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Feelgood trousers Novita Baby Merino

As low as €6.90

Novita Baby Merino is the softest merino you can imagine for a pair of comfortable leisure pants. The legs have some extra length for a stylish fold.
Magazine Novita Kesäextra 2020 (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 2
Skill level Intermediate
Feelgood trousers Novita Baby Merino
Novita circular needles 60 cm birch-3.0 mm
€6.90

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Feelgood trousers Novita Baby Merino
Feelgood trousers Novita Baby Merino

In stock

€6.90

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N02X202
    Pattern details
    Size
    XS(S)M/L(XL)

    Yarn demand
    Novita Baby Merino
    (326) Silver Willow  350(400)450(500) g


    Needles and other supplies
    Circular needles
    (40 cm / 16 in; 60 cm / 24 in) Novita 3 mm (UK 11 / US 2½)
    and 3½ mm (US 4) or sizes needed to obtain gauge


    Designer
    Sari Nordlund

    Details
    Right leg
     
    Using the smaller 40 cm needles cast on 74(80)84(90) sts, place marker for beginning of round and work ribbing in the round for 8 cm. Purl 1 round (fold round), switch to the larger needles and work stockinette st in the round.
     
    When the piece measures 8 cm from the fold round, begin increases: k1, increase 1 st (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), work stockinette st to last st, increase 1 st, k1. Repeat the increases every 2 cm 27(25)22(21) more times and then 10(15)22(25) times every 1 cm = 150(162)174(184) sts.
     
    When the piece measures 75(76)77(78) cm from the fold round, work to last 7(7)9(11) sts of the next round, bind off 7(7)9(11) sts for back crotch, bind off the first 4(4)5(6) sts of the next round for front crotch, work to end of round. Turn work, bind off the first 4(4)4(4) sts for back crotch, purl to end of round. Turn work, bind off the first 2(2)2(2) sts for front crotch, knit to end of round. Place the remaining 133(145)154(161) sts on hold.
     
     
    Left leg
     
    Work like right leg until the piece measures 75(76)77(78) cm from the fold round.
     
    Bind off as follows: work stockinette st to last 4(4)5(6) sts of the next round, bind off 4(4)5(6) sts for front crotch, bind off the first 7(7)9(11) sts of the next round for back crotch, work to end of round. Turn work, bind off the first 2(2)2(2) sts for front crotch, purl to end of round. Turn work, bind off the first 4(4)4(4) sts for back crotch, knit to end of round. Move the remaining 133(145)154(161) sts onto the longer circular needle.
     
     
    Top
     
    Place marker (front midpoint), work the 133(145)154(161) right leg sts onto the same needle, place marker (back midpoint). 266(290)308(322) sts on the needles. The beginning of round is at the back midpoint.
     
    Begin decreases at the middle back and front: *k1, k2tog, work to last 3 sts before marker, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), k1, slip marker*, repeat *-* once more. 4 sts decreased, 262(286)304(318) sts on the needles.
     
    Repeat the decreases every 3rd round 20(24)20(18) more times. 182(190)224(246) sts now on the needles.
     
    When the top measures 22(23)23(24) cm from the crotch, shape the back with short rows:
     
    Row 1: (RS) knit the first 51(55)68(77) sts, turn work and yo.
     
    Row 2: (WS) slip 1 and tighten the yarn in the back of the work so the loops of the slipped st and yo come over the needle (= double stitch), purl to marker, slip marker, p51(55)68(77). Turn work, yarn over.
     
    Row 3: (RS) double stitch, knit to marker, slip marker, knit to last 6(7)9(11) sts before double stitch, turn work, yarn over.
     
    Row 4: (WS) double stitch, purl to marker, slip marker, purl to last 6(7)9(11) sts before double stitch, turn work, yarn over.
     
    Repeat rows 3-4 5 more times. On the next round knit all sts and work the double stitches as if to k2tog.
     
    Switch to the smaller needles and work stockinette st in the round for 2 cm. Make holes for the drawstrings: work stockinette st until 7 sts remain before middle front marker, yo twice, skp, work to marker, slip marker, k5, k2tog, yo twice, work to end.
     
    Work stockinette st for 2 cm. On the first round drop one yo of each pair off the needle.
     
    Purl 1 round with all sts, then work stockinette st for 4 cm. Bind off.
     
     
    Finishing
     
    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry, or steam and shape.
     
    Fold the waist once and sew the bind-off edge to the inside of the piece. Work the leg openings in the same manner.
     
    Sew the crotch seam.
     
