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Evening Delight sweater Novita Nordic Wool

As low as €3.30

A warm sweater in half brioche is your best friend on a cold day. Hugs are nice, but sweaters last longer.
Magazine Novita Kesäextra 2020 (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 11
Skill level Intermediate
Evening Delight sweater Novita Nordic Wool
Novita double-pointed needles 20 cm-4.5 mm
€3.30
Novita double-pointed needles 20 cm-5.0 mm
€3.30
Novita circular needles 80 cm-4.5 mm
€3.80
Novita circular needles 80 cm-5.0 mm
€3.80

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Evening Delight sweater Novita Nordic Wool
Evening Delight sweater Novita Nordic Wool

In stock

€3.30

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N02X2011
    Pattern details
    Size
    XS(S)M(L)XL(XXL)

    Yarn demand
    Novita Nordic Wool
    (060) Sand 400(450)500(550)600(650) g


    Needles and other supplies
    Circular needles (80 cm / 32 in) Novita 4½ mm (UK/US 7) and 5 mm (UK 6 / US 8) or sizes needed;
    4½ mm circular needle (40 cm / 16 in) for the neckline;
    4½ mm and 5 mm double-pointed needles for the sleeves

    Designer
    Sari Nordlund

    Details
    Shoulders
     
    Using the larger needles cast on 7 sts and work half brioche flat for 11(13)14(16)17(19) cm. Finish with a WS row. Break yarn and leave the sts on hold on e.g. a piece of scrap yarn.
     
    Knit the other shoulder in the same manner.
     
     
    Back
     
    Pick up sts from the RS of the shoulder piece, starting at the end with the held sts. Use the larger circular needle (80 cm) and pick up and knit 18(21)22(25)27(30) sts along the shoulder. Cast on 29 sts for the neckline and pick up and knit another 18(21)22(25)27(30) sts from the other shoulder, starting at the cast-on edge. 65(71)73(79)83(89) sts on the needles. The cast-on edges of the shoulder pieces are in the middle and the held sts at the outer edges.
     
    Work half brioche flat until the piece measures 13(14)15(16)16(17) cm from the bottom edge of the shoulder pieces. Finish with a WS row.
     
    On the next row work increases for the armholes at both edges: (RS) p1, sl1yo, p1, kyok (= k1, yo, k1 into the same st), work half brioche to last 4 sts, kyok, p1, sl1yo, p1 = 69(75)77(83)87(93) sts.
     
    Work 5 rows in half brioche and then repeat the increases as established = 73(79)81(87)91(97) sts.
     
    Work half brioche flat until the piece measures 17(18)19(20)20(21) cm from the bottom edge of the shoulder pieces. Finish with a WS row. Break yarn and leave the sts on hold on e.g. a piece of scrap yarn.
     
     
    Fronts
     
    Using the larger circular needle (80 cm) pick up and knit 18(21)22(25)27(30) sts from the RS of the right shoulder, turn work and work row 1 of the brioche pattern.
     
    Work half brioche flat and begin increases at the neckline edge: work RS row to last 4 sts, kyok, p1, sl1yo, p1 = 20(23)24(27)29(32) sts.
     
    Repeat the increases as established on every 8th row 2(0)0(0)0(0) more times, on every 10th row 4(6)4(2)2(0) times and every 12th row 0(0)2(4)4(6) times = 32(35)36(39)41(44) sts.
     
    Note: When the armhole measures 13(14)15(16)16(17) cm and you have last worked a WS row, work the armhole increases as on the back piece = 36(39)40(43)45(48) sts.
     
    When the piece measures 17(18)19(20)20(21) cm from the bottom edge of the shoulder piece and you have last worked a WS row, break the yarn and leave the sts on hold.
     
    Left front: mirror the right front. Finish on a WS row and break yarn.
     
     
    Body
     
    Work half brioche in the round starting with round 2: work the 73(79)81(87)91(97) back sts, cast on 3(3)7(7)9(9) sts for the armhole, work the 36(39)40(43)45(48) right front sts, cast on 1 st (front midpoint), work the 36(39)40(43)45(48) left front sts, cast on 3(3)7(7)9(9) sts for the other armhole = 152(164)176(188)200(212) sts.
     
