Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
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Rib in round: *K2,P2,rep from* to end.
Stocking stitch in round: knit all rows.
Fair isle pattern in round: See chart.
28 sts to 10 cm measured over fair isle patt
Using 3mm double-pointed needles and beige yarn cast on 80 sts loosely. Distribute sts evenly over 4 of the 5 needles ( 20 sts on each needle) and, taking care not to twist cast-on edge and using 5th needle, work in rounds as follows: Work in rib in round 12 rnds.
Distribute sts over 4 of the 5 needles as folls: 25sts on 1st needle, 15sts on 2nd needle, 15sts on 3rd needle, 25sts on 4th needle. Change to 3,5mm double-pointed needles. Knit one rnd and at the same time decrease 1 st on 1st needle =79sts.
Beg and ending rows as indicated, cont in patt from chart as folls:
Row 1: (1st needle:) work as indicated in chart from A to B (=24sts), (2nd needle:) from B to C (=15sts), (3rd needle:) from C-D (=15sts), (4th needle:) from D-E (=25sts). Cont in patt and repeat rows 1.-2. until sock meas 15 cm.
Make decreases in the middle of the back of sock as folls: work 3sts, using beige yarn: sl1, K1, psso, work until you have 6sts left on 4th needle, using beige: K2tog, work 4sts. Repeat decreases as indicated every 4th rnd 7 times more =63sts.
Work even until sock meas 32 cm. Last row: work 1st, 2nd and 3rd needle, leave 4th needle unworked.
Heel is worked backwards and forwards in rows, not rounds.
Re-distribute sts of 1st and 4th needle on one needle, leave the rest of the sts on hold.
Turn.
Row1 (WS): work beige sts with beige yarn and purple sts with purple yarn =33sts. Turn.
Row2 (RS): cont working beige sts with beige yarn and purple sts with purple yarn. Turn.
These 2 rows form heel pattern.
Repeat these 2 rows until you have completed 16 rows. Shape heel as foll:
Row1 (RS): Knit in heel pattern 21 sts, K2tog with beige and purple strands held double. Turn.
Row2 (WS): Sl 1, work 9sts in heel patt, P2tog with beige and purple strands held double. Turn.
Row3 (RS): Sl 1, work 9sts in heel patt, K2tog with beige and purple strands held double. Turn.
Repeat rows 2.-3. until you have decreased sts on both sides, 11 sts are left in the middle. End with right side row. These sts form the bottom of the heel. Distribute these sts over 2 needles as folls: 1st needle: 5sts, 4th needle: 6sts. Pick up (alternately 1 st with beige yarn and 1 st with purple yarn) and knit 17sts (pick up new sts from front to back using working yarns) along the left edge of the heel, knit in pattern (following chart) 30 sts on front (3rd and 2nd needle), pick up (alternately 1 st with beige yarn and 1 st with purple yarn) and knit 17 sts along the right edge of the heel.
Re-distribute sts as folls: 22 on 1st needle, 15 sts on 2nd needle, 15sts on 3rd needle, and 23 sts on 4th needle.Cont in heel patt over 1st and 4th needle sts and in fair isle patt over 2nd and 3rd needle =75sts.
Now working in rounds over all sts again, work foot section as folls:
Start decreases as folls: (1st needle:) work 20sts, K2tog, work 30sts of 2nd and 3rd needles, (4th needle:) sl 1, K1, psso, work 21sts. Rep decrease round every 3rd round 5 times =63sts (16sts+15sts+15sts+17sts).
Continue as indicated until foot meas 19cm or 2,5cm less than required lenght.
Round 1: (1st needle:) work 13 sts , K2tog with purple yarn, K1 with beige yarn, 30 sts in pattern from chart, (4th needle:) K1 with beige yarn, *sl 1, K1, psso with purple yarn from* ,work 14sts. =61sts.
Round 2: Work sts as indicated.
Round 3: (1st needle:) work 12 sts , K2tog with purple yarn, K1 with beige yarn, (2nd needle:) K1 with beige yarn, *sl 1, K1, psso with purple yarn from*, (3rd needle:) work 12 sts , K2tog with purple yarn, K1 with beige yarn, (4th needle:) K1 with beige yarn, *sl 1, K1, psso with purple yarn from* ,work 13sts. =57sts.
Round 4: Work sts as indicated.
Rep decreases as indicated in rnds 3.-4. 6 times =33sts.
Rep decreases as indicated in rnd 3. every rnd 5 times =13sts.
Break yarn leaving a long end. Pull end through all sts and tighten it. Weave in all ends.
Lightly steam the socks.
