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Children's cardigan Novita Wool Cotton

Children's cardigan Novita Wool Cotton

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Children's cardigan knitted with soft Novita Wool Cotton.
Magazine Novita Syksy 2017 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 45
Skill level Intermediate

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Children's cardigan Novita Wool Cotton
Children's cardigan Novita Wool Cotton

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€0.00

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N031745
    Pattern details
    Size
    98(110)122(134) cm

    Yarn demand
    Novita Wool Cotton
    (285) Saffron 250(300)350(400) g

    Needles and other supplies
    Circular needles (80 cm):
    Novita 4 mm or the size needed to obtain gauge.

    Other supplies:
    7 buttons

    Designer
    Mari Kangas

    Details

    The hem

    The fronts and the back are knitted flat in one piece up to the armholes.

    Cast on 144(152)160(168) sts and work garter st, do not join.

    When the piece measures 2,5(2,5)4(4) cm, make the first buttonhole to the right end of the right front (the front edge): k3, k2tog, make a yarn over and work to the end of row. Repeat the buttonhole every 5(5,5)5,5(6) cm for 6 more times.

    Note: When the piece measures 24(26)28(30) cm, divide the work into three sections: work through the 36(37)38(40) sts on the right front, bind off the next 4(6)8(8) sts for the armhole, work through the 64(66)68(72) sts on the back, bind off the next 4(6)8(8) sts for the armhole and work through the 36(37)38(40) sts on the left front.

    The upper part of the left front

    Leave the other sts on hold and continue working with the 36(37)38(40) left front sts. First work the WS row and then begin the raglan decreases on the right edge: k1, skp (=slip 1, knit 1 and pass the slipped st over) and work to the end of row. Work through the WS row until 2 sts remain, p1, k1. Continue in this manner i.e. purl the second to last st (= at the point where you've decreased on the previous row) on the WS rows.

    Repeat the decrease every 4th row for 2(3)5(5) more times and on every 2nd row 16(16)14(16) times.

    Note: when 20(20)22(23) sts remain on the front, put 8 sts from the right end of the piece on hold for the neckline e.g. on a piece of yarn. Continue the raglan decreases and on every 2nd row bind off on the neckline edge 1x3 sts, 2x2 sts and 0(0)1(1)x1 st. Bind off the remaining 2 sts.

    The right front

    Continue working with the 36(37)38(40) sts on the right front and make the rest of the buttonholes. First work a WS row and then begin the raglan decreases on the left end: work through the row until 3 sts remain, k2tog, k1. On the WS rows k1, p1 and knit the rest of the row. Keep purling the second stitch on the WS rows (= at the point where you've decreased on the previous row).

    Repeat the decrease every 4th row 2(3)5(5) times and then on every 2nd row 16(16)14(16) times.

    Note: when 20(20)22(22) sts remain on the front, put 8 sts from the left end of the piece on hold e.g. on a piece of yarn for the neckline. Continue the raglan decreases and on every 2nd row bind off on the neckline edge 1x3 sts, 2x2 sts and 0(0)1(1)x1 st. Bind off the remaining 2 sts.

    The back

    Continue working with the 64(66)68(72) sts for the back and work through the WS row. Now begin the raglan decreases on both ends of the piece: k1, skp and when 3 sts remain, k2tog, k1. On the WS row k1, p1 and when 2 sts remain p1, k1. Keep purling the second and second to last sts on the WS rows (these are the points where you have decreased on the previous row). Repeat the decreases every 4th row 2(3)5(5) more times and then on every 2nd row 18(18)16(18) times. Leave the remaining 22(22)24(24) sts on hold.

    Left sleeve

    Cast on 32(34)34(36) sts and work in garter st.

    When the piece measures 10(11)13(13) cm, increase 1 st on both ends. Repeat the increase every 2,5(2,5)2(2) cm 7(8)10(11) more times = 48(52)56(60) sts.

    When the piece measures 30(33)35(37) cm, bind off 1x2(3)4(4) sts on both ends. Begin the raglan decreases on both ends: k1, skp and when 3 sts remain k2tog and k1. On the WS row k1, p1 and when 2 sts remain p1, k1. Keep purling the second and second to last sts on the WS rows (=at the point where you've decreased on the previous row).

    Repeat the decreases on every 4th row 6(7)9(9) more times. Continue the decreases on the right end of the piece on every 2nd row 10(10)8(10) times and at the same time on the left end on every 2nd row 8(8)6(8) times.

    When you've completed the decreases on the left end of the piece, continue decreasing in the right end, and bind off on the left end on every 2nd row 2x4(4)5(5) sts. Bind off the remaining sts.

    Right sleeve

    Knit the right sleeve as the mirror image of the left one.

    Finishing

    Lay the pieces to measurements, wrong side up. Mist with a spray bottle and let dry.

    Sew the inner sleeve seams: place the sides next to each other so that there is no gap between them and the edges are not overlapping. Sew from the right side of the work, stitch by stitch using the overcast stitch.

    Sew the raglan seams.

    The neckband: Place the 8 sts on hold on the right front onto the needles, pick up 7(7)8(9) sts from the front neckline and 11(11)12(13) sts from the right sleeve edge. Place the 22(22)24(24) back sts back onto the needles and then pick up 11(11)12(13) sts from the left sleeve edge, 7(7)8(9) sts from the front neckline and finally place the 8(8)8(10) sts of the left front back onto the needle = 74(74)80(84) sts. Work 2 cm in garter stitch and bind off.

