Novita Muumitalo: Children’s Moomin sweater

As low as €6.96

The outline of the Moomin design is embroidered with duplicate stitches. Use short back stitches for the eyes.

Novita Kesä 2019 -lehti (in Finnish)
37
Intermediate
Customize Novita Muumitalo: Children’s Moomin sweater

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    €6.96

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    Availability: In stock

    N021937
    Size
    74(86)98(110)122 cm

    Yarn demand
    Novita Muumitalo (176) The Groke 100(150)150(200)200 g, (007) Moomintroll 100(100)100(150)150 g and some (229) Miffle for the pockets and (099) Stinky for embroidering

    Needles and other supplies
    Needles Novita 3½ mm (UK 9½ / US 4) and 4 mm (UK 8 / US 6) needles, or sizes needed for gauge; for the neckline edge a 40 cm (16 in) circular needle 3½ mm (UK 9½ / US 4)

    Designer
    Minttu Wikberg

    Back

    Using the smaller needles and The Groke, cast on 68(72)76(82)86 sts. Work ribbing for 3(3)4(4)4 cm, then knit 1 WS row.

    Switch to the larger needles and the Moomintroll yarn. Working in stockinette st, alternate 4 cm (11 rows) of Moomintroll and 4 cm (11 rows) of The Groke.

    When the piece measures 21(23)25(27)29 cm, on every other row bind off 1x2(2)3(3)3 sts and 3(3)4(4)4x1 st at both ends for the armholes = 58(62)62(68)72 sts.

    When the armhole measures 10(11)12(13)14 cm, on a RS row bind off the middle 30(30)30(32)32 sts for the neckline. Work one side at a time.

    When the armhole measures 11(12)13(14)15 cm, bind off the 14(16)16(18)20 shoulder sts.

    Work the other side in the same manner.

     

    Front

    Using the smaller needles and The Groke, cast on 68(72)76(82)86 sts. Work ribbing for 3(3)4(4)4 cm, then knit 1 WS row.

    Switch to the larger needles and the Moomintroll yarn. Working in stockinette st, alternate working 4 cm (11 rows) of Moomintroll and 4 cm (11 rows) of The Groke.

    Note: After the first stripe with Moomintroll, knit the bottom of the Moomin character in intarsia on the next Groke stripe. Follow the chart. The outline of the character is embroidered afterwards with the Stinky yarn using duplicate stitches. The left edge of the character is marked with an arrow on the chart. Place it approx. 4(4,5)5(5,5)6 cm from the left end of the piece.

    Knit the next Moomintroll stripe as established. On the next Groke stripe, resume the intarsia pattern following the chart. Then alternate the stripes as established for the rest of the piece.

    When the piece measures 21(23)25(27)29 cm, on every other row bind off 1x2(2)3(3)3 sts and 3(3)4(4)4x1 st at both ends for the armholes = 58(62)62(68)72 sts.

    When the armhole measures 5(6)6(7)8 cm, leave the middle 18(18)18(20)20 sts on hold for the neckline. Work one side at a time. On every other row bind off 2x2 sts and 2x1 st at the neckline edge.

    When the armhole measures 11(12)13(14)15 cm, bind off the 14(16)16(18)20 shoulder sts.

    Work the other side in the same manner.

     

    Sleeves

    Using the smaller needles and The Groke, cast on 37(39)39(41)41 sts. Work ribbing for approx. 3(3)4(4)4 cm, then knit the next WS row.

    Switch to the larger needles and the Moomintroll yarn. Working in stockinette st, alternate working 4 cm (11 rows) of Moomintroll and 4 cm (11 rows) of The Groke.

    When the piece measures 6(7)6(6)6 cm, increase 1 st at both ends. Repeat the increases every 4(3,5)3(2,5)2,5 cm 3(4)6(8)10 more times = 45(49)53(59)63 sts.

    When the piece measures 22(25)28(31)34 cm, on every other row bind off 1x2(2)3(3)3 sts and 3(3)4(4)4x1 st at both ends. Bind off the remaining sts.

    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.

     

    Finishing

    Pin to measurements, mist on the wrong side and allow to dry.

    Sew the shoulder seams.

    Neckline edge: Move the sts on hold onto the circular needle. Using The Groke, pick up and knit additional sts from the neckline edge for a total of 86(88)88(90)90 sts. Work 2 cm of ribbing in the round, then bind off in pattern.

    Use the Stinky yarn to embroider the outline of the Moomin character with duplicate stitches following the chart. Use a 2-ply yarn with the Stinky colour to embroider the eyes with short back stitches.

    Attach the sleeves. Sew the sleeve seams and side seams.

     

    Large pocket: Using the smaller needles and Miffle, cast on 22 sts and work 2 cm of ribbing. Switch to the larger needles and work stockinette st. When the pocket measures 6,5(6,5)8,5(8,5)8,5 cm, leave the sts on hold.

    Small pocket: Using the smaller needles and Miffle, cast on 14 sts and work 2 cm of ribbing. Switch to the larger needles and work stockinette st. When the pocket measures 5(5)6(6)6 cm, leave the sts on hold.

    Attach the large pocket on top of the Moomin character following the chart. Stitch the lower edge onto the sweater first, then sew the sides.

    Attach the smaller pocket 7(8)9(10)11 cm from the shoulder and 2,5(3)3(3,5)4 from the armhole. Stitch the lower edge onto the sweater first, then sew the sides.

