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Children's cardigan Novita 7 Veljestä and Nalle Pelto

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The cardigan is knitted seamlessly except for the short underarm seams.
Magazine Novita Kevät 2018 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 41
Skill level Intermediate
- +

 

Availability:In stock
SKU N011841
Pattern details
Size
98(110)122(134) cm

Yarn demand
Novita 7 Veljestä
(014) Ice or (053) Berry porridge 250(250)300(350) g
and
Novita Nalle Pelto
(816) Dew or (801) Clover 50 g

Needles and other supplies
Circular needle (80 cm) :
Novita 3½ mm and 4 mm or the size needed
Double-pointed needles:
Novita 3½ mm and 4 mm for the sleeves
A crochet hook :
Novita 3 mm for the bobbles

Other supplies:
7 buttons (www.napiton.fi)

Designer
Lea Petäjä

Details

Front and back hem

The piece is knitted in one piece until the armholes. Using the 7 Veljestä yarn and the smaller needles cast on 129(137)145(151) sts. At both ends work 5 sts in seed st. Work the sts in between in ribbing.

When the piece measures 1,5 cm, work the first buttonhole on the front edge of the right front: on an RS row k2, k2tog or p2tog in pattern, yo, work to end of row. Repeat the buttonhole every 5,5(6)6,5(7) cm 5 more times. The 7th and last buttonhole will be on the neckline edge.

When the piece measures 3 cm, switch to the larger needles. Keep working the edges in seed st. Work the middle sts in stockinette st.

When the piece measures 24(26)28(30) cm, distribute the sts into three groups: work the 31(33)34(35) sts on the right front, bind off the next 6(6)8(8) sts for the armhole, work the 55(59)61(65) sts on the back, bind off the next 6(6)8(8) sts for the other armhole, work the 31(33)34(35) sts on the left front. Do not break the yarn. Leave the sts on hold for the yoke.

Sleeves

The sleeves are knitted in the round. Using the smaller double-pointed needles, cast on 30(32)32(34) sts and distribute them onto four needles. Work ribbing in the round for 4 cm.

Switch to the larger double-pointed needles and work stockinette st in round. On the first round, increase 1 st = 31(33)33(35) sts.

When the piece measures 5(5)6(6) cm, increase 1 st on both sides of the beginning of round: k1, make 1 (=knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), and when 1 st remains, m1, k1. Repeat the increases every 4(4)3(3) cm 5(6)7(8) more times = 43(47)49(53) sts.

When the piece measures 28(31)33(35) cm, work the next round until 2(2)3(3) sts remain. Bind off the 2(2)3(3) sts and another 2(2)3(3) sts from the beginning of the next round. Break the yarn and leave the other 39(43)43(47) sts on hold for the yoke.

Work the other sleeve to match.

Yoke

Move the sts on hold onto the larger circular needle: 31(33)34(35) sts on the right front, 39(43)43(47) sleeve sts, 55(59)61(65) sts on the back, 39(43)43(47) sts on the other sleeve, and 31(33)34(35) sts on the left front = 195(211)215(229) sts. Mark the edges of the sections with a different-coloured yarn.

On the next WS round work both ends in seed st and purl the other sts. On the back piece evenly decrease 0(0)2(2) sts. 195(211)213(227) sts on the needle, 55(59)59(63) sts on the back piece.

Begin working the bobbles and raglan decreases from row 1 of the chart: on the RS round work 5 sts on the right front in seed st, k2(0)1(2), work 1 st from the right edge of the chart, work the 4 st pattern repeat 5(6)6(6) times, k1, skp (=sl 1, k1, psso). Note: Between the bobbles, carry the Nalle yarn on the WS and at the end of row break the yarn.

Sleeve: k2tog, k1, work 1 st from right end of chart, work 4 st pattern repeat 8(9)9(10) times, k1, skp.

Back: k2tog, k1, work 1 st from right end of chart, work the 4 st pattern repeat 12(13)13(14) times, k1, skp.

Second sleeve: k2tog, k1, work 1 st from right end of chart, work 4 st pattern repeat 8(9)9(10) times, k1, skp.

Left front: k2tog, k1, work 1 st from right end of chart, work the 4 st pattern repeat 5(6)6(6) times, k2(0)1(2), work 5 sts in seed st.

