Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
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U.K./AUS Terms
sc- single crochet
ch- chain
dc- double crochet
htr-half treble
tr- treble
dc2tog- (insert hook in next st, yo and pull up lp) twice, yo and draw through all lps on hook- 1dc dec'd.
Work 10ch = foundation chain. 1dc in 2nd ch from hook and then 8dc across to end. 3dc in last ch, 8dc across the other side of the foundation chain, 2dc in last ch (= in the same ch as the first dc of the round) = 22 dc. Place a stitch marker onto the dc in the middle of the 3 double crochet stitches at each end of the chain.
Work in a continuous spiral without joining the beginning and end of each round. Work in the following way: 1dc in each stitch and 1 increase on each side of the stitch with a marker. Increase: 2dc in next st. Four sts will be increased on each round. Work in this way until you have 42 dc. Next, join round by working ss in next dc.
Start following the Diagram I at row 1. 1ch and 1dc in the same st as the ss. 4dc, *2ch, miss 2 dc and 5dc*, repeat *-* 4 more times. 1ch and 1htr in first dc of the round. 6 pattern repeats worked.
Continue following the diagram until you have worked rows 2 - 7 for a total of 3 times. The beginning of the round will move to the right to one side of the sock.
When you have worked the diagram for 3 times, the piece measures about 16 cm. Next, work a space for the heel. You have just worked row 7 and joined the round with a half treble. Working loosely, 26ch. Miss 3 pattern repeats and then 1dc in ch sp of 2 ch on the other side of the sock. Work row 2. 4ch, 1tr, 1ch in same ch sp. Work across to heel space and then (1ch, 1tr, 1ch, 1tr, 1ch) in ch sp of 2 ch. Next, work as shown in Diagram II across the ch sp of 26 ch and join the round with a ss in 3rd st of the next round. 1 pattern repeat increased = 7 pattern repeats.
Keep working as shown before until the leg measures about 15 cm and you have just worked either row 3 or row 6. Then, dc round the edge. Cut yarn.
Afterthought heel
Attach yarn with a 1dc at one end of the heel space. 1dc in each st round the space = 48 dc. Place a stitch marker onto one stitch at each side of the heel space so that there are 22 sts between the markers towards the bottom. Work in a spiral and decrease 1 st on each side of the marked stitch on every following round. Decrease = dc2tog. Continue working these decreases on every round until there is only a tiny gap left. Cut yarn and thread through sts. Pull tight and weave in ends.
Make another sock to match.
Finishing
Steam block gently.
U.K./AUS Terms
sc- single crochet
ch- chain
dc- double crochet
htr-half treble
tr- treble
dc2tog- (insert hook in next st, yo and pull up lp) twice, yo and draw through all lps on hook- 1dc dec'd.
Work 10ch = foundation chain. 1dc in 2nd ch from hook and then 8dc across to end. 3dc in last ch, 8dc across the other side of the foundation chain, 2dc in last ch (= in the same ch as the first dc of the round) = 22 dc. Place a stitch marker onto the dc in the middle of the 3 double crochet stitches at each end of the chain.
Work in a continuous spiral without joining the beginning and end of each round. Work in the following way: 1dc in each stitch and 1 increase on each side of the stitch with a marker. Increase: 2dc in next st. Four sts will be increased on each round. Work in this way until you have 42 dc. Next, join round by working ss in next dc.
Start following the Diagram I at row 1. 1ch and 1dc in the same st as the ss. 4dc, *2ch, miss 2 dc and 5dc*, repeat *-* 4 more times. 1ch and 1htr in first dc of the round. 6 pattern repeats worked.
Continue following the diagram until you have worked rows 2 - 7 for a total of 3 times. The beginning of the round will move to the right to one side of the sock.
When you have worked the diagram for 3 times, the piece measures about 16 cm. Next, work a space for the heel. You have just worked row 7 and joined the round with a half treble. Working loosely, 26ch. Miss 3 pattern repeats and then 1dc in ch sp of 2 ch on the other side of the sock. Work row 2. 4ch, 1tr, 1ch in same ch sp. Work across to heel space and then (1ch, 1tr, 1ch, 1tr, 1ch) in ch sp of 2 ch. Next, work as shown in Diagram II across the ch sp of 26 ch and join the round with a ss in 3rd st of the next round. 1 pattern repeat increased = 7 pattern repeats.
Keep working as shown before until the leg measures about 15 cm and you have just worked either row 3 or row 6. Then, dc round the edge. Cut yarn.
Afterthought heel
Attach yarn with a 1dc at one end of the heel space. 1dc in each st round the space = 48 dc. Place a stitch marker onto one stitch at each side of the heel space so that there are 22 sts between the markers towards the bottom. Work in a spiral and decrease 1 st on each side of the marked stitch on every following round. Decrease = dc2tog. Continue working these decreases on every round until there is only a tiny gap left. Cut yarn and thread through sts. Pull tight and weave in ends.
Make another sock to match.
Finishing
Steam block gently.
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.