Crochet Granny Square Blanket Novita 7 Brothers

As low as €6.96

Crochet Granny Square Blanket of Novita 7 Brothers yarn.
Novita Syksy 2016 -lehti (in Finnish)
24
Intermediate
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    Availability: In stock

    N031624
    Size
    One size

    Yarn demand
    Novita 7 Veljestä (7 Brothers)
    main colour (MC) (060) Sand or (588) Cherry 600 g
    1st contrasting colour (CC1) (588) Cherry or (060) Sand 300 g,
    2nd contrasting colour (CC2) (371) Evergreen or (289) Honey 200 g and
    3rd contrasting colour (CC3) (289) Honey or (371) Evergreen 150 g

    Needles and other supplies
    Crochet hook:
    Novita 4-4½ mm or the size needed and for the border a crochet hook 0,5 mm smaller than the one used.

    Designer
    Novita

    Granny Square

    Using MC, make 6ch, join into ring with 1ss into first ch.

    Round 1: 3ch (= first tr of the round), 2tr into ring, *3ch, 3tr*, repeat *-* twice, 3ch, attach CC3 and join to third of 3ch at beg of row with 1ss. You have now 4 tr groups on first round.

    Round 2: 4ch, *3tr, 3ch, 3tr, 1 ch* in next ch sp, repeat *-* twice, 3tr, 3ch, 2tr. Attach CC2 and join to third of 4ch at beg of row with 1ss.

    Round 3: 3ch, 2tr in next side sp, 1ch, *(3tr, 3ch, 3tr, 1 ch) in next ch sp, (3tr, 1ch) in next side sp*, repeat *-* twice, 3tr, 3ch, 3tr, 1ch in next ch sp. Attach CC1, join round with 1ss.

    Continue by working rounds 4-6 of the stitch diagram.

    Work 70 granny squares as shown here. The finished throw has 7 x 10 squares.

    Finishing

    Steam block the squares gently. Join squares together using MC: Lay the squares flat on the table with the WS facing and join them together stitch by stitch by sewing them together or by crocheting them together using crocheted slip stitch. Darn in ends.

    When all the pieces are joined together, finish the edge in the following way: Using MC and smaller hook, dc round all four sides, join by 1ss. Next, work a picot edging in the following way: 4ch, 1ss in second of 4ch, 2dc, *3ch, 1ss in first of 3ch, 2ds*, repeat *-* round all four sides.

    Steam block the throw very gently or lay it to measures on a flat surface, wet with a spray bottle and let dry.

    Finished dimensions
    Finished measurements about 120 x 170 cm

    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Crochet stitch patterns:
    Follow the stitch diagram and written instructions.

    Tension:
    One finished granny square is about 15 x 15 cm (see the stitch diagram)

    Tip
    To keep darning in ends to minimum, work the loose ends into the work as you go by crocheting over the ends when changing colour.

    Granny Square

    Using MC, make 6ch, join into ring with 1ss into first ch.

    Round 1: 3ch (= first tr of the round), 2tr into ring, *3ch, 3tr*, repeat *-* twice, 3ch, attach CC3 and join to third of 3ch at beg of row with 1ss. You have now 4 tr groups on first round.

    Round 2: 4ch, *3tr, 3ch, 3tr, 1 ch* in next ch sp, repeat *-* twice, 3tr, 3ch, 2tr. Attach CC2 and join to third of 4ch at beg of row with 1ss.

    Round 3: 3ch, 2tr in next side sp, 1ch, *(3tr, 3ch, 3tr, 1 ch) in next ch sp, (3tr, 1ch) in next side sp*, repeat *-* twice, 3tr, 3ch, 3tr, 1ch in next ch sp. Attach CC1, join round with 1ss.

    Continue by working rounds 4-6 of the stitch diagram.

    Work 70 granny squares as shown here. The finished throw has 7 x 10 squares.

    Finishing

    Steam block the squares gently. Join squares together using MC: Lay the squares flat on the table with the WS facing and join them together stitch by stitch by sewing them together or by crocheting them together using crocheted slip stitch. Darn in ends.

    When all the pieces are joined together, finish the edge in the following way: Using MC and smaller hook, dc round all four sides, join by 1ss. Next, work a picot edging in the following way: 4ch, 1ss in second of 4ch, 2dc, *3ch, 1ss in first of 3ch, 2ds*, repeat *-* round all four sides.

    Steam block the throw very gently or lay it to measures on a flat surface, wet with a spray bottle and let dry.


    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

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