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Climber sweater Novita 7 Veljestä and 7 Veljestä Multiraita

As low as €1.90

Novita 7 Veljestä Multiraita is a multicolored striped yarn. When knitting you'll get a wonderfully irregular striped pattern, with colors starting and ending in a most fascinating way.
Magazine Novita Talvi 2019 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 17
Skill level Intermediate
Climber sweater Novita 7 Veljestä and 7 Veljestä Multiraita
Novita 7 Veljestä 100 g-588 cherry
€5.50
Novita 7 Veljestä 100 g-588 cherry
€5.50
Novita 7 Veljestä 100 g-588 cherry
€5.50
Novita 7 Veljestä 100 g-588 cherry
€5.50
Novita 7 Veljestä 100 g-588 cherry
€5.50
Novita 7 Veljestä 100 g-588 cherry
€5.50
Novita double-pointed needles 20 cm-3.5 mm
€3.30
Novita double-pointed needles 20 cm-4.0 mm
€3.30
Novita circular needles 80 cm-3.5 mm
€3.80
Novita circular needles 80 cm-4.0 mm
€3.80
Novita Finishing Needle 2 pcs
€1.90

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Climber sweater Novita 7 Veljestä and 7 Veljestä Multiraita
Climber sweater Novita 7 Veljestä and 7 Veljestä Multiraita

In stock

€1.90

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N041917
    Pattern details
    Size
    XS(S)M(L)XL(XXL)

    Yarn demand
    Novita 7 Veljestä Multiraita
    Designer 450(500)550(600)650(700) g and

    Novita 7 Veljestä
    Cherry 50(100)100(100)100(100) g

    Needles and other supplies
    Circular needles (80 cm / 32 in):
    Novita 3½ mm (UK 9½ / US 4) and
    Novita 4-4½ mm (UK 7-8 / US 6-7) or sizes needed

    Circular needles (40 cm / 16 in):
    Novita 3½ mm (UK 9½ / US 4) and
    Novita 4-4½ mm (UK 7-8 / US 6-7)

    Double-pointed needles:
    Novita 3½ mm (UK 9½ / US 4) and
    Novita 4-4½ mm (UK 7-8 / US 6-7)

    Designer
    Lea Petäjä

    Details

    Body

    Using the smaller 80 cm circular needle and the Cherry yarn cast on 176(188)200(216)232(244) sts and work ribbing in the round for 6 cm.

    Switch to the larger circular needle and the Designer yarn. Work stockinette st in the round until the piece measures 42(43)44(45)47(48) cm.

    Next round: work 86(92)96(102)108(112) back sts, bind off next 4(4)8(12)16(20) sts for an armhole, work 84(90)92(96)100(102) front sts, bind off last 2(2)4(6)8(10) sts + first 2(2)4(6)8(10) sts of next round for the other armhole. 84(90)92(96)100(102) sts each on the front and back pieces. Leave the sts on hold.

    Sleeves

    Using the smaller double-pointed needles and Cherry cast on 48(48)52(52)56(56) sts and work ribbing in the round for 6 cm.

    Switch to the larger double-pointed needles and the Designer yarn. Work stockinette st in the round.

    When the piece measures 13(8)9(12)14(10) cm, increase 1 st on both sides of the beginning of round: work 1 st, increase 1 st (= knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), work to last st, increase 1 st, work 1 st. Repeat the increases every 3(3)3(2,5)2,5(2,5) cm 11(13)13(15)14(16) more times = 72(76)80(84)86(90) sts.

    When the piece measures 49(50)51(52)52(53) cm, bind off the first and last 2(3)4(6)6(8) sts of the round. Leave the other 68(70)72(72)74(74) sts on hold.

    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.

    Yoke

    Place the 84(90)92(96)100(102) sts (back) + 68(70)72(72)74(74) sts (sleeve) + 84(90)92(96)100(102) sts (front) + 68(70)72(72)74(74) sts (sleeve) onto the larger circular needle = 304(320)328(336)348(352) sts. Place markers at the edges of the pieces.

    Work stockinette st in the round and begin raglan decreases: k2tog, work to last 2 sts before marker, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), k1, k2tog, work to last 3 sts before marker, skp, k1. K2tog, work to last 2 sts before marker, skp, k1, k2tog, work to last 3 sts before marker, skp, k1. 8 sts increased, 296(312)320(328)340(344) sts on the needles.

