Fingerless Mitts with Long Cuff Novita 7 Brothers

As low as €6.96

These fingerless mitts are knitted with Novita 7 Brothers -yarn.
Novita Syksy 2016 -lehti (in Finnish)
13
Intermediate
Customize Fingerless Mitts with Long Cuff Novita 7 Brothers

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    €6.96

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    Availability: In stock

    N031613
    Size
    one size

    Yarn demand
    Novita 7 Veljestä (7 Brothers)
    honey 150 g

    Needles and other supplies
    Needles:
    1 Set of 3.5 mm Novita double pointed needles
    1 Set of 4.0 mm Novita double pointed needles
    Or the sizes required to give the correct tension

    Designer
    Minna Metsänen

    Right hand mitt

    Using larger needles cast on 52 sts for cuff and divide the sts on four needles, 13 sts on each. Join to work in the round and work 30 cm in rib.

    Change to smaller needles and start working in st st in the round. On the first round decrease 12 sts evenly = 40 sts. When you have worked 4 rows in st st, start shaping the thumb gusset:

    Row 1: Work straight to the first st on the 3rd needle, k1, place a stitch marker (SM), make 1 right (M1R; insert the left hand needle tip from back to front under the bar between the needles and knit into front of the loop), k3, make 1 left (M1L; insert the left hand needle tip from front to back under the bar between the needles and knit into back of the loop), place SM, k to end.

    Rows 2-3: K to end.

    Row 4: Work straight to the first SM, slip the SM to the right needle, M1R, k to the second SM, M1L, slip the SM to the right needle, k to end.

    Rows 5-6: K to end.

    Repeat rows 4-6 two more times

    Next row: K straight to the first SM, remove SM, remove next 11 sts on a stitch holder or waste yarn, remove SM, cast on 3 sts, k to end.

    Work 5.5 cm in st st in the round.

    Work 1.5 cm in rib in the round.

    Cast off all sts firmly.

    Thumb

    Pick up the sts on hold onto two needles and pick up and knit 4 sts onto 3rd needle across the gap between thumb and index finger = 15 sts. Join to work in the round and k one row.

    Next row: K straight to the 1st st of the 3rd needle, ssk, k2tog.

    Work 2 cm in st st and then 1.5 cm in rib.

    Cast off all sts.

    Left hand mitt

    Work as right mitt reversing the position of the thumb. The thumb gusset will be worked at the end of the 2nd needle.

    Finishing

    Steam block the mitts gently.

    Finished dimensions
    to fit average woman's hand

    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns:
    - Rib stitch in the round:
    All rounds: *K1, p1*

    Right hand mitt

    Using larger needles cast on 52 sts for cuff and divide the sts on four needles, 13 sts on each. Join to work in the round and work 30 cm in rib.

    Change to smaller needles and start working in st st in the round. On the first round decrease 12 sts evenly = 40 sts. When you have worked 4 rows in st st, start shaping the thumb gusset:

    Row 1: Work straight to the first st on the 3rd needle, k1, place a stitch marker (SM), make 1 right (M1R; insert the left hand needle tip from back to front under the bar between the needles and knit into front of the loop), k3, make 1 left (M1L; insert the left hand needle tip from front to back under the bar between the needles and knit into back of the loop), place SM, k to end.

    Rows 2-3: K to end.

    Row 4: Work straight to the first SM, slip the SM to the right needle, M1R, k to the second SM, M1L, slip the SM to the right needle, k to end.

    Rows 5-6: K to end.

    Repeat rows 4-6 two more times

    Next row: K straight to the first SM, remove SM, remove next 11 sts on a stitch holder or waste yarn, remove SM, cast on 3 sts, k to end.

    Work 5.5 cm in st st in the round.

    Work 1.5 cm in rib in the round.

    Cast off all sts firmly.

    Thumb

    Pick up the sts on hold onto two needles and pick up and knit 4 sts onto 3rd needle across the gap between thumb and index finger = 15 sts. Join to work in the round and k one row.

    Next row: K straight to the 1st st of the 3rd needle, ssk, k2tog.

    Work 2 cm in st st and then 1.5 cm in rib.

    Cast off all sts.

    Left hand mitt

    Work as right mitt reversing the position of the thumb. The thumb gusset will be worked at the end of the 2nd needle.

    Finishing

    Steam block the mitts gently.


    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

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