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Cabled Mittens Novita Alpaca Wool

Cabled Mittens Novita Alpaca Wool

As low as €0.00

These cabled mittens are super warm, thanks to Novita Alpaca Wool yarn.
Magazine Novita Kevät 2017 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 28
Skill level Intermediate
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Availability:In stock
SKU N011728
Pattern details
Size
One size

Yarn demand
Novita Alpaca Wool
Straw 100 g

Needles and other supplies
Needles
Set of 5 double pointed needles Novita 4 mm
or the size required to give you the correct tension

Designer
Saara Toikka

Details

Left mitten

Cast on 54 sts and divide them onto four double pointed needles (dpns): 11 sts onto the first needle, 11 sts onto the second needle, 16 sts onto the third needle and 16 sts onto the fourth needle. The beginning of the round is between the fourth and first needle. Join to work in the round and work 3 cm in rib.

Start following the cable chart from row 1: K22 (first and second needle), work the 32 st pattern repeat once (third and fourth needle). Keeping the overall pattern correct, work rows 2–12 of the chart.

When the work measures 7 cm, start increasing for the thumb gusset:

Next round: K to last 4 sts on the second needle, PM, M1R, k2, M1L, PM, k2, work to end keeping the pattern correct.

Repeat these gusset increases on every third round for 5 more times. The sts count between the markers will increase by 2 on every increase round. After completing the gusset increases, work 1 round in pattern.

Next round: Work to the first M, remove M, slip 14 sts onto waste yarn, remove the second M, cast on 2 sts and work to end.

Keeping the pattern correct, work until you have repeated the chart rows 1–12 for four times. After that, work rows 1–10 (the work measures now about 20 cm).

Next round (row 11 of the chart): Keeping the pattern correct, work to the first st on the third needle, k2tog, work to the last 2 sts on the fourth needle, skp = 52 sts.

Keeping the overall pattern correct work rows 13–14 of the chart. You have now 11 sts on each needle.

Next, working in st st start decreasing for the mitten top:

Decrease round: First needle: k1, skp, k to end; second needle: k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; third needle: k1, skp, k to end; fourth needle: k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.

Repeat these decreases on every following round until you have 8 sts left. Cut yarn, thread through the stitches and pull tight. Weave in ends.

Thumb

Pick up the sts on hold onto three needles and pick up and knit 2 sts along the gap between thumb and index finger = 16 sts. Join to work in the round. Work in st st until the thumb measures 5 cm or until your thumb nail is covered up to halfway. Start decreasing for the thumb top:

Next round: On each needle, work to last 2 sts, k2tog.

Repeat these decreases on every following round until you have 4 sts left.

Next round: K1, pass the other sts over the knit stitch from left to right.

Cut yarn, pull tight and weave in ends.

Right mitten

Work as right mitten reversing the position of the thumb. The thumb hole will be worked in the beginning of the third needle.

Finishing

Steam block the mittens gently.

Pattern instructions
Finished dimensions
Palan leveys noin 53 cm.

Stitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns
Rib stitch in the round
All rounds: *K1, p1*, repeat *-* to end.

Stocking stitch in the round
All rounds: K to end.

Cable stitch pattern in the round
Follow the chart and written instructions.

Tension
19 sts over stocking stitch = 10 cm; 1 pattern repeat over cable stitch pattern = ca. 8 cm

Left mitten

Cast on 54 sts and divide them onto four double pointed needles (dpns): 11 sts onto the first needle, 11 sts onto the second needle, 16 sts onto the third needle and 16 sts onto the fourth needle. The beginning of the round is between the fourth and first needle. Join to work in the round and work 3 cm in rib.

Start following the cable chart from row 1: K22 (first and second needle), work the 32 st pattern repeat once (third and fourth needle). Keeping the overall pattern correct, work rows 2–12 of the chart.

When the work measures 7 cm, start increasing for the thumb gusset:

Next round: K to last 4 sts on the second needle, PM, M1R, k2, M1L, PM, k2, work to end keeping the pattern correct.

Repeat these gusset increases on every third round for 5 more times. The sts count between the markers will increase by 2 on every increase round. After completing the gusset increases, work 1 round in pattern.

Next round: Work to the first M, remove M, slip 14 sts onto waste yarn, remove the second M, cast on 2 sts and work to end.

Keeping the pattern correct, work until you have repeated the chart rows 1–12 for four times. After that, work rows 1–10 (the work measures now about 20 cm).

Next round (row 11 of the chart): Keeping the pattern correct, work to the first st on the third needle, k2tog, work to the last 2 sts on the fourth needle, skp = 52 sts.

Keeping the overall pattern correct work rows 13–14 of the chart. You have now 11 sts on each needle.

Next, working in st st start decreasing for the mitten top:

Decrease round: First needle: k1, skp, k to end; second needle: k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; third needle: k1, skp, k to end; fourth needle: k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.

Repeat these decreases on every following round until you have 8 sts left. Cut yarn, thread through the stitches and pull tight. Weave in ends.

Thumb

Pick up the sts on hold onto three needles and pick up and knit 2 sts along the gap between thumb and index finger = 16 sts. Join to work in the round. Work in st st until the thumb measures 5 cm or until your thumb nail is covered up to halfway. Start decreasing for the thumb top:

Next round: On each needle, work to last 2 sts, k2tog.

Repeat these decreases on every following round until you have 4 sts left.

Next round: K1, pass the other sts over the knit stitch from left to right.

Cut yarn, pull tight and weave in ends.

Right mitten

Work as right mitten reversing the position of the thumb. The thumb hole will be worked in the beginning of the third needle.

Finishing

Steam block the mittens gently.


Skill levels

Beginner

Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

Technique

Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

Patterns

All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

Adventurous beginner

Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

Technique

Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

Patterns

Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

Intermediate

So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

Technique

In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

Patterns

Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

Advanced

Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

Technique

On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

Patterns

Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

Gauge & Swatching

Gauge and Swatching

Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

Adjusting gauge

If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

Size charts

Here you find size guides for your knitting projects!




 
 




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