Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
Crocheted poncho Novita 7 Veljestä
As low as €6.96
Crocheted from Novita 7 Veljestä, the wintry pastels of this poncho are ideal for a denim style.
Novita Talvi 2018 -lehti (in Finnish)
17
Intermediate
Availability: In stock
N041817
Size
One sizeYarn demand
Novita 7 Veljestä(060) Sand 250 g,
(069) Rye Porridge less than 150 g,
(010) Off White less than 150 g,
(014) Ice less than 100 g and
(053) Berry Porridge less than 100 g
Needles and other supplies
Crochet hook:Novita 5 mm (UK 6 / US H-8) or size needed to obtain gauge
Novita 4½ mm for the neckline (UK 7 / US 7)
Designer
Lea PetäjäUsing the 5 mm hook and the sand-coloured yarn, chain 120 to form the beginning chain and close the ring with 1 sl st.
Row 1: (see chart) ch3 (= 1st tr), 2 tr tog (= work 2 trs up until the last yo and pull through, then pull the yarn through all the sts on the hook) into the 1st ch st, ch1, *skip 1 ch st from the beginning chain, work into the next ch st 3 tr tog (= work 3 trs until the last yo and pull through, then pull the yarn through all the sts on the hook) and ch1*, repeat *-* 13 more times. Skip 1 ch st from the beginning chain and work into the next ch st 3 tr tog + ch4 + 3 tr tog + ch1 (= first corner of the poncho) and repeat *-* 29 times. Skip 1 ch st from the beginning chain and work into the next ch st 3 tr tog + ch4 + 3 tr tog + ch1 (= second corner of the poncho) and repeat *-* 14 times. Switch to the fuchsia yarn and close the row with 1 sl st into the 3rd ch st from the beginning. 62 treble groups in total.
Row 2: using the Rye Porridge yarn, ch4 (= 1st tr + 1 ch st), crochet into each ch st between treble groups 3 tr tog + ch1 and crochet into both corners 3 tr tog + ch4 + 3 tr tog + ch1. Crochet 2 tr tog into the last ch st on the row. Switch to the turquoise yarn and close the row with 1 sl st into the 3rd ch st from the beginning. 64 treble groups now in total.
Row 3: using the Berry Porridge yarn, ch3 (= 1st tr), crochet 2 tr tog into the ch st on the previous row, crochet into each ch st between treble groups 3 tr tog + ch1 and crochet into both corners 3 tr tog + ch4 + 3 tr tog + ch1. Switch to the honey-coloured yarn and close the row with 1 sl st into the 3rd ch st from the beginning. 66 treble groups now in total.
1 treble group increased at both corners on each row.
Now crochet 1 row with Off-white, 1 row with Sand, 1 row with Ice, 1 row with Rye Porridge, 1 row with Off-white.
Now crochet *1 row with Sand, 1 row with Rye Porridge, 1 row with Berry Porridge, 1 row with Off-white, 1 row with Sand, 1 row with Ice, 1 row with Rye Porridge, 1 row with Sand, 1 row with Off-white*. Repeat *-* once more. Break the yarn.
Finishing
Pin the piece to measurements, mist on the wrong side and allow to dry.
Neckline: Using the 4½ mm hook and the Rye Porridge yarn, work 3 rows of double crochet into the neckline edge. Begin at where the shoulder will be. On the 2nd and 3rd rows, work 3 dc together at the corners. Break the yarn.
Tassels: For each tassel, use eight approx. 30 cm long strands of the sand-coloured yarn. Fold the bundle of strands once. Pull the folded end between treble groups at the edge of the poncho. Pull the open end through the folded end and tighten. Attach tassels onto every other space between treble groups on the hem of the poncho.
Finished dimensions
Length at front midpoint approx. 48 cm / 19 in + tassels, 13 cm / 5 inStitch patterns & gauge
Crochet pattern:- Work trebles (tr) following the instructions.
Gauge:
8 treble groups = 12 cm / 4¾ in; 7 rows of trebles = 10 cm / 4 in.
Tip:
When changing colours, crochet the yarn ends into the trebles so you don't have to weave them in.
Using the 5 mm hook and the sand-coloured yarn, chain 120 to form the beginning chain and close the ring with 1 sl st.
Row 1: (see chart) ch3 (= 1st tr), 2 tr tog (= work 2 trs up until the last yo and pull through, then pull the yarn through all the sts on the hook) into the 1st ch st, ch1, *skip 1 ch st from the beginning chain, work into the next ch st 3 tr tog (= work 3 trs until the last yo and pull through, then pull the yarn through all the sts on the hook) and ch1*, repeat *-* 13 more times. Skip 1 ch st from the beginning chain and work into the next ch st 3 tr tog + ch4 + 3 tr tog + ch1 (= first corner of the poncho) and repeat *-* 29 times. Skip 1 ch st from the beginning chain and work into the next ch st 3 tr tog + ch4 + 3 tr tog + ch1 (= second corner of the poncho) and repeat *-* 14 times. Switch to the fuchsia yarn and close the row with 1 sl st into the 3rd ch st from the beginning. 62 treble groups in total.
Row 2: using the Rye Porridge yarn, ch4 (= 1st tr + 1 ch st), crochet into each ch st between treble groups 3 tr tog + ch1 and crochet into both corners 3 tr tog + ch4 + 3 tr tog + ch1. Crochet 2 tr tog into the last ch st on the row. Switch to the turquoise yarn and close the row with 1 sl st into the 3rd ch st from the beginning. 64 treble groups now in total.
Row 3: using the Berry Porridge yarn, ch3 (= 1st tr), crochet 2 tr tog into the ch st on the previous row, crochet into each ch st between treble groups 3 tr tog + ch1 and crochet into both corners 3 tr tog + ch4 + 3 tr tog + ch1. Switch to the honey-coloured yarn and close the row with 1 sl st into the 3rd ch st from the beginning. 66 treble groups now in total.
1 treble group increased at both corners on each row.
Now crochet 1 row with Off-white, 1 row with Sand, 1 row with Ice, 1 row with Rye Porridge, 1 row with Off-white.
Now crochet *1 row with Sand, 1 row with Rye Porridge, 1 row with Berry Porridge, 1 row with Off-white, 1 row with Sand, 1 row with Ice, 1 row with Rye Porridge, 1 row with Sand, 1 row with Off-white*. Repeat *-* once more. Break the yarn.
Finishing
Pin the piece to measurements, mist on the wrong side and allow to dry.
Neckline: Using the 4½ mm hook and the Rye Porridge yarn, work 3 rows of double crochet into the neckline edge. Begin at where the shoulder will be. On the 2nd and 3rd rows, work 3 dc together at the corners. Break the yarn.
Tassels: For each tassel, use eight approx. 30 cm long strands of the sand-coloured yarn. Fold the bundle of strands once. Pull the folded end between treble groups at the edge of the poncho. Pull the open end through the folded end and tighten. Attach tassels onto every other space between treble groups on the hem of the poncho.
This pattern is publish in the latest issue of Novita Magazine. You can buy your own copy here
Beginner
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Technique
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
Patterns
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Adventurous beginner
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Technique
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
Intermediate
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
Technique
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Advanced
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
Technique
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Gauge and Swatching
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
Adjusting gauge
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.
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