): *work to last st before 2nd marker, k1. Leave the left-hand sts on hold and remove marker. Turn work, k1, work the WS row.
Work brioche with the 31(35)39 right-hand sts. Continue decreasing and increasing next to the remaining marker as established on row 6. On every 4th row bind off 3x2 sts at the neckline edge.
When the armhole measures 22(23)24 cm, bind off the 25(29)33 shoulder sts.
Knit the other side in the same manner.
With the 83(91)99 back sts work brioche flat and begin the top brioche pattern:
Pattern row 1 (RS): k1, work 28(32)36 sts in brioche, knit next 3 sts together with their yarn overs (= 2 sts decreased), place marker, work 5 sts in brioche, brk, do not drop st off left-hand needle, yo and work same st again (= 2 sts increased), work next 7 sts in brioche (= middle 7 sts of the piece), brk, do not drop st off left-hand needle, yo and work same st again ( = 2 sts increased), work 5 sts in brioche, place marker, sk2p (= 2 sts decreased), work brioche to last st, k1. Keep working 1 st at both ends in garter st and work brioche for 5 rows.
Pattern row 2 (RS): work brioche to last 3 sts before marker, knit next 3 sts together with their yarn overs (= 2 sts decreased), slip marker, work 5 sts in brioche, brk, do not drop st off left-hand needle, yo and work same st again (= 2 sts increased), work brioche to last 6 sts before marker, brk, do not drop st off left-hand needle, yo and work same st again (= 2 sts increased), work 5 sts in brioche, slip marker, sk2p (= 2 sts decreased), work brioche to last st, k1. Keep working 1 st at both ends in garter st and work brioche for 5 rows.
Work pattern row 2 on every 6th row until the armhole measures 20(21)22 cm. Finish on a WS row. On the next row (RS) bind off the middle 29 sts for the neckline. Work one side at a time. After 4 rows bind off 1x2 sts at the neckline edge.
When the armhole measures 22(23)24 cm, bind off the 25(29)33 shoulder sts.
Knit the other side in the same manner.
Sew the shoulder seams.
Using the double-pointed needles pick up and knit the 2 left-hand sts you left on hold (purl + knit) + 59(61)63 sts from the armhole edge + the remaining knit st. Place marker for beginning of round and work brioche in the round as follows: Round 1: sl1yo, brk, *sl1yo, k1*, repeat *-* to end of round. Round 2: *brp, sl1yo*, repeat *-* to end of round. Round 3: *sl1yo, brk*, repeat *-* to end of round. Keep repeating rounds 2-3.
When the sleeve measures 2,5 cm and you have last worked brioche round 2, decrease 2 sts on both sides of the beginning of round: work 1 st, knit 3 sts together with their yarn overs (= 2 sts decreased), work brioche to last 3 sts, sk2p (= 2 sts decreased). 4 sts decreased, 58(60)62 sts on the needles.
Repeat the decreases as established every 6 cm 5 more times (on brioche round 3) = 38(40)42 sts.
When the sleeve measures approx. 41(42)43 cm and you have last worked round 2, on the next round: *brk, p1*, repeat *-* to end of round. Work ribbing in the round for 4 cm. Bind off in pattern.
Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
Neckline: Place the sts you left on hold onto the short circular needle and pick up and knit additional sts for 78(80)82 sts in total. Work ribbing in the round so that you'll knit the knits and purl the purls at the front middle section.
When the collar measures 3 cm, loosely bind off in pattern.
Note: If you wish you can knit a folded border: work ribbing for 6 cm and loosely bind off in pattern. Fold the collar once and sew the bind-off edge to the WS.
Steam and shape. Weave in all ends.
Stitch patterns Ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*, repeat *–*.
Brioche in the round: Round 1: *k1, slip 1 yarn over (sl1yo)*, repeat *–* to end of round. Round 2: *sl1yo, purl together the yo and next st (brp)*, repeat *–* to end of round. Round 3: *knit together the yo and next st (brk), sl1yo*, repeat *–* to end of round. Keep repeating rounds 2–3.
Brioche flat: Row 1 (RS): k1, *brk, sl1yo*, repeat *–* until 2 sts remain, brk, k1. Row 2 (WS): k1, *sl1yo, brk*, repeat *–* until 2 sts remain, sl1yo, k1.
