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Crocheted Lapland boots Novita 7 Veljestä

Crocheted Lapland boots Novita 7 Veljestä

As low as €2.10

These traditional Lapland boots got new graphic colouring. Knitted with Novita 7 Veljestä.
Magazine Novita Talvi 2018 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 9
Skill level Expert
Crocheted Lapland boots Novita 7 Veljestä
€5.50
€5.50
€5.50
€5.50
Novita crochet hook 15 cm -4.5 mm
€2.10

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Crocheted Lapland boots Novita 7 Veljestä
Crocheted Lapland boots Novita 7 Veljestä

In stock

€2.10

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N04189
    Pattern details
    Size
    women

    Yarn demand
    Novita 7 Veljestä
    (010) Off-white 100 g,
    (099) Black less than 100 g,
    (047) Lichen less than 50 g and
    (043) Stone less than 50 g

    Needles and other supplies
    Crochet hook:
    Novita 4½ mm

    Double-pointed needles:
    Novita 4 mm or the size needed

    Designer
    Novita

    Details

    Cuff

    Using the black yarn chain 56 sts (ch st) and join the chain into a circle with a slip st (sl st). Crochet 6 rows of slip sts and pick up only the back loop of the st. Then begin the colourwork pattern from the chart (or follow the written pattern below): The colourwork stitches are worked through the front loop only.

    Row 1: Work *1 st with the off-white yarn and 3 sts with the black yarn*, repeat *–*. Note: 1 st remains unworked on each row, this st will be the 1st st of the next row.

    Row 2: Work *2 sts with the off-white yarn and 2 sts with the black yarn*, repeat *–*.

    Row 3: Work *3 sts with off-white and 1 st with the black*, repeat *–*.

    Row 4: Switch the black yarn to the stone yarn. Work *1 st with stone, 3 sts with off-white*, repeat *–*.

    Row 5: Work *2 sts with stone, 2 sts with off-white*, repeat *–*.

    Row 6: *3 sts with stone, 1 st with off-white*, repeat *–*.

    Row 7: Switch the off-white yarn to lichen. Work *1 st with lichen, 3 sts with stone*, repeat *–*.

    Row 8: Work *2 sts with lichen, 2 sts with stone*, repeat *–*.

    Row 9: Work *3 sts with lichen, 1 st with stone*, repeat *–*.

    Row 10: Switch the stone yarn to the black yarn. Work *1 st with black, 3 sts with lichen*, repeat *–*.

    Row 11: Work *2 sts with black, 2 sts with lichen*, repeat *–*.

    Row 12: Work *3 sts with black, 1 st with lichen*, repeat *–*.

    Row 13: Work 56 sts with the black yarn. Work 1 row of double crochet (dc) with the black yarn, and pick up both legs of the st.

    Instep

    Using the black yarn, pick up 12 sts from the front of the cuff. Determine the number of decreases: put on the cuff and measure the length needed for the instep from the bottom of the cuff to the tip of the big toe. Divide this by 5 to get the interval between decreases, e.g. 14 cm : 5 = 2,8 cm. Work in reverse stockinette st and decrease 5x1 st at both ends next to the outermost st every 2,8 cm. Pull the yarn through two sts.

    Edges

    Using the off-white yarn, work 1 row of dc onto the bottom edge of the cuff and the edge of the instep. On the leg, work dc into the front and back leg of the sts. Then work 1 row of dc with the stone yarn, picking up the back leg of the st. Work 1 more row of dc with the black yarn and make sure the number of sts is divisible by 4.

    Begin the colourwork:

    Row 1: *1 st off-white, 3 sts black*, repeat *–*.

    Row 2: *2 sts off-white, 2 sts black*, repeat *–*.

    Row 3: *3 sts off-white, 1 st black*, repeat *–*.

    Row 4: *1 st black, 3 sts off-white*, repeat *–*.

    Row 5: *2 sts black, 2 sts off-white*, repeat *–*.

    Row 6: *3 sts black, 1 st off-white*, repeat *–*.

    Row 7: Work 116 sts with the black yarn. Work 1 row with the off-white yarn.

    Sole

    Crochet slip sts (sl st) onto the edge of the border. First mark the midpoints of the heel and the toe. Using the off-white yarn work as established and work decreases on both sides of the marked center sts (=C):

    Row 1: work without decreases.

    Row 2: crochet 2 sts together, work 6 sts, work the center st, work 6 sts, crochet 2 sts together.

    Row 3: work without decreases.

    Row 4: crochet 2 sts together, work 5 sts, C, work 5 sts, 2 sts together.

    Row 5: 2 sts together, work 4 sts, C, work 4 sts, 2 sts together.

    Row 6: 2 sts together, work 3 sts, C, work 3 sts, 2 sts together.

    Row 7: 2 sts together, work 2 sts, C, work 2 sts, 2 sts together.