Rib in round: *K2,P2,rep from* to end.
Stocking stitch in round: knit all rows.
Fair isle pattern in round: See chart.
28 sts to 10 cm measured over fair isle patt
Using 3mm double-pointed needles and beige yarn cast on 80 sts loosely. Distribute sts evenly over 4 of the 5 needles ( 20 sts on each needle) and, taking care not to twist cast-on edge and using 5th needle, work in rounds as follows: Work in rib in round 12 rnds.
Distribute sts over 4 of the 5 needles as folls: 25sts on 1st needle, 15sts on 2nd needle, 15sts on 3rd needle, 25sts on 4th needle. Change to 3,5mm double-pointed needles. Knit one rnd and at the same time decrease 1 st on 1st needle =79sts.
Beg and ending rows as indicated, cont in patt from chart as folls:
Row 1: (1st needle:) work as indicated in chart from A to B (=24sts), (2nd needle:) from B to C (=15sts), (3rd needle:) from C-D (=15sts), (4th needle:) from D-E (=25sts). Cont in patt and repeat rows 1.-2. until sock meas 15 cm.
Make decreases in the middle of the back of sock as folls: work 3sts, using beige yarn: sl1, K1, psso, work until you have 6sts left on 4th needle, using beige: K2tog, work 4sts. Repeat decreases as indicated every 4th rnd 7 times more =63sts.
Work even until sock meas 32 cm. Last row: work 1st, 2nd and 3rd needle, leave 4th needle unworked.
Heel is worked backwards and forwards in rows, not rounds.
Re-distribute sts of 1st and 4th needle on one needle, leave the rest of the sts on hold.
Turn.
Row1 (WS): work beige sts with beige yarn and purple sts with purple yarn =33sts. Turn.
Row2 (RS): cont working beige sts with beige yarn and purple sts with purple yarn. Turn.
These 2 rows form heel pattern.
Repeat these 2 rows until you have completed 16 rows. Shape heel as foll:
Row1 (RS): Knit in heel pattern 21 sts, K2tog with beige and purple strands held double. Turn.
Row2 (WS): Sl 1, work 9sts in heel patt, P2tog with beige and purple strands held double. Turn.
Row3 (RS): Sl 1, work 9sts in heel patt, K2tog with beige and purple strands held double. Turn.
Repeat rows 2.-3. until you have decreased sts on both sides, 11 sts are left in the middle. End with right side row. These sts form the bottom of the heel. Distribute these sts over 2 needles as folls: 1st needle: 5sts, 4th needle: 6sts. Pick up (alternately 1 st with beige yarn and 1 st with purple yarn) and knit 17sts (pick up new sts from front to back using working yarns) along the left edge of the heel, knit in pattern (following chart) 30 sts on front (3rd and 2nd needle), pick up (alternately 1 st with beige yarn and 1 st with purple yarn) and knit 17 sts along the right edge of the heel.
Re-distribute sts as folls: 22 on 1st needle, 15 sts on 2nd needle, 15sts on 3rd needle, and 23 sts on 4th needle.Cont in heel patt over 1st and 4th needle sts and in fair isle patt over 2nd and 3rd needle =75sts.
Now working in rounds over all sts again, work foot section as folls:
Start decreases as folls: (1st needle:) work 20sts, K2tog, work 30sts of 2nd and 3rd needles, (4th needle:) sl 1, K1, psso, work 21sts. Rep decrease round every 3rd round 5 times =63sts (16sts+15sts+15sts+17sts).
Continue as indicated until foot meas 19cm or 2,5cm less than required lenght.
Round 1: (1st needle:) work 13 sts , K2tog with purple yarn, K1 with beige yarn, 30 sts in pattern from chart, (4th needle:) K1 with beige yarn, *sl 1, K1, psso with purple yarn from* ,work 14sts. =61sts.
Round 2: Work sts as indicated.
Round 3: (1st needle:) work 12 sts , K2tog with purple yarn, K1 with beige yarn, (2nd needle:) K1 with beige yarn, *sl 1, K1, psso with purple yarn from*, (3rd needle:) work 12 sts , K2tog with purple yarn, K1 with beige yarn, (4th needle:) K1 with beige yarn, *sl 1, K1, psso with purple yarn from* ,work 13sts. =57sts.
Round 4: Work sts as indicated.
Rep decreases as indicated in rnds 3.-4. 6 times =33sts.
Rep decreases as indicated in rnd 3. every rnd 5 times =13sts.
Break yarn leaving a long end. Pull end through all sts and tighten it. Weave in all ends.
Lightly steam the socks.
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.