Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
As low as €6.96
Availability: In stock
Garter st in round:
*Rnd1: knit all sts.
Rnd2: purl all sts,rep from*
Stocking stitch in round: knit all rows.
Fair isle pattern in round: See chart.
Stocking stitch: knit on RS, purl on WS.
Fair isle pattern: See chart.
21,5 sts and 31 rows to 10 cm measured over stocking st
Skirt is worked in round until the armholes. Using grey yarn cast on 192[198:204:210] sts. Beg and ending rnds as indicated, cont in patt from chart I. as folls:
Rnd 1: repeat 6 st patt 32(33)34(35) times. Work rnds 1-13. Change to off-white yarn. Cont in stocking st in round and increase evenly 18[22:24:26] sts during the first rnd. Use M1 method to increase sts =M1 (RS): make one stitch by picking up horizontal loop before next stitch and knitting into back of it. =210[220:228:236] sts.
Work until skirt meas 17[18:19:20] cm.
Next row: Decrease evenly 21[22:23:24] sts. Repeat decreases in 4 cm intervals 2 times = 147[154:159:164] sts. Decrease 1[0:1:0] st during the next rnd = 146[154:158:164] sts.
Work until skirt meas 28[30:32:34] cm. Beg and ending rnds as indicated, cont in patt from chart I. as folls:
Rnd 14: repeat 2 st patt all rnd. Rep rnd 14 6 times. Change to grey yarn. Knit 1 rnd. Purl 1 rnd and AT THE SAME TIME decrease evenly 38[40:38:38] sts = 108[114:120:126] sts. Beg and ending rnds as indicated, cont in patt from chart I. as folls:
Rnd 6: repeat 6 st patt 18[19:20:21] times. Work rnds 6-9. Change to off-white yarn. Divide the skirt into two sections for front and back as folls: cast off 6[8:9:10] sts for armhole, knit 48[49:51:53] sts for front, cast off 6[8:9:10] sts for armhole, knit 48[49:51:53] sts for back. Leave front 48[49:51:53] sts on a holder.
Back bodice is worked flat. Work 48[49:51:53] sts in stocking st. Work until back bodice meas 1,5[2,5:3,5:4,5] cm. Make increases as folls:
(RS): K1, M1,work until you have 1 st left on your left hand needle, M1, K1. Rep decreases every 4th row twice and every alt row 5 times =64[65:67:69] sts.
Cast off 3sts at beg of next 12 rows[3sts at beg of next 12 rows:3sts at beg of next 10 rows,4sts at beg of next 2 rows:3sts at beg of next 8 rows,4sts at beg of next 4 rows]. Work until back bodice meas 11[12:13:14] cm.
Cast off 24[25:25:25] sts in the middle of back for neck. Leave right side sts on a holder. Work each side of neck separately. Work 2 rows. Dec 2sts at neck edge. Work until back bodice meas 13[14:15:16] cm. Cast off rem sts. Rejoin yarn to sts on holder and patt to end. Complete to match first side, reversing shapings.
Work as for back bodice. Start front neck shaping when front bodice meas 7[8:9:10]cm.
Put 20[21:21:21] sts on a holder in the middle of front for neck. Leave right side sts on a holder. Work each side of neck separately. Cast off 2 sts at neck edge every alt row. Dec 1 st at neck edge every alt row twice. Work until front bodice meas 13[14:15:16] cm. Cast off rem sts. Rejoin yarn to sts on holder and patt to end. Complete to match first side, reversing shapings.
Flatten the dress to the desired dimensions on an even surface, wrong side up. Wet with water spray, and allow to dry. Join both shoulder seams.
RS: Using double pointed needles and off-white yarn pick up and knit 44[48:52:56] sts from armhole. Work in round. Purl 1 rnd. Cont in stocking st in round 4cm. Cast off sts. Fold the edge in half and sew it into WS.
RS: Using double pointed needles rejoin off-white yarn to 20[21:21:21] sts on a holder, pick up and knit 50[51:53:55]sts = 70[72:74:76] sts. Work in round. Purl 1 rnd. Cont in stocking st in round 4cm. Cast off sts. Fold the edge in half and sew it into WS.
Pocket #1: Using off-white yarn cast on 24sts.
WS: Knit. Beg and ending rows as indicated, cont in patt from chart I. as folls:
Row 14: repeat 2 st patt all row. Rep rnd 14 6 times. Change to wine red yarn. Cont in stocking st. Work until pocket meas 10cm. Cast off sts. Fair isle patt is on the top of the pocket.
Pocket #2: Using off-white yarn cast on 24sts.
WS: Purl. Beg and ending rows as indicated, cont in patt from chart II. as folls:
Row 1: work 24st patt. Rep rows 1-4. Work until pocket meas 9cm. Change to grey yarn. Work 4 rows in garter st. Cast off sts. Grey edge is on the top of the pocket.
Sew on pockets to the skirt as folls: 10[11:12:13] cm from hem and 13[14:16:17] cm gap between them.