    Drawstring: Using the smaller needles cast on 4 sts and knit them. *Do not turn work. Slide the sts back to the right end of the needle. Hold yarn in back and k4.* Repeat *-* until the string measures approx. 120(130(140)150 cm. Break the yarn and pull it through the sts. Weave in the end. Pass the string through the holes.
    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    waist circumference 68(76)84(92) cm / 26¾(30)33(36¼) in
    inner leg length 75(76)77(78) cm / 29½(30)30¼(30¾) in


    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns
    - Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all rows.
    - Stockinette stitch: knit the right side rows and purl the wrong side rows.
     
    Gauge
    28 sts and 36 rows in stockinette st with larger needles = 10 cm / 4 in
     


    Right leg
     
    Using the smaller 40 cm needles cast on 74(80)84(90) sts, place marker for beginning of round and work ribbing in the round for 8 cm. Purl 1 round (fold round), switch to the larger needles and work stockinette st in the round.
     
    When the piece measures 8 cm from the fold round, begin increases: k1, increase 1 st (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), work stockinette st to last st, increase 1 st, k1. Repeat the increases every 2 cm 27(25)22(21) more times and then 10(15)22(25) times every 1 cm = 150(162)174(184) sts.
     
    When the piece measures 75(76)77(78) cm from the fold round, work to last 7(7)9(11) sts of the next round, bind off 7(7)9(11) sts for back crotch, bind off the first 4(4)5(6) sts of the next round for front crotch, work to end of round. Turn work, bind off the first 4(4)4(4) sts for back crotch, purl to end of round. Turn work, bind off the first 2(2)2(2) sts for front crotch, knit to end of round. Place the remaining 133(145)154(161) sts on hold.
     
     
    Left leg
     
    Work like right leg until the piece measures 75(76)77(78) cm from the fold round.
     
    Bind off as follows: work stockinette st to last 4(4)5(6) sts of the next round, bind off 4(4)5(6) sts for front crotch, bind off the first 7(7)9(11) sts of the next round for back crotch, work to end of round. Turn work, bind off the first 2(2)2(2) sts for front crotch, purl to end of round. Turn work, bind off the first 4(4)4(4) sts for back crotch, knit to end of round. Move the remaining 133(145)154(161) sts onto the longer circular needle.
     
     
    Top
     
    Place marker (front midpoint), work the 133(145)154(161) right leg sts onto the same needle, place marker (back midpoint). 266(290)308(322) sts on the needles. The beginning of round is at the back midpoint.
     
    Begin decreases at the middle back and front: *k1, k2tog, work to last 3 sts before marker, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), k1, slip marker*, repeat *-* once more. 4 sts decreased, 262(286)304(318) sts on the needles.
     
    Repeat the decreases every 3rd round 20(24)20(18) more times. 182(190)224(246) sts now on the needles.
     
    When the top measures 22(23)23(24) cm from the crotch, shape the back with short rows:
     
    Row 1: (RS) knit the first 51(55)68(77) sts, turn work and yo.
     
    Row 2: (WS) slip 1 and tighten the yarn in the back of the work so the loops of the slipped st and yo come over the needle (= double stitch), purl to marker, slip marker, p51(55)68(77). Turn work, yarn over.
     
    Row 3: (RS) double stitch, knit to marker, slip marker, knit to last 6(7)9(11) sts before double stitch, turn work, yarn over.
     
    Row 4: (WS) double stitch, purl to marker, slip marker, purl to last 6(7)9(11) sts before double stitch, turn work, yarn over.
     
    Repeat rows 3-4 5 more times. On the next round knit all sts and work the double stitches as if to k2tog.
     
    Switch to the smaller needles and work stockinette st in the round for 2 cm. Make holes for the drawstrings: work stockinette st until 7 sts remain before middle front marker, yo twice, skp, work to marker, slip marker, k5, k2tog, yo twice, work to end.
     
    Work stockinette st for 2 cm. On the first round drop one yo of each pair off the needle.
     
    Purl 1 round with all sts, then work stockinette st for 4 cm. Bind off.
     
     
    Finishing
     
    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry, or steam and shape.
     
    Fold the waist once and sew the bind-off edge to the inside of the piece. Work the leg openings in the same manner.
     
    Sew the crotch seam.
     
    Drawstring: Using the smaller needles cast on 4 sts and knit them. *Do not turn work. Slide the sts back to the right end of the needle. Hold yarn in back and k4.* Repeat *-* until the string measures approx. 120(130(140)150 cm. Break the yarn and pull it through the sts. Weave in the end. Pass the string through the holes.

    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

    With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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