    Row 8: 2 sts together, work 1 st, crochet 3 sts together, work 1 st, 2 sts together.

    Row 9: 2 sts together, work 1 st, 2 sts together.

    Row 10: crochet 3 sts together.

    Finishing

    Close the seam on the bottom either by sewing or by crocheting.

    Steam the boots lightly.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    size: women

    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Crochet patterns:
    - Crochet slip stitches (sl st). Insert the crochet hook into the st picking up only the front loop.
    - Crochet colourwork:
    Crochet following the chart and the written instructions.

    Stitch pattern:
    - Reverse stockinette stitch:
    On the right side rows purl all sts, on the wrong side rows knit all sts.

    Cuff

    Using the black yarn chain 56 sts (ch st) and join the chain into a circle with a slip st (sl st). Crochet 6 rows of slip sts and pick up only the back loop of the st. Then begin the colourwork pattern from the chart (or follow the written pattern below): The colourwork stitches are worked through the front loop only.

    Row 1: Work *1 st with the off-white yarn and 3 sts with the black yarn*, repeat *–*. Note: 1 st remains unworked on each row, this st will be the 1st st of the next row.

    Row 2: Work *2 sts with the off-white yarn and 2 sts with the black yarn*, repeat *–*.

    Row 3: Work *3 sts with off-white and 1 st with the black*, repeat *–*.

    Row 4: Switch the black yarn to the stone yarn. Work *1 st with stone, 3 sts with off-white*, repeat *–*.

    Row 5: Work *2 sts with stone, 2 sts with off-white*, repeat *–*.

    Row 6: *3 sts with stone, 1 st with off-white*, repeat *–*.

    Row 7: Switch the off-white yarn to lichen. Work *1 st with lichen, 3 sts with stone*, repeat *–*.

    Row 8: Work *2 sts with lichen, 2 sts with stone*, repeat *–*.

    Row 9: Work *3 sts with lichen, 1 st with stone*, repeat *–*.

    Row 10: Switch the stone yarn to the black yarn. Work *1 st with black, 3 sts with lichen*, repeat *–*.

    Row 11: Work *2 sts with black, 2 sts with lichen*, repeat *–*.

    Row 12: Work *3 sts with black, 1 st with lichen*, repeat *–*.

    Row 13: Work 56 sts with the black yarn. Work 1 row of double crochet (dc) with the black yarn, and pick up both legs of the st.

    Instep

    Using the black yarn, pick up 12 sts from the front of the cuff. Determine the number of decreases: put on the cuff and measure the length needed for the instep from the bottom of the cuff to the tip of the big toe. Divide this by 5 to get the interval between decreases, e.g. 14 cm : 5 = 2,8 cm. Work in reverse stockinette st and decrease 5x1 st at both ends next to the outermost st every 2,8 cm. Pull the yarn through two sts.

    Edges

    Using the off-white yarn, work 1 row of dc onto the bottom edge of the cuff and the edge of the instep. On the leg, work dc into the front and back leg of the sts. Then work 1 row of dc with the stone yarn, picking up the back leg of the st. Work 1 more row of dc with the black yarn and make sure the number of sts is divisible by 4.

    Begin the colourwork:

    Row 1: *1 st off-white, 3 sts black*, repeat *–*.

    Row 2: *2 sts off-white, 2 sts black*, repeat *–*.

    Row 3: *3 sts off-white, 1 st black*, repeat *–*.

    Row 4: *1 st black, 3 sts off-white*, repeat *–*.

    Row 5: *2 sts black, 2 sts off-white*, repeat *–*.

    Row 6: *3 sts black, 1 st off-white*, repeat *–*.

    Row 7: Work 116 sts with the black yarn. Work 1 row with the off-white yarn.

    Sole

    Crochet slip sts (sl st) onto the edge of the border. First mark the midpoints of the heel and the toe. Using the off-white yarn work as established and work decreases on both sides of the marked center sts (=C):

    Row 1: work without decreases.

    Row 2: crochet 2 sts together, work 6 sts, work the center st, work 6 sts, crochet 2 sts together.

    Row 3: work without decreases.

    Row 4: crochet 2 sts together, work 5 sts, C, work 5 sts, 2 sts together.

    Row 5: 2 sts together, work 4 sts, C, work 4 sts, 2 sts together.

    Row 6: 2 sts together, work 3 sts, C, work 3 sts, 2 sts together.

    Row 7: 2 sts together, work 2 sts, C, work 2 sts, 2 sts together.

    Row 8: 2 sts together, work 1 st, crochet 3 sts together, work 1 st, 2 sts together.

    Row 9: 2 sts together, work 1 st, 2 sts together.

    Row 10: crochet 3 sts together.

    Finishing

    Close the seam on the bottom either by sewing or by crocheting.

    Steam the boots lightly.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

    With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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