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Crochet Poncho Novita 7 Brothers

Crochet Poncho Novita 7 Brothers

As low as €2.10

Knitted collar gives this crochet poncho a finishing touch.
Magazine Novita Syksy 2016 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 14
Skill level Intermediate
Crochet Poncho Novita 7 Brothers
€4.90
€4.90
€4.90
€4.90
€4.90
Novita crochet hook 15 cm -5.0 mm
€2.10

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Crochet Poncho Novita 7 Brothers
Crochet Poncho Novita 7 Brothers

In stock

€2.10

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N031614
    Like
    Pattern details
    Size
    one size

    Yarn demand
    Novita 7 Veljestä (7 Brothers)
    A - lichen 400 g
    B - turquoise 100 g
    C - honey 50 g
    D - fuchsia 50 g
    E - cyclamen 50 g

    Needles and other supplies
    Hook:
    1 x 5.0 mm Novita Crochet hook
    Needles:
    1 x 4.5 mm (40 cm) Novita circular needle for the collar
    Or the size required to give the correct tension.

    Designer
    Lea Petäjä

    Details

    Setting up row

    Using yarn A, work loosely 120ch and ss into first ch to join to work in the round.

    Round 1 (see the stitch diagram): work 3ch (corresponding to first tr), yarn over hook (yoh), insert hook into fourth chain stitch from the hook, yoh and pull through to the front, yoh and pull through 2 loops, yoh, insert hook into the same ch stitch, yoh and pull through to the front, yoh and pull through 2 loops yoh and pull through all loops on the hook (first 3trcl), 1ch. *Miss 1 ch st, yoh, insert hook into next ch stitch, yoh and pull through to the front, yoh and pull through 2 loops, yoh, insert hook into the same ch stitch, yoh and pull through to the front, yoh and pull through 2 loops, yoh, insert hook into the same ch stitch, yoh and pull through to the front, yoh and pull through 2 loops, yoh and pull through all loops on the hook, 1ch (second 3trcl).* Repeat *-* 13 more times. Miss 1 st, work into next ch stitch 3trcl, 4ch, 3trcl, 1ch (first corner of the poncho). Repeat *-* 29 times. Miss 1 st, 3trcl, 4ch, 3trcl, 1ch (second corner). Repeat *-* 14 times. Change to yarn D and close the round by working 1ss into the third ch of the round. You have now 62 treble clusters.

    Round 2: Using yarn D, work 4ch (= first tr + 1 ch), work 3trcl + 1ch into each chain space between two treble clusters of the previous round and 3trcl + 4ch + 3trcl + 1ch at each corner. When you have one ch stitch left, work 2trcl. Change to yarn B and close the round by working 1ss into the third ch of the round. You have now 64 treble clusters.

    Round 3: Using yarn B, work 3ch (= first tr) and work 2trcl into ch st of the previous round. Continue by working one 3trcl + 1ch into each chain space between two treble clusters of the previous round and 3trcl + 4ch + 3trcl + 1ch at each corner. At the end of the round change to yarn C and close the round by working 1ss into the third ch of the round. You have now 66 treble clusters.

    The number of treble clusters at each corner increases by one on every round.

    Continue in the following manner: work 1 round with yarn C, 2 rounds with yarn A, 1 round with yarn B, 1 round with yarn E, 1 round with yarn C, 1 round with yarn D, 2 rounds with yarn A, *1 round with yarn B, 1 round with yarn E, 1 round with yarn A, 1 round with yarn D, 1 round with yarn B, 1 round with yarn C and 2 rounds with yarn A*. Repeat *-* once. Cut yarn.

    Finishing

    Lay the piece to measures on a flat surface with the WS facing up, wet with a spray bottle and let dry.

    Collar: Using circular needle and yarn A, pick up and knit one 1 st per each chain stitch of the setting up row = 120 sts. Work 24 cm in rib stitch in the round and cast off all sts in rib stitch.