    Work brioche in the round until the piece measures 38,5(39,5)40,5(41,5)43,5(44,5) cm from the armhole.
     
    Switch to the smaller circular needle (80 cm) and work ribbing in the round for 2,5 cm. Loosely bind off in pattern.
     
     
    Sleeves
     
    Use the larger double-pointed needles, or the circular needle if you're using the Magic Loop technique, to pick up sts from around the armhole. Starting at the bottom edge, pick up and knit 26(28)29(31)31(32) sts from the RS of one of the pieces, work half brioche with the 7 shoulder sts (*p1, sl1yo*, repeat *-* 2 more times, p1), pick up and knit 27(29)30(32)32(33) sts from the other piece = 60(64)66(70)70(72) sts.
     
    Work half brioche in the round as instructed, starting with round 2.
     
    When the sleeve measures approx. 2,5 cm and you have last worked round 1, decrease 2 sts on both sides of the beginning of round: p1, knit 3 sts and their yos together (2 sts decreased), work brioche to last 5 sts, knit 3 sts and their yos together through the back loop (2 sts decreased), work the last 2 sts in half brioche.  4 sts decreased, 56(60)62(66)66(68) sts on the needles.
     
    Repeat the decreases as established every 8(8)8(6,5)6,5(6,5) cm (on round 2 in the pattern) 4(4)4(5)5(5) more times = 40(44)46(46)46(48) sts.
     
    When the inner sleeve measures approx. 36(37)38(39)39(40) cm from the underarm and you have last worked round 2, switch to the smaller needles and work ribbing in the round for 5 cm. Bind off in pattern.
     
    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
     
     
    Finishing
     
    Border: Starting at one of the shoulder seams and using the smaller needles pick up and knit sts from the neckline edge for 104(106)110(112)112(116) sts in total. Work ribbing in the round, making sure the middle front st is a knit st. On every other round decrease 1 st on both sides of the middle front st: slip the middle st and the previous st as if to k2tog, k1, pass the slipped sts over.
     
    When the border measures 2 cm, bind off in pattern.
     
    Steam and shape.
    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    body circumference 94(102)110(118)126(134) cm / 37(40¼)43¼(46½)49½(52¾) in (the sweater is loose-fitting)
    length 60(62)64(66)68(70) cm / 23½(24½)25¼(26)26¾(27½) in
    inner sleeve length 41(42)43(44)44(45) cm / 16¼(16½)17(17¼)17¼(17¾) in


    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns
    - Half brioche: Row 1: (WS) *k1, p1*, repeat *-* until 1 st remains, k1. Row 2: (RS) *p1, sl1yo*, repeat *-* until 1 st remains, p1. Row 3: (WS) *k1, purl together the yo and slipped st*, repeat *-* until 1 st remains, k1. Keep repeating rows 2-3.
    - Half brioche in the round: Round 1: *p1, sl1yo*, repeat *-* to end of round. Round 2: *p1, knit together the yo and slipped st*, repeat *-* to end of round. Keep repeating rounds 1-2.
    - Ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*

    Shoulders
     
    Using the larger needles cast on 7 sts and work half brioche flat for 11(13)14(16)17(19) cm. Finish with a WS row. Break yarn and leave the sts on hold on e.g. a piece of scrap yarn.
     
    Knit the other shoulder in the same manner.
     
     
    Back
     
    Pick up sts from the RS of the shoulder piece, starting at the end with the held sts. Use the larger circular needle (80 cm) and pick up and knit 18(21)22(25)27(30) sts along the shoulder. Cast on 29 sts for the neckline and pick up and knit another 18(21)22(25)27(30) sts from the other shoulder, starting at the cast-on edge. 65(71)73(79)83(89) sts on the needles. The cast-on edges of the shoulder pieces are in the middle and the held sts at the outer edges.
     
    Work half brioche flat until the piece measures 13(14)15(16)16(17) cm from the bottom edge of the shoulder pieces. Finish with a WS row.
     
