SPINNING WOOL FIBRE INTO YARN
After shearing, the woollen fleece is sorted and spun into yarn, for example worsted yarn or woollen yarn. In woollen yarn, the fibres are carded but not combed and thus do not lie perfectly parallel, producing an airy, soft and elastic yarn. In worsted yarn, long wool fibres are combed to lie parallel, producing a yarn that is smooth, dense and strong.
The appearance of yarn is greatly affected by not only the quality of wool, but also by the plying used.
A plied yarn is composed of several independent strands of fibre, which are first given a twist of their own, and then twisted together to form a yarn. In a single ply yarn, independent twisted strands cannot be observed.
SINGLE PLY YARN
Single ply yarns are soft and airy, especially when they have a low twist. Novita Natura is a single ply yarn with a low twist.
Plied yarns are denser, but also more durable in use than single ply yarns. Among Novita’s wool yarns, 7 Veljestä, Nalle, Isoveli and Nordic Wool are all plied. Of these, 7 Veljestä and Nalle have a higher twist, making them excellent sock yarns as they are more durable. Isoveli and Nordic Wool have a slightly lower twist, and therefore a softer feel.
Both plied and single ply yarns can have a high or a low twist (or anything in between). A yarn with a high twist has more turns per cm, while a yarn with a low twist has fewer. A high twist produces a strong and sturdy yarn, while a soft twist produces a yarn that is soft and airy.
When yarn is spun, it gets either a Z-twist, which leans towards the right, or an S-twist, which leans towards the left.
When wool is mixed with synthetic fibres, for example polyamide, the yarn becomes stronger and more durable. Because of this, a wool blend yarn is a perfect fit for socks, which require a strong yarn. Novita’s 7 Veljestä, Nalle and Isoveli contain 75% wool and 25% polyamide.