Central pattern on front piece: Row 1 (RS): knit 3 sts together with their yarn overs (= 2 sts decreased), work 5 sts in brioche, brk, do not drop st off left-hand needle, yo and work same st again (= 2 sts increased), work 3 sts in brioche, brk, do not drop st off left-hand needle, yo and work same st again (= 2 sts increased), work 5 sts in brioche, sk2p (= slip yo and knit st knitwise, knit 2 sts together with their yarn overs, pass slipped st over; 2 sts decreased). Row 2 (WS): *sl1yo, k1*, repeat *–* until 1 st remains, sl1yo.
Gauge 14 sts and 38 rows in brioche with larger needles = 10 cm / 4 in
Note The front and back are knitted in the round up to the armholes. The sleeves are knitted in the round
Cast on 172(188)204 sts, place marker for beginning of round and begin ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*, repeat *-* to end of round.
Work ribbing for 2 cm. On the last round place second marker 86(94)102 sts from first marker (= side). 86(94)102 sts on the front and back pieces.
Work brioche in the round with all sts.
When the piece measures 30(31)32 cm and you have last worked brioche round 2, begin the bottom brioche pattern:
Set-up round: *work 2(6)10 sts in brioche as established, brk, do not drop st off left-hand needle, yo and work same st again (= 2 sts increased), work 5 sts in brioche, place marker, sk2p as established (= 2 sts decreased), work brioche to last 12(16)20 sts before next marker, knit next 3 sts together with their yarn overs (= 2 sts decreased), place marker, work 5 sts in brioche, brk, do not drop st off left-hand needle, yo and work same st again (= 2 sts increased), work brioche to next marker, slip marker*, repeat *-* once. Work 3 rounds of brioche with all sts.
Pattern round 1: *work brioche to last 6 sts before next marker, brk, do not drop st off left-hand needle, yo and work same st again (= 2 sts increased), work 5 sts in brioche, slip marker, sk2p (= 2 sts decreased), work brioche to last 3 sts before next marker, knit next 3 sts together with their yarn overs (= 2 sts decreased), slip marker, work 5 sts in brioche, brk, do not drop st off left-hand needle, yo and work same st again (= 2 sts increased), work brioche to next marker, slip marker*, repeat *-* once. Work 3 rounds of brioche with all sts.
Work pattern round 1 on every 4th round 8 more times. Then work brioche (you can now remove all markers except those at the beginning of round and the other side).
When the piece measures 43(44)45 cm and you have last worked round 3, divide the sts into two groups: on the next round work until you have worked 1 st after the first marker, then place the previous 3 sts on hold for the armhole (knit, purl and knit sts), removing marker. Work until you have worked 1 st after the next marker, then place the previous 3 sts on hold for the other armhole, removing marker. 83(91)99 sts front and back. Leave the back sts on hold.
With the 83(91)99 front sts work brioche flat and begin the top brioche pattern:
Pattern row 1 (RS): k1, work 28(32)36 sts in brioche, knit next 3 sts together with their yarn overs (= 2 sts decreased), place marker, work 5 sts in brioche, brk, do not drop st off left-hand needle, yo and work same st again (= 2 sts increased), work next 7 sts in brioche (= middle 7 sts of the piece), brk, do not drop st off left-hand needle, yo and work same st again ( = 2 sts increased), work 5 sts in brioche, place marker, sk2p (= 2 sts decreased), work brioche to last st, k1. Keep working 1 st at both ends in garter st and work brioche for 5 rows.
Pattern row 2 (RS): work brioche to last 3 sts before marker, knit next 3 sts together with their yarn overs (= 2 sts decreased), slip marker, work 5 sts in brioche, brk, do not drop st off left-hand needle, yo and work same st again (= 2 sts increased), work brioche to last 6 sts before marker, brk, do not drop st off left-hand needle, yo and work same st again (= 2 sts increased), work 5 sts in brioche, slip marker, sk2p (= 2 sts decreased), work brioche to last st, k1. Keep working 1 st at both ends in garter st and work brioche for 5 rows.
Work pattern row 2 on every 6th row 2 more times, then work brioche for 1 row. 35 sts now between the markers.
Central pattern:
Row 1 (RS): work brioche to marker, slip marker, work 7 sts in brioche, place marker, with next 21 sts work row 1 of central pattern (see above), place marker, work brioche to end.
Row 2 (WS): work brioche for 1 row.
Row 3 (RS): *work brioche to marker, slip marker*, repeat *-* once, work row 1 of central pattern (21 sts), slip marker, work brioche to end.
Row 4 (WS): work brioche for 1 row.