8 sts decreased, 187(203)205(219) sts on the needles.

Work rows 2-8 of the chart and then keep repeating rows 1-8. Repeat the raglan decreases on the edges of the sections on every 2nd round 15(16)17(18) more times.

Note: When you have worked the raglan decreases 13(14)15(16) times in total and there are 91(99)93(99) sts on the needles, leave 11(11)12(12) sts at both ends on hold for the neckline. At both ends bind off 1x2 sts and 1x1 st on every 2nd round.

When you have finished the raglan decreases, switch to the smaller circular needle. Pick up the sts on hold at the front edge and pick up and knit additional sts from the bind-off edge. Work the 5 sts on the front edges in seed st and the other sts in ribbing.

When you worked 0,5 cm in ribbing, work the last buttonhole on the right front edge. When the ribbing measures 2 cm, bind off in pattern.

Finishing

Steam the cardigan lightly.

Sew the seams under the armholes. Attach the buttons.

Knitted ruffle: Using the larger circular needle, cast on 171(183)186(198) sts. Purl all sts on the WS round.

1st increase round: (RS) *k3, m1 (=knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop)*, repeat *-* 55(59)60(64) more times, k3. 56(60)61(65) sts increased, 227(243)247(263) sts on the needle. Purl the WS round.

2nd increase round: *k4, m1*, repeat *-* 55(59)60(64) more times, k3 = 283(303)308(328) sts. Purl the WS round.

3rd increase round: *k5, m1*, repeat *-* 55(59)60(64) more times, k3 = 339(363)369(393) sts. Purl the WS round.

4th increase round: *k6, m1*, repeat *-* 55(59)60(64) more times, k3 = 395(423)430(458) sts. Purl the WS round.

Bind off on the RS round using knit sts.

Sew the ruffle under the bobble section (not on the button band).

Pattern instructions
Finished dimensions
body circumference 68(72)76(80) cm
length in the back at midpoint 36(39)42(45) cm
inner sleeve length 28(31)33(35) cm

Stitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns :
- Ribbing:
*k1, p1*, repeat *-*. On the wrong side rows knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts.
- Seed stitch:
*k1, p1*, repeat *-*. On the wrong side rows purl the knit sts and knit the purl sts.
- Stockinette stitch:
Right side rows: knit all sts. Wrong side rows: purl all sts.
- Ribbing in the round:
*k1, p1*, repeat *-*.
- Stockinette stitch in the round:
knit all rows.
- Bobbles:
work following the chart and the written instructions.

Gauge:
18 sts and 26 rows in stockinette st using the 7 Veljestä yarn and the larger needles.

Note:
The cardigan is knitted seamlessly except for the short underarm seams.

Front and back hem

The piece is knitted in one piece until the armholes. Using the 7 Veljestä yarn and the smaller needles cast on 129(137)145(151) sts. At both ends work 5 sts in seed st. Work the sts in between in ribbing.

When the piece measures 1,5 cm, work the first buttonhole on the front edge of the right front: on an RS row k2, k2tog or p2tog in pattern, yo, work to end of row. Repeat the buttonhole every 5,5(6)6,5(7) cm 5 more times. The 7th and last buttonhole will be on the neckline edge.

When the piece measures 3 cm, switch to the larger needles. Keep working the edges in seed st. Work the middle sts in stockinette st.

When the piece measures 24(26)28(30) cm, distribute the sts into three groups: work the 31(33)34(35) sts on the right front, bind off the next 6(6)8(8) sts for the armhole, work the 55(59)61(65) sts on the back, bind off the next 6(6)8(8) sts for the other armhole, work the 31(33)34(35) sts on the left front. Do not break the yarn. Leave the sts on hold for the yoke.

Sleeves

The sleeves are knitted in the round. Using the smaller double-pointed needles, cast on 30(32)32(34) sts and distribute them onto four needles. Work ribbing in the round for 4 cm.

Switch to the larger double-pointed needles and work stockinette st in round. On the first round, increase 1 st = 31(33)33(35) sts.

