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Crocheted pillowcase Novita Wool Cotton and Nordic Wool

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The pillowcase is crocheted from hexagon-shaped pieces. The sky's the limit when it comes to possible colour combinations: use saffron as the main colour to add some spice, or powder for a soft look. Crocheted from Novita Wool Cotton.
Magazine Novita Syksy 2018 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 27
Skill level Intermediate
Crocheted pillowcase Novita Wool Cotton and Nordic Wool
€4.50
€4.50

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Crocheted pillowcase Novita Wool Cotton and Nordic Wool
Crocheted pillowcase Novita Wool Cotton and Nordic Wool

In stock

€0.00

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N031827
    Pattern details
    Size
    One size

    Yarn demand
    Novita Wool Cotton
    (010) Off-white 350 g and
    (402) Putty,
    (602) Powder,
    (532) Pomegranate, less than 50 g each.

    Novita Nordic Wool
    (287) Saffron and
    (048) Rock, less than 50 g each.

    Needles and other supplies
    Crochet hook:
    Novita 3–3½ mm (UK 9–11 / US D-3 or E-4)
    or size needed

    Other supplies:
    pillow, 60 cm x 40 cm / 23½ in x 15¾ in

    Designer
    Therese Hagstedt

    Details

    Hexagon

    (see chart I)

    Using any other yarn than off-white, chain 4 (ch st) and work 1 slip stitch (sl st) into the first ch st to close the loop.

    Round 1: Ch2 (= 1st treble of the row), work 2 trebles (tr) into the loop, *ch1, 3 trs*, repeat *–* 4 more times, ch1. Close the round with 1 sl st into the 2nd chain from the beginning. 6 treble groups in total.

    Break the yarn and pull it through the st. Place the yarn onto the WS along the edge and crochet over it on the next row. Insert the hook under the ch st between the next two tr groups, pulling the off-white yarn onto the RS. Place the end of the off-white yarn along the edge as you did the previous colour and crochet over the ends on the next row.

    Round 2: Ch2 (= 1st tr), + 1 tr + ch2 + 2 trs around the same chain, *skip 3 trs, work 2 trs around the next chain + ch2 + 2 trs*, repeat *–* 4 more times and close the round with 1 sl st into the 2nd chain from the beginning.

    Round 3: Ch2 (= 1st tr), 1 tr into the tr on the previous row, on each corner work 2 trs around the 2 st chain between the trs + ch2 + 2 trs, and work 1 tr into each tr on the sides. Close the round with 1 sl st into the 2nd chain from the beginning.

    Work the next hexagon in the same manner, using a different colour on the 1st row. Following the red markings on chart I, join the pieces with sl sts on two corners and one side: 2 trs in the corner, ch1, work 1 sl st into the corner of the previous piece around 2 ch sts, ch1, 2 trs. 2 trs on the side, 1 sl st into the same spot on the previous piece, 2 trs.

    Working in the same manner, join 16 hexagon-shaped pieces to form row 1 of chart II. Make sure to use different colours for the middle of the pieces.

    Continue in the same manner and crochet rows 2–5. Attach the pieces to the previous row as you work following the blue and green markings on chart I.

    Continuing in the same manner, work 8 pieces to form row 6. Attach the pieces to the top edge of row 5 on both sides of the pillowcase following chart II.

    Finishing

    Lightly steam the pillowcase.

    Place the pillow into the pillowcase.

    Working in the established manner, work 8 pieces to form row 7. Attach the pieces to the lower edge of row 1 on both sides of the pillowcase following chart II.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    approx. 60 cm x 40 cm / 23½ in x 15¾ in

    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Size of one hexagon-shaped piece:
    One side approx. 4 cm / 1½ in,
    corner-to-corner width approx. 8,5 cm / 3¼ in,
    side-to-side width approx. 7,5 cm / 3 in

    Hexagon

    (see chart I)

    Using any other yarn than off-white, chain 4 (ch st) and work 1 slip stitch (sl st) into the first ch st to close the loop.

    Round 1: Ch2 (= 1st treble of the row), work 2 trebles (tr) into the loop, *ch1, 3 trs*, repeat *–* 4 more times, ch1. Close the round with 1 sl st into the 2nd chain from the beginning. 6 treble groups in total.

    Break the yarn and pull it through the st. Place the yarn onto the WS along the edge and crochet over it on the next row. Insert the hook under the ch st between the next two tr groups, pulling the off-white yarn onto the RS. Place the end of the off-white yarn along the edge as you did the previous colour and crochet over the ends on the next row.

    Round 2: Ch2 (= 1st tr), + 1 tr + ch2 + 2 trs around the same chain, *skip 3 trs, work 2 trs around the next chain + ch2 + 2 trs*, repeat *–* 4 more times and close the round with 1 sl st into the 2nd chain from the beginning.

    Round 3: Ch2 (= 1st tr), 1 tr into the tr on the previous row, on each corner work 2 trs around the 2 st chain between the trs + ch2 + 2 trs, and work 1 tr into each tr on the sides. Close the round with 1 sl st into the 2nd chain from the beginning.

    Work the next hexagon in the same manner, using a different colour on the 1st row. Following the red markings on chart I, join the pieces with sl sts on two corners and one side: 2 trs in the corner, ch1, work 1 sl st into the corner of the previous piece around 2 ch sts, ch1, 2 trs. 2 trs on the side, 1 sl st into the same spot on the previous piece, 2 trs.

    Working in the same manner, join 16 hexagon-shaped pieces to form row 1 of chart II. Make sure to use different colours for the middle of the pieces.

    Continue in the same manner and crochet rows 2–5. Attach the pieces to the previous row as you work following the blue and green markings on chart I.

    Continuing in the same manner, work 8 pieces to form row 6. Attach the pieces to the top edge of row 5 on both sides of the pillowcase following chart II.

    Finishing

    Lightly steam the pillowcase.

    Place the pillow into the pillowcase.

    Working in the established manner, work 8 pieces to form row 7. Attach the pieces to the lower edge of row 1 on both sides of the pillowcase following chart II.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

    With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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