Row 5 (RS): work brioche to last 3 sts before marker, knit next 3 sts together with their yarn overs (= 2 sts decreased), slip marker, work 5 sts in brioche, brk, do not drop st off left-hand needle, yo and work same st again (= 2 sts increased), work brioche to marker (note: only 1 st the first time, 3 sts next time, etc.), slip marker, work row 1 of central pattern (21 sts), slip marker, work brioche to last 7 sts before next marker (note: only 1 st the first time, 3 sts next time, etc.), brk, do not drop st off left-hand needle, yo and work same st again (= 2 sts increased), work brioche to next marker, slip marker, sk2p (= 2 sts decreased), work brioche to end.
Row 6 (WS): work brioche for 1 row.
Row 7 (RS): work as row 3.
Row 8 (WS): work brioche for 1 row.
Keep repeating rows 3-8 until the armhole measures 15(16)17 cm. Finish on a WS row.
Next row (RS): *work to last st before 2nd marker, k1. Leave the left-hand sts on hold and remove marker. Turn work, k1, work the WS row.
Work brioche with the 31(35)39 right-hand sts. Continue decreasing and increasing next to the remaining marker as established on row 6. On every 4th row bind off 3x2 sts at the neckline edge.
When the armhole measures 22(23)24 cm, bind off the 25(29)33 shoulder sts.
Knit the other side in the same manner.
With the 83(91)99 back sts work brioche flat and begin the top brioche pattern:
Pattern row 1 (RS): k1, work 28(32)36 sts in brioche, knit next 3 sts together with their yarn overs (= 2 sts decreased), place marker, work 5 sts in brioche, brk, do not drop st off left-hand needle, yo and work same st again (= 2 sts increased), work next 7 sts in brioche (= middle 7 sts of the piece), brk, do not drop st off left-hand needle, yo and work same st again ( = 2 sts increased), work 5 sts in brioche, place marker, sk2p (= 2 sts decreased), work brioche to last st, k1. Keep working 1 st at both ends in garter st and work brioche for 5 rows.
Pattern row 2 (RS): work brioche to last 3 sts before marker, knit next 3 sts together with their yarn overs (= 2 sts decreased), slip marker, work 5 sts in brioche, brk, do not drop st off left-hand needle, yo and work same st again (= 2 sts increased), work brioche to last 6 sts before marker, brk, do not drop st off left-hand needle, yo and work same st again (= 2 sts increased), work 5 sts in brioche, slip marker, sk2p (= 2 sts decreased), work brioche to last st, k1. Keep working 1 st at both ends in garter st and work brioche for 5 rows.
Work pattern row 2 on every 6th row until the armhole measures 20(21)22 cm. Finish on a WS row. On the next row (RS) bind off the middle 29 sts for the neckline. Work one side at a time. After 4 rows bind off 1x2 sts at the neckline edge.
When the armhole measures 22(23)24 cm, bind off the 25(29)33 shoulder sts.
Knit the other side in the same manner.
Sew the shoulder seams.
Using the double-pointed needles pick up and knit the 2 left-hand sts you left on hold (purl + knit) + 59(61)63 sts from the armhole edge + the remaining knit st. Place marker for beginning of round and work brioche in the round as follows: Round 1: sl1yo, brk, *sl1yo, k1*, repeat *-* to end of round. Round 2: *brp, sl1yo*, repeat *-* to end of round. Round 3: *sl1yo, brk*, repeat *-* to end of round. Keep repeating rounds 2-3.
When the sleeve measures 2,5 cm and you have last worked brioche round 2, decrease 2 sts on both sides of the beginning of round: work 1 st, knit 3 sts together with their yarn overs (= 2 sts decreased), work brioche to last 3 sts, sk2p (= 2 sts decreased). 4 sts decreased, 58(60)62 sts on the needles.
Repeat the decreases as established every 6 cm 5 more times (on brioche round 3) = 38(40)42 sts.
When the sleeve measures approx. 41(42)43 cm and you have last worked round 2, on the next round: *brk, p1*, repeat *-* to end of round. Work ribbing in the round for 4 cm. Bind off in pattern.
Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
Neckline: Place the sts you left on hold onto the short circular needle and pick up and knit additional sts for 78(80)82 sts in total. Work ribbing in the round so that you'll knit the knits and purl the purls at the front middle section.
When the collar measures 3 cm, loosely bind off in pattern.
Note: If you wish you can knit a folded border: work ribbing for 6 cm and loosely bind off in pattern. Fold the collar once and sew the bind-off edge to the WS.
Steam and shape. Weave in all ends.
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.