    On the next row work increases for the armholes at both edges: (RS) p1, sl1yo, p1, kyok (= k1, yo, k1 into the same st), work half brioche to last 4 sts, kyok, p1, sl1yo, p1 = 69(75)77(83)87(93) sts.
     
    Work 5 rows in half brioche and then repeat the increases as established = 73(79)81(87)91(97) sts.
     
    Work half brioche flat until the piece measures 17(18)19(20)20(21) cm from the bottom edge of the shoulder pieces. Finish with a WS row. Break yarn and leave the sts on hold on e.g. a piece of scrap yarn.
     
     
    Fronts
     
    Using the larger circular needle (80 cm) pick up and knit 18(21)22(25)27(30) sts from the RS of the right shoulder, turn work and work row 1 of the brioche pattern.
     
    Work half brioche flat and begin increases at the neckline edge: work RS row to last 4 sts, kyok, p1, sl1yo, p1 = 20(23)24(27)29(32) sts.
     
    Repeat the increases as established on every 8th row 2(0)0(0)0(0) more times, on every 10th row 4(6)4(2)2(0) times and every 12th row 0(0)2(4)4(6) times = 32(35)36(39)41(44) sts.
     
    Note: When the armhole measures 13(14)15(16)16(17) cm and you have last worked a WS row, work the armhole increases as on the back piece = 36(39)40(43)45(48) sts.
     
    When the piece measures 17(18)19(20)20(21) cm from the bottom edge of the shoulder piece and you have last worked a WS row, break the yarn and leave the sts on hold.
     
    Left front: mirror the right front. Finish on a WS row and break yarn.
     
     
    Body
     
    Work half brioche in the round starting with round 2: work the 73(79)81(87)91(97) back sts, cast on 3(3)7(7)9(9) sts for the armhole, work the 36(39)40(43)45(48) right front sts, cast on 1 st (front midpoint), work the 36(39)40(43)45(48) left front sts, cast on 3(3)7(7)9(9) sts for the other armhole = 152(164)176(188)200(212) sts.
     
    Work brioche in the round until the piece measures 38,5(39,5)40,5(41,5)43,5(44,5) cm from the armhole.
     
    Switch to the smaller circular needle (80 cm) and work ribbing in the round for 2,5 cm. Loosely bind off in pattern.
     
     
    Sleeves
     
    Use the larger double-pointed needles, or the circular needle if you're using the Magic Loop technique, to pick up sts from around the armhole. Starting at the bottom edge, pick up and knit 26(28)29(31)31(32) sts from the RS of one of the pieces, work half brioche with the 7 shoulder sts (*p1, sl1yo*, repeat *-* 2 more times, p1), pick up and knit 27(29)30(32)32(33) sts from the other piece = 60(64)66(70)70(72) sts.
     
    Work half brioche in the round as instructed, starting with round 2.
     
    When the sleeve measures approx. 2,5 cm and you have last worked round 1, decrease 2 sts on both sides of the beginning of round: p1, knit 3 sts and their yos together (2 sts decreased), work brioche to last 5 sts, knit 3 sts and their yos together through the back loop (2 sts decreased), work the last 2 sts in half brioche.  4 sts decreased, 56(60)62(66)66(68) sts on the needles.
     
    Repeat the decreases as established every 8(8)8(6,5)6,5(6,5) cm (on round 2 in the pattern) 4(4)4(5)5(5) more times = 40(44)46(46)46(48) sts.
     
    When the inner sleeve measures approx. 36(37)38(39)39(40) cm from the underarm and you have last worked round 2, switch to the smaller needles and work ribbing in the round for 5 cm. Bind off in pattern.
     
    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
     
     
    Finishing
     
    Border: Starting at one of the shoulder seams and using the smaller needles pick up and knit sts from the neckline edge for 104(106)110(112)112(116) sts in total. Work ribbing in the round, making sure the middle front st is a knit st. On every other round decrease 1 st on both sides of the middle front st: slip the middle st and the previous st as if to k2tog, k1, pass the slipped sts over.
     
    When the border measures 2 cm, bind off in pattern.
     
    Steam and shape.

    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

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