    Attach the buttons.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    Body circumference 68(72)76(80) cm Length in the back at midpoint 36(39)42(45) cm Inner sleeve length 26(29)31(33) cm + the folded cuff 4 cm

    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns:
    - Garter stitch:
    knit all rows.
    - Stockinette stitch:
    on the right side (RS) rows knit all sts. On the wrong side (WS) rows purl all sts.

    Gauge:
    20 sts and 40 rows in garter st = 10 cm

    The hem

    The fronts and the back are knitted flat in one piece up to the armholes.

    Cast on 144(152)160(168) sts and work garter st, do not join.

    When the piece measures 2,5(2,5)4(4) cm, make the first buttonhole to the right end of the right front (the front edge): k3, k2tog, make a yarn over and work to the end of row. Repeat the buttonhole every 5(5,5)5,5(6) cm for 6 more times.

    Note: When the piece measures 24(26)28(30) cm, divide the work into three sections: work through the 36(37)38(40) sts on the right front, bind off the next 4(6)8(8) sts for the armhole, work through the 64(66)68(72) sts on the back, bind off the next 4(6)8(8) sts for the armhole and work through the 36(37)38(40) sts on the left front.

    The upper part of the left front

    Leave the other sts on hold and continue working with the 36(37)38(40) left front sts. First work the WS row and then begin the raglan decreases on the right edge: k1, skp (=slip 1, knit 1 and pass the slipped st over) and work to the end of row. Work through the WS row until 2 sts remain, p1, k1. Continue in this manner i.e. purl the second to last st (= at the point where you've decreased on the previous row) on the WS rows.

    Repeat the decrease every 4th row for 2(3)5(5) more times and on every 2nd row 16(16)14(16) times.

    Note: when 20(20)22(23) sts remain on the front, put 8 sts from the right end of the piece on hold for the neckline e.g. on a piece of yarn. Continue the raglan decreases and on every 2nd row bind off on the neckline edge 1x3 sts, 2x2 sts and 0(0)1(1)x1 st. Bind off the remaining 2 sts.

    The right front

    Continue working with the 36(37)38(40) sts on the right front and make the rest of the buttonholes. First work a WS row and then begin the raglan decreases on the left end: work through the row until 3 sts remain, k2tog, k1. On the WS rows k1, p1 and knit the rest of the row. Keep purling the second stitch on the WS rows (= at the point where you've decreased on the previous row).

    Repeat the decrease every 4th row 2(3)5(5) times and then on every 2nd row 16(16)14(16) times.

    Note: when 20(20)22(22) sts remain on the front, put 8 sts from the left end of the piece on hold e.g. on a piece of yarn for the neckline. Continue the raglan decreases and on every 2nd row bind off on the neckline edge 1x3 sts, 2x2 sts and 0(0)1(1)x1 st. Bind off the remaining 2 sts.

    The back

    Continue working with the 64(66)68(72) sts for the back and work through the WS row. Now begin the raglan decreases on both ends of the piece: k1, skp and when 3 sts remain, k2tog, k1. On the WS row k1, p1 and when 2 sts remain p1, k1. Keep purling the second and second to last sts on the WS rows (these are the points where you have decreased on the previous row). Repeat the decreases every 4th row 2(3)5(5) more times and then on every 2nd row 18(18)16(18) times. Leave the remaining 22(22)24(24) sts on hold.

    Left sleeve

    Cast on 32(34)34(36) sts and work in garter st.

    When the piece measures 10(11)13(13) cm, increase 1 st on both ends. Repeat the increase every 2,5(2,5)2(2) cm 7(8)10(11) more times = 48(52)56(60) sts.

    When the piece measures 30(33)35(37) cm, bind off 1x2(3)4(4) sts on both ends. Begin the raglan decreases on both ends: k1, skp and when 3 sts remain k2tog and k1. On the WS row k1, p1 and when 2 sts remain p1, k1. Keep purling the second and second to last sts on the WS rows (=at the point where you've decreased on the previous row).

    Repeat the decreases on every 4th row 6(7)9(9) more times. Continue the decreases on the right end of the piece on every 2nd row 10(10)8(10) times and at the same time on the left end on every 2nd row 8(8)6(8) times.

    When you've completed the decreases on the left end of the piece, continue decreasing in the right end, and bind off on the left end on every 2nd row 2x4(4)5(5) sts. Bind off the remaining sts.

    Right sleeve

    Knit the right sleeve as the mirror image of the left one.

    Finishing

    Lay the pieces to measurements, wrong side up. Mist with a spray bottle and let dry.

    Sew the inner sleeve seams: place the sides next to each other so that there is no gap between them and the edges are not overlapping. Sew from the right side of the work, stitch by stitch using the overcast stitch.

    Sew the raglan seams.

    The neckband: Place the 8 sts on hold on the right front onto the needles, pick up 7(7)8(9) sts from the front neckline and 11(11)12(13) sts from the right sleeve edge. Place the 22(22)24(24) back sts back onto the needles and then pick up 11(11)12(13) sts from the left sleeve edge, 7(7)8(9) sts from the front neckline and finally place the 8(8)8(10) sts of the left front back onto the needle = 74(74)80(84) sts. Work 2 cm in garter stitch and bind off.

    Attach the buttons.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

    With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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