    Fringe: For one fringe tassel, cut eight strands of yarn A of about 30 cm each. Keeping the strands together fold them in half, pull the folded end through a space between two treble clusters at one corner of the poncho. Pull the loose ends through the folded end and tighten up. Attach one tassel at every other space between the treble clusters.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    Centre front length about 48 cm + fringe 13 cm

    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Crochet stitch patterns:
    - Follow the stitch diagram and written instructions.

    Knitting stitch patterns:
    - Rib stitch in the round
    All rounds: *K2, p2*, repeat *-*.

    Tension:
    8 treble groups = 12 cm; 7 treble rounds = 10 cm

    Tip
    To keep weaving in ends to minimum, work loose ends into the treble groups as you go when you change colours.


    Setting up row

    Using yarn A, work loosely 120ch and ss into first ch to join to work in the round.

    Round 1 (see the stitch diagram): work 3ch (corresponding to first tr), yarn over hook (yoh), insert hook into fourth chain stitch from the hook, yoh and pull through to the front, yoh and pull through 2 loops, yoh, insert hook into the same ch stitch, yoh and pull through to the front, yoh and pull through 2 loops yoh and pull through all loops on the hook (first 3trcl), 1ch. *Miss 1 ch st, yoh, insert hook into next ch stitch, yoh and pull through to the front, yoh and pull through 2 loops, yoh, insert hook into the same ch stitch, yoh and pull through to the front, yoh and pull through 2 loops, yoh, insert hook into the same ch stitch, yoh and pull through to the front, yoh and pull through 2 loops, yoh and pull through all loops on the hook, 1ch (second 3trcl).* Repeat *-* 13 more times. Miss 1 st, work into next ch stitch 3trcl, 4ch, 3trcl, 1ch (first corner of the poncho). Repeat *-* 29 times. Miss 1 st, 3trcl, 4ch, 3trcl, 1ch (second corner). Repeat *-* 14 times. Change to yarn D and close the round by working 1ss into the third ch of the round. You have now 62 treble clusters.

    Round 2: Using yarn D, work 4ch (= first tr + 1 ch), work 3trcl + 1ch into each chain space between two treble clusters of the previous round and 3trcl + 4ch + 3trcl + 1ch at each corner. When you have one ch stitch left, work 2trcl. Change to yarn B and close the round by working 1ss into the third ch of the round. You have now 64 treble clusters.

    Round 3: Using yarn B, work 3ch (= first tr) and work 2trcl into ch st of the previous round. Continue by working one 3trcl + 1ch into each chain space between two treble clusters of the previous round and 3trcl + 4ch + 3trcl + 1ch at each corner. At the end of the round change to yarn C and close the round by working 1ss into the third ch of the round. You have now 66 treble clusters.

    The number of treble clusters at each corner increases by one on every round.

    Continue in the following manner: work 1 round with yarn C, 2 rounds with yarn A, 1 round with yarn B, 1 round with yarn E, 1 round with yarn C, 1 round with yarn D, 2 rounds with yarn A, *1 round with yarn B, 1 round with yarn E, 1 round with yarn A, 1 round with yarn D, 1 round with yarn B, 1 round with yarn C and 2 rounds with yarn A*. Repeat *-* once. Cut yarn.

    Finishing

    Lay the piece to measures on a flat surface with the WS facing up, wet with a spray bottle and let dry.

    Collar: Using circular needle and yarn A, pick up and knit one 1 st per each chain stitch of the setting up row = 120 sts. Work 24 cm in rib stitch in the round and cast off all sts in rib stitch.

    Fringe: For one fringe tassel, cut eight strands of yarn A of about 30 cm each. Keeping the strands together fold them in half, pull the folded end through a space between two treble clusters at one corner of the poncho. Pull the loose ends through the folded end and tighten up. Attach one tassel at every other space between the treble clusters.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Here you find size guides for your knitting projects!




     
     




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