    Work the decreases as established on every other round 21(23)24(25)26(27) more times and finish on a decrease round. 128(128)128(128)132(128) sts now on the needles, 40(42)42(44)46(46) sts front and back, 24(22)22(20)20(18) sts both sleeves. Break yarn.

    Place the middle 24(26)26(28)30(30) front sts on hold for the neckline. Switch to working flat. Purl WS row.

    Work decreases on RS rows. Decrease 7x1 sts on every other row at both ends and at same time resume the front raglan decreases until you have decreased all sts. Work the back raglan decreases on every other row 3(7)3(3)4(3) times and 2(0)2(2)1(2) time(s) on every 4th row.

    Place the remaining sts and the front neckline sts onto the smaller circular needle (40 cm). Using Cherry, knit 1 round and pick up and knit additional sts from the neckline edge for 92(96)96(100)100(104) sts in total. Work ribbing in the round for 4 cm, then bind off in pattern.

    Finishing

    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.

    Sew the underarm seams.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    body circumference 96(104)112(120)128(136) cm / 37¾(41)44(47¼)50½(53½) in middle back length 64(66)68(70)72(74) cm / 25¼(26)26¾(27½)28¼(29¼) in inner sleeve length 49(50)51(52)52(53) cm / 19¼(19¾)20(20½)20½(20¾) in

    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns:
    - Ribbing in the round:
    *k2, p2*

    Body

    Using the smaller 80 cm circular needle and the Cherry yarn cast on 176(188)200(216)232(244) sts and work ribbing in the round for 6 cm.

    Switch to the larger circular needle and the Designer yarn. Work stockinette st in the round until the piece measures 42(43)44(45)47(48) cm.

    Next round: work 86(92)96(102)108(112) back sts, bind off next 4(4)8(12)16(20) sts for an armhole, work 84(90)92(96)100(102) front sts, bind off last 2(2)4(6)8(10) sts + first 2(2)4(6)8(10) sts of next round for the other armhole. 84(90)92(96)100(102) sts each on the front and back pieces. Leave the sts on hold.

    Sleeves

    Using the smaller double-pointed needles and Cherry cast on 48(48)52(52)56(56) sts and work ribbing in the round for 6 cm.

    Switch to the larger double-pointed needles and the Designer yarn. Work stockinette st in the round.

    When the piece measures 13(8)9(12)14(10) cm, increase 1 st on both sides of the beginning of round: work 1 st, increase 1 st (= knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), work to last st, increase 1 st, work 1 st. Repeat the increases every 3(3)3(2,5)2,5(2,5) cm 11(13)13(15)14(16) more times = 72(76)80(84)86(90) sts.

    When the piece measures 49(50)51(52)52(53) cm, bind off the first and last 2(3)4(6)6(8) sts of the round. Leave the other 68(70)72(72)74(74) sts on hold.

    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.

    Yoke

    Place the 84(90)92(96)100(102) sts (back) + 68(70)72(72)74(74) sts (sleeve) + 84(90)92(96)100(102) sts (front) + 68(70)72(72)74(74) sts (sleeve) onto the larger circular needle = 304(320)328(336)348(352) sts. Place markers at the edges of the pieces.

    Work stockinette st in the round and begin raglan decreases: k2tog, work to last 2 sts before marker, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), k1, k2tog, work to last 3 sts before marker, skp, k1. K2tog, work to last 2 sts before marker, skp, k1, k2tog, work to last 3 sts before marker, skp, k1. 8 sts increased, 296(312)320(328)340(344) sts on the needles.

    Work the decreases as established on every other round 21(23)24(25)26(27) more times and finish on a decrease round. 128(128)128(128)132(128) sts now on the needles, 40(42)42(44)46(46) sts front and back, 24(22)22(20)20(18) sts both sleeves. Break yarn.

    Place the middle 24(26)26(28)30(30) front sts on hold for the neckline. Switch to working flat. Purl WS row.

    Work decreases on RS rows. Decrease 7x1 sts on every other row at both ends and at same time resume the front raglan decreases until you have decreased all sts. Work the back raglan decreases on every other row 3(7)3(3)4(3) times and 2(0)2(2)1(2) time(s) on every 4th row.

    Place the remaining sts and the front neckline sts onto the smaller circular needle (40 cm). Using Cherry, knit 1 round and pick up and knit additional sts from the neckline edge for 92(96)96(100)100(104) sts in total. Work ribbing in the round for 4 cm, then bind off in pattern.

    Finishing

    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.

    Sew the underarm seams.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

    With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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