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Christmas socks Novita Venla and Baby Merino

Christmas socks Novita Venla and Baby Merino

As low as €1.90

Knitted from Novita Venla and Baby Merino yarns, these playful long socks feature presents, snowmen, reindeer and other Christmas motifs. Knitted from Novita Venla and Baby Merino.
Magazine Novita Talvi 2018 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 50
Skill level Expert
Christmas socks Novita Venla and Baby Merino
€4.90
€6.90
€6.90
Novita double ended pins 20 cm-2.5 mm
€3.30
Novita Finishing Needle 2 pcs
€1.90

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Christmas socks Novita Venla and Baby Merino
Christmas socks Novita Venla and Baby Merino

In stock

€1.90

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N041850
    Pattern details
    Size
    38/39 (EUR shoe size)

    Yarn demand
    Novita Venla
    (010) Off White less than 150 g,
    (543) Tomato 50 g and
    Novita Baby Merino
    (448) Pewter 50 g

    Needles and other supplies
    Double-pointed needles:
    Novita 2½ mm (UK 12–13 / US 1–2) or size needed to obtain gauge

    Designer
    Minna Metsänen

    Details

    Cast on 92 sts using the off-white yarn and divide them onto four needles, 23 sts each. The beginning of the round is between needles I and IV. Work 12 rounds of ribbing. Knit 1 round, increasing 1 st on needle IV = 93 sts.

    Begin the colourwork from row 1 of chart I and work the 93 st pattern. Then work rows 2–66 of chart I and rows 67–132 of chart II.

    1 st decreased at the beginning and end of rows 23, 34, 46, 58, 71, 81, 89, 96, 103, 111 and 121. 1 st decreased at the beginning of row 132. 70 sts on the needles after the decreases. Redistribute the sts: 18 sts each on needles I and IV, 17 sts each on needles II and III.

    After row 132, begin the heel flap: using the off-white yarn, knit the sts on needle I onto needle IV = 36 sts. Leave the other sts on hold and turn work. Purl to end of row and at the same time evenly decrease 2 sts = 34 sts.

    Begin the reinforced stitch pattern:

    Row 1: (RS) *Slip 1 with yarn in back, k1*, repeat *–* to end of row. Turn work.

    Row 2: (WS) Slip 1 with yarn in back, purl to end of row. Turn work.

    Repeat rows 1–2 a total of 16 times = 32 rows.

    Continue the reinforced st pattern as established and begin turning the heel: work the sts from the right end of the heel flap until 12 sts remain at the other end. Work the skp decrease (= slip 1 knitwise, knit 1, pass the slipped st over) and turn work. Slip 1, p10, p2tog, turn work. Slip 1, work until 11 sts remain, skp. Continue in the same manner, decreasing sts on the sides with 12 sts in the middle. When only the middle sts remain, distribute them onto two needles, 6 sts each. K6 to move the yarn between needles IV and I.

    Using needle I, pick up 16 sts from the left edge of the heel flap + 1 st from between the needles. Move the st you picked up from between the needles onto needle II. Using needle IV, pick up 16 sts from the other edge of the heel flap + 1 st from between the needles. 80 sts on the needles.

    Continue the colourwork from row 1 of chart III and knit the picked-up sts through the back loop. Work rows 1–13 of the chart. Work the gusset decreases following the chart at the end of needle I and beginning of needle IV. 68 sts on the needles after the decreases.

    Continue the colourwork from row 14 of chart III. Work rows 14–48.

    Use the off-white yarn for the rest of the sock. Begin the toe decreases: k2tog, k1 at the end of needles I and III, and k1, skp at the beginning of needles II and IV. Work the decreases as established on every 2nd round until 12 sts remain on each needle. Then work the decreases on every round.

    When 12 sts remain, break the yarn and pass it through the sts. Securely weave in the ends.

    Knit the other sock to match.

    Finishing

    Steam the socks lightly.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    Noin 65 x 45 cm

    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns:
    - Ribbing in the round:
    *k2, p2*, repeat *–*.
    - Stockinette stitch in the round:
    knit all rows.
    - Colourwork pattern:
    work stockinette st following the chart.

    Note:
    Twist the yarns around each other on the WS when needed to avoid long floats.

    Gauge:
    32 sts of colourwork = 10 cm / 4 in

    Cast on 92 sts using the off-white yarn and divide them onto four needles, 23 sts each. The beginning of the round is between needles I and IV. Work 12 rounds of ribbing. Knit 1 round, increasing 1 st on needle IV = 93 sts.

    Begin the colourwork from row 1 of chart I and work the 93 st pattern. Then work rows 2–66 of chart I and rows 67–132 of chart II.

    1 st decreased at the beginning and end of rows 23, 34, 46, 58, 71, 81, 89, 96, 103, 111 and 121. 1 st decreased at the beginning of row 132. 70 sts on the needles after the decreases. Redistribute the sts: 18 sts each on needles I and IV, 17 sts each on needles II and III.

    After row 132, begin the heel flap: using the off-white yarn, knit the sts on needle I onto needle IV = 36 sts. Leave the other sts on hold and turn work. Purl to end of row and at the same time evenly decrease 2 sts = 34 sts.

    Begin the reinforced stitch pattern:

    Row 1: (RS) *Slip 1 with yarn in back, k1*, repeat *–* to end of row. Turn work.

    Row 2: (WS) Slip 1 with yarn in back, purl to end of row. Turn work.

    Repeat rows 1–2 a total of 16 times = 32 rows.

    Continue the reinforced st pattern as established and begin turning the heel: work the sts from the right end of the heel flap until 12 sts remain at the other end. Work the skp decrease (= slip 1 knitwise, knit 1, pass the slipped st over) and turn work. Slip 1, p10, p2tog, turn work. Slip 1, work until 11 sts remain, skp. Continue in the same manner, decreasing sts on the sides with 12 sts in the middle. When only the middle sts remain, distribute them onto two needles, 6 sts each. K6 to move the yarn between needles IV and I.

    Using needle I, pick up 16 sts from the left edge of the heel flap + 1 st from between the needles. Move the st you picked up from between the needles onto needle II. Using needle IV, pick up 16 sts from the other edge of the heel flap + 1 st from between the needles. 80 sts on the needles.

    Continue the colourwork from row 1 of chart III and knit the picked-up sts through the back loop. Work rows 1–13 of the chart. Work the gusset decreases following the chart at the end of needle I and beginning of needle IV. 68 sts on the needles after the decreases.

    Continue the colourwork from row 14 of chart III. Work rows 14–48.

    Use the off-white yarn for the rest of the sock. Begin the toe decreases: k2tog, k1 at the end of needles I and III, and k1, skp at the beginning of needles II and IV. Work the decreases as established on every 2nd round until 12 sts remain on each needle. Then work the decreases on every round.

    When 12 sts remain, break the yarn and pass it through the sts. Securely weave in the ends.

    Knit the other sock to match.

    Finishing

    Steam the socks lightly.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Here you find size guides for your knitting projects!




     
     




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