    Lightly steam the pockets and the embroidery.

     

    Finished dimensions
    body circumference 60(64)68(72)76 cm / 23½(25¼)26¾(28¼)30 in length 32(35)38(41)44 cm / 12½(13¾)15(16¼)17¼ in inner sleeve length 22(25)28(31)34 cm / 8¾(9¾)11(12¼)13½ in

    Stitch patterns & gauge

    Stitch patterns Ribbing: *k1, p1*, repeat *–*. On the wrong side rows, knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts. Stockinette stitch: knit the right side rows and purl the wrong side rows. Ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*, repeat *–*. Moomin design in intarsia: All different-coloured fields are knitted with their own ball of yarn. Twist the different strands around each other on the WS to prevent holes at the colour changes.

    Gauge 22 sts and 28 rows of stockinette st with the larger needles = 10 cm / 4 in



    Back

    Using the smaller needles and The Groke, cast on 68(72)76(82)86 sts. Work ribbing for 3(3)4(4)4 cm, then knit 1 WS row.

    Switch to the larger needles and the Moomintroll yarn. Working in stockinette st, alternate 4 cm (11 rows) of Moomintroll and 4 cm (11 rows) of The Groke.

    When the piece measures 21(23)25(27)29 cm, on every other row bind off 1x2(2)3(3)3 sts and 3(3)4(4)4x1 st at both ends for the armholes = 58(62)62(68)72 sts.

    When the armhole measures 10(11)12(13)14 cm, on a RS row bind off the middle 30(30)30(32)32 sts for the neckline. Work one side at a time.

    When the armhole measures 11(12)13(14)15 cm, bind off the 14(16)16(18)20 shoulder sts.

    Work the other side in the same manner.

     

    Front

    Using the smaller needles and The Groke, cast on 68(72)76(82)86 sts. Work ribbing for 3(3)4(4)4 cm, then knit 1 WS row.

    Switch to the larger needles and the Moomintroll yarn. Working in stockinette st, alternate working 4 cm (11 rows) of Moomintroll and 4 cm (11 rows) of The Groke.

    Note: After the first stripe with Moomintroll, knit the bottom of the Moomin character in intarsia on the next Groke stripe. Follow the chart. The outline of the character is embroidered afterwards with the Stinky yarn using duplicate stitches. The left edge of the character is marked with an arrow on the chart. Place it approx. 4(4,5)5(5,5)6 cm from the left end of the piece.

    Knit the next Moomintroll stripe as established. On the next Groke stripe, resume the intarsia pattern following the chart. Then alternate the stripes as established for the rest of the piece.

    When the piece measures 21(23)25(27)29 cm, on every other row bind off 1x2(2)3(3)3 sts and 3(3)4(4)4x1 st at both ends for the armholes = 58(62)62(68)72 sts.

    When the armhole measures 5(6)6(7)8 cm, leave the middle 18(18)18(20)20 sts on hold for the neckline. Work one side at a time. On every other row bind off 2x2 sts and 2x1 st at the neckline edge.

    When the armhole measures 11(12)13(14)15 cm, bind off the 14(16)16(18)20 shoulder sts.

    Work the other side in the same manner.

     

    Sleeves

    Using the smaller needles and The Groke, cast on 37(39)39(41)41 sts. Work ribbing for approx. 3(3)4(4)4 cm, then knit the next WS row.

    Switch to the larger needles and the Moomintroll yarn. Working in stockinette st, alternate working 4 cm (11 rows) of Moomintroll and 4 cm (11 rows) of The Groke.

    When the piece measures 6(7)6(6)6 cm, increase 1 st at both ends. Repeat the increases every 4(3,5)3(2,5)2,5 cm 3(4)6(8)10 more times = 45(49)53(59)63 sts.

    When the piece measures 22(25)28(31)34 cm, on every other row bind off 1x2(2)3(3)3 sts and 3(3)4(4)4x1 st at both ends. Bind off the remaining sts.

    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.

     

    Finishing

    Pin to measurements, mist on the wrong side and allow to dry.

    Sew the shoulder seams.

    Neckline edge: Move the sts on hold onto the circular needle. Using The Groke, pick up and knit additional sts from the neckline edge for a total of 86(88)88(90)90 sts. Work 2 cm of ribbing in the round, then bind off in pattern.

    Use the Stinky yarn to embroider the outline of the Moomin character with duplicate stitches following the chart. Use a 2-ply yarn with the Stinky colour to embroider the eyes with short back stitches.

    Attach the sleeves. Sew the sleeve seams and side seams.

     

    Large pocket: Using the smaller needles and Miffle, cast on 22 sts and work 2 cm of ribbing. Switch to the larger needles and work stockinette st. When the pocket measures 6,5(6,5)8,5(8,5)8,5 cm, leave the sts on hold.

    Small pocket: Using the smaller needles and Miffle, cast on 14 sts and work 2 cm of ribbing. Switch to the larger needles and work stockinette st. When the pocket measures 5(5)6(6)6 cm, leave the sts on hold.

    Attach the large pocket on top of the Moomin character following the chart. Stitch the lower edge onto the sweater first, then sew the sides.

    Attach the smaller pocket 7(8)9(10)11 cm from the shoulder and 2,5(3)3(3,5)4 from the armhole. Stitch the lower edge onto the sweater first, then sew the sides.

    Lightly steam the pockets and the embroidery.

     


    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

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