When the piece measures 5(5)6(6) cm, increase 1 st on both sides of the beginning of round: k1, make 1 (=knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), and when 1 st remains, m1, k1. Repeat the increases every 4(4)3(3) cm 5(6)7(8) more times = 43(47)49(53) sts.

When the piece measures 28(31)33(35) cm, work the next round until 2(2)3(3) sts remain. Bind off the 2(2)3(3) sts and another 2(2)3(3) sts from the beginning of the next round. Break the yarn and leave the other 39(43)43(47) sts on hold for the yoke.

Work the other sleeve to match.

Yoke

Move the sts on hold onto the larger circular needle: 31(33)34(35) sts on the right front, 39(43)43(47) sleeve sts, 55(59)61(65) sts on the back, 39(43)43(47) sts on the other sleeve, and 31(33)34(35) sts on the left front = 195(211)215(229) sts. Mark the edges of the sections with a different-coloured yarn.

On the next WS round work both ends in seed st and purl the other sts. On the back piece evenly decrease 0(0)2(2) sts. 195(211)213(227) sts on the needle, 55(59)59(63) sts on the back piece.

Begin working the bobbles and raglan decreases from row 1 of the chart: on the RS round work 5 sts on the right front in seed st, k2(0)1(2), work 1 st from the right edge of the chart, work the 4 st pattern repeat 5(6)6(6) times, k1, skp (=sl 1, k1, psso). Note: Between the bobbles, carry the Nalle yarn on the WS and at the end of row break the yarn.

Sleeve: k2tog, k1, work 1 st from right end of chart, work 4 st pattern repeat 8(9)9(10) times, k1, skp.

Back: k2tog, k1, work 1 st from right end of chart, work the 4 st pattern repeat 12(13)13(14) times, k1, skp.

Second sleeve: k2tog, k1, work 1 st from right end of chart, work 4 st pattern repeat 8(9)9(10) times, k1, skp.

Left front: k2tog, k1, work 1 st from right end of chart, work the 4 st pattern repeat 5(6)6(6) times, k2(0)1(2), work 5 sts in seed st.

8 sts decreased, 187(203)205(219) sts on the needles.

Work rows 2-8 of the chart and then keep repeating rows 1-8. Repeat the raglan decreases on the edges of the sections on every 2nd round 15(16)17(18) more times.

Note: When you have worked the raglan decreases 13(14)15(16) times in total and there are 91(99)93(99) sts on the needles, leave 11(11)12(12) sts at both ends on hold for the neckline. At both ends bind off 1x2 sts and 1x1 st on every 2nd round.

When you have finished the raglan decreases, switch to the smaller circular needle. Pick up the sts on hold at the front edge and pick up and knit additional sts from the bind-off edge. Work the 5 sts on the front edges in seed st and the other sts in ribbing.

When you worked 0,5 cm in ribbing, work the last buttonhole on the right front edge. When the ribbing measures 2 cm, bind off in pattern.

Finishing

Steam the cardigan lightly.

Sew the seams under the armholes. Attach the buttons.

Knitted ruffle: Using the larger circular needle, cast on 171(183)186(198) sts. Purl all sts on the WS round.

1st increase round: (RS) *k3, m1 (=knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop)*, repeat *-* 55(59)60(64) more times, k3. 56(60)61(65) sts increased, 227(243)247(263) sts on the needle. Purl the WS round.

2nd increase round: *k4, m1*, repeat *-* 55(59)60(64) more times, k3 = 283(303)308(328) sts. Purl the WS round.

3rd increase round: *k5, m1*, repeat *-* 55(59)60(64) more times, k3 = 339(363)369(393) sts. Purl the WS round.

4th increase round: *k6, m1*, repeat *-* 55(59)60(64) more times, k3 = 395(423)430(458) sts. Purl the WS round.

Bind off on the RS round using knit sts.

Sew the ruffle under the bobble section (not on the button band).


Skill levels

Beginner

Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

Technique

Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

Patterns

All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

Adventurous beginner

Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

Technique

Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

Patterns

Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

Intermediate

So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

Technique

In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

Patterns

Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

Advanced

Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

Technique

On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

Patterns

Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

Gauge & Swatching

Gauge and Swatching

Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

Adjusting gauge

If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

Size charts

Find size guides for your knitting projects

With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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