Garter st in round:
*Rnd1: knit all sts.
Rnd2: purl all sts,rep from*
Stocking stitch in round: knit all rows.
Fair isle pattern in round: See chart.
Stocking stitch: knit on RS, purl on WS.
Fair isle pattern: See chart.
21,5 sts and 31 rows to 10 cm measured over stocking st
Skirt is worked in round until the armholes. Using grey yarn cast on 192[198:204:210] sts. Beg and ending rnds as indicated, cont in patt from chart I. as folls:
Rnd 1: repeat 6 st patt 32(33)34(35) times. Work rnds 1-13. Change to off-white yarn. Cont in stocking st in round and increase evenly 18[22:24:26] sts during the first rnd. Use M1 method to increase sts =M1 (RS): make one stitch by picking up horizontal loop before next stitch and knitting into back of it. =210[220:228:236] sts.
Work until skirt meas 17[18:19:20] cm.
Next row: Decrease evenly 21[22:23:24] sts. Repeat decreases in 4 cm intervals 2 times = 147[154:159:164] sts. Decrease 1[0:1:0] st during the next rnd = 146[154:158:164] sts.
Work until skirt meas 28[30:32:34] cm. Beg and ending rnds as indicated, cont in patt from chart I. as folls:
Rnd 14: repeat 2 st patt all rnd. Rep rnd 14 6 times. Change to grey yarn. Knit 1 rnd. Purl 1 rnd and AT THE SAME TIME decrease evenly 38[40:38:38] sts = 108[114:120:126] sts. Beg and ending rnds as indicated, cont in patt from chart I. as folls:
Rnd 6: repeat 6 st patt 18[19:20:21] times. Work rnds 6-9. Change to off-white yarn. Divide the skirt into two sections for front and back as folls: cast off 6[8:9:10] sts for armhole, knit 48[49:51:53] sts for front, cast off 6[8:9:10] sts for armhole, knit 48[49:51:53] sts for back. Leave front 48[49:51:53] sts on a holder.
Back bodice is worked flat. Work 48[49:51:53] sts in stocking st. Work until back bodice meas 1,5[2,5:3,5:4,5] cm. Make increases as folls:
(RS): K1, M1,work until you have 1 st left on your left hand needle, M1, K1. Rep decreases every 4th row twice and every alt row 5 times =64[65:67:69] sts.
Cast off 3sts at beg of next 12 rows[3sts at beg of next 12 rows:3sts at beg of next 10 rows,4sts at beg of next 2 rows:3sts at beg of next 8 rows,4sts at beg of next 4 rows]. Work until back bodice meas 11[12:13:14] cm.
Cast off 24[25:25:25] sts in the middle of back for neck. Leave right side sts on a holder. Work each side of neck separately. Work 2 rows. Dec 2sts at neck edge. Work until back bodice meas 13[14:15:16] cm. Cast off rem sts. Rejoin yarn to sts on holder and patt to end. Complete to match first side, reversing shapings.
Work as for back bodice. Start front neck shaping when front bodice meas 7[8:9:10]cm.
Put 20[21:21:21] sts on a holder in the middle of front for neck. Leave right side sts on a holder. Work each side of neck separately. Cast off 2 sts at neck edge every alt row. Dec 1 st at neck edge every alt row twice. Work until front bodice meas 13[14:15:16] cm. Cast off rem sts. Rejoin yarn to sts on holder and patt to end. Complete to match first side, reversing shapings.
Flatten the dress to the desired dimensions on an even surface, wrong side up. Wet with water spray, and allow to dry. Join both shoulder seams.
RS: Using double pointed needles and off-white yarn pick up and knit 44[48:52:56] sts from armhole. Work in round. Purl 1 rnd. Cont in stocking st in round 4cm. Cast off sts. Fold the edge in half and sew it into WS.
RS: Using double pointed needles rejoin off-white yarn to 20[21:21:21] sts on a holder, pick up and knit 50[51:53:55]sts = 70[72:74:76] sts. Work in round. Purl 1 rnd. Cont in stocking st in round 4cm. Cast off sts. Fold the edge in half and sew it into WS.
Pocket #1: Using off-white yarn cast on 24sts.
WS: Knit. Beg and ending rows as indicated, cont in patt from chart I. as folls:
Row 14: repeat 2 st patt all row. Rep rnd 14 6 times. Change to wine red yarn. Cont in stocking st. Work until pocket meas 10cm. Cast off sts. Fair isle patt is on the top of the pocket.
Pocket #2: Using off-white yarn cast on 24sts.
WS: Purl. Beg and ending rows as indicated, cont in patt from chart II. as folls:
Row 1: work 24st patt. Rep rows 1-4. Work until pocket meas 9cm. Change to grey yarn. Work 4 rows in garter st. Cast off sts. Grey edge is on the top of the pocket.
Sew on pockets to the skirt as folls: 10[11:12:13] cm from hem and 13[14:16:17] cm gap between them.
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.