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Crochet backpack Novita Muumit

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Pack your picnic items in this crochet backpack and you're all set for a summer outing.
Magazine Novita Kesä 2019 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 15
Skill level Intermediate
- +

 

Availability:In stock
SKU N021915
Pattern details
Size
one size

Yarn demand
Novita Muumit
(507) Snorkmaiden 150 g

Needles and other supplies
Crochet hook
Novita 3 mm (UK 11 / US C-2 or D-3) or size needed for gauge;
for the drawstring 2 double-pointed needles 3 mm (UK 11 / US 2½)

Designer
Lea Petäjä

Details

Front square (see chart)

Chain 4 (ch) and close into a ring with 1 sl st into first ch.

Row 1: Ch3 (= 1st tr), work 15 trebles (tr) into the ring = 16 tr. Close round with 1 sl st into 3rd ch from beginning.

Row 2: ch3 (= 1st tr), 1 tr into base of chain, then 2 tr into each tr on previous row. Close round with 1 sl st.

Row 3: ch4 (= 1st tr + 1 ch st), then 1 tr + ch1 into each tr on previous row. Close round with 1 sl st.

Work rows 4-11 of the chart.

Rows 12-14: ch3 (= 1st tr), 1 tr into each tr on previous row and 2 tr + ch3 + 2 tr into each chain at the corners. Close round with 1 sl st. Break the yarn.

Top of the square

Join yarn with 1 dc into the right-hand corner on the RS.

Row 1: ch2 (1st tr), 1 tr into each tr and 2 tr into the chain at the left corner. Turn work.

Row 2: ch3 (1st tr), 1 tr into each tr. Turn work. Break the yarn.

Base and back piece

Join yarn with 1 dc into the bottom corner of the square on the RS.

Row 1: ch2 (1st tr), 1 tr into each tr and 2 tr into the chain at the left corner. Turn work.

Row 2: ch3 (1st tr), 1 tr into each tr. Turn work.

Row 3: ch3 (1st tr), 1 tr into the back loop of each tr on previous row. The piece is folded in between rows 2 and 3. Turn work.

Row 4: ch3 (1st tr), 1 tr into each tr. Turn work.

Repeat row 4 28 more times. Break the yarn.

Fold the backpack once with WS facing. Sew the side seams on the RS with back stitches.

Top

Join yarn with 1 dc into the RS on one of the side seams.

Row 1 (with holes): ch3 (1st tr + 1 ch st), *skip 1 st, 1 tr + ch1 into next st*, repeat *-* and close the round with 1 sl st.

Row 2: ch3 (1st tr), 1 tr into each tr and ch st. Close round with 1 sl st. Break the yarn.

Shoulder straps

Ch5, making sure to leave extra yarn for attaching the strap.

Row 1: 1 dc into 2nd ch from hook, 3 dc = 4 dc. Turn work.

Row 2: Ch1, 4 dc. Turn work.

Keep repeating row 2 until the shoulder strap measures approx. 33 cm. Break the yarn, leaving a long tail for attaching the strap.

Work the other shoulder strap in the same manner.

Finishing

Turn the backpack inside out (WS facing out). Sew 4 cm cross seams at the bottom corners.

Turn the RS out. Sew one end of each shoulder strap to the centre of the back piece, next to each other, 3 rows below the top edge.

Sew the other ends 3 rows above the bottom edge, 3 cm from the side seams.

Drawstring: Cast on 3 sts and knit them. *Do not turn work. Move sts to other end of needle and knit them.* Repeat *-*, working RS rows only without turning work. Continue until the string measures approx. 100 cm. Break yarn, pass it through the sts and tighten. Tie knots at the ends of the string and pass it through the row of holes at the top.

Pattern instructions
Finished dimensions
Height approx. 32 cm / 13 in; width 27 cm / 11 in

Stitch patterns & gauge
Crochet pattern
-Work following the chart and instructions.

Stitch pattern
- Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all rows.

Gauge
Square (rows 1-14 of chart) approx. 27 cm x 27 cm (11 in x 11 in); 20 tr and 10 rows = 10 cm / 4 in



Front square (see chart)

Chain 4 (ch) and close into a ring with 1 sl st into first ch.

Row 1: Ch3 (= 1st tr), work 15 trebles (tr) into the ring = 16 tr. Close round with 1 sl st into 3rd ch from beginning.

Row 2: ch3 (= 1st tr), 1 tr into base of chain, then 2 tr into each tr on previous row. Close round with 1 sl st.

Row 3: ch4 (= 1st tr + 1 ch st), then 1 tr + ch1 into each tr on previous row. Close round with 1 sl st.

Work rows 4-11 of the chart.

Rows 12-14: ch3 (= 1st tr), 1 tr into each tr on previous row and 2 tr + ch3 + 2 tr into each chain at the corners. Close round with 1 sl st. Break the yarn.

Top of the square

Join yarn with 1 dc into the right-hand corner on the RS.

Row 1: ch2 (1st tr), 1 tr into each tr and 2 tr into the chain at the left corner. Turn work.

Row 2: ch3 (1st tr), 1 tr into each tr. Turn work. Break the yarn.

Base and back piece

Join yarn with 1 dc into the bottom corner of the square on the RS.

Row 1: ch2 (1st tr), 1 tr into each tr and 2 tr into the chain at the left corner. Turn work.

Row 2: ch3 (1st tr), 1 tr into each tr. Turn work.

Row 3: ch3 (1st tr), 1 tr into the back loop of each tr on previous row. The piece is folded in between rows 2 and 3. Turn work.

Row 4: ch3 (1st tr), 1 tr into each tr. Turn work.

Repeat row 4 28 more times. Break the yarn.

Fold the backpack once with WS facing. Sew the side seams on the RS with back stitches.

Top

Join yarn with 1 dc into the RS on one of the side seams.

Row 1 (with holes): ch3 (1st tr + 1 ch st), *skip 1 st, 1 tr + ch1 into next st*, repeat *-* and close the round with 1 sl st.

Row 2: ch3 (1st tr), 1 tr into each tr and ch st. Close round with 1 sl st. Break the yarn.

Shoulder straps

Ch5, making sure to leave extra yarn for attaching the strap.

Row 1: 1 dc into 2nd ch from hook, 3 dc = 4 dc. Turn work.

Row 2: Ch1, 4 dc. Turn work.

Keep repeating row 2 until the shoulder strap measures approx. 33 cm. Break the yarn, leaving a long tail for attaching the strap.

Work the other shoulder strap in the same manner.

Finishing

Turn the backpack inside out (WS facing out). Sew 4 cm cross seams at the bottom corners.

Turn the RS out. Sew one end of each shoulder strap to the centre of the back piece, next to each other, 3 rows below the top edge.

Sew the other ends 3 rows above the bottom edge, 3 cm from the side seams.

Drawstring: Cast on 3 sts and knit them. *Do not turn work. Move sts to other end of needle and knit them.* Repeat *-*, working RS rows only without turning work. Continue until the string measures approx. 100 cm. Break yarn, pass it through the sts and tighten. Tie knots at the ends of the string and pass it through the row of holes at the top.


Skill levels

Beginner

Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

Technique

Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

Patterns

All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

Adventurous beginner

Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

Technique

Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

Patterns

Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

Intermediate

So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

Technique

In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

Patterns

Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

Advanced

Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

Technique

On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

Patterns

Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

Gauge & Swatching

Gauge and Swatching

Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

Adjusting gauge

If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

Size charts

Find size guides for your knitting projects

With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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